Tuesday, February 20, 2018

Toaster Sweater Lite - Simplicity 8529

Pattern: Simplicity 8529 (2017) A Sew House Seven design.

Description: Slightly oversized sweater with dropped shoulder line, funnel or crew neckline and length variations of cropped with hem band or long with or without hi-low hem and side vents.

Pattern Sizing: Size M (14-16) I cut a M at the bust out to midway between the M and L below the armhole.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very much so, nothing difficult at all.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the funnel neck and the cropped body shape, and cuffs. However, the neck is about an inch higher than I'd like.

Fabric Used: 1.5 yards 59" Blizzard Fleece in Navy Gray Aztec (100% Polyester), 100% polyester Gutermann thread in Mist Gray #102.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I cut a Medium but gave myself more room at the side seams knowing it could be removed, if not needed. Using the finished measurements and comparing with a similar top in my wardrobe I removed two inches from the length.

Check that excellent pattern matching!

Looking at the top now I think I should have cut a small. I like oversized but this was too much for me. It's far too bulky and should follow the curves of my torso more closely.

Back is folded over front,...

 stitched, and then flipped back over.

This pattern has a unique way to construct the neckline, which has it's plus and minuses. The plus, it results in a firmly anchored neckline which will not flip out; however, the minus is an extremely bulky seam.

In addition, that method leaves the neckline uneven with the back slightly higher than the front, as seen above.

Strangely, the instructions for the original Toaster #2 on the Sew House Seven website do not do it that way. Instead they have you sew the seam with the cowl opened up, flip it down, and then "stitch in the ditch" to secure the facing. It still results in a secured neckline but without the bulky seams and the uneven neckline of the Simplicity version.

F.Y.I. They also have different instructions (scroll down) for mitering the side vents that look excellent.
Sew House Seven #1
Sew House Seven #2

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I probably will, with alterations. I like how the Simplicity version seemed to combine both views of the official Toaster sweaters (shown above) but it just didn't look as good on me. The drop shoulder added too much volume around the chest and the collar was too high and seemed to erase what little neck I have.

Next time I will widen and reduce the neckline height by at least 1" to look more like the one on the original Toaster 1, seen above. I will also sew the sleeves at 3/8" so I can push up my cuffs, which were a bit tight, and restore at least one inch of length to the body so I can raise my arms without flashing my belly!

Conclusion: This pattern is nice but it is significantly different from the indie version, which I prefer. I probably should have spent the $19 (for both Toaster Sweaters) but when a similar pattern designed by the same company is available through a $1.99 pattern sale, it seemed a no-brainer.