Another Tried and True T-shirt - New Look 6402

Completed in 2022.

Pattern: New Look 6838 (from 2008, since reissued as New Look 6402)

Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline/sleeve options and pull-on drawstring pants. View C.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (XS-XL) I cut a M (14-16) for the 40.5" bust and 37" waist finished garment measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the wide neckline and the curved back seam which took care of the swayback situation.

Fabric Used: Cream chain link geometric double brush jersey knit (100% polyester) from Joann Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: When I made this pattern the first time I had fitting issues and had to alter the paper pattern extensively. You may find that the top is drafted too long, the back pattern piece will be a full inch or so wider than the front, and the neckline is extremely wide and might need adjustment. When I use this pattern I now sew a larger seam allowance on the center back, I have added to the inner neckline on my pattern piece, and also eliminated 1.5" from the hem.

Noting that my other versions were now tight in the chest I created a faux full-bust-adjustment by adapting a technique from a favorite Kwik Sew pattern. The front piece is curved outward at the bust (adding more length/room there) and gathered to fit the back piece. Once worn, the bust fills out that excess fabric.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can not recommend the pattern as is since I had to do a major reworking of the original pattern. However, the one great thing about this pattern is that the back pattern piece included a shaped center back seam which has addressed any swayback issues. I suggest looking for similar patterns in order to create the best fitted t-shirt block that your particular shape needs.

Conclusion: I am happy with the custom fit I achieved on this make. However, I am always on the lookout for a t-shirt pattern with less effort. 

The White Stripes Are Coming! - Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee

Pattern: Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee (2013, the original one-size-fits-all version)

Pattern Description: Oversized boxy top with shallow boat neckline with dropped shoulders and three-quarter-length fitted sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: One size fits all, finished length: 23.5" finished width: 58." The pattern is now available in four sizes here. 

Fabric Used: Black/Gray/Ivory stripe cotton jersey blend knit from Girl Charlee Fabrics, Wright's (vintage) non-stop rayon seam binding in Navy 55, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Black #010 and Silver #100.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: For this version, I cut the armscye of the sleeve 1/2" wider than the pattern tapering out to nothing at the wrist. I also added six inches to the sleeve length. Trying to gain more ease, I used a 1/4" seam allowance at seams except at the shoulders where I used 1/2".

Conclusion: I need to make more of these and I also need to enlarge the sleeves even more!

Big Bad Floral Wrap Dress - New Look 6301

Pattern: New Look 6301 (2014)

Pattern Description: Misses' mock wrap dress has slim or flared skirt, several sleeve options, and three types of waist treatments (tie, no tie, band) with an elastic casing at the waist. A Just 4 Knits dress. I made View A.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (8-10-12-14-16-18-20) I cut a size 18 bodice, no alterations, to begin with...

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, fairly simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The finished garment pictures of this dress look great, and at the time, this was the only wrap dress pattern I could find with a fuller skirt.

Fabric Used: 57" double brushed knit in Multi Shana Floral (97% Rayon, 3% Spandex) from Jo-ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Claret #440 and Copenhagen #933.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: After a few pattern reviews from (Sewsarahsmith and Sew-To-Fit), I decided to take their suggestions and do the following: I added length, about 4" to each of the waist ties. I also shortened the neckband by an inch to eliminate any possible gaping in the neckline.

Printed off-grain

What I didn't expect was that my fabric would continue to stretch. By the time I basted the skirt to the bodice, it seemed to have stretched out more than three inches. Luckily, I had only basted the side seams, so I took the dress completely apart, compared it to the pattern pieces, and recut. Even the armholes had increased in size!

Waist is much lower than it should be.

I cut an inch off the skirt length. Then I shortened the bodice length by 1/2." I would have liked more but didn't want to interfere with the darts at the side waist. Both the side and shoulder seams lost about 1/2", subject to me trying it on again. I also shortened the neckband piece; since everything else had stretched out, I can only imagine that the neckline did too.

I took great care not to stretch the fabric further. After a series of Big 4 pattern sleeves being too tight on me, I cut these a size larger in width, keeping everything else the same. However, I ended up sewing the sides at 6/8" when they seemed too loose. In addition, the excess ease was ridiculous; the sleeve caps are essentially gathered. I knew then how completely OVER this dress I was since I didn't try to fix it. I needed to hem it and then put it in the magic drawer (won't be hanging this one!) until I forget all about this frustration!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I still love the pattern's look and will attempt it with a more stable knit next time.

Conclusion: This dress will be worn nonetheless. Well, until it stretches itself out beyond recognition! Unfortunately, it will not function as a muslin because I have no idea what the true fit and ease of this pattern are because of this fabric's low quality.

Historical note: Photographed after voting early, October 2020.

Stacked Triangle Skirt Round 2 - New Look 6977

Pattern: New Look 6977 (2010)

Pattern Description: Misses' pull-on slim/full skirts, pants, and raglan-sleeve top. A Just4Knits pattern.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (6-16) I used size 16 as a base and added width to the side seams to match those of a size 20.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely, as there's not that much to them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The simple ease of this view; this is basic skirt construction.

Fabric Used: 60" Black Triangle Square Print on Off White 10 oz. weight Ponte de Roma (45% Rayon/50% Poly/5% Spandex) from Girl Charlee and 2" black Dritz soft waistband elastic (taken from the original skirt that this one replaces!)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I thought that because I had gained two sizes since last using this pattern, I had to add some width. I ended up adding 3" total, which was actually an inch more than I needed. I reused the waistband pattern piece for Simplicity 1163  knowing that it fit my current measurements.

I also cut the skirt out halfway between the two lengths, so it is 3" longer than view C and gave it a 1-1/4" hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I've now made both skirts in this pattern and made the top three separate times, so yes, I would recommend this pattern.

Conclusion: This skirt might seem familiar. I had to replace this skirt when the fabric pilled horribly and discolored over time. Not surprising as I bought it on sale ($1.99 per yard!) and this same fabric keeps going on sale. I had more of this fabric because I originally meant to make a matching top but decided against having my entire body covered in this very loud design. I know it won't last for a long time but I'll enjoy it while it does!

Totally Not The TNT Top - Simplicity 1325

Pattern: Simplicity 1325 (2014)

Pattern Description: Long-sleeve crew-neck top, flared jumper dress or tunic with plunging v-neck, pants, and long sleeve jacket with ribbon detail. Pattern by In K Designs. View A.

Pattern Sizing: R5 (14-16-18-20-22) I cut an 18.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but only after many alterations.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, it's a very simple top. Nothing new.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I have a TNT top pattern (New Look 6838) but I was curious to try something new. I liked the extra long sleeves.

Fabric Used: 59" Sew Classics interlock (60% cotton, 40% polyester) in Ponderosa from Jo-ann Fabrics, Wright's non-shrink rayon seam binding in Navy 55 (vintage), Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Spruce #748

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Before I cut out the fabric I compared this pattern with my TNT (New Look 6838). The main difference was that the back pattern piece in NL6838 is two pieces to allow for swayback reduction, so I transferred the curved back center seamline. For some reason, this top turned out much larger than desired even though an earlier comparison of the pattern pieces didn't seem that far off. To remedy this, I recut the side seams to match those of the TNT pattern. So basically, I should have used that pattern to begin with!

I stitched on the neckband but then found the neckline too high, especially in the back. It was also too loose, so I again turned to my TNT to correct it. I altered the neckline to halfway between this pattern's crew/scoop neck and the other's boatneck. However, I did not cut and make a new neckband. Therefore, by cutting a lower neckline and making the circumference longer yet still using that smaller band I was able to cinch and tighten the neckline. I added some subtle interest by topstitching the band with a row of zigzag stitches.

I found the original length too long and cut off 1.5 inches. The sleeves were meant to be extra long to bunch at the wrist but I found them too wide for that purpose, even if they had been made in a Lycra stretch fabric. Because I had used a non-stretchy interlock the extra length didn't work so I removed most of it and then added tiny elastic to the sleeve hems. Next time, I might try a wider hem circumference for a more dramatic effect.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I would not. However, I bought the pattern for the dress so I hope I won't have as many problems with that. I will definitely take my own pattern measurements and compare them to the printed finished garment measurements before cutting anything out next time.

Check out my @grombre transition

Conclusion: I am happy with the final top but I really should have used my TNT pattern!

Oyster White Shell Top - New Look 6838

(This was actually made in 2018.)

Pattern: New Look 6838 (from 2008, since reissued as New Look 6402)

Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline/sleeve options and pull-on drawstring pants. View C.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (XS-XL) I cut a M (14-16) for the 40.5" bust and 37" waist finished garment measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the wide neckline and the curved back seam which took care of the swayback situation.

Fabric Used: Ponteroma knit in Winter White for $3 per yard (orig. $15) from Hancock Fabrics liquidation sale.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: When I made this pattern the first time I had fitting issues and had to alter the paper pattern extensively. You may find that the top is drafted too long, the back pattern piece will be a full inch or so wider than the front, and the neckline is extremely wide and might need adjustment. When I use this pattern I now sew a larger seam allowance on the center back, I have added to the inner neckline on my pattern piece, and also eliminated 1.5" from the hem.

This time I made the sleeveless shell. Noting that my other versions were now tight in the chest I created a faux full-bust-adjustment by adapting a technique from a favorite Kwik Sew pattern. The front piece is curved outward at the bust (adding more length/room there) and gathered to fit the back piece. Once worn, the bust fills out that excess fabric.

A simple turn-under of fabric at the neckline and armscye completes the top.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can not recommend the pattern as is since I had to do a major reworking of the original pattern. However, the one great thing about this pattern is that the back pattern piece included a shaped center back seam which has addressed any swayback issues. I suggest looking for similar patterns in order to create the best fitted t-shirt block that your particular shape needs.

Conclusion: I am happy with the custom fit I achieved on this make and there will be many other versions.

Fall Sewing Update

I AM sewing, I really am. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures to prove it! Yet.

I made an impromptu skirt from the generous leftovers (at least a yard!) from this black and white challis top in 2014. I think I had originally planned to make pants from this challis? This skirt was just a simple fabric tube with elastic at the top.

I then made a shell from New Look 6838, view C in white ponte. I always thought that view looked like a great pattern but until now I had only made the sleeved versions, here and here.

More babies, more baby clothes. I handed off two pairs of baby leggings to a co-worker and just finished another pair plus two simple elastic skirts for another new baby girl at the company. Unbelievably, there is still fabric left! In total, I've made five leggings and two skirts from only 1-1/2 yards of interlock!

Hopefully, coming soon, more sewing...

Love Symbol #2 Pencil Skirt - New Look 6843

Pattern: New Look 6843 (2011)

Pattern Description: Straight and A-line skirts in two different lengths.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (8-18) I originally cut out a size 18 according to the measurement chart.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, extremely easy. This is the simplest of skirts. However, for me...

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the variety of shapes and sometimes I prefer a straight waistband to a contoured one.

Fabric Used: 1 yard 58" Sew Classic bengaline suiting in Blackberry*/**(81% poly, 15% rayon, 4% spandex) from Jo-Ann for $6.50 (orig. $12.99 at 50% off), 7" Coats & Clark All Purpose zipper in #13 Navy, Wrights 3/4" Flexi-Lace hem tape, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Eggplant #943.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: According to the finished measurements, the size 18 (my measurements) would have left 4" of wearing ease for the hips, which would have been excessive! I needed to cut between a size 16 and 18, to eliminate around 2" of that ease.

Note: When I chose this pattern I thought it was a former TNT for me but I was actually thinking of a different pattern! I had only made the A-line version of this pattern; therefore, an accurately shaped hip line hadn't been as crucial.

When I altered the skirt, I found that the back skirt was drafted wider than the front. When the pattern pieces were placed atop one another the size 18 front piece matched the size 16 back, according to the cutting lines. I had never encountered that before; however, it makes sense since I surely have more volume back there than in front. I cut the back piece down to size 16 (eliminating 1/2" for a total of 2") to make the skirt fit.

I believe in marking my darts in chalk after fabric tacking. Sometimes if I think there will be some time between cutting a project out and sewing I will also baste along the chalk lines. I then baste the actual darts together before the final stitching for accuracy. It may be overkill but I am rarely unhappy with my finished darts...so better safe than sorry.

Surprisingly, the hip curve was too pronounced and I had to shave almost 1/4" off the high hip, tapering back out to the pattern above and below.

I know the majority of blog sewists use invisible zippers but I've never used one. I am quite happy with my centered zippers. They're neat, clean, and I've always been able to depend on them and have never had a broken zipper. To be honest, I may be a little scared of trying something new too but if it ain't broke...

In this case, I cut the skirt backs out so the fabric selvage would be the zipper seam allowance. I basted directly along my stitching line to ensure it being straight and produced as near a perfect zipper insertion as possible. The key to a neat and precise centered zipper is keeping the seam basted while you sew it in, ensuring that the edges cover all signs of the zipper when closed. In fact, if you also pickstitch your zipper there's really no visual difference from an invisible one.

The narrow waistband was easy to construct and provided a nice session of hand sewing. Strangely, even though I had reduced the pattern side seams, including the waist, by 1", the size 18 waistband notches still matched.

I decided against the skirt side slit once it was basted and I tried it on. The skirt didn't need it for walking and it was extremely awkward when sitting. (Always remember to practice sitting and climbing stairs when making skirts and pants.)

When trying on the skirt I noticed that the skirt was hanging awkwardly below the hipline. I don't know if it was because of the stretch fabric or perhaps the grain was off at the back center seam.

After trying on the skirt with the finished zipper and waistband, the next thing I did was peg the skirt some by tapering a bit by coming in 1/4" from the bottom of each side seam allowance (for a 1 inch decrease in the skirt hem circumference) and blending back out an inch or so below the widest part of my hips. While this improved the overall skirt shape it was still flaring out from the body at the center back.

I eventually decided to take in the back seam 1/4" at the hem blending back to the seam allowance below the zipper and that fixed it.

After the alterations to the constructed skirt were finally completed I had a skirt that hung straight and slim. I used a slightly shorter hem in the back to create more length there to accommodate my extra volume and allow for an even all-around hem.

Truly invisible hem, right?

As it turned out, my job of straightening this hem was such an event that surprisingly I ended up with a tiny 1/4" hem. Because of this I knew I couldn't finish the hem my usual way so I used some leftover pink hem lace and slip-stitched it down. Isn't it pretty?

I like the rear view ; ).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would not make again. There were far too many alterations needed to make this skirt fit my body and I didn't transfer them to the pattern. I would rather start all over with a new pattern. I can't say that it's a bad pattern as it's a favorite of many sewists but it just did not work for me.

Coordinated me-made outfit.

Conclusion: A hard won simple straight skirt which nonetheless ended up looking great and will be a staple in my wardrobe and it's in a color, not black! I'm happy.

* Love Symbol #2 is a new purple color that Pantone created for the estate of the late artist Prince. Therefore, this is a Prince Purple Pencil skirt.I

** Since I made this Pantone also declared this shade of purple the 2018 Color of the Year.

Dotty Duster Coat - New Look 6656

Pattern: New Look 6656 (2006)

Pattern Description: Collar-less, unlined, above-knee duster jacket.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (10-12-14-16-18-20-22) I made view A in a size 14 at the shoulders and bust increasing to a 16 at waist and 18 below.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, yes it did!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely, it had a very simple construction, with no tricky or difficult steps involved.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? What I appreciated the most was the inclusion of a center back seam for shaping. Also the waist shaping of the side seams match my body type (10" difference between waist and hips) although it might be too much of a difference for a slimmer-hipped woman.

Fabric Used: 2 yards of black, white, and gray polka dot print moleskin from Jo-Ann Fabrics (on sale for $7.49 per yard, orig $29.98), Pellon SK135 Sheer-Knit fusible interfacing, 2 packages Wrights 1/4" double fold bias tape in Black, vintage Wright's Trims non-shrink seam binding in Navy #55, and Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Black #10.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?: I first made some changes to the paper pattern: I cut View A out in size 14 at the shoulders moving out to a size 18 at hips.

Comparing the pattern pieces, New Look 6656 had a strange drafted protrusion at the upper back that I cut off leaving the back straight above the curved "swayback" shaping. I found the back neckline uncomfortably high on my neck so ended up cutting both necklines and their facings in a size 12.

The sleeves for this design were meant to be cropped or extended with a contrast cuff. Instead, I combined the two pattern pieces and cut my sleeves out at full length.

Construction: 

First thing, first, I discovered when I checked and straightened the fabric grain by pulling a thread that the print was slightly off grain.

 

 Correct => Incorrect

Second, when finally confronted with cutting out this fabric I realized that I had misrepresented the fabric's orientation to myself all these years. I had imagined a coat with vertical lines when in fact the fabric has the dots running horizontally! Which now meant that I should really try to match the seams, right? That resulted in me spending a lot of time lining up, marking, and cutting out all the pieces in a single layer.

I then attempted to match the side seams, though the bust darts made it more complicated. The moleskin was a but stretchy which made matching a little difficult as I had to keep tugging the rows into place. Eventually, I was able to have white rows of dots line up across the seams; however, if you look close, you can see that the two adjacent rows of gray dots weren't matched correctly and different shades of gray were lined up! Luckily, the most important seam, the back seam, came out perfectly.

However, I shouldn't have had that problem though because the fabric was a bit translucent making the matching pretty easy.  I was able to lay a piece atop another piece and see the design on both. Oh, wait... I could see the design/shapes but not differentiate between the very close shades of gray. Okay, I feel better now.

Later on, I also added stay tape to the shoulder seams to combat the possibility of them stretching. It just happened that I received this vintage seam binding in navy (from a giveaway) that I could use for this "vintage" project.

Turning out the squared lapels was very important to this jacket looking great. Therefore, I trimmed the seam allowance to eliminate bulk. Of course, later I remembered I had tips and tutorials saved on the best ways to do this. Ugh!

In fact, right after this jacket was completed I saw this very promising technique on page 73 of the February/March 2017 issue of Threads magazine.

I finished the raw edges on the facing by turning under and stitching. At this point, the fabric had revealed that it frayed extensively and since this coat would not be lined I wanted to finish as nearly as possible the other raw edges that would be subject to regular friction.

Side A or B?

I had the choice of going with my typical finish of simply turning the seam allowance under or I could be daring and try something more decorative like a bound edge or a Hong Kong finish.

Because of the graphic look of the jacket and how precious this project had become over time I chose to use bias tape to bind the exposed seam allowances.

On the back, I bound the seams separately so they could lay open and flat; but I chose to bind the sides and sleeves together as one flat seam. I am so happy with how this turned out.

I'm extremely proud of my sleeve caps. The ease allowed in the pattern was perfect, I was able to achieve a smooth cap but it was not effortless. I first machine basted the sleeves in but my turquoise staystitching (absolutely necessary!) showed that they didn't go in exactly on the seam line. I then unpicked the seam and basted them in by hand and stitched directly over those stitches. Voila!

That success was followed by more bound seams for the underarm and shoulder seams before attempting the most difficult, the binding of the armscye. Luckily, that went well too and I am in love with all of my bound seams and how professional the whole thing looks!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I would. The alterations I had to make were needed for my particular body and didn't seem too bad to me. The difference between my waist and hips was perfectly accommodated for in the pattern. Otherwise, the construction is perfect for a beginner. I also love the slight bell shape of the sleeves.

Images: Calvin Klein and @meccok on instagram

J. Jill duster

Conclusion: I have had a few inspiration pics for this type of coat over the years and I have finally made one for myself. The J. Jill pic above is from their 2010 catalog and is the original inspiration for this duster and shows how diligent I was in getting all the details right despite going with a woven versus their knit version.

I think this will be a great addition to my wardrobe, easily able to transform a simple top and bottom into a chic ensemble. I hope to use this pattern many times and definitely want to make an evening coat out of a patterned satin brocade.

Duster History Posts:

The original idea from 2010!!

The first try

The second try