Friday, August 02, 2019

Go On...Get it, Vogue!!

Well, McCall's Patterns is on fire this month! Their latest Vogue pattern release is full of modern and creative clothing with angles, fabric manipulation, and asymmetry...just the way I like it!. I loved so many of the designs this time.

However, I want to focus on the obvious Duchess of Sussex/Meghan Markle love story they have been creating since 2018:



How could you miss recognizing Meghan's Oscar de la Renta peplum blouse as Vogue 1636? I loved this piece when she wore it to an engagement in Fall 2018 and was hoping someone would knock it off!



Vogue 9373 was in the last pattern release as a version of her Stella McCartney wedding reception dress, having been simplified by the elimination of the open back and train.




Don't forget that in an earlier release there had first been Vogue 9355, an obvious homage to her "last night as a single woman" Roland Mouret "Barwick" dress.  It could also be adapted to resemble the gray "Clover" dress she wrote in New Zealand. I own this pattern and hope to make both!



I would also include Vogue 9293, whose first view, when made without the tie belt is similar to the Carolina Herrera denim dress HRH wore to a polo match in 2018. All one would need to do is widen and lower the neckline and replace the attached bow with a wide belt.

What I love is that the below patterns could easily reproduce a DIY wardrobe worthy of any Windsor duchess:


Vogue 1631 is a take on the "Royston" dress by Roland Mouret, whose designs have been worn by both the Duchess of Sussex and Cambridge.
Vogue 1649

However, Vogue 1649 is ALL Duchess of Cambridge! Made in a solid color other than black, this could be one of her many Alexander McQueen coats, don't you agree? In fact, in a lighter color it would look just like this one:


Ok, I admit, I probably missed a few less flashy designs, but I'm a big fan of what Vogue is doing. To be honest, the wardrobe is the only thing I envy about being a royal, so thanks for helping a thrifty girl out!

Wednesday, June 12, 2019

New Baby, Old Doll


One of the display-only dolls recently

Thirty-some years ago, my two sisters and a friend of theirs bought three handmade dolls from a vendor. These dolls, with long curly hair and dressed in prairie dresses with lace trimmings, sat on display in their homes for years until my elder sister's little boy C. discovered her doll Dessa* and made her his own.

Poor Dessa, NOT display-only...

Fast forward to last Christmas, C., the now grown-up man was expecting his first child. Wanting his daughter to inherit his old pal, he rescued Dessa from the basement crawl space in which she'd been living. No longer pretty, she now had less-than-bouncy curls, barely attached limbs, and her dress was severely faded, the gingham pattern on it barely recognizable. By the end of that visit, we needed a Ziploc bag to hold all the loose strands of her mohair yarn hair. This doll needed vital reconstruction.

That is where I came in.

My job was to rehabilitate this doll for the next generation. Through the process, I would find that I don't like working on projects that I did not initiate.
I was tempted to change so much, from her hair, her facial expression, to the construction of her clothes even. However, I wanted to honor my nephew's childhood memories by handing over a doll that he still recognized.


Deep Cleanse


First steps: knowing she was in a basement crawl space for the last twenty years, I knew I was not going to hand this doll over without a deep cleanse. But how was I going to do that? She was in horrible shape, her limbs were barely stitched on, and the hair was falling out.


Reminded of how one washes fine lingerie, I decided to use a pillowcase, folding her up inside, and tying a knot down near the bottom. After a machine wash, I put her through the dryer several times to avoid any possibility of mold developing inside. It worked like a charm.


Visible Wear n' Tear





Over the years, my sister did little fixes to Dessa by putting in stitches when she noticed some wear and tear. However, the stitches were not the same color or uniform in size, and in the end, were not sustainable. Now it was time to secure and reinforce her limbs --- by first taking them off!

Poor Dessa!

 Reinforcement




When I was ready, I threaded my needle with matching thread and got to work with a slipstitch reconnecting each limb fresh, tucking in the fabric and polyfill stuffing as I went along.


State of the Hair

Original condition was similar to this.

Um, yeah...

Dessa's hair seems to have taken the brunt of his love obviously. He had loved her fiercely or perhaps one of the families' dogs spent some time dragging her around?

I tried to source her hair but didn't try too hard. Internet research made me think it was mohair, but I eventually decided to make do with her existing hair and the contents of that little Ziploc bag. I was tempted to remove it all and replace it with a clever felt "wig" but I wanted her to be the same doll my nephew remembered. My process was to apply the longest strands at her forehead, and some underneath her temples down to where her ears would be. Following tips in some dollmaking reference books, I stitched her hair down at the back along her nape to achieve some control but still allowing her hair to have movement. In the end, I added removable ribbon bows at her temples.


Best Face Forward

Perhaps the most noticeable and visually important step, Dessa's tiny dot eyes were too small, insignificant, and unwelcoming. I decided to boost their size...the better to watch over my grand-niece.

A little creepy, right?

Great improvement!

I'm proud of this rehab job and hope she lasts another 30+ years and in better condition. Of course, I made her some new clothes. A post on those are coming up soon...but right now I'm making a special something for my grand-nephew who is turning 1 in two weeks. Stay tuned...

*Dessa - short for Odessa, my late mother's name

Thursday, April 11, 2019

Stacked Triangle Skirt Round 2 - New Look 6977


Pattern: New Look 6977 (2010)

Pattern Description: Misses' pull-on slim/full skirts, pants, and raglan-sleeve top. A Just4Knits pattern.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (6-16) I used size 16 as a base and added width to the side seams to match those of a size 20.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely, as there's not that much to them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The simple ease of this view; this is basic skirt construction.


Fabric Used: 60" Black Triangle Square Print on Off White 10 oz. weight Ponte de Roma (45% Rayon/50% Poly/5% Spandex) from Girl Charlee and 2" black Dritz soft waistband elastic (taken from the original skirt that this one replaces!)


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I thought that because I had gained two sizes since last using this pattern, I had to add some width. I ended up adding 3" total, which was actually an inch more than I needed. I reused the waistband pattern piece for Simplicity 1163  knowing that it fit my current measurements.

I also cut the skirt out halfway between the two lengths, so it is 3" longer than view C and gave it a 1-1/4" hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I've now made both skirts in this pattern and made the top three separate times, so yes, I would recommend this pattern.


Conclusion: This skirt might seem familiar. I had to replace this skirt when the fabric pilled horribly and discolored over time. Not surprising as I bought it on sale ($1.99 per yard!) and this same fabric keeps going on sale. I had more of this fabric because I originally meant to make a matching top but decided against having my entire body covered in this very loud design. I know it won't last for a long time but I'll enjoy it while it does!

Friday, March 22, 2019

Deep Sea Sweatshirt TNT Win!

Well, this time I won't be doing the pattern review format because I didn't use a commercial pattern for this at all!


Needing more warm clothes for work, I chose to finally take apart a favorite sweatshirt that had outlived its use as an actual out-of-house, seen-in-public item of clothing. I mean, seriously, it looked gross even when freshly washed! The off-white fleece had turned dishwasher beige, the texture had changed, and last but not least, some type of oil (probably coconut) had spilled all over the front leaving a disgusting permanent stain. But it was so warm and cosy!

Farewell, my love...

In the picture above, it had been freshly washed. When brand new, it had actually been the same color as that pattern cutting board. Yup. What could possibly do that to a fabric?

While procrastinating about another project (so what's new?) I pulled out my seam ripper and got to work. I laid out the pieces and traced them off on my lovely Pellon Easy Pattern paper and immediately cut out a new version.


So this is essentially a rub off of a 15+ year old L.L. Bean v-neck fleece sweatshirt. Amazingly, the size tag of this one is an XS but it fits exactly as I want it to fit now even though I must be at least 15 pounds heavier than when I bought it! However, having seen how much the fabric texture/color has changed, I wouldn't be surprised if it had also  stretched out strangely.


For my replacement fabric, I choose this 59" Anti-pill plush fleece (100% polyester) in Biscay Bay from Jo-ann, that I bought in 2017 after I was drawn to this amazing Mediterranean blue color*. I stitched it together with a matching thread, Gutermann 100% natural cotton thread in Dark Turquoise #7540.


Of course,  the fit turned out just like the original. However,  instead of the basic topstitching I used a zig-zag stitch at the neckline and on the hems for a fun touch.

Another difference is it didn't have that ribbon treatment at the back neckline (see L.L. Bean label pic) because I didn't have the patience to figure it out. Perhaps, on the next one? Anyone know of a tutorial on how to do that? Update: I just found out how to do it in the instructions for the FREE Stellan Tee by French Navy patterns.



Oh, and this particular anti-pill plush fleece feels amazing and has a great weight to it. I recommend it.

That was long before I chose that same color for one of my winter coats and then ordered two stretch crepes (one pattern, one solid) in that same shade!