In the Details: Skirt Interest and Embellishments

Here's another post on my favorite pattern details and this one focused on the many ways a skirt can be adapted and made more interesting.

Advance 113

The distinctive mini-godets of this skirt intrigued me.

Butterick 7348

This skirt uses fabric piecing to add interest to the ubiquitous 50s full skirt by adding curved side hip panels. I wonder what would happen if a stiff fabric underlined those panels, would it add lift similar to crinoline?

Butterick 6946

More of the same in this one with separate side tiers combined with gathers.

Simplicity 2876

A lovely front draped skirt incorporates structural pockets for functionality and style.

Simplicity 8384

A lovely trumpet skirt.

Vogue S-4846

A delightfully dated gathered bubble hem finishes this elegant cocktail dress.

A combination of pleated horizontal tiers and a gathered back train detail makes up this frock that seems perfect with a veiled hat and white gloves.

In the Details: Put Your Collar to Work

You say you want to accessorize more, but don't know how? You want to start wearing scarves but don't know what to do with them? Well, these clever vintage patterns made it so easy. The options were already built in. I find so much inspiration in vintage patterns. Perhaps you could apply some of these details or ideas to your current makes?

Simplicity 8462

This one includes a buttoned loop to secure the scarf and eliminates the worry about losing it in the wind. What it would look like empty though, I do not know. Also, doesn't blond flip girl look like she's wearing a wig?


Patt-o-Rama 1398

The purpose of this collar is even more obvious by incorporating an asymmetrical strap to secure a contrasting scarf. Because of the top-stitching detail this one could even work without the scarf. If you look real close you can see that Dacron polyester was a suggested fabric. Um, no.

McCall's 6521

This is an elegant suit and I love how the coordinating scarf is self-wrangled by possessing a buttonhole meant to accommodate the button on the jacket. There would be no need for constant adjustments.

Vogue 5486

I would LOVE a reissue of this one, that draped and twisted collar is so unique. The option of color-blocking adds an additional unexpected design detail. The wide scooped neckline of view C also offers a looser interpretation of the ubiquitous bow-tied blouse.

Simplicity 5679

Here is a neck-tie influenced detail that adds functionality to the design by making a tie catcher part of the dress.

Pictorial Review 8983

This last one is amazing! I love the versatility of the attached scarf drape. Both dresses are the same design, the only differences are in the color of the scarves and where they were positioned; one arranged as a front detail and the other as a dramatic cape-like detail. Fancy!

In The Details: All the Caped Wonders

And now, some light distraction...

Capes are an item of clothing that has always been in the fashion sphere. They began as practical cloaks to protect from wind, rain and other elements and have now evolved to a true fashion accessory, not really worn to stave off the weather, sometimes just to enhance an outfit, and above all, be cute.

Vogue 9479

I saw this gorgeous cape pattern and I thought it was truly amazing looking. I love how the side front arm openings are disguised as a seam detail that would only be noticed when an arm is thrust through. What a stylish way to deal with a practical function.

Here it is again on a recent Fendi coat with a similar armhole hidden in the seam detail that also involves a tuck secured at the shoulder that hides the opening inside the resulting pleat. This picture was from the July 2010 issue of Vogue Italia.

McCall's 9028

This double-breasted beauty from McCall's uses the more commonly seen welt pocket treatment for the armholes.

Simplicity 8353

A truly funky cape for the mod chick of style. Included in this ensemble pattern, this cape has rounded edges, decorative edging and reversibility, check out that faux fur or fleece lining on the plaid one. Loving the goldenrod vest and skirt outfit on the right with the thick ribbed turtleneck. Check how the pleated flares, knee socks, loafers, and go-go boots on the left truly catch the era. This pattern is easily available on Etsy.

Vogue 7451

This pattern provides a more formal adult version of the cape. This one provides you with angled exterior patch pockets for keys or lipstick and the raised collar is a bit smaller. This one, when made to floor length would be perfect for evening.

Simplicity 7858

Another elegant formal cape with high collar and simple vertical slits for the arms. The bonus of this pattern is that is included is an adorable square-necked, empire-waist A-line dress or gown. Oh to live a life when this pattern was considered a practical purchase. This pattern is also everywhere on Etsy if you want it, just make sure to compare prices and get an appropriate deal.



Vogue 8145

Vogue #8145 is another vintage 1960's elegant cape/coat pattern. More detailed, this beautifully flared cape with a shaped standing collar, raglan shaping, side front button closing, and side front slits. Because of the slits, the tie belt holds in the front panel at the waist and allows the back to hang full and free. This one has a little Dr. Zhivago feel to it, no?

Butterick 3261

I adore the bell shape of this one. The short cape is decorated with mitered trim around the vents fashioned for arm mobility while the long version incorporates large patch pockets.

Images: Vintage Pattern Wiki, Tom & Lorenzo, Carynification, Catnip Hill, SewBettyandDot

In The Details: Doll Clothes, Can You Believe It?

Okay, I have never purchased a pattern for a fashion doll but if I had been aware of these when I was growing up I might have been tempted. So stylish and so on-the-money. If they had been made for human women they would have been best sellers, for sure.

  

Vogue 7554 and Vogue 729

Which pattern looks more interesting, stylish, and classy?

Guess what? They are the same pattern. Now I know it's for doll clothes and V729 does show you what the outfits will really look like. However, V7554 is more cool and aspirational by using illustration. My choice would have been easy! What's really impressive is that the finished outfits actually look pretty good for miniature sewing. The black and white jumpsuit just needed a more flowing fabric, right?

  

Did anyone out there have these? Please let me know how they worked, especially that lingerie one. Can you even imagine making something that detailed and that small? I can see some real pulling-out-your-hair- frustration while constructing that itsy-bitsy garter belt!

If you notice, even Vogue has never produced a lingerie pattern for humans that elaborate since I've been checking them out, let alone one for dolls.

Images from Patterns of History

In The Details: Vogue 9785 Scares Me!

Vogue 9785

The concept is very clever but is anyone else as frightened by these illustrations as I am?!

I think what creeps me out the most is that second skirt there and how the hand from the cape model seems to belong to it, like a little torso-missing person or a tiny women hiding under the skirt like a female Cousin It. Ewww.

Note: Oops, I forgot to explain the above pattern. It is for a garment meant to be worn as a cape and as a skirt. Can you believe it! Like I said, the concept is clever and inventive but it would only work if you use the right fabric.

Image: Pattern available at Out of the Ashes Collectibles.

In the Details: More Popular Than I Thought...

McCall's 3087, Advance 5062

Remember this first pattern from this post? It was also featured here on the Male Pattern Boldness blog and Noile showed a Japanese version made out of a knit. Man, it was just raining men's pullover shirts then.

Look at that one on the right. This pattern didn't show up on my radar until later, but it should not be forgotten. Just look at that hybrid cowboy/medical internist flair! Oh, and the puffy gathered cuffs! Ooh wee, that's stylin'!

So guess how surprised I was to find that apparently this style was considered unisex and just as popular with the ladies. Behold:

McCall's 3126

So close, even down to the red vertical stripes and matching pocket. No doubt this is the same design, same company, and from the look of the package, probably the same year.

Advance 6934

Am I mistaken but doesn't that red version look kind of hot? Maybe it's the pairing with black, the belt, the bangles, or the popped-up collar but that would look right at home on Leslie Caron. The blue one; however, gives off a nautical vibe, right?

Vogue 8449

Same design but this one looks sporty, note how the back views look more like rain slickers. Also check out the even larger collar and the two hip pockets on the striped version. I have to admit I'm really loving the chartreuse one with the gathered sleeves.

Images: Vintage Patterns Wiki

In the Details: Vintage Men's Shirts Pt 2

Yes, here are more shirt pattern goodies. These are from the more experimental 1960-70s.

McCall's 7590

Here are some shirt/jacket hybrids of the 1960s. This one is so cool you can smoke a pipe in in! Note the jacket-like waist band and the side pleat detail on the back. I had a white cotton jacket in the 1980s (McCall's 9637 - very Miami Vice!) that had that same detail.

Butterick 2956

Very Route 66, right? This is the sort of shirt/jacket that I can see made in a cotton/poly blend that would be rain repellant, don't you? The one in the top right has a sporty detail of outside patch pockets placed directly at the hemline. I think I have a soft spot for that hip navy blue and green madras version.

Simplicity 7711

Well, well...father and son pullover shirts. I prefer to just ignore the ones with the lacing, ok? I'm pretty sure those were made with some sort of chamois cloth or Ultrasuede. Instead check out the use of altering the fabric's direction to add interest via horizontal/vertical and straight grain/bias. Also note again, the hemline placement of the pockets.

Simplicity 7145

This is the hipster's version of sporty casual wear, flat front creased slim pants and another version of the pullover, this time without a separate front yoke. Once, twice...three times a lady, there are those low sporty pockets again! I could really dig men wearing these pants again, especially worn with those short leather Beatle boots.

Simplicity 8006

Ooh, this one practically screams Bill Bixby and The Courtship of Eddie's Father* to me! Lovely Nehru jacket design can go as out-there as you want it to go depending on your fabric choices. It strangely is also the first mens pattern I've seen without pockets as an option.

Butterick 5897

Look closely! I had to include this fairly conventional shirt because it actually features princess seams! I suppose they are included to ensure a slim fit on the front; however, they are abandoned on the back of the shirt. You can't ignore View E's super long lapels, now can you?

Images: Out of the Ashes and Stitches & Loops patterns

* Yes, I was a fan in reruns, since the show came out the year I was born.

In the Details: Vintage Men's Shirts Pt 1

Have you seen the new "Negroni" shirt pattern by Colette Patterns? It is a vintage-inspired men's shirt with a convertible collar. It seems to be a great pattern of a style that I have admired from the past. It has just enough difference at the neck from the button-down shirts being worn by the majority of men today.

I know that the men's sections in the Big Four pattern books are sparse and actually carry more unisex patterns than ones just for men. It makes me wonder, did men have more choices in the style of shirts they wore in earlier years? Specifically the 40s and 50s, when I thought men were at their best sartorially? Now, of course, this impression comes from the movies since I'm not old enough to have experienced that live. But just if some men actually dressed like Cary Grant, Jimmy Stewart, Fred Astaire, or Gene Kelly, wow, what a wonderful image.

So I searched through vintage pattern sites to see what was out there for home sewers to make for their men. I choose none of the normal button-down shirts since those have not changed much over the years but instead chose shirts or jackets that were a little different and that might make an impact if worn today:

Pictorial Review 9051

This was the oldest (1925) jacket pattern I found. Can't you just imagine cub reporter Jimmy Stewart wearing that top one with trousers that had deep cuffs and a perfect break over his shoes? I wonder if the average guy could wear that jacket today? He couldn't have a beer gut, that's for sure.

DuBarry 1953 (1940)

A nice polo shirt with high collar and slightly gathered sleeves and cuffs. A simple but effective option. Notice how the pocket mimics the neckline facing. Oh, and look at that price?! If only patterns were that cheap now!

McCall 6166 (1945)

With this shirt all you would have to do today is use a different fabric for the body front than for the rest of the shirt. With the right combination of fabric I could definitely see this being made now. Even something as subtle as a slightly different print or different sized checks. The plaid patterned shirt shown makes me think of Rock Hudson in 1955's All That Heaven Allows with Jane Wyman. Playing an arborist, he's costumed in almost all plaid flannel shirts and coats. Yum.

Butterick 7673 (1956) and McCall's 3087 (1954)

This first one was the pattern that inspired this post. Would a man today (who wasn't a dental hygienist*) wear one of these today? From the pattern illustrations I can not figure how you would get this one off and on though. It doesn't seem to fasten in the back and the front panel doesn't seem to wrap over. Anyone have an idea?

McCall's 3904 (1956)

This one made the list only because they tried to be clever with the pocket...by turning it upside down! But it's still the same old shirt. It didn't fool me.

McCall's 5758 (1960)

Here is an updated polo style with a more relaxed collar construction and the added bonus of an unusual hem line. Anyone see this lately anywhere? I kind of like the checked version, triangle point and all.

Images: Out of the Ashes and Stitches & Loop patterns.

*Well, isn't that what they look like, those old fashioned dentist smocks?

In the Details: Unusual Pockets

I just can't stop marveling about the details that pattern company designers used to put into their patterns. Perhaps it was a direct pull from designer collections at the time or they were just tasked to be more creative. Whatever the reason, I thank them. Again, like the collar post I wrote awhile ago, these same details can easily be incorporated into our home sewing projects. All that is needed is a little time drafting an appropriate pattern for the pocket and you're done.

Enjoy the images below:

Vogue 9717

I love how the pocket's shape match the collar's curve. A simple changes to make by using the collar pattern to adjust the shape of your existing pockets.

McCall 7715

Another case of altering the shape of the pocket, this one is also moved to overlap the side seam of the skirt.

McCall's 8893

Third time's a charm! Here there is only one pocket.

Vogue S-4997

But if one pocket is nice, how about doing it twice? Here you have stacked pockets which remind me of the little coin pocket nestled within a jean pocket.

Simplicity 3233

Yes! Queen of the Big Pockets, just perfect for summer resort town shopping, right? No shopping tote needed.

Vogue S-4031

This one could be the most difficult if is in fact a working pocket. If not, then this would simply involve adding the band detail during construction or later as an embellishment.

Simplicity 2833

I am in love with this skirt, I see it in a fluid silk satin. This could simply be a case of basic pocket and an added cuff decoration.

McCall's 3556

Similar to a pocket detail in the earlier post, this "lazy" pocket is super simple.

Butterick 7638

I have no advice on how to create this one but if you have pattern drafting skills you can create it yourself. All others, just admire the shape.

McCall 7544

A cousin to the "lazy" pockets, this one is extremely lethargic and involves falling down half it's height and hanging loose. I also salute those girls for not being afraid to add width to the hips for the sake of fashion.

Images: Midvale Cottage Vintage Fashion Library