Pattern: McCall's 6885 (2014)
The instructions called for interfacing in the placket, tabs, and collar. I put together the tabs first without interfacing and liked the thickness. I did choose to use it on the front placket because it would be buttoned and unbuttoned continuously. However, I decided to cut new pieces after realizing the fused fabric would be too stiff to turn them inside out, despite it being a light knit interfacing.
The placket instructions were simple and clear. The only problem I had was my own fault. The plaid on the placket piece did not match or complement the front of the dress. I totally missed the fact that I needed to add plaid match lines to that pattern piece too. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough fabric to reposition the piece or cut it on the bias so it looks a bit weird and interrupts the matched plaid that I do have from the front pattern piece. I did however; remember to cut the front breast pockets on the bias.
The biggest problem I had with this project is how easily this fabric distorted and the plaid would get off grain visually. I had to sew the pockets on twice despite having already basted them in place first. Because of the aforementioned problems with the plaid and distortion I chose not to use the red topstitching thread on the placket and pockets which would have highlighted the irregularities.
I was quickly moving along on this project until I noticed that the sleeves looked a bit narrow. Trying on a basted sleeve confirmed my fear... it WAS! Even using a 3/8" seam allowance, it was snug for normal arm movements and definitely tight if the sleeves were rolled up to use the tabs. I was not excited about creating a sleeveless flannel dress for winter. In addition, after noticing how the fabric frayed easily, I took apart the sleeves and completed them in tiny French seams.
|Flat fell seams at shoulder and side seams
There was also a bit of hand-sewing (which I love!) included in this project, the inner seam of the collar, the plackets, and the sleeve and skirt hems.
|Forgive the wrinkles!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I may, only if I use a solid fabric, and I would go up one size for the sleeve pattern piece.