Monday, July 20, 2015

Dandy Candy Stripe Tee - Vogue 8952

Pattern: Vogue 8952 (2013)

Pattern Description: View B. Loose pullover tunic that is close-fitting through bust with cowl collar and shaped hemline.

Pattern Sizing: Size Y (xsm-sml-med) I chose the largest size because it matched my bust measurement. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes and no. The pattern illustration is deceptive, cutting the top out according to the pattern layout did not result in vertical stripes on the body and horizontal ones on the arms. If I had actually thought about it beforehand, I could have compensated and switched the pattern layout, but I did not.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, extremely easy.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was surprised that this particular pattern had NO finished garment measurements, not on the envelope or on the pattern pieces themselves. This was very disappointing. The pattern description explains that the top will fit close in the bust and it's obvious that it flows wider from that point but I would have liked to have known the amount of ease expected in the bust. I think that should be listed on every pattern, regardless.

Middle illustration is incorrect regarding the stripe placement.

Fabric Used: 2 yards red and white (50% cotton, 25% rayon, 25% poly) striped tissue knit from Girl Charlee.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Not being sure what the length would be (no finished measurements!) I chose not to make any changes before cutting the fabric. I attempted and succeeded in matching my stripes at the side seams and for a bonus (totally not planned!) when my arms are down they match all the way across!
Digging the stripe synchronicity!

I sewed the top together like I do all my knits, with two rows of stitching; one straight while stretching the fabric slightly, and then one narrow zigzag. I then finished the seams by pinking close to the zigzag stitching.


For some reason, the directions have the cowl attached only at the center back seam, meaning there is a raw edge and the wrong side of the fabric may be seen. This wasn't a problem with this knit but could be with other fabrics.

As it turns out, the Medium size did not have sufficient wearing ease and was too small. The sleeves are tight and were I to reach up suddenly I would surely rip a seam. Therefore, this top will serve as a muslin. I don't have a problem with that because I feel the horizontal stripes make me seem a bit more "boob-tacular" than I feel comfortable.


Last but not least: At the very end of sewing, while trimming the seam allowances, I snipped into the fabric below the cowl neckline! Ughhhh ... Some suspicious darning has taken place and is barely noticeable but still...this isn't one of my favorite makes.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I will use this pattern again but not this view. I would say the pattern fits small and you should first measure the flat pattern pieces to see if the amount of ease will work for you, especially the circumference of your bicep and wrists.


Conclusion: As sewn, this pattern did not flatter my figure; however, I may like this pattern once I try it in a larger size and keep the hem from ending at my widest point. My initial interest in the pattern was to make it out of heavier fabrics such as sweater knits and I will still try out that idea in the future.

Thursday, July 09, 2015

In Progress: To Frankenpattern A Shift Dress

The Goal:

Create a shift dress pattern that fits well at the neck and shoulders, skims the body, and has sleeves that allow a full range of motion. The basic pattern pieces will allow for creation of other not-so-basic variations.

  to 

For the longest time, I have been craving all types of shift dresses made in print fabrics with different necklines, sleeve lengths, and body silhouettes.

Reminds me of an elongated Grainline Scout tee.

I've tried a few commercial patterns and as with most patterns on me, they haven't fit correctly at the back neckline. I always find there is extra fabric. I don't know what it is, is my back so much more narrow than my front, because the measurements don't reflect that opinion? Or maybe the neckline is either too high or too wide, resulting in a lot of extra fabric?

NL6145 looks good from the front, right?

The problem is around back. I could carry a basketball back there!
I attempted New Look 6145 last summer and while the front looked fine, the back had so much extra fabric at mid-back. My thought was it had to do with the armscye and how the sleeve was attached, so I tried a few alterations but ended up abandoning that muslin.

This year I made a series of knit t-shirts, including one made from the Grainline Scout pattern. This reminded me of how much I like the way that pattern has always fit when made in wovens and I decided to use it with New Look 6145 to create my own shift dress pattern. I pulled out my MALA paper roll from IKEA to trace and preserve the finished full-length pattern.


The French darts and the width of the sides were never a problem in my muslin of New Look 6145, the problem was in the shoulder and neckline area. Therefore, I used my Grainline Scout pattern for the neckline, shoulder, and armscye portion and traced them onto my paper which when compared to the other pattern; flattened the angle of the shoulder line, increases the shoulder length, and decreased the neckline width.



I then positioned the dress pattern on the paper so that the lower armscyes matched and the fold line of the center front bodices lined up and traced the dart markings, length, and skirt vent shape.

Next Step:

Now to cut it out and see if it works or not. Check back later.

Part 1: Seeking a Sublime Shift

Friday, July 03, 2015

Hey You Guys, Welcome!

Like a bad blogger I haven't posted anything here since May 18. Sorry.

However, I just checked Bloglovin' and I have gained 34 followers just since June 4! That is mind-boggling to me. I don't know where you all are coming from but WELCOME to my wee corner of the Internet!  

Update: Duh, you probably appeared because of Bloglovin's brand new Sewing category, right? Thanks Kyle!

I am working on some stuff and I have one finished yet un-blogged project that I will do my best to publish shortly. Just need pictures.

If you have some time, please let me know how you came across my blog, was it by Instagram (which I just discovered) or by simply googling an insane amount of striped knit t-shirts?

As penance for no new sewing content here is a picture of my cousin's cute and cuddly puppy (AND a striped knit t-shirt):

Monday, May 18, 2015

Jolly Green Tee - Grainline Studio Hemlock


Pattern: Grainline Studio Hemlock Tee  (2013)


Pattern Description: T-shirt with a relaxed fit, slightly scooped neckline, long sleeves, and self-fabric neck binding.

Pattern Sizing: One size fits all. Finished measurements: Bust – 44.5″, Hip – 46.5″


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, extremely easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? You mean besides the fact that it was free? Well, it is an easy shape with simple construction and a quick turnaround.


Fabric Used: 2 yards Kelly green and white (50% cotton, 25% rayon, 25% poly) striped tissue knit from Girl Charlee.




Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made no changes except for cutting my top 5 inches shorter than designed, it ended up being exactly the same length as the sleeves when my arms are down. On me the original length was more tunic than a t-shirt. In fact, if I had added just 12 inches to the pattern it would make a perfect knee-length dress.

Otherwise, despite not having a serger, I sewed it together following the instructions with my sewing machine. Two layers of stitching, one straight while stretching the fabric slightly, and then one narrow zig-zag, as always.


The 23" measurement for the neck binding didn't work for me, I had to stretch it quite a bit to fit and unfortunately, you can tell. Hopefully, another wash will shrink it up some.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will definitely make this again and it would be a great beginner project.

Conclusion: A fabulous basic that can be made not so basic depending on your fabric type and design choices. But it looks especially cute made up in stripes, right?