Spring Green Floral Dress: McCall's 7432

Pattern: McCall's 7432 (c. 2016)

Pattern Description: Pullover dresses, fitted through the bust, have neckline, sleeve, and hem length variations. I cut the short length with short sleeves and constructed a bound V-neckline.

Pattern Sizing: Size ZZ (Lrg-Xlg-Xxl) I cut out a Lrg at the bust and tapered it out to the Xlg size at the waist and hip.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No, I had many fitting issues with this dress. It needed an FBA, bust darts, and a swayback adjustment, all things I needed to reverse-engineer for a wearable dress.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the dress was four pattern pieces, a straightforward construction. My only issue was with the fit, mostly my own fault.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a dress with few details so as not to take away from the medium-scale floral print. This design was perfect. However, I wish I had chosen something with a fuller skirt; this fabric would do great swishy action. 

Fabric Used: 58" Teal and white shaded floral stretch crepe knit (95% Polyester, 5% Spandex) from Joann Fabrics, and Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Deep Turquoise #630. 

Completely unnecessary

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: As I mentioned above, I cut out a size L upper body, did a cheater FBA by curving out the seam at the bust line*, and tapered out to an XL at the waist and hips. I also cut out a larger sleeve in XL because I've been having problems with the upper sleeves fitting small. After the dress was basted together, I tried it on. I didn't need to add extra in the body above or at the waist; it only made the dress look dumpy. I should have done a proper FBA; I needed more room above and at the bustline.

I went back and cut the sides down to a sized L. I kept the alteration at the armscyes for the wider sleeves. I have to ding the pattern on the sleeve drafting; something strange is happening. There is too much fabric at the back of the sleeve, and it pulls at the front. I've never seen this in a knit pattern. I should have used a tried-and-true armscye/sleeve combo from another pattern. After some thought, I decided to sew that seam 1/8" deeper.

The most important detail on this dress was the V-neck and achieving a smooth intersection there. I pinned and hand-basted to avoid puckering, and I am incredibly proud of the finished neckband. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I might sew it again after I transfer the armscye/sleeve combo from another pattern, probably New Look 6402 (originally New Look 6838). All bodies are unique, and this pattern may not work with mine. I would not stop anyone from buying this, as it has excellent neckline options, which was why I purchased it.

Conclusion: At the moment, this dress is a failure. It is hanging in my closet unfinished. I am debating removing the sleeves and recutting the armscye for either a new sleeve or a sleeveless dress. It's a very disappointing outcome.

Update: In the end, after the dress sat around unfinished for I don't even know how long, I stitched it up as-is. If I don't wear it, it will go to Goodwill. It is well-made and cute, though a bit short. If I can find an attractive way to extend the hem, I will keep it. If not, life is too short, and I have a huge queue of waiting projects.

*Do not do what I did; this only works on knit t-shirts. Also, I have found that I need a real FBA. I finally used an online bra calculator and discovered I'm a D instead of the C cup I thought I was! That's a big difference in a form-fitting design.

Please, Help Me Make Up My Mind!

Last year, I fell in love the this fabric from Jo-Ann Fabrics, their amazing leaf-a-palooza print stretch crepe. I had to have it. Ever since then, I've been stumped as to what to make with it, though.

I know I want something that takes advantage of its drape, something with a fuller skirt, and some swishy movement. Perhaps, some ruffles and gathers?

However, I don't want so much fabric that the details can't be seen, or my shape becomes lost in the pattern.

Here are a few of my thoughts. As time went on, the choices kept multiplying. I need your help!

This dress was my first thought:

Simplicity 8888

The lack of waist definition worried me. After seeing a few of these made up I think it would have a strong muumuu vibe. The original inspiration (seen below) by Jasper Conran looks great despite not having any waistline.

Jasper Conran S/S 2017

So no go for this pattern, at least in this fabric. I still think it would work in a solid or a more subtle pattern, and I will probably make it one day.

Then there are these:

I already own the top two patterns, with B6677, being the frontrunner. I adored view A in the illustration from the get-go, but was not excited about the full-length version in the photo. I think I would need to alter the neckline into a deeper rounded v-shape because the print might be overwhelming.

Butterick 6677

I honestly bought McCall's 7381 because of the photograph, the illustrations didn't appeal to me at all. However, with this print fabric, I think the bulk of the waist ties and the sleeves ending right at breast height might not be the best for my figure. So, it might be better in the full-length, sleeveless version.

McCall's 7381

Most recently, I noticed Butterick 6705. I think it has a good design balance. Though again, it is rocking an empire waist instead of one at my waist.

Butterick 6705

Simplicity 9041 has a more appealing neckline, where it doesn't crowd the neck and is more open. I think I'd really like it in the short version with perhaps a ruffled band around the armscye, much like in B6677.

Simplicity 9041

This last option is a Cynthia Rowley-designed OOP from 2011. I always thought view B would make a great summer wedding dress in a silk crepe or crepe de chine. You know the type of boho dress topped with a crown of wildflowers in the hair? Again, I would want to amend the design by adding a ruffled tier to the bottom and eliminating the droopy hanging necktie.

Simplicity 1939

What do you think I should make? I realize the problem isn't really with the patterns but my inability to imagine the final silhouette on my body and my fear of disappointment after putting all that work in.

At this moment, I definitely think I will use the tiered skirt of B6677, view C. The mystery is what will the bodice look like because I think I want something less blousy and more sleek than the options above? So, maybe some frankenpattern work is ahead?

McCall's 7313 - Fall Floral Frock

Pattern: McCall's 7313 (2016)

Pattern Description: Pullover dresses have neckline variations, close-fitting bodice, and a hidden elastic waist. A Learn to Sew For Fun pattern. I made View D.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 18-20-22-24W

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, exactly.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely easy, as expected for a Learn to Sew pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the simple design, neckline options, and a defined waistline, which I now prefer to have in my dresses.

Fabric Used: 58" Ember Knit double brushed print fabric in Dusty Blue Abstract Floral (85% Polyester, 15% Spandex) from Jo-ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Copenhagen #933, Dritz 1/4" wide elastic

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Using the finished garment measurements, I  originally cut a size 18 bodice and a 20 skirt. Not sure about the curve of the neckline, I had planned to use Simplicity 8910 to influence the shape of the final neckline.

However, after trying on the basted dress I was disappointed to find the dress bodice was oversized,  loose, and shapeless. I took it apart and laid my altered New Look 6838 t-shirt pattern over it and shaved some width from the sides and enough length from the shoulders to bring it closer to the pattern's size 16.

I also removed the seam allowance from the back neck because it seemed too high. At this point, I realized the original neckline would work.

After having fit the bodice, I basted in the sleeves. Now being eager, I had already sewed the sleeves together and hemmed them. Pinning them into the armscye revealed that there was too much ease, almost two inches. Shortening the sleeve cap height, reducing the width of the sleeve at the underam, plus slightly gathering the basting stitches at the underarms got them to fit.

Hand stitching the full skirted hem took a few hours but I finished 48 hours out from #DCFrocktails2020, so it was all a success.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. The variety of neckline options and simple construction makes this an easy TNT (tried and true) pattern, with my pattern alterations, of course.

Conclusion: When I needed a quick no-nonsense dress, this pattern came to the rescue. The only issue is I need to start verifying the finished garment measurements before cutting into my fabric from now on. Or I could finally make that bodice sloper I keep meaning to make...come on 2020 sloper!!

Carter's Blue Woobie*

A decade ago, I made quite a few stuffed toys for my friends who were all having babies around the same time. I loved making them but ended up really burned out. However, there was no way I wasn't making toys for my niece and nephew's children. Here is the story of stuffed toy #2, this one made completely from scratch.

Patterns Used: For the head, I used Simplicity 8938 (2019) because I wanted to use the adorable face shape of the bear with its full cheeks. I also used the pattern for the one-piece body and curved leg shape. The shoulders and arms were adapted from both the Wee Wonderfuls Kitty, Bunny, and Bear 3-in-1 pattern (2006), and McCall's 7795 (2018.)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope(s) once you were done sewing with it? No, it became its own thing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very much so, since I decided to simplify the whole stuffed toy experience from the last time I made a soft toy from fleece. This time, I choose not to have separate arms and legs. Really, the most challenging part was deciding which colors to use for all the decorative elements. I ended up cutting eye, muzzle, and tummy pieces in multiple colors and tried out different combinations.

The final design

Fabric Used: 59" Anti-pill Plush Fleece (100% polyester) in Mare Blue and Deep Blue, 59" Blizzard fleece (100% polyester) in Wedgewood, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew All thread in Iris #900 and Dark Blue #252, Kuni ecofi Classic Felt in Neon Blue, and Pellon Easy Pattern.

I used the chosen pattern pieces and Pellon Easy Pattern to trace shapes for blending and creating new pattern pieces.

The old and the new

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I created my own stuffed toy pattern by combining my favorite parts from primarily two patterns. I also drew inspiration from the book fleecie dolls (2008) by Fiona Goble, realizing that a fleece doll might be easier to clean and feel softer on a child's skin. over the years, I've made multiple versions of the Wee Wonderful animals, and while I love them all; knowing what I know now; fleece or a woven cloth works better than the flannel I used for them. Flannel is not durable enough for heavily-used (played with) dolls. The stressed stitches pulled right out of the delicate weave, and the fabric surface (and softness) wore down quickly.

Finishing touches that I added: Then came the truly fun part, adding details, the face, and personality using embroidery. This was so relaxing and meditative. I love his little face! The patch over the stomach gave the illusion of a chubby body and I even put a little puff of padding under both the tummy and the muzzle piece before stitching it down.

Blanket stitches in contrasting colors add both a hand sewn and finished feel to the whole project.

The last touch was adding a simple vest (which I'm sure was promptly lost) I adapted the idea from a tutorial for Tagalong Teddy from Betz White's book Present Perfect. (Unfortunately, the tutorial is no longer accessible online, so definitely go get the book.)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Oh, yeah, this is my new TNT doll pattern.

Chewing is acceptable.

Gently guarded by the family dog.

Conclusion: From all the signs seen above it seems to have been a success!

* Remember what a "woobie" is? If you do, you are around my age if you know what 1980s movie that term comes from.

My Kind of Skirt!

A full midi-length skirt worn with cozy tights and boots has frequently been a winter wardrobe staple for me. There have been handmade versions from Style 2323 (OOP) to my last retail version from Eddie Bauer. There has been so much joy swishing and swirling my skirts about (ever so slightly) with every step, the best was when taking the stairs and having to hold up the sides. It was the closest I'd ever get to being in one of my beloved costumed movie musicals.

Brigadoon, 1954.

While one of those wool skirts is not in my sewing plan for this winter, something just happened that reminded me of what I was missing: the Marvelous Ms. Markle* and her first official royal appearance:

Check out that gorgeous cotton twill skirt from Joseph, the shape is fairly sleek below the waist before it releases two stitched-down pleats at mid-thigh in front and back into fullness. It definitely has that sashay factor working for it!

Finding a somewhat similar pattern for this classic skirt shape and length is possible from the Big Four: Butterick 6249, Butterick 4136, Vogue 9154, McCall's 6993, Burda 6572, Burda 6880, Simplicity 1560, and Simplicity 2058.

Now, while I'm not a fan of the deconstructed loose threads on the Joseph version, the idea of adding some funkiness to the skirt is intriguing...

How about this out-of-print Vogue 9031 which added dynamic seam lines to the purposely unfinished hems of view C and can still be found on eBay and Etsy? Add some length to it and it'd be a stunner. So while there isn't a pattern out there (yet!)** that directly matches the skirt worn by the future Duchess of Sussex, a few of the ones above could be adapted with a little pattern hacking such as McCall's 6993, Burda 6880, Simplicity 1560, and Simplicity 2058.

Or look at what I just found online, the Trend Patterns Drape Hem Skirt:

Now that is super funky! While the abrupt changes in lengths may not be for everyone, adding a little here and there to the pattern pieces (but still keeping the asymmetry) would be a great compromise.

I also checked the indie pattern companies to see if they had anything even closer in style and there were some! I came up with these fairly good look-a-likes; both the Deer & Doe patterns, Fumeterre (view 2) and Azara could be adapted to resemble the Joseph, along with the Sewaholic Gabriola, which is probably the closest of them all!

Probably the best match of them all!

* Yes, I'm also alluding to the fab The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, a new Amazon series. Check it out, it's incredible and new from Amy and Daniel Sherman-Palladino.

** I'm looking at you, Style Arc!