Spring Green Floral Dress: McCall's 7432

Pattern: McCall's 7432 (c. 2016)

Pattern Description: Pullover dresses, fitted through the bust, have neckline, sleeve, and hem length variations. I cut the short length with short sleeves and constructed a bound V-neckline.

Pattern Sizing: Size ZZ (Lrg-Xlg-Xxl) I cut out a Lrg at the bust and tapered it out to the Xlg size at the waist and hip.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No, I had many fitting issues with this dress. It needed an FBA, bust darts, and a swayback adjustment, all things I needed to reverse-engineer for a wearable dress.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the dress was four pattern pieces, a straightforward construction. My only issue was with the fit, mostly my own fault.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a dress with few details so as not to take away from the medium-scale floral print. This design was perfect. However, I wish I had chosen something with a fuller skirt; this fabric would do great swishy action. 

Fabric Used: 58" Teal and white shaded floral stretch crepe knit (95% Polyester, 5% Spandex) from Joann Fabrics, and Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Deep Turquoise #630. 

Completely unnecessary

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: As I mentioned above, I cut out a size L upper body, did a cheater FBA by curving out the seam at the bust line*, and tapered out to an XL at the waist and hips. I also cut out a larger sleeve in XL because I've been having problems with the upper sleeves fitting small. After the dress was basted together, I tried it on. I didn't need to add extra in the body above or at the waist; it only made the dress look dumpy. I should have done a proper FBA; I needed more room above and at the bustline.

I went back and cut the sides down to a sized L. I kept the alteration at the armscyes for the wider sleeves. I have to ding the pattern on the sleeve drafting; something strange is happening. There is too much fabric at the back of the sleeve, and it pulls at the front. I've never seen this in a knit pattern. I should have used a tried-and-true armscye/sleeve combo from another pattern. After some thought, I decided to sew that seam 1/8" deeper.

The most important detail on this dress was the V-neck and achieving a smooth intersection there. I pinned and hand-basted to avoid puckering, and I am incredibly proud of the finished neckband. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I might sew it again after I transfer the armscye/sleeve combo from another pattern, probably New Look 6402 (originally New Look 6838). All bodies are unique, and this pattern may not work with mine. I would not stop anyone from buying this, as it has excellent neckline options, which was why I purchased it.

Conclusion: At the moment, this dress is a failure. It is hanging in my closet unfinished. I am debating removing the sleeves and recutting the armscye for either a new sleeve or a sleeveless dress. It's a very disappointing outcome.

Update: In the end, after the dress sat around unfinished for I don't even know how long, I stitched it up as-is. If I don't wear it, it will go to Goodwill. It is well-made and cute, though a bit short. If I can find an attractive way to extend the hem, I will keep it. If not, life is too short, and I have a huge queue of waiting projects.

*Do not do what I did; this only works on knit t-shirts. Also, I have found that I need a real FBA. I finally used an online bra calculator and discovered I'm a D instead of the C cup I thought I was! That's a big difference in a form-fitting design.

Two Tried and True Twist Tops - Butterick 5429

  

Pattern: Butterick 5429 (2009) OOP

Pattern Description: Long and short sleeve tops with front neckline twist, dropped shoulders, and a stitched hem.

Pattern Sizing: Size BB (8-10-12-14) I originally cut and made this pattern years ago in a size 8, despite being larger than the pattern recommended, because of the ease. Years later, it still fits despite growing from a B-cup to a D-cup! 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the twist detail at the center front, making this a simple to with interest. 

Fabric Used: #1) Ponteroma knit in Winter White from deep stash, originally from Hancock Fabrics, 

#2) Pink Watercolor floral jersey knit (95% polyester, 5% Spandex), Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP All Purpose 100% polyester thread in #3530 Lilac

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Having made this before, I'm using an altered size 8 pattern. However, my last version still fits.  

White: This version is in a stable ponte, so I added 1/4" to each width-wise seam when I cut it out and stitched the seams at 1/2" instead of the pattern's prescribed 5/8" seam allowance.

Pink: This top is in cotton jersey, so I cut the top 1" larger in width, and added 1/2" to the length. The additional width was unnecessary.

This is a tried-and-true pattern only because it had already been adjusted. From the original, I had to remove some extra fabric hanging beneath the twist by scooping out the front seam, curving in from the bottom of the open twist to one inch at the middle, and and then blending out to the hem and the original seam.

As always, I found it much easier to handstitch the twisted loop edges since they would show when wearing, Otherwise, you might stretch out this section trying to stitch with the machine. I also handstitched the neckline and arm holes for neatness.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, and yes, I would recommend it if you can find a copy secondhand. 

Placed over an older version

Conclusion: An easy but interesting top that can be had if you are willing to do a little work. I would have made one more this time, but the repetitive hand sewing dampened my motivation. It's a very flattering top. In jersey, it drapes well, emphasizing an hourglass shape by following the body's curves 

Popcorn But Not Wine* - Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan

Pattern: Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan (2017)

Pattern Description: Fitted cardigan with extra long sleeves with a close fit around the neck and shoulders. It has minimal excess in the front and is meant to be worn open. View B ends at the hips, View A extends to mid-thigh and has patch pockets at hand level.

Pattern Sizing: Two size options: B-cup for sizes 0-22, and D-cup for sizes 12-34. I cut my size, starting at the top with a B-cup size 14 moving out to an 18 for the waist and hips.

Did it look like the photo or drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, exactly.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The fit of this cardigan is extremely elegant and every version I've seen is gorgeous.

Fabric Used: 58" Sweater rib knit (50% Rayon, 30% Polyester, 20% Nylon) in Cream, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Eggshell, #22; and

 58" Ottoman rib knit (66% Cotton, 29% Polyester, 5% Spandex) in Root Beer, and Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Chili Brown, #

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Choosing a pattern size was hard. My upper and lower half are different sizes, spanning across 2-sizes. However, with this pattern, it ranges four sizes from a D-cup size 12 to 18.

  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, most definitely! I have another one in the queue but in a very different knit. This one was snug in the sleeves but I wonder if in a looser weave I should alter the pattern piece or not.

  

Conclusion: I absolutely love the finished garment. Though the sleeves are designed to be extra long I chose to shorten them. I took both cuffs off, removed an inch from the sleeves and half an inch from each cuff. I wear the cuffs folded half up so that shows how long they still are. This also helped loosen how tight they were at the wrist.

I also shout out about the fabric choice. I leave this cardigan at work where it's always cold. I could never have imagined how many times I arrive, add it to my daily outfit, and the color combination seems as if it was planned! I wish it didn't take so long to finish stuff because I need more of it! I may make a matching pencil skirt.

* Yes, A dated reference to the old tv show Scandal and Olivia Pope's wine cardigans.

Another Tried and True T-shirt - New Look 6402

Completed in 2022.

Pattern: New Look 6838 (from 2008, since reissued as New Look 6402)

Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline/sleeve options and pull-on drawstring pants. View C.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (XS-XL) I cut a M (14-16) for the 40.5" bust and 37" waist finished garment measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the wide neckline and the curved back seam which took care of the swayback situation.

Fabric Used: Cream chain link geometric double brush jersey knit (100% polyester) from Joann Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: When I made this pattern the first time I had fitting issues and had to alter the paper pattern extensively. You may find that the top is drafted too long, the back pattern piece will be a full inch or so wider than the front, and the neckline is extremely wide and might need adjustment. When I use this pattern I now sew a larger seam allowance on the center back, I have added to the inner neckline on my pattern piece, and also eliminated 1.5" from the hem.

Noting that my other versions were now tight in the chest I created a faux full-bust-adjustment by adapting a technique from a favorite Kwik Sew pattern. The front piece is curved outward at the bust (adding more length/room there) and gathered to fit the back piece. Once worn, the bust fills out that excess fabric.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can not recommend the pattern as is since I had to do a major reworking of the original pattern. However, the one great thing about this pattern is that the back pattern piece included a shaped center back seam which has addressed any swayback issues. I suggest looking for similar patterns in order to create the best fitted t-shirt block that your particular shape needs.

Conclusion: I am happy with the custom fit I achieved on this make. However, I am always on the lookout for a t-shirt pattern with less effort. 

Edwardian Fan Walking Skirt - Simplicity 8747

Finished garment photo coming.

Pattern: Simplicity 8747 (2018)

Pattern Description: Misses' mid-length full skirt with a center-front seam and a godet at center back from a vintage-style two-piece suit.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes: 16-18-20-22-24; I cut size 22.

 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly, it's a simple but classic design.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were very easy, but it's important to mark all the marks from the pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This pattern works perfectly for replicating my inspiration outfit.

Fabric Used: 58" Stretch faux suede (90% polyester, 10% Spandex) in Sycamore from Joann Fabrics, Coats All-Purpose 7" polyester zipper in Forest Green, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Forest Green #792

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Interestingly, the fabric was tough to pin, and I pulled out a size 16 ball point needle to sew it without skipping stitches. However, that bodes well for winter warmth, meaning no cold breezes will get through!

Initially, I thought of making the skirt flared at the bottom or adding more width to the back godet. However, I procrastinated enough that a straightforward sew was best. I didn't get that straightforward so though. The combination of cutting the pattern as 22 instead of 20 and it being a stretch fabric meant that I eventually had to unpick the entire thing, cut it down a size, and sew it up again. Ugh.

After cutting it down to size it fit better but not perfectly. I attached the waistband and instead of slip stitching as I usually do, I followed the instructions and stitched-in-the-ditch of the waistband seam and it worked out beautifully.

The only thing left to do was take care of the very very wide skirt hem. This, of course, I did whip stitch by hand. It probably took 3 hours (over two days) but it looks spectacular. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I may attempt this again, but would make sure to use a non-stretch woven. As it is, it's quite clingy around the stomach and hips. I'm not sure I know how this should fit. 

Conclusion: I originally envisioned this skirt for a Halloween costume, which wavered between an Edwardian adventuress or a house mistress complete with a chatelaine of keys and tools.

It does match the shape but not the historical look of the inspiration. Perhaps choosing a wool or twill would have been best. To more accurately replicate the look, I may add a petticoat to smooth the lines and allow the skirt to skim my body versus hugging my curves.

Navy Knit Bootcut Pants - Vogue 1663

Completed in 2022.

Finished garment photo coming.

Pattern: Vogue 1663 (2019) 

Pattern Description: Misses' Jacket, Top, and Pants: Pull-on pants have a self-lined yoke with hidden waist elastic and topstitched hems.

Pattern Sizing: Y(XS-S-M), ZZ(L-XL-XXL) I cut an XL, which was the closest to my measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much so!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The yoke construction is similar to one from my favorite knit skirt, Butterick 6464. It is meant to have the convenience of a gathered waist without excess bulk around the waist and hip. I also love the slight bootcut shape of the pants leg.

Fabric Used: Navy cotton interlock (from a 2016 Hancock Fabrics liquidation sale!), Dritz 3/4" wide braided elastic, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Navy #272.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I decided to compare the leg shape to two similar patterns in my stash, Simplicity 1283 and Vogue 8963. I was initially going to make one of those and add the yoke from B6464. This just made it so much easier!

The instructions have you sew double seams, so I needed to first baste the pants together to see how they would fit. This is hard to see without the waistband, so I decided to leave them as-is, baste on the waistband, and then reevaluate them.

I pulled out the elastic template and noticed that the measurement for size XL was too long. Size XL should fit a 34"-37" waist, but the elastic length for XL would be 40." Ridiculous! The same formula was used for the other two sizes in the packet. I did not trust their installation method. Instead, I adapted the technique from Butterick 6464 and cut my elastic to my waist measurement, 36" (also the length Vogue 1663 said to cut for size L!). I cut off 1-2", making sure it could comfortably stretch over my hips. That was the right call.

Once the waistband was in place, I could evaluate the fit. The front rise was 1/2" too long while I would want to add at least 1/2" to the back rise, which seemed (exposing underwear when bending over) low. The width of the legs was fine, but the length was ridiculous, 3 inches too long! This means that the knees can't possibly be in the right place, so the shaping could be better, and this will need to be altered on the paper pattern for any future pants.

I noticed when I took the pants apart that the fabric had stretched. Choosing a cotton interlock for pants might not have been the most sustainable choice. I had to recut the side seams and even out the pants legs to the original length before I cut 1-1/2" off.

Like the XL waistband, I think the pant legs were too large (or stretched out) because I ended up recutting the legs between the size XL and the size L. I will also need to alter the yoke pattern, which I thought was too wide. Next time, I will also cut a size L.

I trimmed down 1/2" at center front, tapering out to nothing at the side seams. In future pairs, I will do the same and add 1 /2" to the center back piece.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would recommend this pattern for the pants even though I didn't use their elastic insertion method. I liked the use of a yoke to minimize elastic waist bulk and the flared shape of the legs. However, in my future makes, I need to use appropriate fabric and make alterations to this pattern.

Conclusion: These pants will be paired with McCall's 7254, a jacket I made in this same fabric five years ago! I had meant to muslin Vogue 1411 in this fabric instead. However, I'm still intimidated by that pattern, so instead, I've created a casual and cozy knit suit.

Hug It Out Pullover - Hug Hoodie Madeit Patterns

Completed in 2022.

Pattern: Hug Hoodie by Madeit Patterns (2020) (OOP)

Pattern Description: Relaxed fit sweatshirt with raglan sleeves, overlap neckline detail, curved back hem, and an optional hood.

Pattern Sizing: UK sizes 6 to 20, I made a size 16.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It looked exactly like the pattern images and drawings.

Were the instructions easy to follow? So simple and very beginner sewist friendly.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The curves at the bottom remind me of similar RTW details I've been interested in for a few years but never got around to drafting for myself.

 

Fabric Used: 58" anti-pill plush fleece (100% polyester) in Pineneedle and 58" Sew Classics interlock ( 60% cotton, 40% polyester) in Ponderosa (for the hood lining) from Joann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Forest Green #792.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Checking the final garment measurements, I noticed that the pattern was made for a personal height of 5'6". Accordingly, I shortened the body and sleeve pattern pieces 2" using the shorten/lengthen lines.

While truing the altered pattern pieces, I added more ease in the lower arms so I could push up my sleeves. That was a good call because I could barely try on the cuff pieces. This makes sense since the pattern did suggest cutting them from ribbing! However, I found that the cuffs make the arms super long. So, I could cut new wider and shorter cuffs or go without the cuffs completely. I decided to baste them on, wear them for a while, and see if they needed to be altered.

I used a remnant for the hood lining; it's not an exact color match, but close enough. I liked how it came out, and the pattern cleverly provided a way to add a drawstring if you wanted to add one.

The neckline was surprisingly small, which made it a tight fit once you attached the hood. The pattern does not address the stress point where the hood edges overlap. As it is a tight squeeze, this area will need reinforcement. I will add a binding to this front edge similar to the back neck.

Everything else went easy; I especially loved how clever the faux wrap hem binding is constructed. Easy-peasy.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will probably make it again in a pattern with the other neckline or with some color-blocking. I recommend it as a wonderfully simple-to-construct sweatshirt pattern but with design details that make it versatile and unique.

Conclusion: I am glad I made the alterations I did, although they were not perfect. Removing 2" from the length of the body was too much for a cold-weather garment. It is now too short in front to cover the waistband of my pants and skirts. However, it was too long in the back with a lot of excess fabric, so I removed the back binding, shortened the back a total of 1", and straightened the curve. I also slimmed the sides by 1/2."

Though the cuffs were roomy, the lower arms were still too tight to push up my sleeves, which meant the overlong cuffs now get wet when I wash my hands. Besides fine-tuning those changes, I will also enlarge the neckline by 1/2" and the hood's width by an inch to create a more substantial overlap. Otherwise, it's a great design that just needed adapting for my body.

Everyday Dress - In the Folds/Peppermint Magazine

Completed in 2022.

 

Pattern: Peppermint Magazine Everyday Dress (2020) A collaboration with In The Folds patterns.

Pattern Description: Knee-length oversized reversible dress. One side of the dress has a soft v-neck, and the other has a round one. The dress features relaxed body sleeves, in-seam pockets, hem slits, and an optional waist tie belt.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes: (1-2-3-4-5) I chose size 3.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It looks exactly like it!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very. I think a beginner could tackle this with a video tutorial for the hem-facing section.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the simple design. It was also a quick make; I completed it in about six hours.

Fabric Used: 54" Linen-look fabric in Navy (55% linen, 45% rayon) from JoAnn Fabrics, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Eggplant #943

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The pattern is meant for 58"/60" wide fabric. However, I used fabric bought initially for another project. It was long but only 48"/54" wide, so I had to cut the sleeves to size 1 sleeve length. They ended up perfect, right at the crook of my elbow. I shortened the dress two inches since it was drafted for a 5' 7" tall person. 

The dress is meant to be comfortably oversized, but I am two different sizes and was worried the hips might end up too tight. I marked out from size 3 under the bust to size 4 at the bottom. It worked. I might not have needed to do that (it only added an inch total), but I feel secure that this dress will last longer because of this addition.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can see more of these with different sleeves and hem lengths. Though the pattern was free, the instructions were thorough and easy to complete. I would highly recommend this pattern.

Conclusion: I am pleased with this dress and how quickly it was constructed. It's a relatively simple design, but the faced hem slits and the reversible nature of the dress elevate it. This dress could also be radically transformed using different substrates, colors, and patterns.

Wide-Strap Maxi Dress - Elbe Textiles/Peppermint Magazine

Completed in 2022.

Pattern: Peppermint Magazine Wide-Strap Maxi Dress (2021) - A collaboration with Elbe Textiles.

Pattern Description: A-line maxi dress with wide shoulder straps, faced side splits, and an elasticized back.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes (A-J) I cut out size F.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It looked like the most comfortable but streamlined version of a summer caftan, but with some structure.

Fabric Used: 43" Robert Kaufman Essex linen blend in Crimson (55% linen, 45% rayon) from Fabric.com, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Chili Red #420, Crimson #347, and Dritz 1-1/2" soft waistband elastic.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: As the pattern was meant for a person taller than me, 5'7", I thought I would need to shorten the dress by three inches, but when I held the pattern up to myself, I liked the length. 

Even though I matched the pattern measurements, I was still scared of creating a dress that didn't fit, especially one made with French seams.  I held up the pieces at each step, checking to see them compared to my body. Once I tried on the basted dress, I was reassured that there was plenty of room for my hips and that the darts were in the correct location.

Looking at the written instructions, I thought constructing the slits would be difficult. This was warranted because when it came to the second pass of the French seamed sides, I wasn't sure how the side split would fit in and doubted myself. I ended up scrolling Instagram and enlarging every photo of other sewists' versions to see how their dresses looked in that area. 

Unfortunately, none looked as weird as mine, so I separated the seams and started over. I chose to sew it with a regular 1/2" seam allowance and use a faux flat-fell finish. This fulfilled the pattern's goal of a clean inside finish. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I think I would; it's a great design. I can see sewing another one in a more fluid fabric.

Conclusion: I love this dress, but it had some fit issues. The shoulder straps were unwieldy and need adjustment, they slip all over the place. I need to add the bra strap holders (which were included in the instructions) and that will fix the problem. 

Whistle While We Work - Elizabeth Suzann Clyde Work Pant

Completed in 2022.

Pattern: Elizabeth Suzann Clyde Work Pants (2021)

Pattern Description: Pull-on pants with large crescent-shaped pockets spanning the side panels (of a three-panel design), vertical seams down the center front and back of the legs, and a wide elasticized waist.

Pattern Sizing: US Sizes 000-28/XXS-4XL in three length options; I cut out a size 16 in the Regular length.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much so!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pockets and the room around the hips are what intrigued me. I love how the shape tapers down to a slimmer leg.

Fabric Used: A mystery twill with some Lycra content from my long-term stash, Dritz 2" soft waistband elastic, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Deep Burlywood #791 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made no changes to this pair and sewed them according to the instructions. The procedures allow you to do almost all the top stitching except at the inseam, where it wouldn't be noticed. The only problem I encountered was at the inseam, where I had to ease the seam at the cr@tch, probably due to the stretch in the fabric causing some distortion.

I noticed that if you use the 2" elastic and fold down the waistband the two times as instructed, it seems to leave almost no space between the elastic and the top of the pockets. I even bought 1-1/2" elastic just in case. 

I cut the elastic to 34", two inches shorter than my waist measurement, hoping it would work.

Unfortunately, the cr@tch was about two inches too long between the front and back! In addition, the waist was loose. I eventually had to unpick all four rows of waistband stitching and the seam. I then folded down the waistband one more inch, as far as I could without interfering with the function of the pockets. I sewed a 2" channel for the elastic, and once I pulled it through, I overlapped the elastic another inch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! I loved the design of these since I first saw them years ago. I couldn't wait until the pattern was released. I recommend this pattern and stress the importance of using the pattern's measurement chart and determining the preferred rise (i.e., cr@tch seam) before choosing which Length version. I assumed wrong; instead of Regular, I should have gone Short and lengthened the legs to make the difference.

Conclusion: I will definitely make these again. I love the silhouette! Next time, I will use stronger, slightly more rigid elastic, remove two inches of length from the rise, and add two inches to the length.