Spring Green Floral Dress: McCall's 7432

Pattern: McCall's 7432 (c. 2016)

Pattern Description: Pullover dresses, fitted through the bust, have neckline, sleeve, and hem length variations. I cut the short length with short sleeves and constructed a bound V-neckline.

Pattern Sizing: Size ZZ (Lrg-Xlg-Xxl) I cut out a Lrg at the bust and tapered it out to the Xlg size at the waist and hip.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No, I had many fitting issues with this dress. It needed an FBA, bust darts, and a swayback adjustment, all things I needed to reverse-engineer for a wearable dress.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the dress was four pattern pieces, a straightforward construction. My only issue was with the fit, mostly my own fault.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a dress with few details so as not to take away from the medium-scale floral print. This design was perfect. However, I wish I had chosen something with a fuller skirt; this fabric would do great swishy action. 

Fabric Used: 58" Teal and white shaded floral stretch crepe knit (95% Polyester, 5% Spandex) from Joann Fabrics, and Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Deep Turquoise #630. 

Completely unnecessary

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: As I mentioned above, I cut out a size L upper body, did a cheater FBA by curving out the seam at the bust line*, and tapered out to an XL at the waist and hips. I also cut out a larger sleeve in XL because I've been having problems with the upper sleeves fitting small. After the dress was basted together, I tried it on. I didn't need to add extra in the body above or at the waist; it only made the dress look dumpy. I should have done a proper FBA; I needed more room above and at the bustline.

I went back and cut the sides down to a sized L. I kept the alteration at the armscyes for the wider sleeves. I have to ding the pattern on the sleeve drafting; something strange is happening. There is too much fabric at the back of the sleeve, and it pulls at the front. I've never seen this in a knit pattern. I should have used a tried-and-true armscye/sleeve combo from another pattern. After some thought, I decided to sew that seam 1/8" deeper.

The most important detail on this dress was the V-neck and achieving a smooth intersection there. I pinned and hand-basted to avoid puckering, and I am incredibly proud of the finished neckband. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I might sew it again after I transfer the armscye/sleeve combo from another pattern, probably New Look 6402 (originally New Look 6838). All bodies are unique, and this pattern may not work with mine. I would not stop anyone from buying this, as it has excellent neckline options, which was why I purchased it.

Conclusion: At the moment, this dress is a failure. It is hanging in my closet unfinished. I am debating removing the sleeves and recutting the armscye for either a new sleeve or a sleeveless dress. It's a very disappointing outcome.

Update: In the end, after the dress sat around unfinished for I don't even know how long, I stitched it up as-is. If I don't wear it, it will go to Goodwill. It is well-made and cute, though a bit short. If I can find an attractive way to extend the hem, I will keep it. If not, life is too short, and I have a huge queue of waiting projects.

*Do not do what I did; this only works on knit t-shirts. Also, I have found that I need a real FBA. I finally used an online bra calculator and discovered I'm a D instead of the C cup I thought I was! That's a big difference in a form-fitting design.

Two Tried and True Twist Tops - Butterick 5429

  

Pattern: Butterick 5429 (2009) OOP

Pattern Description: Long and short sleeve tops with front neckline twist, dropped shoulders, and a stitched hem.

Pattern Sizing: Size BB (8-10-12-14) I originally cut and made this pattern years ago in a size 8, despite being larger than the pattern recommended, because of the ease. Years later, it still fits despite growing from a B-cup to a D-cup! 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the twist detail at the center front, making this a simple to with interest. 

Fabric Used: #1) Ponteroma knit in Winter White from deep stash, originally from Hancock Fabrics, 

#2) Pink Watercolor floral jersey knit (95% polyester, 5% Spandex), Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP All Purpose 100% polyester thread in #3530 Lilac

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Having made this before, I'm using an altered size 8 pattern. However, my last version still fits.  

White: This version is in a stable ponte, so I added 1/4" to each width-wise seam when I cut it out and stitched the seams at 1/2" instead of the pattern's prescribed 5/8" seam allowance.

Pink: This top is in cotton jersey, so I cut the top 1" larger in width, and added 1/2" to the length. The additional width was unnecessary.

This is a tried-and-true pattern only because it had already been adjusted. From the original, I had to remove some extra fabric hanging beneath the twist by scooping out the front seam, curving in from the bottom of the open twist to one inch at the middle, and and then blending out to the hem and the original seam.

As always, I found it much easier to handstitch the twisted loop edges since they would show when wearing, Otherwise, you might stretch out this section trying to stitch with the machine. I also handstitched the neckline and arm holes for neatness.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, and yes, I would recommend it if you can find a copy secondhand. 

Placed over an older version

Conclusion: An easy but interesting top that can be had if you are willing to do a little work. I would have made one more this time, but the repetitive hand sewing dampened my motivation. It's a very flattering top. In jersey, it drapes well, emphasizing an hourglass shape by following the body's curves 

Popcorn But Not Wine* - Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan

Pattern: Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan (2017)

Pattern Description: Fitted cardigan with extra long sleeves with a close fit around the neck and shoulders. It has minimal excess in the front and is meant to be worn open. View B ends at the hips, View A extends to mid-thigh and has patch pockets at hand level.

Pattern Sizing: Two size options: B-cup for sizes 0-22, and D-cup for sizes 12-34. I cut my size, starting at the top with a B-cup size 14 moving out to an 18 for the waist and hips.

Did it look like the photo or drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, exactly.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The fit of this cardigan is extremely elegant and every version I've seen is gorgeous.

Fabric Used: 58" Sweater rib knit (50% Rayon, 30% Polyester, 20% Nylon) in Cream, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Eggshell, #22; and

 58" Ottoman rib knit (66% Cotton, 29% Polyester, 5% Spandex) in Root Beer, and Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Chili Brown, #

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Choosing a pattern size was hard. My upper and lower half are different sizes, spanning across 2-sizes. However, with this pattern, it ranges four sizes from a D-cup size 12 to 18.

  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, most definitely! I have another one in the queue but in a very different knit. This one was snug in the sleeves but I wonder if in a looser weave I should alter the pattern piece or not.

  

Conclusion: I absolutely love the finished garment. Though the sleeves are designed to be extra long I chose to shorten them. I took both cuffs off, removed an inch from the sleeves and half an inch from each cuff. I wear the cuffs folded half up so that shows how long they still are. This also helped loosen how tight they were at the wrist.

I also shout out about the fabric choice. I leave this cardigan at work where it's always cold. I could never have imagined how many times I arrive, add it to my daily outfit, and the color combination seems as if it was planned! I wish it didn't take so long to finish stuff because I need more of it! I may make a matching pencil skirt.

* Yes, A dated reference to the old tv show Scandal and Olivia Pope's wine cardigans.

Woodland Magic Lounge Set - Assembly Line Pyjamas

Pattern: Assembly Line FREE Pyjamas pattern (2022)

Pattern Description: A two-piece loungewear set consisting of a short-sleeved top with a wide neckline and relaxed fit shorts with an elastic waistband, and side seam pockets.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes XS to 3XL, I made a Medium top and a Large in the shorts.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it looks exactly like it!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Definitely, in fact, the instructions were excellent.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was looking for an easy shorts pattern but after I saw all the cute flannel and jersey prints available, I thought of making the entire set as sleep or loungewear. I normally just sleep in a random t-shirt and add leggings once I wake up. However, with these, I have an entire cute outfit. Best yet, they were designed with roomy pockets.

Fabric Used: 58" Pop! Fall Mushrooms lightweight fleece (100% polyester), Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Ivory, #800, Pellon Sheer-Knit fusible interfacing, 58" Pop! Forest Green Fox interlock (98% polyester/2% Spandex), 1" elastic, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Deep Burlywood, #791.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Seeing examples on the web and reading reviews showed that the neckline was wide. However, even though I reduced the width by 1/8-1/4," it still could use less width as you can see in the last picture below it tends to shift from side to side. Remember though, if you shorten the width, make sure you can still get it over your head.

The shorts could easily be a smaller size, or the legs slimmed down a bit, because they are quite roomy.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, definitely, not only is it cute, but the pattern is FREE! What's not to love?

Conclusion: I am already eyeing some more cutesy prints (in knits and crisp cottons) for spring and summer sets. One thing I really appreciate about the instructions is that they have you finish all the seams, secure the pockets, and have you prepress all the hems before any side seam construction. Those steps result in a neat and elegant finish, inside and out.

Vanilla Village Wench Blouse - Adrienne Blouse

Pattern: Friday Pattern Co. Adrienne blouse (2018) 

Pattern Description: Slightly cropped knit top with statement sleeves gathered at shoulders and hems with elastic.

Pattern Sizing: XS-4X, I cut out an XL, easing to size XXL at the waist and hips

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? As you see below, it looks exactly like it!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes! This was such a quick and straightforward top.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I fell in love with the neckline, the gathered shoulders, and the drama of those full sleeves.

 

Fabric Used: 57" Birch solid Modal blend knit (49% Modal, 45% Polyester, 6% Spandex) from Joann Fabrics, leftover plush back bra strap elastic from the stash, Dritz 1/2" braided elastic for sleeve cuffs, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Ivory, #800.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I traced the bodice pattern piece into a full pattern piece, which made it easier to cut out.

According to my measurements, I cut this in the XL size (bust = 40" to 43"). I made a 1/2" full bust adjustment (FBA) using the instructions in the pattern booklet. However, I could have done more; I underestimated how much of an adjustment I needed. I was unaware that I had gone up a few (!) cup sizes to a DD. That was quite a surprise!

I had cut the XL for my measurements, but after trying on the sleeveless bodice, I decided to decrease the side seam allowance to 3/8" to cut down on the cling factor.

The pattern describes this top as "cropped." That is baffling to me because I felt it was long. I suggest that before making alterations to the pattern that you hold the tissue up to your body or compare to a favorite top. At 5' 4," I cut more than an inch off and it is still long enough to tuck into pants or skirts.

Those cuffs!

Those shoulders!

I removed 1/2" from the pattern's measurements for the wrist and neck elastic lengths. This was an improvement in fit that I learned from wearing my muslin which felt too loose.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, most definitely! This is a great pattern; all the examples out there prove how attractive and romantic it can be.

Conclusion: I love this pattern and how it looks. I made the right size and alterations this time, and I will definitely make it again. I already plan to make some in print fabrics like so many of the examples I've seen on the internet. I would also love to make a dress version in a stretch velvet or velour.

The White Stripes Are Coming! - Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee

Pattern: Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee (2013, the original one-size-fits-all version)

Pattern Description: Oversized boxy top with shallow boat neckline with dropped shoulders and three-quarter-length fitted sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: One size fits all, finished length: 23.5" finished width: 58." The pattern is now available in four sizes here. 

Fabric Used: Black/Gray/Ivory stripe cotton jersey blend knit from Girl Charlee Fabrics, Wright's (vintage) non-stop rayon seam binding in Navy 55, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Black #010 and Silver #100.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: For this version, I cut the armscye of the sleeve 1/2" wider than the pattern tapering out to nothing at the wrist. I also added six inches to the sleeve length. Trying to gain more ease, I used a 1/4" seam allowance at seams except at the shoulders where I used 1/2".

Conclusion: I need to make more of these and I also need to enlarge the sleeves even more!

Blouse Obsession Made Real - Friday Pattern Company Adrienne Blouse

Pattern: Friday Pattern Co. Adrienne blouse (2018)

Pattern Description: Slightly cropped knit top with statement sleeves gathered at shoulders and hems with elastic.

Pattern Sizing: XS-4X, I cut out an XXL, even though my measurements call for size XL. 

 


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It looked exactly like it!

Were the instructions easy to follow? This is such a simple top. The only thing that might cause difficulty is if you are not familiar with sewing knits. Otherwise, this is a very quick sew once you figure out your preferred amount of wearing ease.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I fell in love with the neckline, the gathered shoulders, and the drama of those full sleeves.

Fabric Used: 54" Dark Navy/White Rayon/Lycra rib knit from FabricMart, leftover plush back bra strap elastic from the stash, Dritz 1/2" braided elastic for sleeve cuffs, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Silver #100.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: With this first one, I choose to sew it with no alterations, not even a full bust adjustment. I have another knit ready for my final version, so this is also a muslin.

I cut this in the XXL size (bust=44" to 46") even though the pattern measurements suggested I make the XL to fit bust measurements of 40" to 43". I chose to work on the side of caution and go larger because the pattern calls for 6-1/2" in negative ease! I wanted a fit that I would feel comfortable wearing and was scared of it looking too small and like a sausage casing, to be truthful.

Of course, it turned out too large, and I ended up opening the side seams and taking them in along with the armscye. I believe it ended up equivalent to the XL. I didn't reopen the elastic at the shoulders, so the neckline didn't get reduced and is too loose. I now believe a size XL with a full bust adjustment might have been fine.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will definitely make this again after I figure out the right size to cut.

Conclusion: I have been seeking out versions of this top for months, knowing I wanted to make not one but several of these. I love the finished ones I've seen, especially all the print versions and the dress hacks out there.

After a while, I realized why I was immediately drawn to this pattern. It strongly resembles the gently squared necklines of two of my favorite dresses, both worn for royal weddings: 1) Mette-Marit, Crown Princess of Norway's dress designed by Ove Harder Finseth, and 2) Lady Sarah Chatto's dress by Jasper Conran. The Adrienne blouse only ups that wow factor by adding a much fuller and gathered sleeve. I already have a lush ivory knit in mind for a winter-white knit version.

Ove Harder Finseth design

Design by Jasper Conran

Big Bad Floral Wrap Dress - New Look 6301

Pattern: New Look 6301 (2014)

Pattern Description: Misses' mock wrap dress has slim or flared skirt, several sleeve options, and three types of waist treatments (tie, no tie, band) with an elastic casing at the waist. A Just 4 Knits dress. I made View A.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (8-10-12-14-16-18-20) I cut a size 18 bodice, no alterations, to begin with...

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, fairly simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The finished garment pictures of this dress look great, and at the time, this was the only wrap dress pattern I could find with a fuller skirt.

Fabric Used: 57" double brushed knit in Multi Shana Floral (97% Rayon, 3% Spandex) from Jo-ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Claret #440 and Copenhagen #933.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: After a few pattern reviews from (Sewsarahsmith and Sew-To-Fit), I decided to take their suggestions and do the following: I added length, about 4" to each of the waist ties. I also shortened the neckband by an inch to eliminate any possible gaping in the neckline.

Printed off-grain

What I didn't expect was that my fabric would continue to stretch. By the time I basted the skirt to the bodice, it seemed to have stretched out more than three inches. Luckily, I had only basted the side seams, so I took the dress completely apart, compared it to the pattern pieces, and recut. Even the armholes had increased in size!

Waist is much lower than it should be.

I cut an inch off the skirt length. Then I shortened the bodice length by 1/2." I would have liked more but didn't want to interfere with the darts at the side waist. Both the side and shoulder seams lost about 1/2", subject to me trying it on again. I also shortened the neckband piece; since everything else had stretched out, I can only imagine that the neckline did too.

I took great care not to stretch the fabric further. After a series of Big 4 pattern sleeves being too tight on me, I cut these a size larger in width, keeping everything else the same. However, I ended up sewing the sides at 6/8" when they seemed too loose. In addition, the excess ease was ridiculous; the sleeve caps are essentially gathered. I knew then how completely OVER this dress I was since I didn't try to fix it. I needed to hem it and then put it in the magic drawer (won't be hanging this one!) until I forget all about this frustration!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I still love the pattern's look and will attempt it with a more stable knit next time.

Conclusion: This dress will be worn nonetheless. Well, until it stretches itself out beyond recognition! Unfortunately, it will not function as a muslin because I have no idea what the true fit and ease of this pattern are because of this fabric's low quality.

Historical note: Photographed after voting early, October 2020.