As I Said...

Fitting the Pastille - A New Approach

2012-01-27T12:00:00.000-05:00

Yes, it still isn't finished. Surprised?

It's getting closer, right?

The back of the fashion fabric version was still not working, there was too much fabric in the back length-wise. After becoming increasingly frustrated with trying to fit the dress, as cut (I even had my sister try to pin-fit me at the holidays to no avail) I finally made the muslin that I should have made months before!

Major Improvement!!!

What did I learn? After taking and recording my true body measurements, I discovered that the average misses pattern has a neck to waist measurement in the back that measures 16" while mine is almost 1.5 inches shorter*. Therefore, I had to take almost 2" out of the back length (see below).

In the muslin, I was able to see that making the back shorter by cutting from the bottom or even altering the pattern at the shorten/lengthen line was not going to correct the back length the way it needed to be. The extra length was not below the armsyce but throughout the back shoulder and cap sleeve area. When I placed the shoulder seams together, the underarm curve of the back piece was far below the front curve and it billowed out. After pinning up 2 inches in the area between the side seams and the cap sleeve I could see that the back neckline was now lower and in a more natural position. See the very 1st photo to see how high it was before the alteration. I also extended the back darts up to the alteration to take up some of the extra width.

I needed to change the bodice waist line to even it out from side to side. Because of the front angling down to the sides it made the dress seem like it was rising up in the front. Therefore, after I sewed the darts I used a ruler to straighten the bodice seam line so that it would match the line of the skirt.

The red marks in this photo show where the paper pattern piece will be altered.

The new bodice

The skirt portion of the dress fit well over the rear, however the curve lower on the hip was too extreme for my body. So, with the skirt portion I kept the waist at size 10 but brought the hips down to the size 8 and will shave some more off the hip curve so it no longer sticks out like fabric saddlebags. I might need a wee swayback alteration, bring in the waist some more and lower the bodice darts about half an inch.

Though the back alteration helped immensely, there are still three sets of drag lines on the front of this dress. I thought that altering the waistline of the bodice would eliminate the drag on the skirt, but it seems I need to bring it up even more. Perhaps I should make the side darts larger and use those to pull up the bodice sides? The third set of drag lines are just a given with cap sleeves.

Hopefully, the next time I write about the Pastille on this blog will be to reveal the finished version. By the way, the Vogue duster coat; still in its muslin phase, is being put on the back burner. There are a few separates (like my latest skirt) that I feel are more important to finish sooner than later. More on those later.

*Yeah, I don't get it either. Why 16"? Does anyone else have this problem?

2. Corduroy Skirt - Built By Wendy

2012-01-24T17:00:00.002-05:00

I was able to salvage the brown corduroy skirt I first worked on in January and February last year. I guess it's only fitting that I finally finish it this January.

Pattern: Basic skirt pattern (from the Built By Wendy Sew U book)

Pattern Description: Fitted straight skirt with contoured waist.

Pattern Sizing: Medium

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It has a great shape and fit (when made as directed.)

Fabric Used: Chocolate brown wide-wale corduroy from my stash (at least 10 yrs old), recycled Ann Taylor Loft brown corduroy jeans, black lining material, 7" brown regular zipper, and Seams Great. No money was spent, everything was from my stash!

Chocolate wide wale (main), tobacco brown narrow wale (insert panel)

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: This is my second version of the skirt in the Sew U book. The first one still fits perfectly. My mistake this time was to taper the pattern to alter the A-line to a straight skirt. Unfortunately, I started the cutting line too far up and could not get the resulting skirt over my hips. While I thought about adding fabric panels to the skirt at the time I didn't actually get around to doing that until last month. (No surprise, right?)

I started this as a quick project to use up fabric from my stash. I even decided to interline it for insulation and finish the back zipper seam with Seams Great to make the inside look nice. So it was very disappointing when it didn't work out. In order to fix the skirt I looked at using Jo Ann's wide wale corduroy but it was not as nice as the stash fabric. My corduroy is a rich chocolate color and has a gorgeous sheen. I did; however, have a pair of old brown corduroys I was keeping for scrap fabric, so I decided to use that. The color doesn't match, it is dull in comparison, and is a narrower wale. However, I'm going to pass it off as a "design element."

For the side inserts, I created narrow, elongated triangular shapes the length of the skirt. Therefore, there are two seams at each side. The four seams were graded and at the top where it was most narrow the two innermost seam allowances were clipped close and catch stitched one on top of the other to reduce bulk at the waistband. The remainder of the seams were zigzagged stitched.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! However, I will double check if I make any other alterations to the base pattern.

Conclusion: For free, I now have a slim skirt with side contrast tuxedo stripes in a gorgeous rich brown that looks like velveteen because of the fabric's luster.

Images: my own photos

What's In A Word?

2012-01-21T10:00:00.001-05:00

Where did the term "pencil skirt" go? Now, I’m not talking about the current usage or the original period in the late 1940's that the phrase was used. I’m talking about those decades in between.

I started reading fashion magazines in the 1980s and have read them consistently since then. However, a year or two ago when I started reading the term "pencil skirt" on the sewing blogs, it struck a chord. Why did this seem so faddish when we were describing a timeless item of clothing? How did the phrase get to be so out of use? Now the words sound like buzz words used to differentiate the in-the-know from the out-of-touch. The pencil skirt is not that unusual, it is only:

A skirt that is a slim and straight in silhouette. The length is just above, at, or below the knee and is tailored for a close fit. The name comes from this fit; it is long and slim like a pencil.

Its predecessor was the hobble skirt which was just as narrow but worn down to the ankles! In fashion, Christian Dior has been said to be the first to show this silhouette in the late 1940s as a contrast to his New Look.

So, what DID we call a knee-length tapered skirt in the 1970s or 80s? It’s not like the garments themselves disappeared, they have been with us consistently for decades. In high school, I wore so-called "pencil" skirts with tights, thick socks, and chunky ankle boots and that was the 1980s. However, I can’t remember what they were called then.

So, does anyone remember what consumers and the fashion press called pencil skirts before their resurgence?

Image: In Vogue One Day blog

2011 in Review

2012-01-10T09:00:00.003-05:00

I noticed many sewing bloggers did a year-end review of their projects. For some reason, I didn't feel up to doing that (it's not like I have SO MANY items to show) If you want to see them all in one place just hit the imadethis2011 tag in the column to your right.

Last week I saw the year end post that Caitlin did at The Story Girl, where she listed things in her life she experienced instead. I like that idea, so here is my 2011.

Movies:

In this past year, I have seen over 25 movies through Netflix or in the theaters. I have a Netflix account where I receive 2 DVDs a month, but that's not where all these come from. No, a good friend of mine has been treating me to a movie a week, knowing that I have no money for entertainment. The highlights of this year:

Despicable Me - I actually want to own this one!
Bridesmaids - I laughed...I cried. Seriously. I did.
The Hurt Locker - Brilliant.
Drive - the staging and atmosphere was fabulous. The gore, just a bit too visual.
The Muppets - Perfect movie. No doubt.
The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo - Can't wait to see the next two installments. Rooney Mara is truly mesmerizing.

Books:

Because of my lovely local library (half a block away!) I have read even more Agatha Christie novels (total is now 35+) and have read vintage sewing books that I otherwise would not have discovered.

My enrollment at VCU has allowed me to read glossy expensive books on designers and fashion history books.

I reviewed Little Green Dresses and then received a free copy from the publisher!

School:

I finished three classes (topics: global ethics in world religions, eastern world religions and local Richmond architecture) during 2011 by attending all three semesters, gaining an A in two classes and a B in one. Just one more to go!!!

Sewing:

I participated in the Colette Patterns Fall Palette Challenge which morphed into a wardrobe plan that I am using for fall 2011 through to spring 2012.

I completed 10 clothing items, more than I thought I had. I happily can say that I wear most of those items all the time. I also repurposed two prior makes into things I would wear. I also made 6 infinity scarves and three necktie eyeglass cases as X-mas presents.

I researched and then took comprehensive body measurements to assist in fitting all my future garments. That knowledge has already helped me out with my dress and my coat.

I acquired two vintage sewing manuals, Better Homes and Gardens Sewing Book and Designing Dress Patterns through Alibris.com

I was reunited with my mother's old Kenmore machine, which my sisters and I thought had been sold or given away. Guys, this was the machine I learned to sew on.

Music:

This year I have discovered Florence and the Machine, Claire Maguire, and Mumford and Sons.

Life:

I was in my very first car accident right outside of my office on the way to work. I was hit by someone running a red light. My car suffered quite a bit of damage, Luckily I suffered none, though I still flinch at some intersections. Strangely, while waiting for the cops I could not stop thinking about how much the guy who hit me looked like Joel David Moore, Colin the "squintern" on Bones.

I experienced the largest earthquake ever on the American east coast. I was outdoors sitting on a wooden picnic bench and felt the sustained vibrations go up through my body. It felt like a train was passing just a few yards in front of me with the bench and trees vibrating along with me. What a unique sensation!

I relaunched my Etsy shop, Metamorphpursuit with a new banner design I created in Powerpoint. I also designed labels and business cards to brand the store.

I completed my stint writing profiles of fashion's important designers for Colette Patterns and their Coletterie blog.

So on to 2012, a year which will reveal its own mysteries and adventures. Happy New Year!

A Repurpose Project - Elastic Waists are EVIL

2012-01-09T09:00:00.001-05:00

To the left is an example of why I no longer wear my gray gathered skirt. It did that to my waist.

No offense to Very Purple Person but I need it known that my waistline is smaller than my other two measurements! So I decided to take that skirt apart and make a proper flat waistband for it.

That was half a year ago. I removed the elastic and moved the still mostly intact skirt to the mending pile. While surfing the web last week, I came across Pattern Runway 's FREE Very Gathered Skirt pattern. Yes, so there are gathers still but they are all in the back, all you see from the front is the flat waistband.

I am not doing a true review of this pattern only because I ended up changing quite a bit from their instruction. I ended up using it only for the width of the front and back sections, the slight hip curve, and the pocket pieces; which was something the original skirt lacked.

I instead made the skirt that is a blend between the Pattern Runway skirt and View B from Butterick 5285.

I was able to keep the back waistband from the original skirt. The back pattern piece was much longer than my hemmed skirt so I just used the pattern piece to cut the skirt down to size width-wise, keeping the hem intact. On the front, I removed the old waistband casing, used the front waistband piece and interfaced it for stability. I had just enough fabric left to cut the four pocket pieces. At the time, I didn't have the inspiration picture available so I just eyeballed the pleats, stitched up the skirt, and was done.

Sorry, took picture but had forgotten to press pockets. After these pictures were taken I opened up the back casing and took 1.5 inches of elastic out. The skirt fits more snug now and at my correct waistline.

Before and After

Images: verypurpleperson, my own pictures

An Update On My Car

2012-01-06T09:00:00.013-05:00

Before - 12/14/2011

They had to replace the hood, front bumper, right headlight, right fender, license frame, attach a new "H" hood ornament, and give all new parts a matching paint job.

After - 12/30/2011

Look at that shine! Now from the front, my 1995 Honda looks new and not sixteen years old. All I have to do now is get a replacement license plate because mine was run over repeatedly before being recovered from the scene.

Note: I love my Nationwide coverage!! Their approved repair shop, Richmond Collision Center, sent me daily pictures of my car and kept me updated to all changes. I even got a Krispy Kreme donut when I came to pick up my car!

Images: my own photos

Shabby Apple SALE and Me

2012-01-04T17:00:00.000-05:00

You may have noticed the Shabby Apple Ad that has been in the corner of blog for a while. I am now an affiliate* with the company. I feel their vintage-inspired and feminine clothes fit well with my blog and it's readers.

The company has many lovely dresses, separated into themed mini-collections with fun names such as Roamin Holiday, Up and Away, Green Leaf, South Pacific or the Silk Road.

Well, in honor of the New Year, Shabby Apple is offering a 20% site-wide sale! How great is that?

The sale lasts through January. Use code NEWYEAR at checkout for 20% off!

*Any purchase made by linking to the company through my site will earn me a commission.

Have You Seen This Fabric?

2011-12-28T16:14:00.000-05:00

It is named Outfits (!) and is a print in the Little Apples collection by Aneela Hoey's for Moda Fabrics. I am in love with it and check it out every time I am in Quilting Adventures, my local quilting store. Because it's from Moda Fabrics it is much softer than the typical quilting cottons found at JoAnns or Hancocks.

Wouldn't this print be adorable in a retro-inspired short-sleeved camp blouse? Yes, yes, I am still inspired by the costumes for Amy Adams in The Muppets, especially the heart emblazoned blouse worn with the bird skirt.

Images: Fat Quarter Shop

Fashion In Film: The Muppets (2011)

2011-12-20T09:00:00.019-05:00

Disney Pictures
Jason Segal, Amy Adams, Chris Cooper
Costume Design: Rahil Afiley

A nice simple cotton dress with a few interesting details, the ruching on the outer sides of the princess seams, two identical bows at neckline center, and the wide and lovely purple suede? belt

Now, this dress has some spice to it. Check out the wild almost Ikat print of turquoise and green; the matching belt, and those massive tulip sleeves. Note that the neckline and sleeve hems are bound with self-fabric binding.

Here is a sweet blouse and skirt combination. I love the pin-tucked front with the white porcelain-like buttons and that full skirt with the painted on or embroidered floral design. Hey, isn't that the same purple belt? Yes, and it matches the skirt perfectly! It also makes story sense as the character was on a week's vacation. If you notice in the film, she also wears the same style shoes, the Jig in different colors. (sorry, already sold out!)
Jig by Seychelle Shoes

This little number only has about 4 seconds of screen time but the photos show it to be something special. An all-over eyelet fabric lain over a red fabric which gives the dress an icing pink tint from a distance. I notice that the Colette Ceylon dress is somewhat similar to this style if you wish to replicate Mary's dress.

Now this blouse is my favorite, not because of the style but because of that wild semi-floral print and the sweet translucent mint green buttons. It looks like a Japanese double gauze, doesn't it? Perhaps Nani Iro? If it isn't vintage it might not be so hard to find. In fact, later in the film she wears a top that I actually tried on (and photographed!) in Anthropologie a few seasons ago.

Poster image, on display at the ArcLights Sherman Oaks cinema

This outfit only appears on the poster and not in the movie but it's so cute I had to look it up too. The poster doesn't show the skirt but I found a picture of the costume on display. I love the mix of prints, stylized red hearts on white and soaring black birds on red brocade sating. Also, notice the quilted matching belt? The blouse has a ruffled button placket and Bishop sleeves. The entire outfit is very Prada (or Miu Miu), isn't it?

The best dress! Unfortunately, this one also isn't in the movie but only on one of the many parody posters that Disney did. This harvest orange/red brocade with golden ochre flowers is probably vintage. Note the crisp knife pleats at the front of the skirt only and the double bow waist decoration in lieu of a belt. This is the second time that one of the costumes has had two parallel bows placed together...and I like it.

Images: Disney Pictures, Hollywood Movie Costumes and Props

Have You Seen This?

2011-12-16T16:36:00.013-05:00

What we have all been waiting for...a Hey Girl site specifically for crafters and sewists! LUV IT!!

Here at: Handmade Ryan Gosling

Remember you can submit suggestions to the site at handmaderyangosling at gmail dot com.

So, This Happened...

2011-12-14T17:06:00.004-05:00

I am fine, but my car sure isn't. My poor sixteen year-old Honda, the first car that I ever bought now in my first ever car accident. Good times, good times...

On my way to work, hit by a car going through a red light, luckily he only hit the front because otherwise, he would have rammed into the driver side and me.

Taking some ibuprofen and going to sleep now.

UPDATE: In rental car (sweet!), his insurance accepted liability, and now just waiting on an estimate of the damage.

Go See The Muppets!

2011-12-12T09:00:00.002-05:00

Obviously, many people already have or it wouldn't have made $69,837,000 already! If you haven't gone yet, go now.

As I said (hah! get it?) earlier, I'm a Muppet fan from way back. In fact, my friend A. and I realized that at our age we're actually the original Muppet fans. So, go bask in waves of nostalgia as all of the songs and characters that you've loved over the years appear on screen.

Sweetums, Walter, Jason Segal, and Amy Adams

If you were ever a fan of the show, you are quaranteed to love this movie. The songs are clever (written by Bret McKensie, one half of the Flight of Conchords) the dance sequences fun, and the celebrity cameos numerous. And for the readers of my blog, Amy Adam's retro Smalltown-USA wardrobe is adorable. If you enjoyed the costumes of Pushing Up Daisies then you're gonna like this too. Expect another Fashion In Film post all about the clothes soon.

I would love to send you to Youtube to see clips but I think it's better if you go in with no expectations. However, I will embed one of their movie spoof trailers. Enjoy!

So go and enjoy an amazingly written (Thanks Jason Segal!) movie. Oh and if you have kids, you can take 'em. However, it's not required.

Images: Box Office Mojo

Rounding the Bend...

2011-12-08T09:35:00.015-05:00

Yes, those Pajama Game dresses were lovely but let's move on.

Did I ever tell you I was taking a class this semester? Well, I did and it's done now! Whew! I now officially have one more class (already signed up in) in the spring and I will be done. Yes, and I actually believe it this time. My only problem is the money to pay for it; I paid for this last class by installment, but I'm sure something will work out.*

So, no more school until January 17. However, there are two sewing projects (Pastille, Vogue duster) that I vowed HAVE TO BE DONE before the New Year and some dozen holiday gifts to be made. Luckily, I won't see some family members and friends until after the festivities so I have some extra time, but there are still at least five that need to be done in less than two weeks. Have I started? HECK NO!

This weekend will hopefully be a busy one with the sewing and a very much anticipated viewing of The Muppets movie!! I am not ashamed to admit that I own soundtracks to the original The Muppet Movie (1979)and the John Denver and the Muppets: A Christmas Together (1979) TV special. Also, in the last few years I've developed a little bit of a crush on Pepe the King Prawn. Okay?

*Though some sales in my Etsy shop would certainly help. Hint, hint.

Fashion In Film: The Pajama Game (1957)

2011-11-29T12:00:00.004-05:00

Warner Bros. Pictures
Doris Day, John Raitt, Carol Haney
Costume Design: Jean & William Eckart

Check out those lovelies above from the company picnic scene in 1957's The Pajama Game starring Doris Day. This scene is a large part of the film and is filled with summer dresses like these. Great inspiration all around, even in the choice of colors, there was definitely a defined color story involved. In group shots, you will notice a repeat of the same color or an equal number of striped or checked garments interspersed around. The men also wear these great gingham shirts where the squares, usually 1/4 to 2 inches, are done up in truly over-sized checks; note the orange one on the fellow in the background above.

This was one of my favorites dresses (the blue+white sailor-inspired one above is another) as I love the combination of pink+orange or red+orange. Actually, I think orange looks great with everything, depending on the shades. I love the dark orange piping around the bodice and the exuberant orange petticoat. The petticoats under all the dresses added surprise to the dance scenes, see that baby blue dress below with the lime green underskirt?

Meet the exuberant Carol Haney (above and below), who steals this movie away from Doris and the male lead, John Raitt, in his only leading film role. A Bob Fosse dancer, she originated the Gladys role in the 1954 musical. You can see an eerie future influence when you know that Shirley MacLaine was her understudy for the role on Broadway. They seem to have had similar haircuts and color, right?

Carol
Shirley Carol

Notice the exuberant, brightly colored and highly graphic "factory" outfits on the women below. You can't ask for any more excitement in the work place, can you? Check out the bright pinks and those crazy-loud stripes on the left and do you see the extreme pattern mixing on that first jumper with mustard stripes worn over a pink+red floral print with a starched white collar?

Finally, we come to Doris, the actual title star of the movie. Her best outfit, seen at the picnic, is a full white dress with a tiny blue scarf worn around her neck. Unfortunately, I could only find one color picture online. Also, here are two of her work/play outfits, notice the same colors as found in the picnic scenes and also the use of gingham and stripes. The red shirt reminds me that I want to make some spring pieces out of gingham for next year.

Having never seen the play or movie before, I was extremely surprised how many of its songs I had heard before. There were so many memorable songs in this production, songs like Hernando's Hideaway, Steam Heat, Hey There, and There Once Was A Man*. That last song is amazing, exuberant, and fun. It has almost a Sondheim feel to it, and I love me some Sondheim.

Over all, it was an enjoyable film, despite the non-feminist message, and because of the definite eye-candy quality of the costumes.

*Links lead to the performances on YouTube.

Holiday Haul Of Books - If I Win, You Win

2011-11-17T17:00:00.014-05:00

This year I am participating in the Chronicle Books Happy Haul-idays contest.

It's wonderful, you can enter to win $500 worth of books from one of the best publishing houses! To enter, all I have to do is post my book wish list and designate a charity, in my case, the Susan G. Komen Foundation. The bonus for you is that by commenting on this post, if I win a randomly selected commenter will also win the same list of books. Free. So let me know what you think about my choices or what book do you wish was on the list.

Here is my list of Chronicle books that I would buy with $500:

Pattern Magic: Laurence King Publishing

Pattern Magic 2: Laurence King Publishing

Pattern Making

Fabric for Fashion: The Swatch Book Laurence King Publishing

Instant Gratification: Jewelry: Fast & Fabulous Projects

Knit Knack Kit: Simple Instructions and Tools for 25 Terrific Knitting Projects

Denyse Schmidt Quilts: 30 Colorful Quilt and Patchwork Projects

Saul Bass: A Life in Film and Design

Between the Bridge and the River

The Art of Pixar: The Complete Color Scripts and Select Art from 25 Years of Animation

Art of the Modern Movie Poster: International Postwar Style and Design

Winerd: The Wine Tasting Game that Crushes Grape Fears

My total is $487.70

Just Slow-Poking Along...

2011-11-16T08:54:00.023-05:00

Progress, but no progress worth photographing. Just comparing my coat armscye to other well-fitting garments. I had no idea that pattern alteration would get me so anxious. I just want this to work so much that I'm scared to cut into the pattern. I should just trust my instructions.

Next project: A stuffed toy for my step-grandniece. There are so many choices to choose from, but I only have until next Wednesday.

By the way, I now have my own practically never-used copies of both the1961 Better Homes & Gardens Sewing Book for just $7 and the 1971 copy of Designing Dress Patterns, Third Edition by Helen Nicol Tanous for $2.44!

I ordered them from Alibris.com,* my favorite place for used books and better yet, these books are in excellent condition; no marks, discoloration, warping, bent or ragged pages, and the covers are in excellent condition too. The only negative is that being in storage for so long, they have a horrendous musty odor. So no pictures until they come out of their "cage" (a tightly closed plastic bag with a box of baking soda). But, really they look just like the photos above!

*I have yet to get a book from Alibris that wasn't in near brand new condition. You just have to look for sellers with the best ratings and very thorough product descriptions. These made both books sound worse than they really are.

Taking A Measure...

2011-11-08T15:00:00.001-05:00

Sorry, no progress to show. All of my garment construction has been happening in my head...I have been researching fitting and adjustment materials to improve the fit of my garments.

I was first looking for info on narrow back adjustments for the coat, which lead to looking in those same sources for remedies to the fit issues of the Colette Pastille (too-long bodice, narrow back adj?), my potential Colette Clovers (full belly adj, crotch length, sway back?) and instructions on grading my Vogue 1922 pants pattern up two sizes.

It led me to decide to wait a bit on alterations. The research led me to the conclusion that what I really needed to do first was the basics: I needed to record my personal measurements. This is also the first step to drafting my own patterns.

To help others here are some sources I have found interesting:

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service Pattern Alteration series

Threads articles on measurements

Sew Stylish Ready...Set...Measure!, p. 80, Volume 1

Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina

Kwik Sew Measuring and Pattern Alteration Guide

Design It Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified Taking Your Measurements, p. 30.

The biggest thing I found was that different sources have different ideas on what "the" essential measurements are and also have different ways of correctly measuring them.

So I am going to pick one source and follow through with that system's plan for doing adjustments since those personal measurements are essential to make the correct changes. I will be using the AgriLife Extension series for both my measurements and for alterations for Vogue 7714, the Pastille and the Clovers. I will use the Threads instructions to grade up my Vogue 1922 pants pattern.

The best thing is that once I have my measurements recorded I can compare them to paper patterns and make some changes even before the first muslin is made.

Save time and fabric? Sounds good to me!

Fitting The Pastille!

2011-11-04T13:30:00.003-04:00

Pastille Fridays, part 2

Fitting Issues with my Pastille

Doesn't look that bad from the front, right? That is if you didn't know my waist was smaller than this, you wouldn't be suspicious. However, the dress is too big at the waist and directly above and below despite my measurements exactly matching the pattern measurements. Just goes to show you, it really is proportion and how your body is distributed, not the size numbers or the weight.

However, check out the back.* Despite how pretty close it fits in front that is some truly excessive fabric pooling back here. I had no idea about that until I went ahead and basted in the zipper to check. Thankfully, I do have more of this fabric if I need to cut two new back pieces (and there is still some in the stores too) However, I really don't want to redo that neckline and facing. I did a great job the first time.

I can't say this is a sway back problem because it fits great over the rear. This is more a back length problem, I think the bodice is too long for my body. The zipper is only hand-basted so I can remove that and maybe bring in the width by at least a 1/2" on both sides, deepen the darts and shorten the back bodice.

Side view. Ugh.

Also, can you see how the waistline dips down towards the back? It's even more obvious when my arms are down. At that side seam, my actual waist is at least one inch above that line. Though it might have stretched while it was on the hanger. I like the way the skirt fits so I only want to alter the back bodice pieces. Any suggestions?

These two pictures show where my actual waist is located compared to the waistline of the dress, a more than one inch difference. This is where comprehensive body measurements or a muslin could have really helped me out.*

That is why I started to look up information on taking your correct body measurements that can be compared to pattern pieces before a muslin is cut out.* I will be writing about that in another post that will include all the online and print resources that I have found.

*I promise I will never NOT make a muslin again!

Stitching The Pastille!

2011-10-28T15:00:00.000-04:00

In honor of The Colette Sewing Handbook showing up in stores and mailboxes a bit earlier than expected (NOW!) I am going to let you in on my time constructing one of the new dress patterns in the book. In fact, it just happens to be the dress on the front cover. Enjoy the journey.

Part 1

In the spring, I responded to a request from Sarai of Colette Patterns for pattern testers. I had tested the Oolong dress for her before. This time I was offered two patterns from her upcoming book, The Colette Sewing Handbook. Licorice, a loose shift-like dress with sash and draped collar and Pastille, a fitted sheath dress with a modified sweetheart neckline and petal-like cap sleeves.

While I liked both designs, Pastille called out to me because I could see it fulfilling an important purpose in my wardrobe. I saw it as a potential job interview dress. Professional, non-fussy, classic, but with a non-corporate vintage edge. Styled with a cool vintage enamel brooch this dress would be great in my wardrobe, pretty and feminine enough for a dinner date but also appropriate for more serious occasions.

I will be posting a traditional review of this dress (see the teaser at left) later but I wanted to write in more detail about what I learned while making it. As it turns out I found myself trying out some new techniques when constructing my version of the Pastille dress.

My new pattern weights

My first move was to go to Home Depot and buy some metal washers. These would be my new pattern weights instead of straight pins. At first, I only saw the small ones that weighed nothing but eventually I found the heavy steel/zinc 5/8" size which were perfect. I now have 14 of them at only $.46 each! They work wonderfully in holding down your fabric and I've already used them on stretchy Lycra knits. In addition, re-positioning of the pattern is now quick and easy.

The second new thing I did was use clear tape to help out my dart making abilities. I have never been able to sew a straight dart, they always veer off course and end up where they're not meant to end. This time I replicated the dart lines from the pattern using a straight piece of tape instead of straight pins. Then I could just sew along the edge of the tape. So fabulous and my darts for this project were perfect.

Then I used my new friend (adhesive tape) to mark the three horizontal pleats along the bottom half of the skirt. The instructions say to thread trace the lines but I first wanted to make sure my lines were straight. I didn't have any fabric markers that would show up on this fabric so I used my design ruler and laid tape exactly where the lines were needed. With two contrasting colors of thread I then hand basted across the three skirt pieces right next to the edge of the tape, resulting in perfectly straight lines of stitching. For maximum visibility, I used yellow and orange thread to mark the different rows and I loved the resulting contrast on the dark gray fabric. Perhaps I'll use the same technique as a permanent feature on a future project.

However, this project used up a lot of tape, so next time I will be using painter's tape. It has a very low adhesive factor so that it can be used again at least two more times. Not as wasteful.

Coming up: Fitting issues with the Pastille.

I Forgot... I Have Always Loved Dusters (2)

2011-10-26T09:30:00.002-04:00

Yes, I forgot that I have two similar long jackets (dusters) in my closets! Albeit two that were destined to Goodwill because I never wear them anymore. However, I still adore the brown, 100% silk Ann Taylor jacket, it was part of a fabulous suit. Because it is a size 2(!), I eventually outgrew the pants. The blue one is a perma-crinkle 100% linen jacket by Mandolorama (?) in Euro size 42 that I bought in New Orleans. So, I suppose I was missing this type of item in my closet and that's why this coat became so important to me. Hmmm.

So lucky me, I can compare the fit of each jacket to my muslin in order to pinpoint what it is I have to change to get the final shape I want. Note: These two jackets don't really fit anymore because of my hips, so they don't look good buttoned, one of the reasons the new jacket will not have any closures.

Front view of the muslin looks good. Compared to the other two I think it may have a better fit in the shoulders, while the others hang over the shoulder points a bit.

Sleeve cap, I have no idea which one looks the best. I know the muslin has too much ease because I had to gather a bit, but in regard to the shape of the others, I have no clue.

It looks like the brown might fit better? What do you think?

Back span, with arms raised, I don't like how the muslin shoulders stick up but they do look better than the blue one. The blue also has these horizontal wrinkles along the back I didn't know about. I was surprised to see them because the jacket didn't feel tight at all when I raised my arms.

The brown one, again, looks the best. It is of course a much more fluid fabric than the crisp linen and a cotton comforter cover. Most importantly, you can see that both finished coats have some shaping at the waist while the green muslin falls straight down from shoulder to hip.

Rear view is the big problem. What I don't like: how the muslin bags out above the rear, is too wide everywhere above the hips, and has those vertical lines alongside the armsyce. You can see that the shaping at the waist of both the blue and brown flatters the read ~~end~~ view. Both of those jackets also have a center back seam which might be my salvation and a better solution than a narrow back adjustment*.

Side view, again too much fabric in the same exact spot: around the waist and above the rear. The shaping on the other two give a slight bit of shape to this view too.

My next step is to compare the measurements from the finished coats to the corresponding points on my muslin and see where I stand.

* Though I did find excellent instructions for one on the web from Threads, various blogs, and this great pattern alteration series from the Texas A&M AgraLife extension program.

Vintage Sewing Books I Want!

2011-10-24T13:30:00.005-04:00

I borrowed two great sewing books at my local library this year (multiple times).

All-around Sewing Reference

Note: Same book, different editions: 1961 and 1970 (they removed the tag-line). The 1970 edition was available in a metal binder version, see below.

Better homes & Gardens Sewing Book (1961)

What's I found cool inside:

The book shows five different ways to make a sheer overdress with an opaque inner slip that also formed its own foundation garment. The instructions included details on how to construct the inner corselet for each dress. The construction is a little different depending on how the outer sheer dress was to be attached to the inner slip.

Drafting and Patternmaking

Designing Your Own Dress Patterns (1951)
Designing Dress Patterns Third Ed. (1971) by Helen Nicol Tanous.

Check out some of the styles I could create from this book (more at the link above):

Examples of drafting projects

Her method of moving darts is probably no different than many other guides, but her variations are what I love. The book shows things that they did when designing clothes in the 1940-50s that they don't do anymore in home sewing patterns. Besides the Advanced Vogue designer patterns the goal nowadays is easy quick sewing, with a minimum of custom details.

I want my own copies. Onward...new mission!

Update: Just ordered them both from Alibris!!

Eat My Dust-er! (1)

2011-10-21T09:00:00.008-04:00

First muslin for Vogue 7714

Last night, I basted in the sleeves of my Vogue 7714 muslin. I am making view C, the 3/4 long collarless jacket. This pattern was a mystery to me as there are only two reviews for it on Patternreview.com form 2005-06. Even though one of them mentioned that the coat was oversized and the pattern description said "very loose-fitting" I was still astounded by the sizing.

I had purchased the pattern months ago while in denial about my true measurements. Therefore, I bought the pattern in the (8-10-12) size for $6, even though my lower body measurements correspond exactly with those of a size 16 with a 30" waist and 40" hips.

This jacket will be worn over layers, maybe a light sweater so it needs some room but not too much that it would look baggy over a t-shirt.

I opened up the tissue to read the finished garment measurements. Luckily, this pattern gives all three. Imagine my surprise when the listed final garment measurement on the size 8 hips was 6.5 inches more than my hip measurement of 40" and 14 ! inches over the 32.5" hip measurement for that size. However, not wanting to risk fate I cut out a straight size 10, resulting in 7.5 inches of ease at the hips, and 14" at the waist. How do you think it looks compared to the pattern photo?

It seems to have the same amount of ease and the fit looks good, right? Seriously, the ease on this pattern in insane. For all of the sizes, the design ease is 10.5" at bust, 20" at waist, and 14" at hips! Does that seem excessive to you?

Another shot of the front muslin

In these pictures I have not attached the facing so the front bodice doesn't lay as it should. It seems to overlap too much at the top, very unlike the pattern photo. Don't know how to address that issue.

The big problem I see is the back of the jacket. There is a lot of extra fabric between and under the shoulders and too much ease in the rear sleeve cap. I need to find a way to decrease the size in all three areas, around the back shoulder line and underneath the armscye. All without negatively altering the good fit in the front.

Here are some options:

Cut the back out one size smaller in a size 8. Lately, I've been suspecting that my back is narrower than my front enough that I need to make allowances. Reduce cap ease on back sleeve.

Cut upper back in size 8 and taper down to a 10 at the hips. Reduce cap ease on back sleeve.

Pinch in the center back by 1/2" inch from neck to hem so the shoulder seam line is moved towards neck and corresponds with the end of my shoulder. Reduce cap ease on back sleeve.

Can anyone think of anything else? Thanks!

Twist Top - Butterick 5429

2011-10-17T11:00:00.000-04:00

Item 3 of the Fall Palette Challenge:

Pattern: Butterick 5429

Pattern Description: Long-sleeved twist top with dropped shoulders

Pattern Sizing: Size BB (8-14), I made a size 12 since I was making it in a knit. Could have cut it even smaller, maybe by two sizes.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The only issue I have with the top is the one I had when I made my first one. The pattern illustrations are deceiving. They show a more nipped in waist and in fact, the pattern description calls this a close-fitting top. I disagree. This is very much a loose-fitting top when made according to their instructions.

Fabric Used: Global Traveler rayon jersey (95% rayon, 5% Spandex) from Jo-Ann Fabrics.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Because I wanted it to be a more fitted top I cut it one size smaller. When I realized I could have cut it even smaller I started to sew the seam allowances at 6/8". The design leaves a lot of extra fabric hanging underneath the knot, far too much to be attractive, so after completing the front bodice I sewed a new seam 1/2" away from the old and blended the stitching into the original seam right under the twist. That was exactly what it needed to streamline. I then altered the pattern piece accordingly so I won't have to deal with that again.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would make it again in both knits and wovens. I have already cut the pattern down to a size 8 and made the center bodice alteration, so of course I'm going to try this again. I would recommend it to others but suggest that a muslin be made first.

Conclusion: I love it, the shape, the colors and the print. This top goes with many of the pants and skirts that I already have and the ones I plan to make.

What's Going On In My Sewing Room

2011-10-13T10:00:00.001-04:00

I have three of my Fall Palette Challenge pieces completed!

1) Simplicity 2406, 2) Vogue 2883, 3) Butterick 5429

Unfortunately, gray days have now arrived in Richmond so all the pictures I took of Butterick 5429 are too grainy to publish. I am really happy with how this top came out. I made a major alteration to the pattern that improved the overall fit.

I am still working on item 4, which has multiple issues. Too long bodice, too big in the waist, and too much excess fabric in the upper back. Maybe it's time for Fit For Real People to help me out? I'll have to check the libraries in town for a copy.

So, as a break from that I am starting on a muslin for item 5, the Vogue 7714 long coat. Finally, right? I have read the few reviews that exist on Pattern Review and am ready to go. It's really a easy sew but the fit is tantamount before cutting into that moleskin.

I have updated my Fall Palette Challenge board. I've moved that Swiss dot top to spring/summer 2012 and included more pants for winter. I have purchased Colette Pattern's new Clover pant pattern and thanks to a $1.99 sale on stretch poplin at Fabric Mart (and four sales from my Etsy shop!) I now have enough fabric for two pairs in dark chocolate and claret, a rich red color.

Click image to see larger

So three out of the nine are done. Not bad at all.

Becky-Home-ecky, Anyone?

2011-10-04T16:00:00.000-04:00

I have been sewing for a long time, over 20 years (!) actually. In that time, I believe I've become more skilled in my sewing even though I might take a few short cuts, now and then. While I know I'm more than capable of doing couture techniques I really don't have a desire to do them.

However, there are certain rules in my sewing that I will always abide by. Reading and following the instructions of my patterns and sewing manuals was how I taught myself (with guidance from my mother). I found that not just the construction steps were important but also the other information on your instruction sheet before you reached the layouts. Over the years, I found a few things that when not adhered to alter the quality of your sewing drastically, or as I call it...

Best ways to make a garment look "becky-home-ecky"*:

Visible hems - You should not be able to see where your hem is from the visible side. Use a blind hem either by machine or by hand. If by hand, do not pull on the thread and keep it loose. Also be careful that when you press the hem you use the steam instead of placing the iron directly on the fabric.

Puckered seams or hems - This means the tension was either too tight or the seam allowances were never probably ironed either during the construction or at the end.

Puffy Darts - A problem due to incorrect finishing of a dart, was your dart pressed open and laid flat at the point? The best tip is to not back stitch at the point but to just tie the ends in a knot.

Non-crisp pleats - Were you diligently pressing those pleats into place as you constructed them. Remember if needed, to use a press cloth if you're worried about fabric shine or scorching.

Fly-away facings - Did you understitch the facing? If so, have you tacked the facing to the interior shoulder seams, center front, and center back seam allowances?

Misaligned bodice and skirt side seams - Make sure that these match long before wondering if your patterned fabric matches. Loads of retail garments go out without correct pattern matching across seams, even high end pieces. If needed, attach bodice and skirt pieces before attaching them to the corresponding back pieces.

Wonky or too-small buttonholes - Practice, practice, practice on a suitable piece of scrap fabric before working on the final garment.

Strain marks across bust, stomach, or thighs - Always allow for style ease when you sew up a project. You may like it tighter but straining marks (across chest, stomach, hips) can ruin a perfectly sewn garment. It just looks like you suddenly gained weight before you could buy new clothes that fight you correctly. Believe me, I know.

Can you think of any others?

*You know where this phrase comes from, right?

Belted Dress - Simplicity 2406

2011-09-29T16:00:00.000-04:00

Item 2 of the Fall Palette Challenge:

Pattern: Simplicity 2406 - A Cynthia Rowley design

Pattern Description: Belted dress with gathered 3/4 raglan sleeves

Pattern Sizing: Size H5 (6-14), I made a size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? There was nothing I didn't like about the dress, the only problem I had was the mistake I made. I should have bought the next size group and made a 16 instead of the 14 which is two inches too small at the hips. When cutting, I then forgot to add that missing width to the dress, it can be worn but is a bit snug when I have my hands in the pockets. However, what I love about the pattern is the pockets and the gathered wide neckline.

Fabric Used: Sew Classics brown heather solid suiting from Jo-Ann Fabrics, Coats & Clark thread in Twig #8480, that perfectly matches the fabric, and Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made four changes; three because of the pattern and one because of my own mistake. After being warned about the pocket installation instructions in Kyle's review of this dress I instead did them the way I always do and avoided a headache. Also in the same review I learned that additional length would need to be added to the sash and that I could eliminate the zipper completely because the dress would still fit over the head.

Because I made the dress in the wrong size I also had to decrease the back seam allowance to 1/2" instead of 5/8" in order to add as much width as I could to the dress. However, I forgot another point from Kyle's review that stated just how wide the neckline was so I should have only increased it from the waist down and actually increased the area above to bring in that wide neckline. Oh well, I'll make lingerie bra guards later.

Too much fabric in bodice.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would with the modifications mentioned above, of course. Perhaps, I'll try a print next time.

How to wear it in the Winter!

Conclusion: A cool non-fussy dress suitable for work or traveling because (Bonus!) this fabric does not wrinkle!

Wide-leg Shorts - Vogue 2883

2011-09-27T09:00:00.006-04:00

Item 1 of the Fall Palette Challenge:

Pattern: Vogue 2883 (OOP)

Pattern Description: Wide-legged shorts with pockets

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 12-14-16, I made a size 16 with no alterations

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was trying to copy a pair of shorts I had seen, the Settler shorts (see left) by Rachel Comey. Looking at this pattern, which I originally bought in the early 90s, I noticed that the shorts might fit the bill. Strangely, I couldn't find one current Big 4 pattern with similar shorts at all.

Fabric Used: Sew Classics brown heather solid suiting from Jo-Ann Fabrics, Coats & Clark thread in Twig that perfectly matches the fabric, a matching zipper, and 1 1/4" waistband interfacing that I already had (score!).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I only made one change, I didn't like the spacing of the front pleats and did them my own way, otherwise the pattern worked out fine.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would. Next time perhaps in a lightweight corduroy or a more silky fabric.

Conclusion: Great feminine shorts with the ease of a skirt and the practicality of pants.

Rachel Comey image from Totokaelo.com

Fashion Week Favorite Collection!

2011-09-22T09:00:00.003-04:00

Donna Karan Spring RTW 2012

I love almost everything about this collection! The colors, the jewelry, the diagonal lines, the contrasting bands on the asymmetric, randomly pleated skirts and pretty much all of the shoes. Oh, and yes, that lipstick color too.

The fabrics used were stretch canvas, silk gazaar, organza, paper canvas for the skirts (!), polished raffia, and linen/rayon/spandex blends in shades of black, bone, earth, African violet, copper, terracota, clay, papaya, citrus green, and orange! By the way, I need one of those wooden necklaces stat!

Images: Style.com

Laura Petrie - The Dresses!

2011-09-19T09:00:00.003-04:00

Not to be forgotten, but when you talk about the influence of Laura Petrie's wardrobe on me, you also have to consider the dresses that she wore. Her suits on the other hand were very traditional and somewhat reminiscent of the Queen of England's choices. Seriously. Boxy and not cute.

Except for this one:

Cute!

Daytime.

Let's start with her day dresses, which she wore to school functions, lunch with Millie, or whenever she ventured out in her neighborhood of New Rochelle

Notice how they both have the same silhouette, jewel neck, sleeveless, an almost bell-shaped skirt and a defined waistline. No embellishments. The second dress is a little more dressy and has a clever overlay skirt lined in a contrasting color and is worn with a three-string pearl necklace.

Cocktail and Evening Wear.

I couldn't find a full-length picture of this dress. I love the mixture of different fabrics, which look to me like a matte satin and brocade for the lower bodice section. I believe you would call that a portrait neckline, although a bit more angular? To me, the dress resembles my mother's wedding dress but I know it's not the dress Laura wore to wed because these were taken in their home, see the paneled door?

Another lovely white (or pale colored) dress. This one seems to be made of a brocade satin that is lightly beaded and has a few hanging strands of beads. The skirt is made of chiffon and again the dress has a very defined waistband.

Now this one, believe it or not, is for cocktail parties though it definitely has a boudoir feeling to it, some of which can be attributed to her pose. The satin hostess gown worn over the metallic brocade pants and shining evening shoes is amazing and automatically makes me think of Auntie Mame. This is not a sweet Laura Petrie, this is Naughty Laura!

This one is definitely for a black/white-tie event. From the intensity of the black, I believe the skirt is velvet and the bodice with three-quarter length sleeves is made of a drapey embossed fabric. There also seems to be some sort of reinforced cummerbund constructed under the bust.

VA-VA-Voom

Another out-on-the-town gown, this time in a patterned silk. This style is very reminiscent of an Alfred Shaheen gown. It is shocking how exposed it is for her character, it is not typical.

Yeah, this is more like it!

Laura in a sweet filmy see-through peignoir for looking adorable when Rob comes to bed.

Yes, except for the last piece, I would love to have every item of clothing in this post!

Wouldn't you?

Images: LauraPetrie675 photobucket jpegs. Thanks!

2011 Fall Palette Challenge (with a change)

2011-09-15T09:00:00.003-04:00

Yes, I am participating in the Colette Patterns Fall Palette Challenge. My plan; however, is for all of 2011 and includes projects for both summer and fall.

Summer: Simplicity 2406, Vogue 2883, Vogue 1922, Vogue 9722
(last three, all OOPs)

Fall: Butterick 5429, Vogue 7714, Colette Pastille*, McCall's 5042 and McCall's 5686 (Vogue & McCall's all OOP)

My goal, of course, is not to make everything here within the eight-week time period (puh-lese!) but to complete at least four of these garments during the Challenge. I have three of them near completion, I just need to...well, finish them!

Here is my convenient year-round, all-season palette that I've been working from for the last few years. It's from a Crate and Barrel catalog spread for linen drapes. I found that this line-up represented all of the colors that I liked to wear and are also flattering. The only colors missing are an orange-red/brick shade, pale grey, and a strong, rich purple.

Three of the cold weather pieces are from last year's sewing plan. I have worked on muslins for two of the dresses and the Pastille is stitched up but I ended up having some fitting issues so it is not completely finished. The new fall project is another Butterick 5429 with long sleeves in this beautiful matte jersey print from Jo-Anns. I can't believe I never noticed it before as it incorporates so many of the colors that I like.

Tribal Matte Jersey from Jo-Ann's

* I was a tester for the Pastille dress from Colette Patterns.

One Of The Best Dogs I Have Ever Known

2011-09-13T15:51:00.004-04:00

Rest In Peace, sweet Angie.

*Not my dog, but a friend's dog and one I loved as well.

Lemon Ice Sorbetto - Colette Patterns

2011-09-13T09:00:00.001-04:00

What a perfect name, right?

That's what Wright's calls the color bias binding that I used for this top, Lemon Ice. The fabric is a re-purposed yellow gingham cotton-blend pillowcase that is soft from use.

For this version of the Sorbetto, I started with scooping out the neckline some. Jewel necklines are not as flattering on me as a scoop or v-neck. I also decided to have the pleat inverted, thinking it would be more loose, unfortunately, for some reason, it looks like I should have done a FBA because it's pulling horizontally and causing vertical stress lines too? Why, when the Sorbetto with the pleat sewn up fits is this one too tight?

Details

I did my piping without the last top-stitching step in the instructions and hand sewed by piping on the inside with a clean, smooth finish on the outside.

The substantial hem appropriated from the pillowcase that this top once was. You can really see it in the pictures above.

I Want To Dress Like Laura Petrie

2011-09-12T09:00:00.002-04:00

I mean, have you seen the show lately? Almost everything she wore on The Dick Van Dyke Show (1961-1966) could be worn today. Lovely, flattering, classic shapes and styles. I was searching for a picture of her in the capri pants (which turned out to be cigarette pants instead) and I discovered an amazing source of saved jpegs from the show, all saved on photobucket by LauraPetrie675 here.

Yes, a collection of 366 screenshots!!

Laura Petrie is well known for her cigarette pants, which caused a sensation, housewives nationwide were soon wearing them:

I covet her simple tops with their subtle details or optical patterns. She rarely wore shirts with buttons and I believe these were pullovers or fastened in the back.

What do you think about this, doesn't this top look like it could be a Pierre Cardin knock-off?

LauraPetrie675 is also working on another album of general 60s fashion which already includes images of Mad Men, Emma Pillsbury, Ali McGraw and I Dream of Jeanie.

Thank you, oh thank you, LauraPetrie675!

Coming up...the dresses!

Githurdunn!*

2011-09-08T14:00:00.000-04:00

I finished another project! Even though it was not on either my fall 2010 OR summer 2011 sewing plans! However, I had to make it, it was so easy.

I made another Sorbetto. This time I used a yellow gingham pillowcase from the Ruth Harvey fabric collection*. Positioning the pattern so that the open end of the pillowcase would become the prefinished hems made the project even simpler. I trimmed it using commercial bias binding (in Lemon Ice). However, I reversed the Colette instructions and sewed the right side of the binding to the right side of the fabric, resulting in a clean finish on the front and then hand sewed the binding to the seam allowance on the inside. I also eliminated the final topstitching step.

Before the end of the week I should have another project done too! The pair of heathered brown shorts in the summer plan. Hopefully, the weather; which is damp and rainy lately, will perk up so I can wear them before it's too cold.

Vogue 9772

I also purchased this pattern, Vogue 9772, from their great 1990's VogueElements line (I own five others and love them all) to use for the Swiss dot I already bought. Perhaps the V-neck version in the batiste and the top layer in the Swiss dot or vice-versa.

* I realize I haven't talked about this fabric I received. I only discussed the patterns and the sewing machine my friend M was selling. So, look for a post on the fabric when I can get some decent photographs of the stash.

Quote: Larry the Cable Guy

Bravo, Royal Wedding Guest!

2011-09-04T10:00:00.013-04:00

Oh, mystery lady* invited to the Prussian royal wedding last week? Your style is impeccable. Loving the outfit, especially the rocking lace-covered red dress. Also your fascinator is quite pretty and tasteful. Good job!

*No mystery really, she's Countess Tamara von Nayhauss but I've just never heard of her before.

Oh, Come On!

2011-09-02T15:00:00.001-04:00

I don't think Project Runway is even trying anymore.

Which order is correct above, Winner/Loser or Loser/Winner? One designer above won this task and the other designer was actually eliminated from the competition. In my opinion, the wrong one.

One looks like real fashion* and the other one looks like an arts and crafts project.

One shows imagination, actual designing, construction of three separate garments, and a decent manipulation of the materials. The other is a simple sheer beige gown covered with unfinished fabric scraps.

Perhaps, if the scraps had been finished in an interesting way or fastened to the dress in a way that didn't look like they were pasted on, maybe? But, just how much work, time, and thought do you think each designer put into their work? Equal amounts?

So, who do you think did a better job?

*You may think questionable fashion, but fashion, nonetheless.

Images: via Tom and Lorenzo

The State Of Things

2011-08-30T15:01:00.008-04:00

Posting may be light for a while as I start my fall World Religions class AND try to get some sewing done!

As you can see from the button on the right I will be participating in the Colette Pattern's Fall Palette challenge. As I am still working on the same coordinates from last fall and this summer's wardrobe plans (which all go together color-wise), in a way you already know what I'll be doing but I will write up a new explanatory post on my color choices, pattern choices and why.

But for today I will show you a sweet little pattern I saw on the Web last week. It may not be identical to this coat exactly but if it was made up in chocolate brown corduroy I could still see it satisfying that wish.

McCall's 3617

Images: Millie Motts Flickr stream

Roy Halston

2011-08-24T09:00:00.006-04:00

Here is my last designer profile meant for Colette Patterns.

Roy Halston (1932 - 1990) American

Halston with his Halstonettes.

Born Roy Halston Frowick in Iowa, the designer later known as Halston wanted to be in fashion and sewed as a child. Before moving to New York, there was Chicago where he took night classes studying at the Art Institute of Chicago. In New York he started in the business at the bottom, working as a window dresser and then milliner for Bergdorf Goodman in New York. His high point there was when in 1961 he supplied the first "pillbox" hat worn by the new First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy.

Halston of Bergdorf Goodman hats.

In 1966, with the help and financial backing of his employer Bergdorf Goodman, he went into business, even establishing his own ready-to-wear boutique within the store. Unfortunately, the venture only lasted eighteen months before Halston resigned to establish his own company, Halston Limited in 1968.

Wool suit, Halston of Bergdorf Goodman, 1965.

At a time in America when it was not fashionable to appear rich, his clothes portrayed an understated wealth, a sort of all-American look combined with a luxe "jet-set" vibe. He was considered America's answer to Yves Saint Laurent, as he brought sophistication to sportswear.

Cashmere ensemble, 1979.

In 1970, he developed Halston International for his ready-to-wear clients. His style was of a minimalist nature. His clothes were usually in only one color, rarely in prints and devoid of embellishments. If a patterned or sequined fabric was used, as he did for Liza Minnelli's stage costumes, then the actual outfit design would be spare and use simple lines. Sometimes the only adornment would be the graphic jewelry designs of collaborating artist Elsa Peretti.

Silk evening dress, 1978.

His signature items were slinky halter-neck dresses and silk jersey jumpsuits in solid jewel-tone colors. Many of his clothes fastened without zippers, slipping over the head for effortless wear. His one-shouldered dresses constantly flirted with falling off the shoulders and his unstructured strapless dresses were held up by elastic, drawstrings, and gravity. These light and richly colored dresses were ideal for dancing and being seen in nightclubs.

Lavender Ultrasuede shirtdress, 1970s.

More traditional pieces such as his form-fitting turtle necks, trench coats, jackets and shirtdresses of Ultrasuede were a large part of his collections. He became so well known for his use of the synthetic fabric Ultrasuede that in 2010 a fashion documentary about the designer was released titled Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston at the Tribeca Film Festival.

Silk dress, 1978.

Halston was considered the first American designer of the Media Era and the first true celebrity designer. He appeared as himself on television and was seen out socially with customers Liza Minnelli, Angelica Huston, and Bianca Jagger at nightclubs, especially the famed Studio 54.

Nylon and plastic dress, 1970.

By 1975, he was involved in the design of home linens, menswear, fragrance, shoes, accessories, cosmetics and luggage. In 1983, he was contracted to produce an exclusive Halston collection for American discount department store, J.C. Penney. Unfortunately, among fashion insiders this was considered a huge mistake and a huge backlash developed that resulted in many clients and retail outlets dropping his business.

Silk jersey gown, 1972.

Halston's late night lifestyle and his increasing addiction to cocaine began to negatively affect his life and business. Around this time, the company was acquired by new owners who fired Halston for unreliability and stripped the designer of the rights to his name. In less than ten years, he was dead from an AIDS-related cancer.

Vogue 6606.

Home Sewing Connection: Halston designed patterns for McCall's and Vogue. Earlier Vogue patterns were for his Halston of Bergdorf Goodman hat designs and the company also benefited from his 1970-80s clothing designs.

Silk caftan, 1975.

His style, innovations, and lasting influence on fashion:

He won the Coty American Fashion Critics award in 1962, 1969, 1971, 1972, 1974 and was placed on the Fashion Walk of Fame in New York in 2000.

He appeared as himself on a 1980 fashion-themed episode of The Love Boat.

Designers who have stated that they were influenced by his work are Calvin Klein and Tom Ford, especially in his 1990s designs for Gucci.

Like many of the designers in this series, he also designed airline staff uniforms, in his case for groovy Braniff Airlines.

Images: Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art; Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Sources: Fashion: The Century of the Designer, 1900-1999 (1999) Charlotte Seeling; The World’s Most Influential Fashion Designers (2010) Noel Palomo-Lovinski; Fashion (2003) Christopher Breward; Halston: The Bergdorf Years Patrica Myers, Bergdorf Goodman blog .

Midnight in Paris Dress UPDATE

2011-08-22T16:00:00.028-04:00

When I wrote the original post about this dress I was sure that I had seen a pattern for that exact dress style and I wanted to direct you to it for your own use. Well, I had to search through my numerous "In The Future" aspirational files to find it. But find it, I did.

This pattern image is from a handout created by Bridget Bradley-Scaife for a course on making the One-Hour Frock, a simple 1920s dress.

For that dress, the pattern piece was used for both front and back. However, in order to emulate Marion Cotillard's dress in Midnight In Paris, you would only use it for the front and create another piece for the back minus the side skirt portions.

The dress is simply stitched together and the side wings are gathered and attached to the bottom of the bodice. Construct a simple middy collar and attach decorative trim.

Now, that's an incredibly easy dress, right?

Best Dress In Paris At Any Time Of Day

2011-08-18T09:00:00.003-04:00

Midnight in Paris pleasantly surprised me. I liked it. Now, of course, my last Woody Allen film was Everyone Says I Love You, which was horrid, and even more horrid because it butchered the musical film genre. But this movie, I liked. A lot. Being both an art history major and a fan of the 1920's, I got a lot of the references and characters within the film.

However, one thing pulled me out of the film experience. A little white and red dress worn by the character Adriana (Marion Cotillard) during a few scenes. It was found by Sonia Grande, the film's costume designer. I have always loved 1920s dresses, see here and here. I've even thought about making one of my own by using this booklet, The One-Hour Dress. But this dress made me REALLY want to make one. Just look at it!

It is such a basic design, every article that explains how to make a '20s dress basically describes this dress. The only addition to the design would be the middy collar and trim details. It is a simple shift but with the extra hip fabric gathered on either side. In this case, the top of those gathers are covered with ribbon trim and matching buttons.

Note that the sleeves, even though made of the same fabric as the dress, are not lined. This gives me a look at the fabric weave which seems to be lawn or batiste. What do you think?

I would love to see the trim closer; it could be jacquard ribbon or lace, I can not tell. However, there are many decorative ribbon trims that could be used in this way.

Isn't it a sweet and simple dress?

If I Ever...

2011-08-16T10:00:00.004-04:00

...start another blog, I swear I'm calling it Chasing Some Kids Off My Lawn.

My New Lip Discovery

2011-08-15T15:00:00.002-04:00

I don't wear much makeup. In fact, I wore the most makeup when I was in middle school when I was finally allowed to. I remember wearing purple eyeshadow, a look I keep thinking about reviving every few years. Throughout college I was known for my bright red lipstick, unfortunately, negatively because it was always on plastic beer cups/bottles and on my two front teeth. After college, my lipstick colors started toning down, resulting in me wearing a lot of brownish lipsticks that were just a few shades darker than my skin color, like MAC's X-S*, or Dubonnet. However, I have decided that I need to return to the red lips, and you know, act as if I want to be noticed (because I do!)

Looking through Lucky Magazine last month, I noticed an article about a matte lip gloss with staying power. A few days later, I saw a mention of the same product on a blog I read. So, since Lucky was doing a special deal with the company for 35% off, I ordered it. $7 for two tubes of gloss, a pretty great deal, right? Even at it's regular price of $6 each, it's a great deal.

Here are the details and you might even be able to get the same price. The offer is open until supplies run out.

It's NYX Soft Matte Lip Creme. I bought it in two colors, Amsterdam, an orangey-red and Monte Carlo, a more blue-red shade. It goes on just like they say; applies like a creamy gloss but then immediately turns matte. The coverage is really good and it doesn't require it's own separate gloss like other long wearing lipsticks on the market. Most of the time it is right between sticky and dry, and eventually, if you don't reapply, you may need to pat on some lip balm but that's it. Updated: Most importantly, it barely comes off on your cup and the majority of the color made it intact through a few meals. It also has a very slight scent when it goes on, kind of like cupcake frosting (!) but the smell dissipates quickly.

I like it, I just hope they come out with a few more darker shades for the darker ladies.

Vintage Patterns In Etsy Shop!

2011-08-08T10:00:00.000-04:00

I just entered a few of my vintage patterns into Metamorphpursuit, my shop on Etsy. There are a few skirt patterns, a sheath dress, a perfect little Jackie Kennedy/Oleg Cassini-inspired suit, and a set of women's pajamas from the 1940s. You won't believe the low prices!

Please go and check them out here.

Who Wears Dressy-Shorts?

2011-08-05T17:00:00.002-04:00

Vogue 2883 Style 1902

Ok, I am waffling on the shorts pattern I was going to use. I have the fabric but I can't make the first cut. I want shorts that are full enough to also look like a skirt and I'm just not sure if the fabric or the pattern will get me where I want to be. Above are the sketches of the patterns that I currently have in contention.

Below are some inspiration pics I've picked up on the net.

Rachel Comey "Settler" shorts, ASOS shorts

The "Settler" shorts are nearly identical to the Vogue pattern illustration!

The kind of look I want!

Oh, and please don't refer to these as "skorts"! Skorts were deceptive by having a panel in front disguising the fact that they were really just shorts. I've lived through those when I was a kid and these will NOT be those!

Images: Totokaelo.com, shoppenelopes.com

The BETTER Jo-Ann

2011-08-02T09:00:00.001-04:00

In Richmond, we have two Jo-Ann stores at our disposal. There is the original store, #1479 which is 7 miles from my house and the new store, #2141, which is 14 miles in a different county. Here is this weekend's story:

I cut out the dress from Simplicity 2406 and was about to cut out the shorts from Vogue 2833 when I realized that 1) the dress sash was not included in the fabric requirements but separately listed at the bottom and 2) Since I bought the fabric before I narrowed down the three possible shorts patterns I didn't have enough for this pattern's pair.

I set out for the original Jo-Ann in Westland Shopping Center. Of course, I did go during the Columbus Day sale and it was towards the end of the day but I was still shocked that all of the brown heathered suiting was gone. It was around 4:45 and the store would close at 6. On a whim I decided to try to beat the new store's 6 PM closing time. So I got on the road, hoping to arrive at the shop at least 10 minutes before closing, enough time since I knew exactly what I wanted. I made it there at 5:50 only to see the sign outside said that this Jo-Ann store closes at 7 PM on Sundays!!!

They had an entire bolt of the fabric I needed so I got a yard cut. No problem. Then I looked around the store and saw how many ways the newer store surpassed the original.

For example:

The sad trimming aisle at the original store is two large aisles at this store;

the clearance tables at the new store have actual fabric that was once on the sale floor while the clearance at the original is full of mystery fiber fabrics that I never saw on the sales floor before.

The original store never got that gorgeous silk/cotton voile print that Patty from Snug Bug used in her maxi dress. Yes, that gorgeous fabric came from Jo-Ann?!

They already had the new Simplicity pattern collection (not on the web site yet) in the drawers and the books on the table.

In general, the new store just has more sewing stuff than the other store. Even though half the store is still crafts-related you never get the feeling that the fabric side is only for quilt making and making mysterious fleece objects. There are far more garment fabrics represented.

Oh, and the best thing; they had two copies of Tomoko Nakamichi's Pattern Magic 2, the English version for only $25.00! No special ordering required.

There is no contest, the Midlothian Turnpike Jo-Ann store #2141 is my now my preferred store and is totally worth driving twice the distance to get there.

The Too Small Dilemma

2011-07-28T17:10:00.000-04:00

Well, last weekend I really wanted to start on some projects. I was going to get the easy ones out of the way, the ones where I didn't need to alter the pattern in any way. Well....

New Look 6939

For the longest time I knew I was going to make New Look 6939 in view C out of my Alexander Henry Mocca Chocolate fabric. Unfortunately, my fabric is only large enough for the indecent version of the dress, remember from last week? In order to reach the new modest length I prefer, I will have to add a panel at the bottom of this one too.

So, a piece of the same fabric but not trying to line up the pattern or instead use a contrasting solid strip?

What do you think?
Simplicity 2406 Vogue 1922 (OOP)

In the meantime, I'm going to measure and alter the patterns for the View C dress of Simplicity 2406 (I'm one size larger than the pattern) and the pants of Vogue 1922 where the pattern, bought a decade ago, is now two sizes too small. I have to add an inch to each seam allowance for the pants to fit.

Say It And It Will Be Done...

2011-07-21T16:26:00.007-04:00

I will start on two new projects this weekend, an easy top and an even easier dress. I have already altered the pattern pieces and just need to lay them out and cut.

So now that I have written (said) that on this blog I must be held to it.

Give me h___ if I have no progress to write (talk) about on Monday, ok?
Thanks!

UPDATE: I was a very bad girl. No sewing happened. I thought about it a lot though. Does that count?

Open For Business!

2011-07-18T11:26:00.017-04:00

As you can see to your right, my Etsy shop Metamorphpursuit is back up and open.

I made a new header

(which I made in Powerpoint...who knew?)

and added 20 or so new patterns. In a few days, I will have ALL of the patterns I mean to sell in the shop. While the store is still heavy on 1980-90s patterns I am also including some more recent ones (from the 2000s!!) as well as some from the 1950-60s, courtesy of the Ruth Harvey pattern collection.

I spent this last weekend getting everything organized and ready. So, please check it out.

Metamorphpursuit at Etsy.

The Coordinated Summer Wardrobe

2011-07-14T10:00:00.002-04:00

Over the last few months I did a little bit of fabric shopping. As I've written before, most of my pants no longer fit and I don't own any shorts. So I felt some new fabric was warranted. I used my state tax refund of $50 to buy most of this so I don't feel guilty. I don't, I swear!

Here are the goodies and the projects that these are destined for:

Brown heather linen-like, Daphne batiste (for linings) in papyrus, Prairie Rose Swiss dot, a stone gray polynosic woven, and Alexander Henry in Mocca Chocolate. What I love about these fabrics is that unconsciously I ended up with items that all go together, with the designer print standing alone. They are destined for a top, two dresses, shorts, and pants.

The Swiss dot is destined for a sweet top, perhaps a 2nd Sorbetto? I was only able to get 1 1/2 yards of this, so it is pretty precious. The brown heather woven is the same fabric used on this skirt. I chose it this time to make a pair of shorts, either classic style Vogue 2532 view B, skirt-like Style 1902, or Vogue 2883, a combination of the two.

Luckily, I bought enough of the brown to also make a Simplicity 2406, view C dress, the gray will be pants from Vogue 1922, and the coveted AH print will either be another New Look 6939 or the Vogue 2883, view B dress. I first need to compare the patterns to find the least sack-like one.

Mosaic Multi Dots matte jersey

Of course, there was one fabric I did not buy because it wasn't on sale. I love this Mosaic matte jersey at Jo-Ann. I've been wanting this fabric for over a year now. Next time I have money and it's on sale, IF it is still there, it will be mine!

Knit Cardigan - Simplicity 2560

2011-07-12T09:00:00.001-04:00

Pattern: Simplicity 2560

Pattern Description: Misses' Knit Cardigans

Pattern Sizing: View A in size 14, no alterations

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much. Because this was a knit I used a combination of straight and zigzag stitches on the seams.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the flowing nature of the design.

Fabric Used: Rayon/Spandex knit in Potent Purple from Jo-Ann Fabrics.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Besides lengthening the sleeves as much as the pattern layout would allow (to right below my elbows) I made no other alterations to the pattern. I hemmed and double stitched the sleeve hems to look like a twin-needle. At first I wanted to leave the edges raw, scared of the hem stretching out and rippling. However, I ended up hemming the piece because it just didn't feel finished without that step. It worked out fine, probably because the fabric is three layers at that point. Next time I will add more length to the sleeves even if I have to piece them.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. I highly recommend this pattern, it was an incredibly easy and quick sew.

Conclusion: A very comfortable cardigan that could be made out of even thicker sweater knit for a more substantial feel.

A Small Repair To My Reputation

2011-07-10T10:00:00.001-04:00

This was a little project I did a few weeks ago. I had been wearing this dress all summer even though it was scandalously short, especially for someone who spends a lot of her days bending over and crouching to retrieve documents on low shelves.

Some time ago I had purchased a 1/4 yard of coordinating green linen-like fabric to add a tier to the bottom of the skirt. I will not tell you how long it took before I finally sewed it on or the very short amount of time it took in order to do it. However, I will show you how cute it looks!

New Look 6939

This dress was originally made to be little less than 34" long, it is now comfortably worn at 36.5" by adding a 6" strip of fabric and topstitching the join. So much more comfortable. And so much more decent!

The Easy Quilts of 2011

2011-07-07T09:00:00.001-04:00

Okay, looking through the archives of this blog it seems every year I talk about making a quilt. I now have so many saved tutorials and patterns that it is truly ridiculous.

But one day...one day it will happen.

In the mean time, here are a few I want to share with you. If you make any of them please let me know. Perhaps, I can complete a quilt through you.

The Purl Bee's Zig Zag quilt

Here's a handy tutorial on an easier way to construct the triangle blocks.

And from the Bee Square Blog, here is another great way to make a zig zag quilt without using ANY triangles.

Another design from the Purl Bee blog is this unique Sunny Tied quilt

Sorbetto Tank Top - Colette Patterns

2011-07-02T09:00:00.002-04:00

Pattern: Colette Patterns Sorbetto Top (free!)

Pattern Description: Tank top with center box pleat detail

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 2 -20, I made a size 4 tapering out to an 8 at the hips

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Well, first of all I liked that the pattern was a free download! I also liked the simple shape and the fact that it could be used to draft different variations. It was quick to make, only used 1 1/2 yards of fabric, and needed no fastenings. What I disliked was the alterations I had to make for it to fit me without gaping.

Fabric Used: A 100% cotton Fruit Spots print by Jo-Ann Fabrics and Wrights 1/2" wide single fold bias tape in Stone Blue (an almost perfect match).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I originally made a size 6 at the shoulders and armholes and tapered the pattern to a 10 at the hem but after wearing it once realized it was way too big at the neckline and gaping at the underarms.

I took it apart and recut the pieces in a size 4 at top tapering out to an 8 at the hips. It seems my shoulders and upper chest area were too narrow for the pattern as is so I took in the top of the pleat a bit more to eliminate the gaping there.The length of the upper chest was too long so I cut the shoulder seams to the size 2 on the pattern. Then because the shorter straps caused the underarm seams to rise I scooped out the underarm 1/4" and tapered up. I made the changes to the pattern by tracing each fabric piece with every change I made.

After wearing it again, I think I will scoop out the underarm another 1/4".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I actually have a beautiful Swiss dot print chosen for another one. Now that I have a custom pattern prepared it should be lovely, I might even add wavy cap sleeves as the new fabric calls out for feminine details. I highly recommend preparing a muslin.

Conclusion: A very comfortable top that could possibly be made in an hour (if you're not me!).

More About Sewing Machines

2011-06-29T15:54:00.000-04:00

I GOT IT!!

My sister delivered my mom's old sewing machine, the same one that I learned on many, many, many years ago.

Not my machine but same model.

It is a Kenmore 1560, Model No. 148.15600 and according to this handy machine dating chart, was produced by Sears, Roebuck and Co. in 1976-78.

The sewing machine, which has been in a basement for more than 10 years needs quite a bit of loving care. The metal handles on the now-yellowing plastic carrying case are incredibly rusted and the machine inside is filthy with dust, probably accumulated because this type of machine had to be oiled regularly. I will have to clean this machine thoroughly (and it's case) before I can use it. With all the things I have on my plate right now, that will not be any time soon. However...

I am so glad to know it is still in the family!

Vintage Sewing Machine For Sale!

2011-06-24T09:35:00.025-04:00

UPDATE: This machine has been sold! Thanks, Linda.

A friend is trying to sell his late mother's beauty of a machine. It is an Italian Necchi BU made of cast iron and chrome. This particular model was manufactured between 1948 and 1953. The manual he has is dated 1951. Isn't it lovely?

We believe that all the parts and attachments are still there. His mother kept her sewing materials tidy. There were also some fabulous vintage patterns that he gifted to me and some will eventually show up in my Etsy store when I reopen. In the mean time here is a link to the Ruth Harvey Collection on Flickr.

The machine is currently housed in the beautiful sewing cabinet shown below. I know that you can separate these types of machines and still use them. I wish I had a good closeup of those Art Deco-like drawer handles.

* There is a great review at Zigzaggers.com describing the machine and its functions.

* There is also a Vintage Necchi Yahoo Group here.

I wish I could keep it but I do not have the space and know I would never use it. I have two machines already.

The seller does not have a set price, but will accept the best offer. The machine is here near Richmond, Virginia. I sent out feelers to the local sewing bloggers I know and they were not able to take it. If you are near Virginia or willing to travel here, this might be the machine for you! Just comment on this post and I will contact you. Thanks!

Here's a picture of a similar machine without the cabinet.

Images: Top three are mine, last one from A Sewing Life blog

Sobering Times

2011-06-22T12:00:00.006-04:00

In the last three years,

one friend lost both his brother and mother to cancers and then lost his loyal dog to a sudden illness;

another friend lost both his parents, months apart and is now currently selling, donating, and giving away parts of his childhood home;

another friend is undergoing chemo to banish a cancer;

and a dear friend just recently lost her father, suddenly and unforeseen.

There has been so much pain and loss. My heart and thoughts go out to all of them, may their hearts and lives repair themselves.

Vogue 9785 Scares Me!

2011-06-09T09:00:00.003-04:00

Vogue 9785

The concept is very clever but is anyone else as frightened by these illustrations as I am?!

I think what creeps me out the most is that second skirt there and how the hand from the cape model seems to belong to it, like a little torso-missing person or a tiny women hiding under the skirt like a female Cousin It. Ewww.

Note: Oops, I forgot to explain the above pattern. It is for a garment meant to be worn as a cape and as a skirt. Can you believe it! Like I said, the concept is clever and inventive but it would only work if you use the right fabric.

Image: Pattern available at Out of the Ashes Collectibles.

What I've Been Reading

2011-06-07T17:00:00.002-04:00

Updated: now with mini-reviews

Here are the latest fashion books that I have been reading and thoroughly enjoying!

Pierre Cardin: Fifty Years of Fashion and Design by Elisabeth Längle

This book was very interesting because it has many photographs of his clothes over the years where you see his evolution, real innovation, and sometimes magical flights of fancy that most people would never wear out in public. Especially some of the 1970s menswear!

Claire McCardell: Redefining Modernism by Kohle Yohannan

A great book about this creative woman who advocated clothes that woman could be comfortable in. Her clothes had elegant designs and fine fabrics, but there was no sense of one-upmanship in her clothes. Practical and pretty is a good description, except for the shocking and seductive jersey bathing suits she designed.

A Thousand Days of Magic by Oleg Cassini

I love this book! Though I have to admit the sketches were sometimes more appealing than the finished garments, but I believe that could be attributed to the fact that Jackie Kennedy stipulated to Mr. Cassini that she did not want her clothes to be too body hugging. So, unlike the sketches, the bodices' of the completed garments are not as closely fitted, the waists are not cinched enough, and the fabrics are sometimes stiff looking. However, they are all lovely and this book presents and discusses 108 outfits during her three years in the White House.

Emma Peel!
Swinging Sixties by Christopher Breward, David Gilbert and Jenny Lister

My least favorite of the books, but only because it was not as focused on fashion as it was on the entire sixties experience in youth culture, underground paper media, and music. But a fine book overall.

What Do You Think I Should Do?

2011-05-31T09:00:00.002-04:00

The 54" width of the fabric.

I've had this fabric, "Brunei" by Lee Behren, for over seven years as drapery rolls wrapped in plastic in my closet. I have at least six yards. In fact, I went back later and bought more so I'm not really sure how much I have now. I really loved this fabric and did make two pillows out of it; however, the motivation to make this into a coverlet/quilt like the one below passed years ago.

Detail of fabric middle.

A photo shoot in Living Room* magazine of an Anthropologie comforter.

You see how the Anthropologie coverlet has a distinct color change down the middle just the same as my fabric? I remember feeling that it was a sign and "meant to be". And it was at the time, too bad I took too long to stitch it up. Now I'm not so much into a lot of pink in my bedroom. So I'm trying to think up some way to make this fabric work by combining it with more orange and green fabrics. Perhaps a big border of another patterned fabric? Intersperse strips within the design or create a patchwork like the examples below?

Comforters from The Company Store.

However, that would mean buying more fabric and I already have enough for two coverlets! Can somebody help me with this?! Suggestions are welcome!

It's lovely though, isn't it?

*A great magazines that was canceled after only three issues.

What Was Lost Is Found!

2011-05-29T17:32:00.005-04:00

Have no idea which machine this is.

I just heard from my older sister that she found an old sewing machine in her garage. She thinks it might be our mother's, the same one that we all thought had been sold at a garage sale years ago.

I have no idea which one it is, the Kenmore which I learned on (UPDATE: It IS the Kenmore!!!!!) ~~or the later date Pfaff~~. I probably won't get to see it until later this year or at Christmas but it's nice to know that I can look forward to it coming home with me. When I get more details I'll be sure to let you know.

Now it's time for me to go sew something during this long weekend!

Getting It Done

2011-05-20T12:00:00.000-04:00

Oh, by the way, I received a B and a C in my spring classes, Global Ethics/World Religions and Medieval Art and Architecture. Two down, only three more to go!

My next class, Architecture in Richmond starts next Tuesday and will be two nights a week for the next eight weeks. After that class is done in July, I should be able to see the light at the end of a very long twenty-year* tunnel. The weight is slowly lifting off my shoulders.

*My original graduation date if I had attended full time.

In the Details: More Popular Than I Thought...

2011-05-18T09:00:00.002-04:00

McCall's 3087, Advance 5062

Remember this first pattern from this post? It was also featured here on the Male Pattern Boldness blog and Noile showed a Japanese version made out of a knit. Man, it was just raining men's pullover shirts then.

Look at that one on the right. This pattern didn't show up on my radar until later, but it should not be forgotten. Just look at that hybrid cowboy/medical internist flair! Oh, and the puffy gathered cuffs! Ooh wee, that's stylin'!

So guess how surprised I was to find that apparently this style was considered unisex and just as popular with the ladies. Behold:

McCall's 3126

So close, even down to the red vertical stripes and matching pocket. No doubt this is the same design, same company, and from the look of the package, probably the same year.

Advance 6934

Am I mistaken but doesn't that red version look kind of hot? Maybe it's the pairing with black, the belt, the bangles, or the popped-up collar but that would look right at home on Leslie Caron. The blue one; however, gives off a nautical vibe, right?

Vogue 8449

Same design but this one looks sporty, note how the back views look more like rain slickers. Also check out the even larger collar and the two hip pockets on the striped version. I have to admit I'm really loving the chartreuse one with the gathered sleeves.

Images: Vintage Patterns Wiki

Free Vintage Sewing Tutorials

2011-05-16T11:00:00.007-04:00

*This post has been in draft form for about six months now. Only after seeing Vintage Notions by Amy Barickman in the bookstore did I realize I never published this and that someone besides me might be interested in what I found. So...

Once I found a document on Sewing Vintage's website with instructions on how to draft your own blouse from the 1930s I started to wonder if more of these pamphlets or the directions sometimes detailed in magazines could be found on the web for simple projects like these. Well, they could! These articles provide instruction on creating your own pattern with measurements, a ruler, and tracing paper, though I use butcher paper instead. To save you some trouble, here are the ones that I was able to find: If you know of others, please let me know! Enjoy!

Australian Home Journal, January 1926 1926 beach wrap/cape dropped waist tea frock with flared skirt ladies "jumper" (tunic) with middy collar

Not only that but you can see complete issues (April 1 1949 - Sept 1 1952) of the Australian Home Journal on the Internet Archive here. Bizarre vintage ads, questionable recipes and knitting patterns included.

Woman's Weekly, June 27, 1936 A simple tea frock with cut-on (Magyar) sleeves and an inverted pleat in the skirt, and variations

Fashion Service magazine, August 1931 The Magic Bias slip

Draping and Designing With Scissors and Cloth, a WIDIS (Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences) publication, Simple draping instructions for a dress

Fashion Service Magazine, September 1928 A fairy-like dance dress

Source: Christine’s Costume page; Dressmaking Research

Beware, Politics

2011-05-11T11:26:00.006-04:00

I normally don't talk about anything that could be considered controversial on my blog. I hope you don't mind.

For my Global Ethics and World Religions class I wrote my final paper on morality. We had to find a situation (abortion, child labor, privacy laws, etc.) and deem it either immoral or moral and then in the same paper debate it from the other side of the issue. I chose for my paper, Same-Sex Marriage is Moral. This is something very important for me, since I have known many long-term (I'm talking 15 years+) homosexual couples. Well, I finished the paper last week and got a 93 on it.

Then today I just saw this wedding story on the New York Times website of a male couple, together 25 years, who traveled around the country and held wedding ceremonies in all of the states that allow same-sex unions. Yes, all six* of them.

Oh, and perhaps to be cheeky, they staged a guerrilla wedding in California, a state that once did but now doesn't allow them.

Read the story here.

*Connecticut, Iowa, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Vermont, and the District of Columbia, in case you wanted to know.

2011-05-10T09:00:00.000-04:00

Some pretty for today:

A close-up detail of Alabama Chanin's "Maggie" dress and it's amazing applique technique. See more of the dress here.

What I'm Up To Now

2011-05-04T09:00:00.005-04:00

Sorry, I don't have time to write any meaty posts (it's the last two weeks of the semester and I have two papers and two exams to do) so instead you're going to get a list of what I'm currently doing and what I'm gearing up to do.

Received some vintage patterns from a friend's late mothers' stash and they are almost my size. They include 1950s Simplicity, Advance, and several mail order patterns still factory folded and in their mailers (Marian Martin, Anne Adams, etc.) Of course, I'll do some posts on them after I get the rest of them scanned. The ones above are my favorites. Here's another that I received, Simplicity 4697, and I've seen it being sold for $30 and up.

Bought supplies to make some necklaces similar to the Kristina Klarin ones that I wrote about. I now have wooden beads and blocks and just need to paint them. Hopefully I can come up with luscious color formulas and combinations like she did.

Working on another tester dress pattern that I'm really looking forward to wearing before it gets too hot. The fabric is so nice but it is more suitable to a mild spring or mid-fall. I already pictured how I'm going to style it and that will involve a lavender enameled flower brooch. So, now I have to find that brooch because it only exists in my imagination right now. If you have any ideas, let me know, ok?

Writing more fashion history posts for the Colette Patterns blog (soon to be re-launched as The Coletterie). I am currently researching 1960s style and miniskirts!

I now have a good collection of projects already matched with fabric for at least five articles of clothing to make over this summer...hopefully to be worn this summer. I better get on it!

Oh, and taking a summer semester class on Richmond Architecture, but luckily, I have a few weeks rest before it starts.

Fashion In Film: The Costumes of South Riding

2011-05-02T13:00:00.004-04:00

After the sumptuousness of Upstairs and the practicality of the Downstairs costumes, BBC One and Masterpiece Theater Classics is now sharing with us a wardrobe somewhere in between; that of a school headmistress in fictional South Riding, Yorkshire in 1935. Which just happens to be my favorite period in clothing! I'll not only be watching it for the clothes but also because the drama, based on the novel South Riding by Winifred Holtby, has been adapted by the wonderful Andrew Davies (Sense & Sensibility, Little Dorrit, Bleak House.)

The costumes are by Stephanie Collie and include a lot of lovely details from the 1920-30s.

See this link for a video on the costumes.

I absolutely adore this delicate blouse (also seen later in teal) I love the barely-attached split sleeves and the diagonal tucks taken in the bodice front. I assume the top is closed by buttons in the back but I'll have to wait to see the film to be sure.

Check out the pieced fabric detail with chevron bars at the end of the lapels.

This dress could be in either a textured velvet or a silk faille, again, I'll have to see it in action to determine which. I love what looks like diamante clips at the shoulders.

Here's another view of that lovely blouse!

Here is the same blouse in a teal or aquamarine blue. You can see the details more clearly. I would love to have multiples of this blouse in my wardrobe. The blouse is technically a raglan cap-sleeve shell but the sleeves are not fully sewn and are only stitched halfway down, as split sleeves. The neckline is finished with self bias binding and a small self-faced rectangle is twisted and tacked to the center neck to form a faux-bow.

New York 2766

Amazingly, on the first page of results for Google search "1930s blouse" I found a vintage pattern, New York 2766 that would closely approximate this blouse. How you can find a copy is another thing, but the sketch does help to see what details you are looking for.

The series started May 1 and will run the next two Sundays, the 8th and 15th of May. Enjoy! First episode can be seen here!!

Images: BBC, screen caps from The Butterfly Balcony

The Color Side of Necklaces

2011-04-22T17:00:00.006-04:00

The other side of the coin is one also needs to bring color into the wardrobe in other ways. Why not try a colorful necklace? Perhaps something fun and whimsical?

Though these necklaces are metallic, the color of these Shabd fabric prints at Totokaelo lighten the mood and celebrate the great weather coming to us here on the East Coast of the U.S. You won't find fabric like that at Jo-Anns though. So a colorful piece around your neck may be the best way to go.

Similar ones to these are priced as $40 and $100.

First up, are these gorgeous wooden enameled bead necklaces. Unfortunately, these two specific Kristina Klarin necklaces are no longer available but I love her style (check out her personal blog here). They set me off on another journey looking for something similar and that is how I found the necklace below offered by The Vamoose.

Serpentine bead & metal necklace, $51.27 USD

However, these types of designs could be easy to duplicate, especially if using cord instead of chain, you just need to purchase some wooden balls, some cool tester pots of paint, some silk cord and use this tutorial provided by Jenny Gordy at Wikstenmade.

Another why to bring in color is to incorporate floral images such as these by new-to-me company, Ruche:

Charms of the Garden, $45, Rustic Romance, $40.

I think I've already found my colored necklace. It's only $40 dollars so I will probably get it as an "I survived another semester of college" gift in a few weeks after I actually survived. Here are some pics from the amazing site where I found it, Elk Accessories in Australia:

Fan necklaces, long and short, $30-40.

Image sources: totokaelo.com. Kristina Klarin images via Jennskistudio; The Vamoose, Ruche, Elk Accessories

My Next Dress

2011-04-19T10:47:00.009-04:00

Okay, it's been quiet on the sewing front. I'm very disappointed because I had some lovely things in mind. I can't believe I haven't attempted to sew since that hiccup in February with the unfinished corduroy skirt (now scheduled for a fall completion). I also kept meaning to make my Simplicity 2560 cardigan out of a fuchsia knit I bought but the motivation is just not there.

Well, I now have a new pattern for a slim column of a spring dress and I was so expecting to find some colorful spring fabrics to make it. However, a trip to Hancock Fabrics, Jo-Anns, and even Hobby Lobby left me cold. There was a great turquoise from the new Lisette fabric line but I wanted a fabric that had more drape.

Guess what? I ended up with a wonderful fabric that totally goes against what I've been posting lately. I bought BLACK fabric!

Now, it is technically black and white but from a distance it will read black. A cotton, polyester, and Lycra mix, it has a very nice drapy hand. But when I picked it up I realized that the pattern and color would be great for job interviews and it might also look killer with my black and gray duster coat when it finally gets finished. In fact, this dress might motivate me to start on that!

So, wish me luck, I hope to have this done by the first week of May.

Yeah. I said it.

Give Me More Color!!!

2011-04-14T09:00:00.000-04:00

Zara April 2011

Max Mara Spring 2011

Philip Lim Oscar de la Renta

DKNY

Akris Punto Spring 2011

Alberta Ferretti Fall 2011

Another Look At Statement Necklaces

2011-04-12T12:15:00.004-04:00

OK, I'm officially obsessed now. I can't stop searching for necklaces! So here are some more that I've found and there will probably be even more. I have also found some pretty fabulous jewelry tutorials too if I decide to save my money afterall.

These first three pictures (from Talbots and Totokaelo) show you how a great necklace (even worn without earrings) can make a simple outfit look polished and finished. Don't you agree?

See how a statement necklace pumps up even the most basic of garments?

Samma Extended Study in Space, $288

This one is a little over the top (and out of my price range!), but it is adjustable and can change shape, either massed into a tinier shape or furled out like eagles wings, as seen here.

Labana necklace, $48; Garan necklace, $58.

Agnes necklace, $44; Takia necklace, $54.

Believe it or not but the pieces above are all from maligned clothing manufacturer, Chico's. Note: In some otherwise fussy stores you may have to look through the overly designed to find the simpler designs but it can be worth it.

Modern abstract brass necklace, $125.

Is this not fabulous?! It should be, it's from online store Slap Me Fabulous.

Geometric Diamond Bib necklace (1036N), $96.

Geometric Pendant Necklace (1038N), $52. Another possibility.

This store, Brodie Hall Jewelry came up in a Google image search after about an hour and I am in love! Isn't that last necklace almost perfect?

Any ideas which one from this or the other post I should buy? Please help.

Sources (listed in order): Talbots.com (1), Totokaelo (3), Chico's (4), Slap Me Fabulous (1), Brodie Hall Jewelry (4)

100 Followers!!!

2011-04-12T12:11:00.006-04:00

WOW, I just made 100 followers!

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Papercut Patterns in NZ

2011-04-08T16:00:00.003-04:00

1006 Watson Jacket, $27.

I spent a little time yesterday discovering some new sewing blogs. You know how it is when your regular blogs are not as prolific as they once were and you have read all their archived projects. You need new stuff, like a drug. Discovering new blogs gives you instant content and of course there are THEIR archives, which are all New To You.

Well, a few days ago when I was checking out Dixie DIY's adorable blog I found an old post of hers that mentioned an independant pattern company I hadn't heard about, Papercut Patterns out of New Zealand. This company is one that needs to be talked about. It was founded by Katie Brown and I love that she presents her patterns as seasonal collections. Right now she has two collections and the styles are great. Besides the very cool designs the company is also dedicated to sustainability and their goal to use 100% recycled and recyclable products. Just check out their packaging!

The pattern creates its own hanger for placing it right alongside your own personally drafted oaktag patterns. However, the pattern prices are a bit high even before including the cost of shipping ($10) to the U.S. The only other drawback I see is that the patterns are only sold in individual sizes, not multi-size packs. Here are a few of her looks:

1008 Milano Cape, $27.

1007 Pleated Pant, $23.

1002 Miss Chalmers Skirt, $19.

Images: Papercut Patterns

The Statement Necklace

2011-04-07T15:00:00.001-04:00

Note: I just received an AdSense check from Google and have a bit of profit in my Etsy shop, so I'm thinking of treating myself to something nice. Otherwise, I would not be looking at jewelry. Isn't that sad but it's just not a necessity.

Lodge, $98.

I suddenly had a desire to buy myself some jewelry, especially a statement necklace, much like the ones I admire all the time at Totokaelo, all metal but simple in style. Something that would make a simple T and shorts combo look "artist" cool.

Copper Ladder, $40.

This feeling all came after I saw some old posts on Simple Lovely showing the jewelry that the author Joslyn owns. She is almost always wearing some fabulous necklace to go with her very cool clothes. This time, the necklace was by Laura Lombardi via the Pretty Mommy site. Checking out her items available there, her namesake site, and her Etsy shop these are the ones I just can't stop thinking about:

Spiked Fringe, $70. A real possibility

Mida , $110. Triangle Cascade , $115.

Remigial, $200.

Such a favorite, but oh...the price.

So an actual Lombardi is still a possibility because she does have some affordable pieces, but I still went searching the Internets for similar pieces and other artists who use these materials.

Here are two that I found:

New Grid by Nomoi Koru, $39. Tribal Tubular, $29 on sale!

I should snatch this last one up now, right? Before I regret it like I regret missing out on this gem?

Sources (in order): Pretty Mommy, Laura Lombardi.com, Laura Lombardi at Etsy, Nomoikoru at Etsy, Banana Republic.com

What I've Always Wanted...

2011-04-04T09:00:00.000-04:00

but didn't know I did.

It is champagne-colored silk organza covered with a mix of faux pearls, rhinestones, and silver beads. It is lined in matching silk organza and closes with a separating zipper. However, I would probably wear it as a dress. And believe it or not, it would actually fit me, something I rarely see when I look at vintage nowadays.

More details and enlarged pictures at Vintage Textile.

Beaded silk organza evening coat, late 1950s, $1,250.

What I'm Reading Now...

2011-03-31T12:56:00.007-04:00

Fashion: The Century of the Designer, 1900-1999 by Charlotte Seeling

In a Glamorous Fashion: The Fabulous Years of Hollywood Fashion Design by W. Robert La Vine

Couture: an Illustrated History of the Great Paris Designers and Their Creations by Ruth Lynam

Adrian: Silver Screen to Custom Label by Christian Esquevin

Lucien Lelong by Jacqueline Demornex

Luckily, my college has a fashion school, which means that the university library has a more than decent collection of books on fashion. They have a paucity of the latest books, but they have older ones (pre-1990) galore.

My favorite of the five is the first book about fashion designers from the years 1900 to 1999. Not only does the book examine the designers known in each decade but it also contains pieces on the general look, cosmetics, and specific fads worn during each. There is even a day-in-the-life of a model in the early 1960s.

I only regret I didn't have access to the Adrian book when writing his profile for my series at Colette, but I can't wait to go back for more books. I've already searched the card catalog online and chosen my wish list. For some reason, all the good ones have been checked out by fashion majors! The nerve! ; )

Some Pretty Pretty For the Weekend

2011-03-25T17:02:00.005-04:00

Jean Patou creation, 1957.

Yup, I'm in the middle of researching and sourcing photos for more fashion designer profiles for Colette Pattern's blog. I'm finally moving on from the 1940s to the 1960s. Wait and see.

Tonal Colors

2011-03-21T09:00:00.001-04:00

Again, a look I'm really loving...no black or nearly no black color combinations in clothing. As a girl who has been wearing black forever, I really think as I get older I want to bring more color into my wardrobe. I already have it all over my home, so why not? These examples are from APiece Apart.

Update: Today I am wearing a chocolate brown skirt, royal purple turtleneck, mossy green jacket and the only black I'm wearing are my tall boots. Hurrah!

Fall/Winter 2009

Spring/Summer 2010

Fall 2011 (my fave!)

The Current Soundtrack To My Life...

2011-03-15T09:07:00.000-04:00

has been provided by Florence & the Machine.

Heavy In Your Arms

Also check out, Dog Days, Blinding, Drumming Song, Cosmic Love, Rabbit Heart, and the first song I ever heard, My Boy Builds Coffins (acapella version).

Home Sick

2011-03-09T17:34:00.002-05:00

But at least there was a little treat. A showing of "Cover Girl" with Gene Kelly and Rita Hayworth on regular TV, featuring Eve Arden (looking fabulous!) and gowns by Travis Banton!!

I was still miserable, but the eye candy was appreciated. It could have been an entire afternoon of Real Housewives of New Jersey!

Oh So Tired...

2011-03-02T09:00:00.000-05:00

Reason: Mid terms are next week!

So, here's some pretty pictures to look at while I get myself together and then recover.

Diane von Furstenberg Pre-Fall 2011

Diane von Furstenberg Fall 2011

I love these colors and these color combinations so much. I even like the colored knee-highs peeking out above the boots. Even though they are for fall clothes, they definitely inspire me for all the seasons yet to come.

See ya in a bit!

Inspiration For Even More Clothes

2011-02-11T17:00:00.004-05:00

From Talbot's of all places!

Remember my gray gathered skirt? Well, I couldn't handle that elastic waist, the skirt was too full and the gathering of all that fabric made my waist look the same size as my hips. So I took the elastic out and was going to construct a waistband for it. However, now I think arranging the skirt into big tucks like these may be the way to handle all that mass.

This picture is the one that caught my eye. I have already made two shirts very similar to this so I think I'll make a few more with this neck detail instead of the gathered neckline. I also love the jewel-like color...I need more color in my wardrobe, at least up around my face.

I love this outfit completely, especially the chunky necklace (also seen above)! Next time I find a great patterned, medium-weight fabric I will try to make this. Look familiar? Yes, I will use my still unused coat pattern but of course that first one still needs to be made.

Of course, all of these ideas are for AFTER I finish the outfits in this post, my 2010-2011 wardrobe.

Images: Talbots.com

Oolong Dress - Colette Patterns #1008

2011-02-10T11:38:00.004-05:00

Pattern Description: A back-buttoned overblouse with cut-on sleeves and shaping darts at front neck.

Pattern Sizing: Size 14 (Bust = 34", Waist = 26")

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very. Especially after I decided to not do the bound buttonholes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the two set of darts in the front of the bodice. There are two at the collarbone which control the shape of the top above the bust and two that shape the under bust. They are really flattering. The instructions also suggested cutting your own bias binding for the sleeve hems. That worked out really well, I love how it looks since you can see the inside of the arms while wearing it.

Fabric Used: A lovely red cotton twill.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I applied fusible knit interfacing to the front neckline and on the back facings. I made the right decision in picking a knit interfacing instead of one for wovens because it adhered really well and didn't change the drape of the fabric.

Would you sew it again? I hope so, it very cute with just the right retro flavor. I would probably make any others with a button and loop closure instead of buttons though for an easy slip-on type of top.

Would you recommend it to others? Yes, it's very flattering and easy. What more could you want?!

Conclusion: A great top, even though I will make any others with a button and loop closure instead of buttons down the back. Now, I want to make the coordinating jacket too!

Flora, Food, and Fantastic Oolong!

2011-02-08T09:00:00.002-05:00

My birthday flowers! Along with the beautiful lilies, daises and crysanthemums from a dear friend, my boss ordered a truly delicious gluten-free pumpkin cake with cream cheese frosting from Ellwood Thompson. A huge hunk of it is now in my freezer and I am so tempted to defrost it already!

But, what do you say? Did I finish the dress? Well...

YES, I DID!!!

Worn with brown fishnets and my superstar brown suede 1940's-inspired shoes.
Yes, those are criss-crossed ankle straps!

Detail shot.

Moody film-noir shot.

New Skirt - Maybe?

2011-02-07T09:00:00.003-05:00

I don't know what happened. I made the skirt with the same pattern as the A-line Built By Wendy one in black corduroy. I only tapered the bottom in, I did nothing to the waist or hip area. So, why when I tried it on did it not fit? And no it's not because I gained weight. I can still wear the other skirt; however, when I laid the new one on top of the old one it was almost 1 1/2 inches smaller! How?!

I used the same pattern. Now, this piece of corduroy is twice as thick and I did underline it (with lining material) but still? That's a big difference that can't be because of fabric thickness, right?

I will try to decrease the darts and the side seams but I just don't know if that will be enough. I was so excited about this one. Again, it was corduroy that I've had in my stash for years, I didn't think I had enough but I made it fit on the pieces I had. The lining material along with the zipper was also in the stash, so I didn't spend any money on it. However, I'll still be really disappointed if this doesn't work out.

UPDATE:
I finally discovered what the fitting problem was. When I started tapering the skirt for a straight silhouette instead of an A-line, unfortunately, I had included the widest point of the skirt in the tapering, therefore it's too small just because of that inch-long area I forgot to take into consideration. Ugh!

Another Year Older...

2011-02-03T11:16:00.010-05:00

It is my birthday today! And what a day it's going to be...a full day at work and then a three-hour class on Medieval Art & Architecture. Do I know how to party or what?

No, I am not wearing my Colette Oolong dress today but the goal is for tomorrow! I finished the lining hem a day ago and am attempting the dress hem tonight. However, because the dress is bias there was a lot of distortion and the front of the dress is a full 1 1/2 inches longer than the back!

My obstacle is that I don't have a dress form or someone to mark the hem for me. I had planned on buying one of these but it won't help me tonight. I think I will do a little creative cutting and put in a temporary basted hem just so I can wear it now and of course photograph it. I will be a bit dressed up for casual Friday but that's the way I roll!

I know this dress has taken a long time to finish (start date: October 2009!) and its completion has missed a lot of my self-imposed deadlines, but it WILL make this one. In addition to being finished on my birthday I had also proposed that it be finished in time for Chinese Lunar New Year, since I had missed two New Years opportunities. Luckily, it will and it might also help that the dress is red, which I heard stands for prosperity.

Come on, prosperity!

By the way, a floral delivery place just called and they have a delivery for me! I have no idea who it could be from but my day just got 50% better.

Travis Banton Visits Colette

2011-02-02T09:34:00.006-05:00

Claudette Colbert in Travis Banton

This month at Colette Patterns I get to write about my favorite subject: Hollywood costume designers of the 1930-50s. Designers such as Adrian, Orry-Kelly, Travilla, and new ones I've just been made aware of. Please check out my columns each Wednesday at the Colette Patterns blog.

First up is Travis Banton, head costume designer at Paramount Pictures who was responsible for the "Joan Crawford Look".* The shoulder pads and elegant long look of the gowns even started to effect what the average woman was wearing too. Here are just a few pictures that I had to leave out of the profile because of space.

His first costume picture, 1925's Dressmaker from Paris.

Joel McCrea and Kay Francis in Girls About Town (1931).

*Now remember, he did the clothes NOT the hideous makeup she started to wear in her later years in film.

Images: Silver Screen Modiste and Arts Meme

Vogue Special Design S-4305

2011-02-01T09:00:00.001-05:00

Months ago I bought something decadent and uncalled for. I bought a pattern that isn't even in my size for an occasion it may never be worn to. But I've been obsessed with it for months and the fact that it was still there since summer just meant it was supposed to be mine. Right?

Vogue Special Design S4305

I found it at Halcyon, a local vintage store, during the summer and amazingly, it was still there in December when I had a little cash from some Etsy sales*.

There once was an entry on the Vintage Pattern Wiki but it's since been removed, so here is a scan of my pristine original...complete with the original Vogue Special Design label that Vogue used to supply to their home sewers! Can you believe it?!

Yes, this dress may be made for other occasions but my first thought is in white voile, lightly patterned cotton lawn, organdy, or dotted Swiss. Something light as cotton candy and with a feeling very similar to this:

or to these:

Can't you just see it? And believe it or not this dress only has four pattern pieces! Here's a better look at the design:

The ideal situation is that this dress would be graded up two sizes and sewn not by me but a professional seamstress. Otherwise, I would freak out on it having to be perfect and that would stress me out.

This pattern is from 1952, when Vogue Pattern Service was still a part of Conde Nast Publications Inc, the publisher of Vogue fashion magazine. I would love to find a photographic spread of this dress from its pages!

*That and AdSense revenue is the only money I am allowed to use for fun.

Oolong Dress - Colette Patterns #1008 - Part 4!

2011-01-28T09:00:00.001-05:00

To see earlier updates read Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3.

I wasn't going to post another update but after seeing just how incredible this dress looks with the neckline finally stitched, I just couldn't keep these in-progress pictures away from you.

OUTSIDE:

Well, as you can see the grading worked! The neckline came out gorgeous. Look how neat and professional it all looks? Now, this isn't personal bragging, no, the way it looks is a testament to Sarai's design.

INSIDE:

Check out the inside of this dress! The rear neck facing sets off the back nicely. Because it is stitched on top of the lining there is no worry about the facing ever flipping out.

Surprisingly, my favorite part of this dress is now the part I was most worried about in the last update...the front facing.

I LOVE the facing that Sarai developed for this dress. So much, in fact, I wish I could wear the dress inside out because of how cool it looks and because the colors are amazing together. Another ice blue and winter red dress is definitely on my wish list now. I am seriously tempted to make a dress where this color combination and that neckline detail would be seen on purpose. Perhaps I'll attempt it with the Chantilly, my next favorite Colette Patterns dress.

I kind of wish the sleeves were also going to be lined in blue so that the interior of the dress would be as impeccably finished as it is on the outside. However, I think I may have a fix for that.

TEASER:

Stitch Magazine!

2011-01-26T09:00:00.001-05:00

Have you seen the new Winter/Spring issue of Stitch magazine?

It's huge! The cover caught my eye immediately because of the cover project, the Felt Confetti Pillow decorated with felt circles and designed by Lisa Cox. Well, this design looked amazingly like my new PJs. Maybe I'll have to make a pillow to go with them or perhaps just a bag to take them in when I travel. How quaint would that be?

The instructions for the pillow (very easy!) can be found here, but you should still check out the whole issue. It is the Techniques issue, which means it covers a lot of sewing techniques that you might want to know about.

Yes, Imma Tease...

2011-01-25T13:48:00.003-05:00

Look what I did this weekend!

More details to come later this week...