Organic Cotton Plus Culottes - Butterick 6178

Pattern: Butterick 6178 (2016)

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted cropped culottes with waistband, side pockets, and back zipper.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes (14-16-18-20-22) I ultimately chose to make a size 18 according to my measurements.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, this pattern is so simple, three pieces, four darts, and a zipper.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the simplicity of the flat front and the sleekness of the pant style, which was needed for the length to work.

Fabric Used: 100% organic cotton 7 oz. twill from Organic Cotton Plus* in Nutmeg 160180T-NUT, Coats & Clark 7" zipper in Cloister Brown 56B, and Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Clove #590.

[This fabric was sent to me by Organic Cotton Plus and has a great feel. I pre-washed it in warm water and while it grew softer it still had a durability and thickness much like denim and would probably make a great pair of jeans or a jacket. However, the fabric arrived off grain and needed correction. More about this fabric and my solution can be found here on my blog.]

Before and After

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Even though I had checked the finished garment measurements, still wary of the fit, I cut this out in size 20. I basted the pants together on the inside seams and pinned the side seams. I tried them on and of course realized I should have just cut my size! Well, better to be safe than sorry. Hmmmm....

I started the habit of thread tracing all of my darts after marking with chalk for accuracy. It's much easier to stitch over thread than a blurry chalk outline. It also works if I find myself putting aside a project for a day or two (or a week!)

Next came the centered zipper and pocket insertion. There was a point when the instructions say to press all of the pocket seam allowances the same way where I found that just changing the direction of one seam allowed the whole pocket to lay flatter.

There was a part of the instructions I changed. When stitching the crotch seam, they want you to stitch the seam at 5/8" and then again 1/4" away. Because of where this seam sits I felt that was too far away, as the seam wouldn't lay right, so I went back and stitched at 7/8", notched into the seam allowance and then removed the 1/4" stitching.

I easily attached the waistband but unfortunately, there were diagonal lines radiating from the crotch towards the lower hip AND lines from the middle of the waistband out to the mid-hip. I was positively confused about a solution. But I'm not the only one, because I noticed it in photos from other reviews of the pattern.

Trying to figure out the problem, I tried altering the darts by deepening and lengthening the ones in front which eliminated most of the fullness in that area. I extended (by a smaller amount) the back darts too.

The only thing left to do was determine the best possible length. I chose to copy the look from the inspiration photo below and go about four inches above my ankles, which I found looked good with both flats and 2" - 3" heels.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I will probably try another similar pattern in my stash. Unfortunately, the front crotch of this pant is too shallow and I think that was what made the pattern set funny on my body.



Conclusion: This project was fast tracked up my sewing queue when Organic Cotton Plus contacted me for a review; however, I've wanted to make this pattern since seeing Lisa's gorgeous version (above) on the Tessutti blog.

*Though the fabric was provided free in exchange for a review, all opinions are my own. Full review of the fabric can be found here.