Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Look Ma, I'm In Vogue Magazine!

The Vogue Patterns catalog, that is!

See this pattern here?
Vogue 9106

Look a little closer...

That's my line credit for having lent McCall Patterns my copy of vintage Vogue S-4305 now reissued as Vogue 9106. They thanked me with this mention and five patterns of my choosing. See this earlier post for details.


The reissued pattern was released with the recent Spring patterns. I am so excited as it's now possible for me to make this dress for myself as my copy was not in my current size. I have been in love with the pattern illustration for years now. However, seeing the versions made up, the magic is a bit diluted, the prints chosen hide the most important details; the sections of gathers under the bust and on the skirts sides. I'm also confused about the type of net crinoline they used with the dresses. I feel they went too stiff or too big when I always imagined the skirt falling a bit more organically.

I also noticed that on the models, the gathers were not properly below the bosom but directly on them and the waist was a bit high. I'll have to check and perhaps add length in the torso for my version.

Invisible above, right?

Now about those five free patterns. You will not believe how stressful it was making those choices. There were only two givens and then there were about 6-7 others jockeying for the other three spots. I ended up with two dress patterns in shapes I don't already have (Vogue 8665) or could not have drafted on my own (Vogue 1234 from Sandra Betzina.)

Then I chose two made-for-knits top patterns (loving me some knits right now!), one with interesting raw edge seam finishes, Vogue 8925...

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8925-products-47552.php?page_id=866&search_control=display&list=search  http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8952-products-47832.php?page_id=866&search_control=display&list=search

and another that is a substitution for one that I really wanted that had the same type of seam finishes. Strangely, the current Vogue 8952 is almost identical to an earlier Vogue release from alice + olivia, Vogue 1261. The designer pattern went out of print before I could buy it. During this selection process, I happened to notice that the tops were the same shapes and styles (the cowl neck, both raglan and dolman sleeves), the only difference being the absence of raw edged seams on the designer versions. However, I plan to apply the similar finishes from Vogue 8925 to the non-designer pattern versions.


My last selection was another given, Vogue 1411, the unique Sandra Betzina knit pants pattern that I want to make immediately in multiple colors. Check out that crazy seaming!

Vogue 1411
So, now, all I have to do is wait patiently. It's already been six months so what's a few more weeks?

Just another reminder, if you have any amazing vintage Vogue, Butterick or McCall's pattern (especially from when they were just called McCall) please consider lending them so that reproductions can be made. All you have to do is email images of those patterns to the McCall Pattern Company in care of leslies@mccallpattern.com If your pattern is selected, they will then contact you about sending the paper pattern to their offices. I thank you in advance!

Friday, April 24, 2015

Blue Steel Tee - Grainline Scout #31002

Pattern: Grainline Scout Woven Tee #31002 (2011)

Pattern Description: A t-shirt with capped sleeves and scoop neck. Fitted at the shoulders, this top falls into a loose shape below the bust.

Pattern Sizing: Size six, smaller than my usual size because I was using a knit instead of a woven.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It is a simple idea but in a modern shape; interesting and still an easy and fast sew.

Fabric Used: One yard of navy blue and heather gray half-inch striped (50% cotton, 25% rayon, 25% poly) 7 oz. knit from Girl Charlee. (see conclusion below)

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The only change I made was cutting out a smaller size than my woven versions.  The knit I ordered ended being much thinner than I expected. Because of that and the wish to match the stripes I cut it out in a single layer. Surprisingly, when completed the finished shirt impressed me by being tres sexy because of the fabrics drape.

Making sure the stripes will match.
I chose to cut the neck binding out perpendicular to the shirt's stripes for a fun contrast. In a nice coincidence, the left hand side of the band matched up perfectly with the stripes on that section of the shirt. The neckline does seem to bag out a bit at the front, so I may try some iron steam or another line of topstitching to put it back into place.
Self fabric neck binding.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will make this again, I am obviously a fan of this little pattern, having made it many times before in woven fabrics. This is my first Scout in a knit and now I can't wait to make more knit versions.

Conclusion: It's a design that looks very different when made in various types of prints and weights of fabric. I particularly like how the shape drapes and falls in a knit.

As it turns out, I was initially disappointed in Girl Charlee because their description of this knit as "light to medium weight" was not accurate. I was expecting a more substantial knit, however, this is more of a tissue knit weight, more accurately described as "light-weight". However, now that it is finished I really like this weight and the way that it feels and drapes. Now that I know what to expect, I will probably buy more of this 7 oz. weight knit from them.

Monday, April 20, 2015

Andes Mint Striped Tee - New Look 6838

Pattern: New Look 6838 (reissued as New Look 6402)
Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline and sleeve options and drawstring pants.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (XS-XL) I cut a small, which corresponds to size 10-12. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except I made it with shorter sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the wide neckline and the curved back seam which took care of the swayback situation.

Fabric Used: One yard brown and jade striped 60" wide ponte de roma (80% poly, 15% rayon, 5% Lycra) from Mood Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: When I made this pattern the first time I had fitting issues and had to alter the paper pattern extensively. This time the fitting issues were all my fault. I mistakenly thought the ponte would be so different stretch wise from the interlock I used the first time and originally added a half inch to each side seam. Big mistake, which I didn't realize until I had stitched it together, so there was a lot of unpicking and then I re-cut the top in the original size.

Since I only had one yard, I could not have full-length sleeves. However, I chose to cut them out as long as possible and make the decision later. As it turned out, I hemmed them just below the elbow, so more than half but still not three-quarter length. A simple turn-under at the neckline, sleeves, hems, and I was done.

Check out those matching stripes!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can not recommend the pattern as is since I had to do a major reworking of the original pattern. However, the one great thing about this pattern is that the back pattern piece included a shaped center back seam which addressed any swayback issues. I suggest looking for similar patterns in order to create the best fitted t-shirts.

Yes, there is a center seam here! Stripe matching, for the win!
Conclusion: Another great boatneck t-shirt and the first one done out of my striped tee sewing binge.