Twist Yet Again Top - Irmchen (Burdastyle)

Pattern: "Let's Twist Again..." pattern by Irmchen, available at Burdastyle, FREE!

Pattern Description: Loose, asymmetrical top with twisted side draping and over-long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: German size 42, according to directions.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? YES!

Were the instructions easy to follow? So easy, they weren't even provided!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It has a simple shape, yet when made up it is unusual and was an extremely easy and fast sew.This will be my second time making this pattern.


Fabric Used: 2 yards of 60" Shitake Brown/Heather Gray half-inch striped jersey knit (50% cotton, 25% poly, 25% rayon) from Girl Charlee, which was on sale for $1.50 a yard!

Ignore my belly in this picture, please.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: As before, I added length to the sleeves when I cut it out while also adding a bit of width because the original top's sleeves were a bit tight at the wrists. I cut both the pattern and fabric out a little larger than the pattern piece and chose to sew a 1/2" seam allowances.

I sewed a small narrow zig-zag while slightly stretching the fabric. I then went over that stitching a second time for strength. The sleeve hems were folded over 1/4" twice and slip stitched. I did the same for the neckline and for this version, I chose to attach the optional hem band included with the pattern.

Multiple pins guarantee matched stripes.

The other side: ta da!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! This item is so quick to make, the only thing that took time was the hand stitching. I may not add the hem band to any others because I think it brings attention to my expanding waistline more than I'd like. However, the best thing is that the pattern is still free after all this time.

Conclusion: I now have another version of this top that will go with some other items in my wardrobe. I love how it is a t-shirt to just grab and put on and an interesting top. The first one I made was from a knit that had some Lycra content while this one is a basic cotton knit. If I make this again, I will probably choose another beefy stretch knit as this feels a bit flimsy for this style. But I still like this version and how could I not, the price of this top (not including tape and printer paper costs), was under $4.00!

Mod Stripe Dress - McCall's 6886

Pattern: McCall's 6886 (2014)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, pullover dress with neckline and sleeve length variations.

Pattern Sizing: E5 (14-16-18-20-22) I cut a size 14 tapering down to a size 18 at the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, after my alterations and changes, it does.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much. If alteration had not been needed, it would have been a very quick sew.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Fabric Used: 60" jade and mustard striped ponte de roma (80% polyester/15% rayon/ 5% Spandex) from Mood Fabrics, item # 107912.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Well, for starters, I made sure to use my correct measurements and to choose my size according to the pattern's finished garment measurements. Even then, changes had to be made.

I found the neckline to be a bit too wide and the depth far too long, about an inch too deep. Therefore, I had to reduce the length from shoulder line to underarm.

I've seen the versions online and noticed that the dress fit so many different body types and sizes; however, the extreme curve of my back did not work with the line of the dress. My first thought was to create a false seam down the back of the dress by folding it down the center and sewing a curved seam to alter the dress. However, I chose to create two side darts instead. There was some try and error as to how long the darts should be. in the end there was still some extra length above the waist but nothing I couldn't live with. I just need to remember to remove it from the pattern.

When I basted the dress it was hard to imagine the final fit and there were drag lines at the underarm area that I hoped I could remove. I decided to attach the sleeves flat. This way I could see if the drag lines disappear when the shoulder seam no longer hung down and it would also make it easier to enlarge or decrease the side seams easily, if needed.

What this showed was that the dress was still too large in the bodice at the front, the back fit perfectly. I undid ALL of the basting, pulled out the pattern again and recut the bodice to a size 14, including the armscye. Once the sleeves were reattached, the majority of the drag lines had been removed.

It was easy to hem the sleeves and skirt with a simple zig-zag line of stitching in order to preserve the stretch.

However, the fold over and stitch method was not ideal for the neckline and I decided to create a neck band, which would also raise the scoop neckline to where I would feel more comfortable. I chose to cut the neckline band at 26" for a 30" neckline.

The neck  band's three layers were difficult for my machine, I had to use the manual control to slowly topstitch the neckline but it did result in an almost perfect neckband. I then steamed the band to shrink it in tighter for a more secure fit.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would now since I have altered the pattern. I would love to try out the v-neck option with short sleeves next. For me it was not the easy TNT pattern that others swear it to be but it was fairly simple to alter. So I would recommend trying it as it may work out easier for someone else.

I believe that the back shoulders are too wide because of those irritating diagonal wrinkles. I also believe the armscye is too high because the upper arms seem to be twisting under the arm towards the front. Also, as seen in the picture below, the back waist is too long and a more extensive sway back reduction is needed.
 

Conclusion: I like the dress, but its not perfect. I already had to make a lot of changes to make it to this point but there will have to be more in its future if I ever want it to be a TNT pattern.I would love to be able to whip up a knit dress whenever I wanted but the time is not now or at least not with this pattern. Sigh...

I Earned My Stripes in 2015!

Stripes, stripes, and more stripes!!!

I wrote a post in Feb of 2015 about how I have always wanted to wear striped shirts but couldn't afford the quality ones available in retail or find the right fabric in Hancocks or Jo-Ann Fabrics. However, 2015 was the year I made it happen. As you can see from the stack in the upper left corner below, the addition of more striped garments will continue into 2016.

Thank you Girl Charlee for your affordable knits and incredible sales (these were all $1.50 a yard!!!!)

A photo posted by lsaspacey (@metamorphpursuit) on Dec 27, 2015 at 5:38am PST

Dandy Candy Stripe Tee - Vogue 8952

Pattern: Vogue 8952 (2013)

Pattern Description: View B. Loose pullover tunic that is close-fitting through bust with cowl collar and shaped hemline.

Pattern Sizing: Size Y (xsm-sml-med) I chose the largest size because it matched my bust measurement. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes and no. The pattern illustration is deceptive, cutting the top out according to the pattern layout did not result in vertical stripes on the body and horizontal ones on the arms. If I had actually thought about it beforehand, I could have compensated and switched the pattern layout, but I did not.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, extremely easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was surprised that this particular pattern had NO finished garment measurements, not on the envelope or on the pattern pieces themselves. This was very disappointing. The pattern description explains that the top will fit close in the bust and it's obvious that it flows wider from that point but I would have liked to have known the amount of ease expected in the bust. I think that should be listed on every pattern, regardless.

Middle illustration is incorrect regarding the stripe placement.

Fabric Used: 2 yards red and white (50% cotton, 25% rayon, 25% poly) striped tissue knit from Girl Charlee.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Not being sure what the length would be (no finished measurements!) I chose not to make any changes before cutting the fabric. I attempted and succeeded in matching my stripes at the side seams and for a bonus (totally not planned!) when my arms are down they match all the way across!

Digging the stripe synchronicity!

I sewed the top together like I do all my knits, with two rows of stitching; one straight while stretching the fabric slightly, and then one narrow zigzag. I then finished the seams by pinking close to the zigzag stitching.

For some reason, the directions have the cowl attached only at the center back seam, meaning there is a raw edge and the wrong side of the fabric may be seen. This wasn't a problem with this knit but could be with other fabrics.

As it turns out, the Medium size did not have sufficient wearing ease and was too small. The sleeves are tight and were I to reach up suddenly I would surely rip a seam. Therefore, this top will serve as a muslin. I don't have a problem with that because I feel the horizontal stripes make me seem a bit more "boob-tacular" than I feel comfortable.

Last but not least: At the very end of sewing, while trimming the seam allowances, I snipped into the fabric below the cowl neckline! Ughhhh ... Some suspicious darning has taken place and is barely noticeable but still...this isn't one of my favorite makes.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I will use this pattern again but not this view. I would say the pattern fits small and you should first measure the flat pattern pieces to see if the amount of ease will work for you, especially the circumference of your bicep and wrists.

Conclusion: As sewn, this pattern did not flatter my figure; however, I may like this pattern once I try it in a larger size and keep the hem from ending at my widest point. My initial interest in the pattern was to make it out of heavier fabrics such as sweater knits and I will still try out that idea in the future.

Blue Steel Tee - Grainline Scout #31002

 

Pattern: Grainline Scout Woven Tee #31002 (2011)

Pattern Description: A t-shirt with capped sleeves and scoop neck. Fitted at the shoulders, this top falls into a loose shape below the bust.

Pattern Sizing: Size six, smaller than my usual size because I was using a knit instead of a woven.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It is a simple idea but in a modern shape; interesting and still an easy and fast sew.

Fabric Used: One yard of navy blue and heather gray half-inch striped (50% cotton, 25% rayon, 25% poly) 7 oz. knit from Girl Charlee. (see conclusion below)

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The only change I made was cutting out a smaller size than my woven versions.  The knit I ordered ended being much thinner than I expected. Because of that and the wish to match the stripes I cut it out in a single layer. Surprisingly, when completed the finished shirt impressed me by being tres sexy because of the fabrics drape.

Making sure the stripes will match.

I chose to cut the neck binding out perpendicular to the shirt's stripes for a fun contrast. In a nice coincidence, the left hand side of the band matched up perfectly with the stripes on that section of the shirt. The neckline does seem to bag out a bit at the front, so I may try some iron steam or another line of topstitching to put it back into place.

Self fabric neck binding.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will make this again, I am obviously a fan of this little pattern, having made it many times before in woven fabrics. This is my first Scout in a knit and now I can't wait to make more knit versions.

Conclusion: It's a design that looks very different when made in various types of prints and weights of fabric. I particularly like how the shape drapes and falls in a knit.

As it turns out, I was initially disappointed in Girl Charlee because their description of this knit as "light to medium weight" was not accurate. I was expecting a more substantial knit, however, this is more of a tissue knit weight, more accurately described as "light-weight". However, now that it is finished I really like this weight and the way that it feels and drapes. Now that I know what to expect, I will probably buy more of this 7 oz. weight knit from them.

Andes Mint Striped Tee - New Look 6838

 

Pattern: New Look 6838 (reissued as New Look 6402)
 
Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline and sleeve options and drawstring pants.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (XS-XL) I cut a small, which corresponds to size 10-12. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except I made it with shorter sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the wide neckline and the curved back seam which took care of the swayback situation.

 
Fabric Used: One yard brown and jade striped 60" wide ponte de roma (80% poly, 15% rayon, 5% Lycra) from Mood Fabrics.

 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: When I made this pattern the first time I had fitting issues and had to alter the paper pattern extensively. This time the fitting issues were all my fault. I mistakenly thought the ponte would be so different stretch wise from the interlock I used the first time and originally added a half inch to each side seam. Big mistake, which I didn't realize until I had stitched it together, so there was a lot of unpicking and then I re-cut the top in the original size.

Since I only had one yard, I could not have full-length sleeves. However, I chose to cut them out as long as possible and make the decision later. As it turned out, I hemmed them just below the elbow, so more than half but still not three-quarter length. A simple turn-under at the neckline, sleeves, hems, and I was done.

 

 

Check out those matching stripes!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can not recommend the pattern as is since I had to do a major reworking of the original pattern. However, the one great thing about this pattern is that the back pattern piece included a shaped center back seam which addressed any swayback issues. I suggest looking for similar patterns in order to create the best fitted t-shirts.

Yes, there is a center seam here! Stripe matching, for the win!

Conclusion: Another great boatneck t-shirt and the first one done out of my striped tee sewing binge.