'Song To The Siren' Slip - Vogue 2745

Pattern: Vogue 2745 (2003)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, bias, pullover A-line slip has self-lined bodice and ribbon shoulder straps.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes (14-16-18) I made the bodice and waist in size 14 and a 16 at the hips, according to the finished garment measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? It could not have been easier to make.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the simplicity of the design but loved the structure of the lined bodice and that I could use satin ribbon instead of having to make tiny straps.

Fabric Used: 2 1/2 yards 52" Spectrum Lines India Silk (100% polyester) from Jo-Ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% natural cotton thread in Dark Turquoise #7540, Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP polyester thread in Taupe Clair #8550, 1-1/4 yards 100% polyester 1/4" Offray ribbon in Magenta.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: First things first, knowing I would likely need to alter the pattern pieces, I traced the bodice with Pellon 830 Easy Pattern tracing cloth which is like a translucent woven interfacing. It's very durable and probably could be sewn together like Swedish tracing paper but I chose to use it for tracing only.

Thread tacks for pattern markings

Muslin bodice

I started with cutting and making a muslin of the bodice. Unfortunately, I used an annoyingly slippery fabric. It shimmied out of shape after being cut so I really had no idea how accurate my decisions were based on that muslin.

 

However, from observing that "test" garment I cut the pieces in size 16 (finished garment measurement of 39.5" means 3" ease! !) so of course it was too big but I was just too scared to do otherwise because I'm a C-cup instead of the B-cup draft for this pattern. I didn't want to have to do a FBA for a slip! I decided to keep the size 16 for height and even added a half inch at the bottom for my additional "fullness" but I cut a size 14 for width, and hoped that would work. Luckily, it did!

The final fabric was SO much easier to cut out despite having to be cut as a single layer. As it turned out it was also easier to sew and press. I adore this fabric, seriously.

After sewing up the bodice and stay-stitching the skirt sections I pinned the pieces together and realized I had made a rookie mistake and hadn't cut the top part of the skirt down to match the new size 14 width of the bodice...duh.

So I recut the fabric and the pattern. I then sat down for a hand basting session to join the bodice to the front skirt, (overlapping a bit at center) and attach the facing to the back skirt. I believe basting by hand is the best way to tame any slippery fabric before sewing it by machine.

I slipped the dress on again. You know, my fear of a dress not fitting over my hips is real y'all! I have to check them all the time especially since the muslin for this was cut from the discards of a disappointing wader with that exact problem.

Even though this was made from polyester I still let the dress (with the sides loosely basted) hang for 24 hours, just in case. It did not stretch so I finished the side seams. The next steps to complete were the hand stitching to secure the back facing and attachment of the straps to the back.

Check out that delicate baby hem!

Of course there was the temptation to not hem the slip since the hem was cut by rotary blade; however, I knew the fabric would behave amazingly so I made a narrow hem on the dress.

In the end, there was still some gaping and I did have to tack little darts on the sides of the cup. It was nothing even slightly scandalous but I just didn't like how loose it felt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, definitely. It may take some time and patience to track down a copy of this c. 2003 pattern on Etsy. It is extremely flattering because of the bias (I may have preened a bit in my mirror) and easier to complete because the straps were made from ribbon and the construction of any fiddly rouleau loops was not needed.

 

Conclusion: This was exactly what I needed and wanted. It worked as a two-in-one garment, which I wore both as a stand-alone dress for all the pre-wedding setup and as a slip under the main silk dress (also from this pattern) for the wedding and reception.

Links:
Surprise! Actually Buying Fabric With a Purpose!
A Change To The Wedding Guest Dress
Wedding Guest Dress - Finalizing Details
''Rollin' In The Deep' Green Frock -Vogue 2745

*Song To the Siren, This Mortal Coil, 1983 (by Tim Buckley, 1970)

Mad Plaid Shirt Dress - McCall's 6885

Pattern: McCall's 6885 (2014)

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, pullover dress with collar, collar/front band, front pleat, pockets, tie ends, and rolled sleeves with button tab.

Pattern Sizing: Size B5 (8-10-12-14-16) View D. I cut out a size 12 bodice, sleeves, and a size 14 from the waist down.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were. I was initially worried about the front placket but it wasn’t as difficult as I thought it might be. Everything else was pretty self explanatory.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the casual feel of the dress, how you can just throw it on and be well dressed.

  

Fabric Used: 2 3/4" yd Plaiditudes Brushed Cotton in Blue, Green and Brown, $4.99 per yard from Jo-Ann Fabrics; Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Green #748 and Deep Turquoise #630; Gutermann topstitching thread in Cranberry #435; four 5/8” buttons from La Mode in red #4359 and two 5/8” teal buttons from my late mother’s stash.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?: The only difference is that I decided to eliminate the shirt-tail hem and just take it straight across.

The instructions called for interfacing in the placket, tabs, and collar. I put together the tabs first without interfacing and liked the thickness. I did choose to use it on the front placket because it would be buttoned and unbuttoned continuously. However, I decided to cut new pieces after realizing the fused fabric would be too stiff to turn them inside out, despite it being a light knit interfacing.

The placket instructions were simple and clear. The only problem I had was my own fault. The plaid on the placket piece did not match or complement the front of the dress. I totally missed the fact that I needed to add plaid match lines to that pattern piece too. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough fabric to reposition the piece or cut it on the bias so it looks a bit weird and interrupts the matched plaid that I do have from the front pattern piece. I did however; remember to cut the front breast pockets on the bias.

The biggest problem I had with this project is how easily this fabric distorted and the plaid would get off grain visually. I had to sew the pockets on twice despite having already basted them in place first. Because of the aforementioned problems with the plaid and distortion I chose not to use the red topstitching thread on the placket and pockets which would have highlighted the irregularities.

I was quickly moving along on this project until I noticed that the sleeves looked a bit narrow. Trying on a basted sleeve confirmed my fear... it WAS! Even using a 3/8" seam allowance, it was snug for normal arm movements and definitely tight if the sleeves were rolled up to use the tabs. I was not excited about creating a sleeveless flannel dress for winter. In addition, after noticing how the fabric frayed easily, I took apart the sleeves and completed them in tiny French seams.

Update: As it turns out, the sleeve width will be fine as long as I don’t layer the dress over another top (like I originally wanted). When I wore it Christmas day, I left the sleeves full-length instead.

The fraying fabric inspired me to create flat-fell seams at the shoulders and side seams as a way to extend the life of the dress and make the interior attractive.

Flat fell seams at shoulder and side seams

There was also a bit of hand-sewing (which I love!) included in this project, the inner seam of the collar, the plackets, and the sleeve and skirt hems.

Forgive the wrinkles!

Buttonholes scare me! I’ve avoided putting them in project for years and with this one, I didn’t even cut them open when I wore it the first time. I sewed the bottom two buttons on top of the buttonholes and left the top two open. I also didn’t cut open the sleeve tab buttonholes either. If I can avoid ever cutting them open I will.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I may, only if I use a solid fabric, and I would go up one size for the sleeve pattern piece.

Perfectly accessorized with a earlier handmade cowl. 

Conclusion: I was immediately attracted to this view when I first saw this pattern but I didn't think of making it in a plaid flannel until I saw this shirtdress by Grainline Studio and became obsessed. Now, I have my own because of the power to make your own clothes!

Chasing Summer Dress - Simplicity 2591

 

Pattern: Simplicity 2591 (2009) OOP

Pattern Description: Dress with princess seaming, front pockets hidden in a gathered skirt panel, back zipper, and neckline and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing: Size K5 (8-10-12-14-16) View B I cut a size 12.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Amazingly so. I thought the side seams combined with hidden pockets bit would be tricky but it worked out perfectly.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? When I think of casual wear I think of smock-like dresses with lots of useful pockets. This dress gives me large pockets for practicality and a defined waist for feminine prettiness, which is considered a complete win in my book.


Fabric Used: A 44/45" juvenile cotton print from Joann Fabrics, 22" Robin zipper in Bone, thread, Pellon Easy-Knit (AK130) fusible knit interfacing, and a hook and eye closure.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?: I started by marking the darts first with tracing paper and then thread basting. I like the precision of this step and thought some of the instructions for the pocket and bodice construction would be confusing so having accurate match points was important for success. I found the construction to be very straight forward and I zipped through it, putting together the front and back quickly before reaching the zipper insertion.

Thread tracing at pocket opening.

I chose to use a centered zipper instead of doing a lapped one as instructed. I'm quite proud of my centered zippers...no invisible ones for me either, thank you very much.

Basting the shoulder and side seams, I eagerly tried on the dress and found that it fit...perfectly in the part I was most worried about, the waist portion. I may not be able to "pig out" in this dress but it definitely has the hour-glass thing going for it. The only problem was the neckline was gaping in front and in back so that had to be addressed. I not only had to alter the shoulder seams by stitching a larger seam allowance towards the neck but also by creating some back shoulder darts (which
I should incorporate in all my woven makes from now on). I was NOT going to take out that gorgeous centered zipper just to alter the back bodice seam.

Made alterations to the paper pattern for the future.

So in order to fix the front neckline, I consulted my vintage sewing books (all of them!) and ended up
trying two small darts towards both shoulders which did not work. I ended up making two pleats on the front shoulders and gathering the back shoulder to fit. This took out about a one inch width from the shoulders, just emphasizing how I  really need to use Patternmaking to create a bodice sloper sooner than later.

 

Dress front with gathers and pockets.

The dress is cleverly constructed with the side seam panel combining with the pocket construction.  When made in a less obvious print or in a solid fabric, the pockets could be completely hidden and just thought to be part of the princess seams.

Side seam and pocket pivot point.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would and will make it again. The pattern has a few different variations and I definitely can see it made with sleeves and in thicker fabrics for the colder months. I highly recommend it for its playfulness factor too.

Similar novelty print dress from Mod Cloth.

 

 

 

Conclusion: I first saw this dress in seersucker on All Buttoned Up's blog and loved the simple utilitarian feel of her version. Eventually, I found out that many sewists had also discovered this pattern. Unfortunately, it is now out of print; which is strange for such a popular pattern but I'm sure you could still find it online.

Now, this may be the only item in my closet that I might be "too old" for, but that's only because of the fabric print. I found it in the children's section of Jo-Anns and could not resist the bright colors and the floral cuteness or "kawaii" spirit. I mean, come on...colorful flowers, ladybugs, butterflies, and bumble bees! This will be my off-hours outfit for the weekend, not a work dress, I assure you. Well, maybe on Fridays...

*The working title of this dress was originally Toujour jeune d'esprit = still young at heart because of the print. However, my procrastination made the new title more appropriate.

Electric Denim Mini Skirt - Grainline Moss #32001

Some background: I start writing my reviews even before I cut the fabric, recording the description, sizing, notion info, and such. This particular one was started over a year ago and I added to it as I worked on the skirt. Great stuff was collected. However, a few days ago, I accidentally deleted the entire post!!!!! I cannot tell you how frustrated this makes me. So loads of details are now gone forever *. So, below, is everything that I remembered. Also, forgive the horrible finished skirt photos (taken on my cell phone).

Pattern: Grainline Studio Moss skirt #32001 (2012)

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted skirt in two lengths sits slightly below the natural waist and features a fly front, button closure, and back yoke. View B offers an optional hem band for length.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 0-18 and I cut a size 10.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, however when it came to the fly zipper I chose to follow alternative instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the modern styling and the contoured yoke and waistband.

Fabric Used: Sew Classic 10 oz. Bull Denim (100% cotton) in Moroccan Blue from Joann Fabrics at $12.99 a yd.; a remnant of this cotton floral; Coats & Clark 9" zipper in Dark Teal #279; Gutermann 100% Polyester thread in Deep Turquoise #630; 100% cotton thread in Dark Turquoise #7540; Pellon Easy-Knit (AK130) fusible knit interfacing; hook and eye closure; and a gifted 3/4" wood button from Tibet.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?:  My waist and hip measurements are inches apart and I have an impressive booty, so my first muslin made it clear that some alterations would be needed for the skirt to fit me correctly. Luckily, I was able to contact Jen Beeman, the pattern’s designer and ask for her help. She was able to help me (using hand drawn illustrations!) draft a change to the yoke and back skirt that accommodated my figure without having to add darts to the pattern. See here for that solution.

To eliminate bulkiness in certain areas of the skirt, I cut the pocket and waistband facings from a coordinating cotton print.

I topstitched the skirt using regular stitching thread; however, with future skirts I will use either a complementary or contrasting color in a thicker thread meant for topstitching.

Having solved the fitting problem, I moved onto installing the zipper. I found the Grainline instructions clear but also realized that in my fabric the area could end up bulky.

Instead I used the instructions from my Vogue 9745 pants pattern. In this easy Vogue Elements method, the fly extensions are cut in one with the pant front pattern piece.

 

Therefore, I used the separate Grainline pattern piece to add the appropriate fabric to the fronts. Please note the wide size as I ended up cutting quite a bit of the width off later.

  

Because I do not own a serger I stitched my fly facing right sides together and turned it out. That 5/8 seam allowance resulted in a tiny, wee shield. Please note this if you construct yours without a serger to claim a much smaller seam allowance.

To finish the waistband, I again turned to Lisa G’s awesome Perfect Corners on Waistbands tutorial.

At the last minute, I decided that the skirt was too long, at my knee and decided to cut it. I ended up cutting off about three inches in 1/2”-1” inch increments which resulted in a   long skirt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, now that I have a great fitting pattern, I can see making many more of these, in corduroy and in wild cotton prints. This skirt is a gem for prints especially if you are willing to match the print at center front.

  

 

 

Conclusion: I now have a cool and versatile skirt that can transition throughout the season by just adding tights. It also adds some vibrant color to my wardrobe.

Great thanks to Jen Beeman for the great customer service and help! Without her help, I would not have this awesome fit.

Update: Months later, I have finally added my fabulous button from Nepal, isn't it perfect? (and I have five more!) Thanks, Angie!

Messing With My Moss Muslin Part 1
More On My Moss Muslin, Part 2
Making New Muslin For My Moss, Part 3
Quick Grainline Moss Update, Part 3.5

*However, strange as it is, I did hang on to the zipper package, still have the thread, and I keep all of my fabric purchase receipts from JoAnn and Hancocks. Why? I have no idea but it definitely worked out this time so no reason to stop anytime soon.