Wedding Card Box 2026 Variation

Ten years ago, I made a satin-covered card box for my niece's wedding, and this year I was asked to make another for her twin!

The inspiration:

The overall simplicity and card slot trim

The card slot trim and ribbon trim

The side opening

The colors: white and various shades of lilac.

I loved developing my skills on the last one, and with this one I can address the few things that I wanted to change after the event. From the notes on my final project post, the new plan is:

1. one large box instead of three stacked
2. a larger card entry slot
3. a more secure top so no-one can get into it until end of event

This time, I had to do without the lovely Joann Fabrics (RIP) and the amazing stretch satin they had then. Luckily, Wal-Mart's little fabric department came to the rescue. They have 2-yard bundles of fabric available, which included a pretty decent satin. Luckily, my niece chose a lilac shade for her wedding color and they had a great color match in the satin and ribbon. To complete the decoration, I have leftover rhinestone gems from her sister's box design to decorate the card slot.

In my search for a strong base box, I had a hard time finding one that was large enough, but not flimsy. After a month of research, I saw a portable storage box on IKEA's website, the Fjaderharv, that was perfect. Made of two interlocking sheets that are screwed together, plus a lid, it fulfilled the brief; sturdy, portable, and could provide a reversible way to secure the lid to the box. I will do this by running decorative ribbons through the carry hand holds similar to the second inspiration pic above. 

Materials:

• Fjaderharv 12" x 12" x 12" storage box with lid, $7.99, IKEA
• One purple wisteria bush by Ashland, $19.99, Michaels
• AMAZLINEN sequin table runner, 14" x 108" in silver $11.99
• 1 lilac satin table runner (borrowed)
• 2 yards of Shason Textile Inc. costume satin in White, $7.13, Wal-Mart

• 2 yards Casa Collection stretch satin in Bright White,  by Michael's
• Gwen Studios 1.5" purple satin ribbon, 7 yards, $1.97, Wal-Mart
• Offray 1/4" purple satin (100% polyester) ribbon
• Two Bead Landing Sticky Gems Value Packs in clear crystal rhinestone $4.99 (2)
• Elmer's Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive $6.9
• Elmer's Clear Glue
• 3 Elmer's Washable School Glue Sticks $.95
• Olfa 45mm rotary cutter
• 1 emery board (or sandpaper, of course)

Total: $00.

Construct box. The assembled box has two gaps where the sides overlap, so I applied glue stick to eliminate a slight gap which would have showed when the fabric was applied. I had tried the spray adhesive before remembering this was the same ten year-old can from the first box!

Enlarge card slot opening. Next I enlarged one of the handle openings so that it works as a envelope slot. This was easily done with my rotary cutter. Now I can cover the box with fabric. Very conveniently, the lid will eliminate me having to embellish the top edge of the opening, which works with how much trim I have left.

Apply fabric. Calculate the amount of fabric needed. This box was much larger than the ones I did before. Those were easily made from large sections of 44"/45" fabric.

The costume satin was much thinner so I thought I'd need to do two layers of satin or use muslin for the first layer. Update: I couldn't do it. I remembered the name of the fabric I used before and luckily Michael's* still carried it online!

I started with covering the lid. No measurements needed, I draped a corner over the lid with an extra overhang of 3/4"-1" on all four sides that will be glued to the underside. I applied glue stick liberally to the top of the lid, flipped it and centered it over the back side of the fabric and thoroughly pressed it down. I let that part dry a bit before applying glue to the sides and folding in the corners.

Now for the big deal, attaching the white satin to the entire surface,

I laid the box on its side on my fabric and cut, leaving 3 to 4" for the top and bottom overhang, making sure to use the selvage. I took the box outside and sprayed adhesive on all four sides making sure to only hold it through one of the handles from the inside. I didn't want the adhesive to get on my hands too much.

I then carefully placed the box, side down trying to center it perfectly. Manipulating from the inside I pressed the entire surface into the fabric, especially at the corners, trying to make a crisp edge. I continued rolling the box over and pressing until I reached the first side again. I used the rotary cutter and ruler to cut a straight edge. I folded this under 1/4" and finger pressed it flat, using a glue stick to apply, making a pretty flat seam at the corner.

I turned the edges down inside the box, trimming the width and into the corners to make it neat. For the bottom, I completely removed the bulk at the corners so the box would stand level. These edges were attached solely with glue stick, no longer trusting the traveling aerosol of the adhesive around the satin fabric. I used up two glue sticks in the process.

Add rhinestone embellishment.

This step was easy. I added two rows around three sides of the card opening. They're self-adhesive, but being ten years old, some of the adhesive failed and some clear glue came to the rescue.

Add ribbon trim.

I added a row of the ribbon around the bottom. I had covered the lid in satin, but I didn't like how bulky the folds at the corner looked. The ribbon was exactly the same width as the lid edge, so I applied it along the sides.  This also added balance and interest. I then added a line of darker ribbon at the bottom for contrast.

 

Add more bling.

For a finishing touch, I used the rest of the rhinestone trim above the darker ribbon. Yes!

Construct ribbon bow.

Now, for the main attraction...what to put on top?

I know I she wants a ribbon bow, and with such a large box, it has to be substantial. That's where the wired ribbon comes in. I checked out a few video tutorials on Pinterest and chose a multiple segment bow. I also decided not to permanently attach it. I would tie it on with a long length of ribbon at the event, therefore securing the lid to the box for the length of the event.

The wired ribbon let me down! I couldn't get any structure for they bow. So I abandoned it. All that research and procrastination on even attempting it...

Conclusion

At the venue during set up I decided to just use the faux bunch of wisteria in the bridal color as the focal point. Arranged on a white satin base with a lilac satin sash and a silver sequin table runner side by side. I think it looked great. In addition, this was the same silver sequin table runner that I used for her twin sister's card box. 

It was beautiful and functional. Success accomplished!

*Who bought out Joann Fabrics and has most of their stock and manufacturers...online.

Little Boys and Dinosaurs - Simplicity S9128

Pattern: Simplicity S9128 (2020)

Pattern Description: Boys' and Mens' Lounge wear pants and raglan sleeve knit top

Pattern Sizing: (S-M-L / S-M-L-XL) I made a medium size for both boys.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly.

Were the instructions easy to follow? These were extremely easy to sew.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I needed a basic boys knit top so I wouldn't have to draft it myself. Since Joann had closed, I ended up buying this pattern through an Etsy seller.

Fabric Used: 58" Dinosaurs on Black Jersey Knit interlock fabric (100% Cotton) by POP! from Joann Fabrics (RIP), and Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Spruce #784.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Luckily, my goal was to make shirts "to grow into," so I only had to pick a size larger than the sample one my niece gave me. How much bigger they are than the kids when they get these is the mystery.

The pattern is extremely easy. The only difficulty was attaching the stitched neck and to the shirt. The fabric is not as stretchy as needed, so stretching while sewing such a small opening was a bit difficult. 

My first try from the neck band side was not successful, it was attached very unevenly from the shirt side.

I decided to try again. I also checked the cutting diagram and saw that I had cut the bands against the grain. This definitely hadn't help. On my second try, I sewed the band on from the shirt side, making sure that I had the seamline even all around. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. If I find more fabric the boys like I could see making more shirts. In addition, the pattern has an uncut mens size. So if I find a man I like, I could see making him a shirt.

Conclusion: The shirts worked out, my nephews like them. They were bigger than needed which works for the older eight-year-old, but its comically too large for the six-year old nephew. I hope his grandma can stitch it up a bit smaller for him.

Spring Green Floral Dress: McCall's 7432

Pattern: McCall's 7432 (c. 2016)

Pattern Description: Pullover dresses, fitted through the bust, have neckline, sleeve, and hem length variations. I cut the short length with short sleeves and constructed a bound V-neckline.

Pattern Sizing: Size ZZ (Lrg-Xlg-Xxl) I cut out a Lrg at the bust and tapered it out to the Xlg size at the waist and hip.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No, I had many fitting issues with this dress. It needed an FBA, bust darts, and a swayback adjustment, all things I needed to reverse-engineer for a wearable dress.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the dress was four pattern pieces, a straightforward construction. My only issue was with the fit, mostly my own fault.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a dress with few details so as not to take away from the medium-scale floral print. This design was perfect. However, I wish I had chosen something with a fuller skirt; this fabric would do great swishy action. 

Fabric Used: 58" Teal and white shaded floral stretch crepe knit (95% Polyester, 5% Spandex) from Joann Fabrics, and Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Deep Turquoise #630. 

Completely unnecessary

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: As I mentioned above, I cut out a size L upper body, did a cheater FBA by curving out the seam at the bust line*, and tapered out to an XL at the waist and hips. I also cut out a larger sleeve in XL because I've been having problems with the upper sleeves fitting small. After the dress was basted together, I tried it on. I didn't need to add extra in the body above or at the waist; it only made the dress look dumpy. I should have done a proper FBA; I needed more room above and at the bustline.

I went back and cut the sides down to a sized L. I kept the alteration at the armscyes for the wider sleeves. I have to ding the pattern on the sleeve drafting; something strange is happening. There is too much fabric at the back of the sleeve, and it pulls at the front. I've never seen this in a knit pattern. I should have used a tried-and-true armscye/sleeve combo from another pattern. After some thought, I decided to sew that seam 1/8" deeper.

The most important detail on this dress was the V-neck and achieving a smooth intersection there. I pinned and hand-basted to avoid puckering, and I am incredibly proud of the finished neckband. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I might sew it again after I transfer the armscye/sleeve combo from another pattern, probably New Look 6402 (originally New Look 6838). All bodies are unique, and this pattern may not work with mine. I would not stop anyone from buying this, as it has excellent neckline options, which was why I purchased it.

Conclusion: At the moment, this dress is a failure. It is hanging in my closet unfinished. I am debating removing the sleeves and recutting the armscye for either a new sleeve or a sleeveless dress. It's a very disappointing outcome.

Update: In the end, after the dress sat around unfinished for I don't even know how long, I stitched it up as-is. If I don't wear it, it will go to Goodwill. It is well-made and cute, though a bit short. If I can find an attractive way to extend the hem, I will keep it. If not, life is too short, and I have a huge queue of waiting projects.

*Do not do what I did; this only works on knit t-shirts. Also, I have found that I need a real FBA. I finally used an online bra calculator and discovered I'm a D instead of the C cup I thought I was! That's a big difference in a form-fitting design.

Two Tried and True Twist Tops - Butterick 5429

  

Pattern: Butterick 5429 (2009) OOP

Pattern Description: Long and short sleeve tops with front neckline twist, dropped shoulders, and a stitched hem.

Pattern Sizing: Size BB (8-10-12-14) I originally cut and made this pattern years ago in a size 8, despite being larger than the pattern recommended, because of the ease. Years later, it still fits despite growing from a B-cup to a D-cup! 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the twist detail at the center front, making this a simple to with interest. 

Fabric Used: #1) Ponteroma knit in Winter White from deep stash, originally from Hancock Fabrics, 

#2) Pink Watercolor floral jersey knit (95% polyester, 5% Spandex), Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP All Purpose 100% polyester thread in #3530 Lilac

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Having made this before, I'm using an altered size 8 pattern. However, my last version still fits.  

White: This version is in a stable ponte, so I added 1/4" to each width-wise seam when I cut it out and stitched the seams at 1/2" instead of the pattern's prescribed 5/8" seam allowance.

Pink: This top is in cotton jersey, so I cut the top 1" larger in width, and added 1/2" to the length. The additional width was unnecessary.

This is a tried-and-true pattern only because it had already been adjusted. From the original, I had to remove some extra fabric hanging beneath the twist by scooping out the front seam, curving in from the bottom of the open twist to one inch at the middle, and and then blending out to the hem and the original seam.

As always, I found it much easier to handstitch the twisted loop edges since they would show when wearing, Otherwise, you might stretch out this section trying to stitch with the machine. I also handstitched the neckline and arm holes for neatness.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, and yes, I would recommend it if you can find a copy secondhand. 

Placed over an older version

Conclusion: An easy but interesting top that can be had if you are willing to do a little work. I would have made one more this time, but the repetitive hand sewing dampened my motivation. It's a very flattering top. In jersey, it drapes well, emphasizing an hourglass shape by following the body's curves 

Adult Life, Mess, and Soft Furnishings

A year ago I bought a velvet sofa and a long-held dream was finally achieved.

However, I was terrified to sit on it-- so true. This was justified as I'd already spilled on the homemade quilt I was using to protect it. Luckily, that was easily laundered, whereas it would not have been easy to clean the velvet upholstery. 

A chance pin on Pinterest revealed a solution: a sofa pad in a homey cottage style. This is what I needed -- pretty protection.

Etsy

W Concept

I tried to find a similar fabric to the inspiration but nothing was close. I had it in my mind that I wanted a small black-and-white check or a black-striped cotton ticking.

I also loved the idea of gingham but needed a fabric that could stand up to the extreme lounging happening on this piece of furniture. When those fabrics didn't materialize at Joann, I turned to finding a complementary heavier canvas fabric that would work in the space. Using my handy West Elm Tarragon velvet swatch I located a green canvas that almost matched and complemented the upholstery. I have a lot of luck with this particular shade of green.

Richloom Fiera Apple cotton canvas

How it came together:

Using the dimensions of my 76" Harris sofa bench cushion I knew I needed a cushion at least 66" x 22".  Pre-made ones were normally at least 72" which is more than the length of the cushion I need. Luckily, if using a 44/45" wide fabric that meant I could buy for the length (nearly 2 yards) and simply fold it in half lengthwise and stitch three sides. Easy-peasy!

 

Also lucky for me, when I moved I purchased 1/8" thick furniture pads from U-Haul and had six of them to store or give away. What if I cut one up to use as batting? 

When playing around with it I realized when folded over and over again into four layers one pad fit the needed dimensions almost perfectly. I only needed to cut an inch off the length to account for the seam allowances on the cushion cover.

 

To make the padding stable when inside the cover, I basted through the layers on at least two sides to eliminate it migrating once enclosed. 

On the canvas I stitched from the short side around to the other end and sewed an inch into that side. I made sure to reinforce all the corners and the ending point. I pressed my seams open, clipped the corners, and while holding a corner of the moving pad between my fingers with the open corner of the cover I turned the cushion inside out while inserting the cushion inside. Using quilting safety pins I secured the pad at one end and manipulated the rest to fill out the cushion evenly. Once turned, I pinned the other end to keep the pad in place for the next part.

  

The last step was stitching the open end closed. I had originally thought I would tuft the cushion like the inspirations above but decided against it. This will allow removal for laundering. Knowing me, I will need to do that for sure. It will also work as a protective "mattress topper" for when guests sleep over. Without the back cushions on the sofa makes a comfortable bed.

Thanks to this project I feel secure in knowing that my sofa will survive living with me and look great while doing it!

Update: Months later, searching for examples of sofa toppers, I discovered that West Elm had the exact product (they call it a sofa overlay) I was looking to make! Funny. Though of course their version only fit their larger sofas at 84" x23" and cost $130. But its the same idea and it's for one of their sofas.

West Elm Reversible Sofa Overlay