10. Fall Faux Wrap Dress - Simplicity 5190

Pattern: Simplicity 5190 (2004)

Pattern Description: Loose pullover dress with neckline bands, 3/4 length flared sleeves, and attached side sash.

Pattern Sizing: Size PP (12,14,16,18) I made a 14 for shoulders and armscye but a size 16 for all measurements below b/c scared that the hips would not be wide enough.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Not quite, but this was my fault. To make the dress fit on my fabric I cut two inches off of the pattern when I needed to add length to the original hem. Otherwise, yes.



Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes; however, manipulating around the v-neck with the neckline bands was frustrating. I had to take out the stitching many times to get it right. You have to really clip into that V for it to lay down. I chose to hand-baste around the entire neckline before edgestitching and topstitching.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the relaxed look and the 3/4 length flared sleeves. The dress with the low waist and loose sash had a 1930s feel. Unfortunately, the skirt needed to be six inches longer.
 
Fabric Used: Orange, mustard, taupe, khaki green, and white 58/60" floral pumpkin blossom peachskin from Jo-ann on sale for $4.99 per yard, Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing, and neutral colored thread.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made? This fabric was not originally meant for this pattern so I did not have enough for the dress as pictured. I measured the pattern against one of my dresses and decided I could eliminate two inches from the hem. This was a mistake, the dress would look better at a 1930s mid-calf length. It needed the length. Using fusible knit interfacing on the neck bands worked well, it gave structure but was still flexible. Even after the pre-shrinking in hot water, it still made a durable bond. I had a bit of a trial sewing the band to the dress because my machine skipped stitches. I tried three times (one was just basting) before I took it all out and went to bed. You won't believe how many times I ended up sewing along that same stitching line!

I used a different layout (making sure that the grainline stayed the same) and pieced the sash in three pieces instead of two so I could fit everything on the fabric. Unknowingly, I sewed a larger seam allowance on the sash (5/8") than required (1/2") but it made no discernible difference to the final product.

The worst thing about the fabric I used was that it frayed easily so all seam allowances had to be either folded over and stitched or stitched and then pinked.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I like the dress, but will not make it again. With this particular fabric print all of the details around the neckline are lost! It should look like a wrap dress but you can not make out the topstitched neckbands. It looks like a v-neck dress with a sash. I still would recommend the pattern; however, use a smaller bodice than the measurements say and take care not to use a dense print like I did.

Conclusion: I received a lot of compliments on the dress at the holidays. However, for a dress I was only slightly excited about making in the first place, I ended up being underwhelmed. Maybe the frustration with the neckline and the deadline sewing took a bit out of me and I'll eventually come around to liking it. 

UPDATE: I wore it with my green J. Crew jacket and thought it looked cute. So I might take in the bodice, curve in the waist some, and close up and gather the sleeves (like this top).