Pants: I don't need Gene Kelly to be happy...

I remember when I was a kid that on almost any day you could view an old black & white movie. Sometimes it would be a musical starring Gene Kelly (Brigadoon, An American in Paris, etc.) or a dramatic classic like The Strange Love of Martha Ivers or The Lady Eve with Barbara Stanwyck. There was somewhere in these films that I could disappear into...a world where men wore suits the majority of the time and women coordinated their shoes with their bags and hats.

Dancing and Singing In The Rain!

Today, give me a man wearing a crew-cut or high v-neck sweater with a white t-shirt and flat front or pleated tapered pants with a deep break at the wingtips (which he will also wear) and I'll be in love.

If he can dance, all the better.

When I was in college, I wanted those pants for myself and slapped inspiration pics in my fashion scrapbook:

Images I saved from an old Tweeds catalog. Remember Tweeds?

 

Nowadays, pants such as these can still be found at this cool company, Old Town of Norfolk in the UK. Their design philosophy is described as "simplicity and restraint with minimal styling" however, I feel these have more style than many pants produced today.

and Denes No. 5s for women!

Unfortunately, their pants are not cheap, as they are made to order from your true measurements in 4 to 6 weeks. In fact, you visit their adorable showroom, try on the styles to get an idea of the fit, and then select your fabric and color by use of fabric swatches, and then wait. No fast fashion here! You are paying for the well-done work and in addition, there is shipping if you live outside of the UK.

Another popular British-based company,  Merchant & Mills, seemed to have taken notice of this older established company. They are now selling the type of textiles and notions that Old Town might use in their completed makes. Though they are also producing sewing patterns that look to follow this industrial utility aesthetic, at the moment their designs are more minimalist in design details.

I hope that either they or another company will start producing patterns with more industrial age details like brace buttons (for suspenders), buttoning cross pockets, waist adjustment toggles, and button flies that make up the Old Town designs.  It will then be up to us, the makers, to construct them out of durable and hardworking fabrics such as heavy cotton drill, canvas, moleskin, corduroy, and 12 oz. denim.
 
Well...I can hope!

Jaywick Smock Dress

 Oh, but back to Old Town, they also have great dresses!

Images: Source unknown; my personal photo; the Old Town website.

Fashion in Film: Laurel Healy Is BrainDead (2016)

Creators: Michelle and Robert King
Actors: Mary Elizabeth Winstead, Tony Shalhoub, Aaron Tveit, Danny Pino,
Music: David Buckley
Costume Design: Daniel Lawson, David Brooks

Courtesy of CBS

Laurel Healy is the main character of CBS's BrainDead, a new show from the creators of The Good Wife. Played by Mary Elizabeth Winstead (PBS' Mercy Street, Scott Pilgrim vs. The World) Laurel is currently my work wardrobe inspiration. Her clothes are sharp, professional, and comfortable, usually sleek skirts with eye catching tops and either a patterned blazer or an attractive all-purpose coat. Her color palette consists of shades of black, white, blue (from navy to cornflower) and neutral earth tones. It may be a simple palette but she shakes it up with graphic patterns, textured fabric, and interesting embellishments.

I tried to get this out ASAP so that you could check BrainDead out Sunday at 10 before the season ends but you can still stream it at CBS.com.

 Work separates:

Love this wine-colored sweater tunic worn in episode 3, especially the nubby texture and the slightly too-long sleeves.

Yes, please! I want episode 5's wine colored soft leather jacket with patterned silky shirt and stretch woven green pencil skirt. I believe she even wore this one with knee high boots. Love that huge gold belt buckle.

This one, also from episode 5, I think of as a "poor boy" sweater, because it looks as if it was made up of remnants of various other sweaters.

This chunky graphic sweater in episode 9 is so sweet with the rolled collar and the wide black cuffs.

Both of these are from episode 12, which hasn't aired yet! It is more of that color blocking of sweater knits and I want it for my own!

Jackets:

Image courtesy of Nordstrom

Love this Akris Punto jacket worn in episode 4. I can totally understand why this designer has shown up both on this show and The Good Wife, just look at all this!

Unfortunately, I could find no information on this jacket from episode 10 anywhere. But just look at that texture and pattern!

More texture courtesy of Oscar de la Renta in episode 7 and this one is worn with a unique white blouse that shows that the blouse underneath doesn't have to be plain and let the patterned jacket shine; both pieces can be "statements."

Coats:
Laurel owns at least five overcoats, primarily trenches that are decidedly distinctive from each other; a typical khaki, a subtle grey plaid, a plain pale pink, a cornflower blue one, and the most noticeable one from the first episode, a graphic leopard print with bias bound seams visible on the coat's exterior.

Photo: Macall Polay/CBS

After work:

A earth tone and black dress combination; however, the shade of the background fabric on this Alexander McQueen dress in episode 6 gives the impression of nudity from a distance. Pretty sly with the subliminal messaging on a date with your crush, Laurel!

(Photo: Michael Parmelee/CBS)

This dress worn in the first episode is also in shades of earth and black but it's definitely not boring or staid, is it? I love the floral applique with the black border and how the shape of the flowers dictate the shape of the sleeves.

Oh, and how about her sexy midnight blue velvet dress from the Tax Ball, a low cut front and back!

Here's an article on the show's style in The Observer from Emma Frazier of the blog, TV Ate My Wardrobe, another blog you should read.

This post would not be possible without the work of the great website WornOnTV. Clicking on most of the clothing photos should take you to the corresponding page on WOT that gives specific info on that item. They don't have everything, but I've also tried to track down details on the outfits pictured above. You must check out their site!

Credit: All images courtesy of CBS Photo Archive/Getty Images if not specifically noted above.

The Rundown - Color, Pattern, And Fit

While taking this time off from the blog, I have found myself thinking about my wardrobe quite a bit. Since I wear a uniform the majority of my days now, when I get to venture from it, choosing what I wear becomes more important. It might just be escorting my father to one of his many medical appointments; however, what I'm wearing reveals a bit about me and what I like, right?

Here is the majority of my handmade wardrobe. Let's dissect it, all right?

8 Florals
Looking at my wardrobe in these pictures reveals that at least in my wardrobe I am attracted to florals more than graphic angular prints and patterns. which surprises me, as I stayed as far away from florals (and pink) as much as I could as a child/teen. In addition, a lot of these florals are very dainty and delicate (V9772), though there are some bold (S3835/V8392) and/or abstracted (B5429, Paprika Jade, NL6939, M5042) ones too.

10 Non-Floral Prints
The few abstract prints are the black & white Ikat Grainline Scout, the gingham and polka dots of my Sorbettos, Burdastyle boatneck stripes, the confetti dots of B5429 and the One-hour dress, and the gorgeous madras plaid of M6712. I would love to buy more exotic prints but most of my stash stills hails from either JoAnns or Hancock Fabrics. Who knows what would happen if I were let loose at Mood, Britex, or Gorgeous Fabrics.

  

 

1. Grainline Tank, 2. Vogue 9772, 3. New look 6977, 4. Burdastyle "Twist Again", 5. Grainline Scout, 6. New Look 6838, 7. New Look 6977, 8. Burdastyle 02-2010 112A, 9. Grainline Scout, 10. Grainline Scout

 

 

1. Simplicity 3835/Vogue 8392, 2. New Look 6807, 3. New Look 6838, 4. Butterick 2564,

5. Butterick 5429, 6. Butterick 5429, 7. Colette Sorbetto, 8. Colette Sorbetto

Color
I love color, and finally my handmade wardrobe reflects that. When I was younger, my mother always moaned that I didn't wear "happy" colors, however, if she could see me now she'd be overjoyed. Check out the bold colors; the blues, purples, reds, and mustard yellows. Strange, but some of my favorite colors are still not represented, a great forest green and pumpkin orange. For those I will need to start frequenting online fabric stores because Hancocks and JoAnn are not big enough fans of those autumnal shades.

Neutrals
You can see how some of my earlier makes were more neutral and my wardrobe became more colorful over time. Surprisingly, mostly when it came to items for my lower half. I'm very proud of the bright red pants and the blue, teal, and purple skirts...but just wait for the next one. My final Moss skirt will not be sunshine yellow like the muslin but the color is just as eye-catching.

1. New Look 6216, 2. New Look 6977, 3. Vogue 2747, 4. Vogue 2532,
5. Simplicity 2152, 6. Sew U skirt, 7. Paprika Jade skirt, 8. Grainline Moss muslin #3

 

 

1. Simplicity 5914, 2. Simplicity 8126, 3. Sew U skirt,

4. Pattern Runway, 5. Vogue 2883, 6. Sew U skirt

Loose-fitting

However, I will always love a good drapey, Japanese-inspired garment such as those in books like the Drape Drape series and the such. I also love a good shift or a-line dress such as the Burdastyle Anda, B4948, or M6712 because they can always be cinched by a belt, if desired.  My Burdastyle Anda is no longer worn only because the fabric (a mystery one) has pilled beyond repair. I must make a replacement soon because I love the easy shape. The M6712 is a bit awkward to wear bra-wise so unfortunately doesn't get much wear in summer. But I could fix that by making a coordinating racer-back tee (MUST get on that for next summer!).

Fitted
I used to wear a lot more fitted clothing when I started sewing decades ago but the joy of easy fitting and weight fluctuations as I got older brought about a love for more flexible fits when it came to tops and dresses. The Colette Oolong is on the tight side in the chest and is more of a special occasion dress. I'm not even sure if it fits now, which is a shame because it took me forever to get it to fit decently. However, my Paprika Jade skirt makes me think I need a few more fitted items in my wardrobe, maybe even a real femme fatale dress in my future?

 

1. Simplicity 5190, 2. New Look 6939

 

I no longer enjoy the fit of these two ample dresses above and they will both be altered. S5190 will be picked apart and become the bodice of either New Look 6968 or Vogue 8787 with a slim skirt made in a coordinating stretch gabardine. NL6939 will receive back darts for more waist shaping, going from a shift to a sheath.

 

 

1. McCall's 5042, 2. Burdastyle "Anda", 3. McCall's 6712, 4. Colette Oolong,

5. New Look 6939, 6. "One-Hour Dress", 7. Butterick 4948, 8. Simplicity 2406

So, that's where my wardrobe is now and this is where it's going: more color, more pattern, more fitted silhouettes, and definitely more pants!


All composite images created with fd's Flickr Toys

Uniformity Blows

I have never worn a uniform before*.

The kids across the street went to private school but I never envied them their uniforms even though school uniforms are supposed to not only be a pop culture fetish but also a fashion look that comes back every once in a while.

In any retail job I've ever had, the only clothing rules I followed had more to do with how messy you would get at the job - when I was a coffee barista, I had to worry about oil stains from the coffee beans - or how cold you would get in typical office air conditioning. Otherwise, what I wore was my own choice. Even my non-retail, corporate jobs have been office casual and I pretty much wore what I wanted.

The clothes I'm wearing for this job I would normally only wear at home. The shirt is one I actually stopped wearing in public years ago when I realized the knit is so off grain that the button placket eventually pulls diagonally across the body and needs constant adjustment. However, it happens to be navy blue, so it's the right color, and the only piece of clothing in this color that I own. I've been trying to make myself buy some fabric to make a better substitute but all the navy fabric I've seen in Joann's and Hancock's were dull and uninteresting. Also, the thought of making something that I don't really want to be wearing in the first place is depressing...like sewing my own hospital gown...why do that?

Note: I just went out and bought two navy t-shirts from Old Navy on sale, $8 for both! You can't beat that.

I now see how important clothes have been and are in my life. No one can see ME now. I have become my uniform, my graying hair (can't decide if I grow it out or not), and my sensible shoes (worn b/c standing on my feet all day).

Anyone else out there wearing a uniform, or am I the only one, in this sewing community, that is?

Has it done anything to your self-esteem?

*Except for a few months in the Brownies/Girl Scouts.

The Magic Of The "It" Jacket

For the last two months, I have been thinking about a jacket. You know, one of those jackets that make every outfit look sophisticated and put together. In junior high, I had a Laura Ashley long black blazer with a nipped-in waist that I wore until I outgrew it.
 

Only slightly similar to this gorgeous jacket by blogger Boodely.

In college, I had a dark plum Anne Klein jacket of my sister's, this one was cropped, square with slight shoulder pads and a peter pan collar. I wore that until it was taken at a nightclub when I put it behind the counter with others. At the end of the night, they handed me the only jacket that was left back there. I put my arm through it and immediately knew it was wrong. How come the girl who took mine didn't notice? She never called the club to inquire about hers so I kept it. It was similar in the fact that it was boxy but it had a squared off collar and was more like a business suit jacket; therefore, it did not have the same feel.

1987-88 party wear.

I then moved on to oversized men's jackets, first a plain black one and then a 1960s sharkskin, both worn with the sleeves rolled up. The sharkskin was a unique color combination of spring green and brown that resulted in a bronze-y hue. It was extremely oversized; however, as looking back at pictures proves, the look worked. Probably in large part because I wore it with confidence and feminine vintage thrift store dresses with nipped-in waists. My waist was tiny then and I flaunted it with full skirts whenever I could, even sometimes with a pair of men's cordovan wingtips.

Similar to these.

I also wore this masculine jacket with vintage 1930's lace-up patent leather high-heeled oxfords, like the ones above. It looked cool at the time.

About six years later, I bought a khaki linen-blend jacket for $16 at a shop at Potomac Mills Outlet (it was Papaya!). I loved this summery jacket. Instead of buttons, it had copper snaps down the front, a waist yoke that nipped in with a bit of flare below, and interesting seaming and gathers at the bust line. It was finished with a crisp collar that looked great buttoned all the way up and snapped plackets on the long sleeve cuffs. Luckily, I have a picture because it was snatched up by someone in a coffee shop. I realized as soon as I got home but the shop was closed. When I called the next day, they said it was gone. I am still mad. Get your own cute jackets (since I obviously must have excellent taste) but leave mine alone!

I hope to use Simplicity 1781 to recreate it one day, mixing and matching the pattern's elements. However, before that I need a more universal jacket that will span the seasons and go with all my skirts and the new pants I intend to make.

Great unique jackets have been popping up everywhere I look, at Zara, Madewell, Mango, and by upscale designers. To see some of the jacket styles I am personally contemplating, check out my Jacket Inspiration group on Pinterest. In addition, versions of another possible style can be found by using the term "waterfall jacket". In the next post, I will show examples of sewing patterns available to create your own "It" jacket at home.

Don't You Love Saturdays? I Do.

I haven't seen much writing about this line, so here goes.

Have you seen Kate Spades' more affordable new venture, Saturday? It's a unique retail and social media strategy, each Saturday they release online another "collection" of a hundred or so new pieces. Some of these are completely new items while others are their staple clothing designs that continue from one "collection" to the next done up in new colors, fabrics, and patterns. Their goal is to keep customers engaged and coming back.

These are basics with a clean design and unique details that keep them from being boring. Designs that would make for a great wardrobe on their own made up in different types of fabrics, colors, and prints. The fabrics range from graphic black & white designs, brightly colored solids, wild oversized florals, pixelated prints, photographic prints, painterly abstracts, to Spirographic circles.

These multi-category collections include everything: clothes, shoes, accessories, handbags, tech accessories, and even travel storage pieces. These clothes are perfect for weekends and going on vacation. The Saturday line is meant as the more casual and lower-priced complement to Spade's namesake line. Think of this as fun clothing for purely fun times.

There is one particular dress I would love to have this summer, the Let Loose Dress:

A gathered tunic dress with cap sleeves, 1/2" elasticized back hem, removable self-tie belt, and hook-and-eye back zip closure. Made in a stretch poplin of 97% cotton with 3% Spandex. As seen below, this belt can be worn around the entire dress or just laced through the slits and tied either to the front or to the back.

Let Loose Dress $170

DIY version:

I found a few patterns that could be easily altered to make a version of this dress; Simplicity 1620 view A, Butterick 5356, view B lengthened into a dress, and probably the best choice of the bunch, Simplicity 2147*, view B. A knit version could also be made with a few alterations to Kwik Sew 3559.

Simplicity 1620 - Butterick 5356 - Simplicity 2147

These three already share the mid-chest yoke, cut-on sleeves, and gathered body of the Saturday dress. Alterations that will need to be done to all are:

• Slash and spread the width of the body portion to create fullness and allow for more gathers.
• If the pattern has a straight or yoke-less back, alter the pattern piece to mimic the front.
• If neckline is large enough, you can omit the zipper completely.
• Create slits at the side seams to allow for a 1 - 2 1/2 inch wide belt.
• Place 1/2 inch elastic in the back hem only. 

Images: Kate Spade Saturday

*There is a fabulous version of Simplicity 2147 here by Jenni of Simple Beans.