Oyster White Shell Top - New Look 6838

(This was actually made in 2018.)

Pattern: New Look 6838 (from 2008, since reissued as New Look 6402)

Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline/sleeve options and pull-on drawstring pants. View C.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (XS-XL) I cut a M (14-16) for the 40.5" bust and 37" waist finished garment measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the wide neckline and the curved back seam which took care of the swayback situation.

Fabric Used: Ponteroma knit in Winter White for $3 per yard (orig. $15) from Hancock Fabrics liquidation sale.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: When I made this pattern the first time I had fitting issues and had to alter the paper pattern extensively. You may find that the top is drafted too long, the back pattern piece will be a full inch or so wider than the front, and the neckline is extremely wide and might need adjustment. When I use this pattern I now sew a larger seam allowance on the center back, I have added to the inner neckline on my pattern piece, and also eliminated 1.5" from the hem.

This time I made the sleeveless shell. Noting that my other versions were now tight in the chest I created a faux full-bust-adjustment by adapting a technique from a favorite Kwik Sew pattern. The front piece is curved outward at the bust (adding more length/room there) and gathered to fit the back piece. Once worn, the bust fills out that excess fabric.

A simple turn-under of fabric at the neckline and armscye completes the top.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can not recommend the pattern as is since I had to do a major reworking of the original pattern. However, the one great thing about this pattern is that the back pattern piece included a shaped center back seam which has addressed any swayback issues. I suggest looking for similar patterns in order to create the best fitted t-shirt block that your particular shape needs.

Conclusion: I am happy with the custom fit I achieved on this make and there will be many other versions.

Chain Link Print Top - New Look 6838

Pattern: New Look 6838 (reissued as New Look 6402)

Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline and sleeve options and drawstring pants.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (XS-XL) I cut a small, which corresponds to size 10-12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, after I made some alterations.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the slight curve of the boatneck option in this pattern.

 
Fabric Used: A light-weight red, black, and white patterned Lycra jersey knit (free) from the DC/VA/MD swap and Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

When I made this pattern before I found the neckline was too wide to stay on my shoulders. This time I added half an inch to the inside edge of the shoulders on front and back. I  took the time to reinforce the shoulder seams by fusing knit interfacing to the seam allowances. I also fused it along the neckline curves because I used that technique in another knit top and the neckline has stood up to constant wear. Even so, there was some stretching at the neck so I folded the hem in place and steamed the ease out of the fabric as I shaped the neckline.

The first time I attempted this pattern, the back was extra wide because the pattern had an extra inch added to the width on the back pattern piece only.That did not work for me especially since my back is actually narrower than my front. Therefore, I customized the back piece narrowing it at the center and scooping in the curve, beginning at the neckline. I also fused the hems of the sleeves like the neckline to make them more durable.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. However, I can not recommend this pattern. I think you will receive better results if you either draft your own pattern or buy another basic t-shirt pattern.  This one might not fit you straight out of the envelope. I do recommend that when you buy a t-shirt pattern that you choose one with a center back seam for shaping and for dealing with swayback issues.

Conclusion: Another great knit t-shirt. My goal is a whole wardrobe of them. I have a great medium weight black & white Lycra knit stripe all ready for the next one.

Images: my own (It was hard to get the color correct on the modeled photos though that swatch of fabric is the real deal.)

Stripes Galore - T-Shirts And Comfy Tops

So, I'm sewing again. No, I did not get a new job yet but I need something to do for fun around here. So why not start acquiring those striped t-shirts I've talked about always wanting.

First four are from Girl Charlee and the last two are from Mood Fabrics.

The Fabrics:

A while ago, I bought some striped ponte de roma from Mood Fabrics(!) for a pair of t-shirts. I think I might now use one, the jade and mustard stripe, for a t-shirt dress made from New Look 6838. Since I only have two yards, it will be short-sleeved for spring similar to the examples below from Banana Republic and Zara..

After buying that amazing ponte from Mood, I found out about a sale at Girl Charlee and I decided to give the company another try. I had a disappointment with an order a year ago with a semi-sheer knit that wasn't advertised as such. Not only was the white portion of the mustard and white stripe fabric see-through but the mustard was printed instead of being woven in the fabric. I returned it and exchanged it for a superior black and white Lycra knit that I did love and used here. So one good - one bad. However, I was still leery of the accuracy of their fabric descriptions on the blog and as it turned out, I was right to be.

The haul from Girl Charlee

With the fabrics averaging a price of $4, I decided to take the chance and ordered four cotton poly blend knits described as 7 oz. lightweight to mid-weight and one 10 oz. medium weight patterned ponte.

Well, even though the four knits felt soft and had drape, they were no way near mid-weight, in fact, the ones striped with white were see-through at the white parts and specifically, the red and white one read as red with extremely pale pink stripes. I prefer my white to be opaque.

10 oz. ponte print

In addition, their black and white ponte was thinner than any ponte that I've encountered and again the white portions of the print would require a lining if I made it as a skirt, which had been the goal.

I am first trying out the two grey-striped fabrics, they have already been washed. I feel they are not as scandalous as the white striped ones, which would definitely require a camisole if worn. Because of the low prices, I don't feel bad using the others purely for muslin since I have a lot of free knit top patterns I would like to try out. The ponte might be used for a boxy top instead of the Mod-inspired skirt I originally wanted.

The Patterns:

Grainline Hemlock (1.5 yards), Simplicity 6216 (1 yard), New Look 6838 (1.5 yards), Grainline Scout tee (1.75 yards), and Let's Twist Again... from Burdastyle (2 yards).

Images: Banana Republic, Zara, Grainline Studio, Simplicity, and McCall Pattern Company.

The Rundown - Color, Pattern, And Fit

While taking this time off from the blog, I have found myself thinking about my wardrobe quite a bit. Since I wear a uniform the majority of my days now, when I get to venture from it, choosing what I wear becomes more important. It might just be escorting my father to one of his many medical appointments; however, what I'm wearing reveals a bit about me and what I like, right?

Here is the majority of my handmade wardrobe. Let's dissect it, all right?

8 Florals
Looking at my wardrobe in these pictures reveals that at least in my wardrobe I am attracted to florals more than graphic angular prints and patterns. which surprises me, as I stayed as far away from florals (and pink) as much as I could as a child/teen. In addition, a lot of these florals are very dainty and delicate (V9772), though there are some bold (S3835/V8392) and/or abstracted (B5429, Paprika Jade, NL6939, M5042) ones too.

10 Non-Floral Prints
The few abstract prints are the black & white Ikat Grainline Scout, the gingham and polka dots of my Sorbettos, Burdastyle boatneck stripes, the confetti dots of B5429 and the One-hour dress, and the gorgeous madras plaid of M6712. I would love to buy more exotic prints but most of my stash stills hails from either JoAnns or Hancock Fabrics. Who knows what would happen if I were let loose at Mood, Britex, or Gorgeous Fabrics.

  

 

1. Grainline Tank, 2. Vogue 9772, 3. New look 6977, 4. Burdastyle "Twist Again", 5. Grainline Scout, 6. New Look 6838, 7. New Look 6977, 8. Burdastyle 02-2010 112A, 9. Grainline Scout, 10. Grainline Scout

 

 

1. Simplicity 3835/Vogue 8392, 2. New Look 6807, 3. New Look 6838, 4. Butterick 2564,

5. Butterick 5429, 6. Butterick 5429, 7. Colette Sorbetto, 8. Colette Sorbetto

Color
I love color, and finally my handmade wardrobe reflects that. When I was younger, my mother always moaned that I didn't wear "happy" colors, however, if she could see me now she'd be overjoyed. Check out the bold colors; the blues, purples, reds, and mustard yellows. Strange, but some of my favorite colors are still not represented, a great forest green and pumpkin orange. For those I will need to start frequenting online fabric stores because Hancocks and JoAnn are not big enough fans of those autumnal shades.

Neutrals
You can see how some of my earlier makes were more neutral and my wardrobe became more colorful over time. Surprisingly, mostly when it came to items for my lower half. I'm very proud of the bright red pants and the blue, teal, and purple skirts...but just wait for the next one. My final Moss skirt will not be sunshine yellow like the muslin but the color is just as eye-catching.

1. New Look 6216, 2. New Look 6977, 3. Vogue 2747, 4. Vogue 2532,
5. Simplicity 2152, 6. Sew U skirt, 7. Paprika Jade skirt, 8. Grainline Moss muslin #3

 

 

1. Simplicity 5914, 2. Simplicity 8126, 3. Sew U skirt,

4. Pattern Runway, 5. Vogue 2883, 6. Sew U skirt

Loose-fitting

However, I will always love a good drapey, Japanese-inspired garment such as those in books like the Drape Drape series and the such. I also love a good shift or a-line dress such as the Burdastyle Anda, B4948, or M6712 because they can always be cinched by a belt, if desired.  My Burdastyle Anda is no longer worn only because the fabric (a mystery one) has pilled beyond repair. I must make a replacement soon because I love the easy shape. The M6712 is a bit awkward to wear bra-wise so unfortunately doesn't get much wear in summer. But I could fix that by making a coordinating racer-back tee (MUST get on that for next summer!).

Fitted
I used to wear a lot more fitted clothing when I started sewing decades ago but the joy of easy fitting and weight fluctuations as I got older brought about a love for more flexible fits when it came to tops and dresses. The Colette Oolong is on the tight side in the chest and is more of a special occasion dress. I'm not even sure if it fits now, which is a shame because it took me forever to get it to fit decently. However, my Paprika Jade skirt makes me think I need a few more fitted items in my wardrobe, maybe even a real femme fatale dress in my future?

 

1. Simplicity 5190, 2. New Look 6939

 

I no longer enjoy the fit of these two ample dresses above and they will both be altered. S5190 will be picked apart and become the bodice of either New Look 6968 or Vogue 8787 with a slim skirt made in a coordinating stretch gabardine. NL6939 will receive back darts for more waist shaping, going from a shift to a sheath.

 

 

1. McCall's 5042, 2. Burdastyle "Anda", 3. McCall's 6712, 4. Colette Oolong,

5. New Look 6939, 6. "One-Hour Dress", 7. Butterick 4948, 8. Simplicity 2406

So, that's where my wardrobe is now and this is where it's going: more color, more pattern, more fitted silhouettes, and definitely more pants!


All composite images created with fd's Flickr Toys

2. Black Tee - New Look 6838

Pattern: New Look 6838 (reissued as New Look 6402)

Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline and sleeve options.

Pattern Sizing: I originally cut a S (Bust=32.5-34, Waist=25-26.5) however, I tapered from the waist down to a M (Waist=28-30) .
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, after I made some alterations.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I don't think I look my best in scoop or crewneck tops so I was very excited about the boatneck and v-neck options of this pattern.

Fabric Used: A medium-weight black knit overlock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I found the boatneck almost too wide to allow a regular bra with straps.

The back was extra wide, enough that I had to pinch out almost an inch and a half and the neckline still sits off from the back of my neck. As it turned out, the reason was the pattern and their addition of an inch of width on the back pattern piece only. Why did they do that? How many of you are an inch wider in your back measurement than your front?

Way too much fabric!

The sleeve cap also had to be reduced, there was far too much ease in the sleeve and my first try looked like they were gathered puff sleeves. The second try (see photo) with a quarter inch shaved off the top curve worked out fine. In addition, I hardly had enough fabric to make sleeves so I ended up cutting them on the selvage so I could get more length and forgo hemming the sleeves.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will probably move on to find another TNT shirt pattern even though I will try to alter this one. However, I would still recommend it to others because the neckline is lovely, but anyone trying this pattern should measure the neckline before they cut it out.

Conclusion: I may make this again after I use this book to correct and personalize the pattern with my measurements.

UPDATE: I took in the back even more, about 1/2 inch extra in the back seam from the neckline down and scooped the back out more. Will need to do a real sway-back adjustment next time though.

My Handmade Wardrobe Inventory

Looking at my closet I wondered just how many of the clothes in my closet were made by me. A quick inventory is below, to see these items and read their reviews and construction details, go look at My Handmade Wardrobe.

Knit Tops:

• Mustard Burdastyle "Let's Twist Again..." top
• Pink polka dot Butterick 5429 twist top
• Autumnal floral Butterick 5429 twist top
• Black New Look 6838 short-sleeve boatneck
• Red, black & white New Look 6838 long-sleeve boatneck
• Magenta New Look 6807 gathered-sleeve top

Woven Tops:

• Grainline Scouts
  Brown print
  Red twill w/ full back
  Cornflower blue floral w/ gathered 3/4 sleeve
• Gray Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank
• Yellow gingham Colette Sorbetto
• Multicolor dots Sorbetto
• Swiss Dot Vogue 9772 bias top
• Cream Vogue 2068 gauze top
• Blue Simplicity BBW 3835 top
• Cream Simplicity 3835/Vogue 8392 gathered long-sleeve top
• Autumnal floral  Simplicity 3835/Vogue 8392 gathered long-sleeve top
• Cream Butterick 4632 gathered yoke shell
• Red Butterick 2564 cut-on sleeve shell

Interesting note: I like my clothing easy to sew and easy to wear. None have zippers, only two have buttons but only on the backs and all can be pulled on over my head, if needed. So, I probably should make at least two shirts with buttons or snaps for a more formal look. Maybe. If it ain't broke...

Skirts:

• Built By Wendy Sew U skirts
  Black corduroy
  Brown corduroy
  Gray wool
• Blue denim Simplicity 8126 wrap skirt
• Red twill Simplicity 5914* skirt
• Heather gray Pattern Runway gathered skirt
• Black floral Simplicity 9765 long skirt
• Iridescent purple Vogue 7058 ball skirt
• Purple Simplicity 2152 linen A-line skirt
• Teal abstract floral Paprika Patterns Jade skirt

Dresses:

• Pink polka dot SewStylish One-Hour Dress
• Heather tan Simplicity 2406 belted cotton dress
• Purple Butterick 4948 corduroy dress
• Orange plaid McCall's 6712 "maternity" dress w/ shoulder ties
• Green New Look 6939 shift
• Floral New Look 6939 shift dress
• Beige Burdastyle "Anda" shift
• Red floral New Look 6860 sun dress
• Autumn floral Simplicity 5190 faux-wrap dress
• Floral McCall's 5042 full-skirted dress
• Red Colette Oolong #1008 dress
• Black Vogue 9968 knit cowl dress

Note: Only one zipper in the bunch(!!), all others can be pulled over the head.

Special Occasion**:

• Blue Simplicity 8343 brocade full-length gown.
• Bronze Style 2448 velour 1920-ish gown.
• Blue/yellow shot cotton McCall's 9403 strapless dress.

Pants:

• Brown gabardine Vogue 9745 flat-front trousers
• Heather tan Vogue 2883 shorts
• Purple and green Vogue 2532 plaid shorts

Only one pair of pants but have fabric and supplies for four others. Must get on that for fall.

Jacket/Coat:

• Purple knit Simplicity 2560 cardigan
• Brown Vogue 1476 (Issey Miyake) coat

Misc:

• Peacock blue half slip
• Green/B&W stripe Indigorchid #705 panty
• Kwik Sew 2529 sleepwear
  Blue-gray fleece short-sleeve tank and boxer briefs
  Light/dark blue fleece color-block tank and boxer briefs
  Multi-color fleece night shirt

*Recently reissued as Simplicity 1560 with same photo & illustrations.
**First two no longer fit and the third is impractical for my life now.

Andes Mint Striped Tee - New Look 6838

 

Pattern: New Look 6838 (reissued as New Look 6402)
 
Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline and sleeve options and drawstring pants.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (XS-XL) I cut a small, which corresponds to size 10-12. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except I made it with shorter sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the wide neckline and the curved back seam which took care of the swayback situation.

 
Fabric Used: One yard brown and jade striped 60" wide ponte de roma (80% poly, 15% rayon, 5% Lycra) from Mood Fabrics.

 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: When I made this pattern the first time I had fitting issues and had to alter the paper pattern extensively. This time the fitting issues were all my fault. I mistakenly thought the ponte would be so different stretch wise from the interlock I used the first time and originally added a half inch to each side seam. Big mistake, which I didn't realize until I had stitched it together, so there was a lot of unpicking and then I re-cut the top in the original size.

Since I only had one yard, I could not have full-length sleeves. However, I chose to cut them out as long as possible and make the decision later. As it turned out, I hemmed them just below the elbow, so more than half but still not three-quarter length. A simple turn-under at the neckline, sleeves, hems, and I was done.

 

 

Check out those matching stripes!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can not recommend the pattern as is since I had to do a major reworking of the original pattern. However, the one great thing about this pattern is that the back pattern piece included a shaped center back seam which addressed any swayback issues. I suggest looking for similar patterns in order to create the best fitted t-shirts.

Yes, there is a center seam here! Stripe matching, for the win!

Conclusion: Another great boatneck t-shirt and the first one done out of my striped tee sewing binge.

Totally Not The TNT Top - Simplicity 1325

Pattern: Simplicity 1325 (2014)

Pattern Description: Long-sleeve crew-neck top, flared jumper dress or tunic with plunging v-neck, pants, and long sleeve jacket with ribbon detail. Pattern by In K Designs. View A.

Pattern Sizing: R5 (14-16-18-20-22) I cut an 18.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but only after many alterations.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, it's a very simple top. Nothing new.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I have a TNT top pattern (New Look 6838) but I was curious to try something new. I liked the extra long sleeves.

Fabric Used: 59" Sew Classics interlock (60% cotton, 40% polyester) in Ponderosa from Jo-ann Fabrics, Wright's non-shrink rayon seam binding in Navy 55 (vintage), Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Spruce #748

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Before I cut out the fabric I compared this pattern with my TNT (New Look 6838). The main difference was that the back pattern piece in NL6838 is two pieces to allow for swayback reduction, so I transferred the curved back center seamline. For some reason, this top turned out much larger than desired even though an earlier comparison of the pattern pieces didn't seem that far off. To remedy this, I recut the side seams to match those of the TNT pattern. So basically, I should have used that pattern to begin with!

I stitched on the neckband but then found the neckline too high, especially in the back. It was also too loose, so I again turned to my TNT to correct it. I altered the neckline to halfway between this pattern's crew/scoop neck and the other's boatneck. However, I did not cut and make a new neckband. Therefore, by cutting a lower neckline and making the circumference longer yet still using that smaller band I was able to cinch and tighten the neckline. I added some subtle interest by topstitching the band with a row of zigzag stitches.

I found the original length too long and cut off 1.5 inches. The sleeves were meant to be extra long to bunch at the wrist but I found them too wide for that purpose, even if they had been made in a Lycra stretch fabric. Because I had used a non-stretchy interlock the extra length didn't work so I removed most of it and then added tiny elastic to the sleeve hems. Next time, I might try a wider hem circumference for a more dramatic effect.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I would not. However, I bought the pattern for the dress so I hope I won't have as many problems with that. I will definitely take my own pattern measurements and compare them to the printed finished garment measurements before cutting anything out next time.

Check out my @grombre transition

Conclusion: I am happy with the final top but I really should have used my TNT pattern!