Stacked Triangle Skirt Round 2 - New Look 6977

Pattern: New Look 6977 (2010)

Pattern Description: Misses' pull-on slim/full skirts, pants, and raglan-sleeve top. A Just4Knits pattern.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (6-16) I used size 16 as a base and added width to the side seams to match those of a size 20.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely, as there's not that much to them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The simple ease of this view; this is basic skirt construction.

Fabric Used: 60" Black Triangle Square Print on Off White 10 oz. weight Ponte de Roma (45% Rayon/50% Poly/5% Spandex) from Girl Charlee and 2" black Dritz soft waistband elastic (taken from the original skirt that this one replaces!)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I thought that because I had gained two sizes since last using this pattern, I had to add some width. I ended up adding 3" total, which was actually an inch more than I needed. I reused the waistband pattern piece for Simplicity 1163  knowing that it fit my current measurements.

I also cut the skirt out halfway between the two lengths, so it is 3" longer than view C and gave it a 1-1/4" hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I've now made both skirts in this pattern and made the top three separate times, so yes, I would recommend this pattern.

Conclusion: This skirt might seem familiar. I had to replace this skirt when the fabric pilled horribly and discolored over time. Not surprising as I bought it on sale ($1.99 per yard!) and this same fabric keeps going on sale. I had more of this fabric because I originally meant to make a matching top but decided against having my entire body covered in this very loud design. I know it won't last for a long time but I'll enjoy it while it does!

Oyster White Shell Top - New Look 6838

(This was actually made in 2018.)

Pattern: New Look 6838 (from 2008, since reissued as New Look 6402)

Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline/sleeve options and pull-on drawstring pants. View C.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (XS-XL) I cut a M (14-16) for the 40.5" bust and 37" waist finished garment measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the wide neckline and the curved back seam which took care of the swayback situation.

Fabric Used: Ponteroma knit in Winter White for $3 per yard (orig. $15) from Hancock Fabrics liquidation sale.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: When I made this pattern the first time I had fitting issues and had to alter the paper pattern extensively. You may find that the top is drafted too long, the back pattern piece will be a full inch or so wider than the front, and the neckline is extremely wide and might need adjustment. When I use this pattern I now sew a larger seam allowance on the center back, I have added to the inner neckline on my pattern piece, and also eliminated 1.5" from the hem.

This time I made the sleeveless shell. Noting that my other versions were now tight in the chest I created a faux full-bust-adjustment by adapting a technique from a favorite Kwik Sew pattern. The front piece is curved outward at the bust (adding more length/room there) and gathered to fit the back piece. Once worn, the bust fills out that excess fabric.

A simple turn-under of fabric at the neckline and armscye completes the top.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can not recommend the pattern as is since I had to do a major reworking of the original pattern. However, the one great thing about this pattern is that the back pattern piece included a shaped center back seam which has addressed any swayback issues. I suggest looking for similar patterns in order to create the best fitted t-shirt block that your particular shape needs.

Conclusion: I am happy with the custom fit I achieved on this make and there will be many other versions.

Chocolate Replicate Skirt - Butterick 6464

This project was inspired by a favorite, well-worn skirt I bought from New York & Company about five years ago. The fabric it was made of was 70% polyester, 25% rayon, 5% spandex.

The skirt had center back and front topstitched seam lines, a back vent, and a wide flat waistband that encased a narrower piece of elastic.

Because of this construction, there is no evidence of gathers and the waist lays flat both on and off the body.

Vogue 8962

For the last year, I had casually looked for a pattern to replicate this skirt, originally thinking I had found the right one in Vogue 8962 (OOP) but an online review revealed that the waistband treatment was no different than the skirt patterns that I already owned. Then this year, Lisette released Butterick 6464 and after reading the instructions at Jo-Anns* I knew I had found exactly what I was looking for!

Pattern: Butterick 6464 (2017)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, pull-on skirt with side panels and thin elastic inside a wide waistband.

Pattern Sizing: Size E5 (14-16-18-20-22), I cut halfway between a size 16 and 18.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it?  Sorta, the actual skirt's waistband appeared more gathered than in the drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely easy. Great pattern for a beginner and it has more style than a basic pencil skirt.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I could see myself making all three pieces but it was the skirt that won me over because its construction was the same as my favorite RTW skirt.

Fabric Used: Mahogany brown 58" ponte knit (poly/rayon/Lycra) from Fabric Mart, (70 denier 100% polyester tricot in Oat from Fabric.com), Stretchrite 1/2" polyester braided elastic, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in #592 Chili Brown.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I checked the design ease for this skirt. They had calculated 1.5 inches (43.5 for a 42" hip), which I thought was far too much positive ease for a knit skirt. I decided half of that would be much better so I cut my skirt pieces halfway between a size 16 and a size 18.

I love the way the waistband is constructed, it consists visually of a wide waistband/yoke with elastic inside. However, it's extremely clever because unlike most elastic waists the channel of elastic is not evident from the outside. The yoke sections are stitched together on the sides only, a casing is formed at the top edge where a thin elastic is inserted, and once secured the entire yoke is turned right side out; essentially hiding the elastic. The yoke is then attached to the skirt pieces.

The rest of the skirt is incredibly simple, consisting of center and side panels on both the front and back. The instructions suggest that all seams, if not sewn on a serger, should be double-stitched. I topstitched the panel seams, the waistband, and the hem in order to replicate the details on my inspiration skirt. I increased the hem to 1.5" . The only detail missing was the back vent which I didn't need with this shorter skirt.

I considered adding a lining to the skirt because I originally thought it was too lightweight and would be too clingy. But as you see it looks fine; however, I have the tricot if I should choose to sew it in at a later date.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I will definitely make more of these and can also see using this same waistband yoke and attaching it to different shaped skirts and possibly some pants. I definitely recommend this skirt pattern.

Conclusion: This was a successful make, a slim skirt with an ingenious waistband treatment and visual interest provided by the topstitched side panels.


* Yes, I am that woman who before she buys a pattern glances through the instructions and unfolds the pattern sheets just enough to find the finished garment measurements and wearing ease. That second step helps a lot when determining which multi-size combination to buy. Luckily for everyone else I always refold EXACTLY like they were before.

Stacked Triangle Wrap Skirt - Simplicity 1163

Pattern: Simplicity 1163 (2015)

Pattern Description: Misses' knit skirt with option of asymmetric faux wrap, flat front, or pleated front drape with length variations.

Pattern Sizing: Size R5 (14-16-18-20-22) I chose a size 18 reflecting my new measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Most definitely.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I always love a simple knit pattern. The front drape gives it some interest and the near-flat pull-on waistband makes it sleek and easy to wear.

Fabric Used: 60" Black Triangle Square Print on Off White 10 oz. weight Ponte de Roma (45% Rayon/50% Poly/5% Spandex) from Girl Charlee and 2 inch black Dritz soft waistband elastic.

Check out this side seam! Can you even see it?

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I cut out a size 18 and the finished measurements stated the hip would be 43" which is an inch larger than my hips. That would be fine but it felt much looser than that and more importantly, it was too wide to attach evenly to the shorter waistband. Perhaps, it wouldn't be a problem with a stretchier knit, but this ponte could only go so far. Therefore, the waistband could barely get over my hips, so I reduced the seam allowance to 1/2" on the waistband. I then increased the side seam allowances of the skirt to 1 inch. Luckily, meeting halfway worked out and with a bit of stretching I was able to make the two match.

Once I had the elastic in the waistband, I tried on the skirt and could see that it was more a-line than I expected. That was my fault because it is illustrated in the drawing above. I debated slimming it down but decided against it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, it is a very simple pattern that produces a great skirt with interest.

Conclusion: I love the waistband, which practically lays flat on me. It would be flatter on someone that has a smaller difference between their waist and hip numbers. I also like that the a-line shape adds a little swing to the skirt which makes it pretty sassy.

Mod Stripe Dress - McCall's 6886

Pattern: McCall's 6886 (2014)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, pullover dress with neckline and sleeve length variations.

Pattern Sizing: E5 (14-16-18-20-22) I cut a size 14 tapering down to a size 18 at the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, after my alterations and changes, it does.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much. If alteration had not been needed, it would have been a very quick sew.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Fabric Used: 60" jade and mustard striped ponte de roma (80% polyester/15% rayon/ 5% Spandex) from Mood Fabrics, item # 107912.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Well, for starters, I made sure to use my correct measurements and to choose my size according to the pattern's finished garment measurements. Even then, changes had to be made.

I found the neckline to be a bit too wide and the depth far too long, about an inch too deep. Therefore, I had to reduce the length from shoulder line to underarm.

I've seen the versions online and noticed that the dress fit so many different body types and sizes; however, the extreme curve of my back did not work with the line of the dress. My first thought was to create a false seam down the back of the dress by folding it down the center and sewing a curved seam to alter the dress. However, I chose to create two side darts instead. There was some try and error as to how long the darts should be. in the end there was still some extra length above the waist but nothing I couldn't live with. I just need to remember to remove it from the pattern.

When I basted the dress it was hard to imagine the final fit and there were drag lines at the underarm area that I hoped I could remove. I decided to attach the sleeves flat. This way I could see if the drag lines disappear when the shoulder seam no longer hung down and it would also make it easier to enlarge or decrease the side seams easily, if needed.

What this showed was that the dress was still too large in the bodice at the front, the back fit perfectly. I undid ALL of the basting, pulled out the pattern again and recut the bodice to a size 14, including the armscye. Once the sleeves were reattached, the majority of the drag lines had been removed.

It was easy to hem the sleeves and skirt with a simple zig-zag line of stitching in order to preserve the stretch.

However, the fold over and stitch method was not ideal for the neckline and I decided to create a neck band, which would also raise the scoop neckline to where I would feel more comfortable. I chose to cut the neckline band at 26" for a 30" neckline.

The neck  band's three layers were difficult for my machine, I had to use the manual control to slowly topstitch the neckline but it did result in an almost perfect neckband. I then steamed the band to shrink it in tighter for a more secure fit.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would now since I have altered the pattern. I would love to try out the v-neck option with short sleeves next. For me it was not the easy TNT pattern that others swear it to be but it was fairly simple to alter. So I would recommend trying it as it may work out easier for someone else.

I believe that the back shoulders are too wide because of those irritating diagonal wrinkles. I also believe the armscye is too high because the upper arms seem to be twisting under the arm towards the front. Also, as seen in the picture below, the back waist is too long and a more extensive sway back reduction is needed.
 

Conclusion: I like the dress, but its not perfect. I already had to make a lot of changes to make it to this point but there will have to be more in its future if I ever want it to be a TNT pattern.I would love to be able to whip up a knit dress whenever I wanted but the time is not now or at least not with this pattern. Sigh...