Layered Folds Skirt - Paprika Patterns Jade

Surprise! This skirt was actually made in 2013 as a test of the pattern but I just received the OK from the designer to go ahead and publish my review. 10/14/2014 Update: the pattern is now available here!

Pattern: Jade by Paprika Patterns c. 2013 (designed by Lisa of SmallThings)

Pattern Description: Self-lined knit skirt with contoured waistband and optional back zipper in two lengths, micro-mini, and mid-thigh. Skirt consists of diagonal folds on the front paired with a plain back. I made View B, the longer of the skirts at 19 inches.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 2-3-4-5 (equivalent to EUR 36-42 or US size 8-14.) I chose size 5, the largest, and the one that matched my measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes

The layered folds.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were. All of my problems were because of my choice of fabric.

Step 6 of the very helpful tutorial

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pattern was based on the designs in the Drape Drape books, so of course I liked that. In addition, because of the clever lining construction there are no exposed seams on the inside. I love that the photographed tutorial is still available on the Small Things blog. The tutorial will allow the pattern to be used by a larger segment of the population since as a ready-to-wear size 8/10 I was the largest size available.

 

Fabric Used: A 58/60" polyester 5% Lycra print from Hancock Fabrics, leftover Rayon/Spandex knit in Potent Purple from Jo-Ann Fabrics (lining), thread, and Dritz sports elastic in 1-1/2" and 1/4" widths.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?: Because I was using leftover fabric from another project for the lining, I had to piece the back lining together instead of cutting it on the fold. Because my choice in fabric the construction of my pleats was time-consuming and required that I do a lot of basting, not only under the folds as in the instructions, but also on the folded edges of each tier. Otherwise, my fabric kept wandering out of place. Even so, some lines of basting would have to be removed and redone each time I changed the arrangement.

Preparing to baste folds.

When fitting the side seams, instead of using pins I machine-basted the sides before turning it inside out. Because the skirt is so form fitting, my first fitting using pins was painful. My outside fabric stretched out too much at the waistline and I had to adjust the side seams. I eventually removed almost 2 and a half inches at the top, bringing in the waistline enough that I could just get it over my hips, and widened the seam allowance at the hips and below by 2/8” to the eliminate the obvious “cupping” effect of the skirt. Because of the instability of this fabric, I decided against a zipper and decided to insert wide elastic in the waistband. I did not want it to look like an elastic waistband so I used just enough so it could get over my hips, and then tighten up at the waist, much like the fit on these skirts.

 

However, in these pictures, I was wearing the skirt with the waistband turned to the inside of the skirt much like a facing

Updated: I decided I preferred elastic in the waist. My skirt waistband ended up being 1 3/4" wide and I could not find that size elastic in the local stores. Therefore, I bought a basic sport elastic (not too stiff) in both 1 1/2" and 1/4" widths. Using a narrow zigzag stitch, I sewed them together flat and it worked! If you try this, make sure that the two elastics you use have the same amount of stretch and recovery.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I may make this again but in a stable knit. Most of my skirts are A-line and worn to work while this one could go out for cocktails. I recommend the pattern. It produced a unique and flattering skirt. If you choose to use a double knit or an interlock, you could use the zipper option. Both fabrics would also form and hold the pleats better than this jersey. I suggest that if you are using a thin drapey knit you might want to apply spray starch and keep the fabric damp while doing the folding parts.





Lisa's original and my version

Conclusion: What a sassy little skirt, right? Great first pattern from Paprika Patterns and I am curious as to what they have in the pipeline next.

Images: SmallThings blog tutorial, and my own photos.

Essential Stripe Tee - Burdastyle 02/2010 #112A

Here is my last clothing make from 2013. To see my other makes from 2013, click here.

Pattern: Burdastyle 02/2010 #112A c. 2010

Pattern Description: Knit top with raglan sleeves and wide neckline.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 36-46 (US 10-20). I originally cut it out as size 44, which corresponded to a US size 18. I then basted and cut it down slowly until I liked the fit.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, after I made some alterations.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the slight curve of the wide neckline and the slight waist shaping.

 
Fabric Used: An 8.5 oz. medium-weight half-inch black and white stripe cotton spandex knit (CL-1260) from GirlCharlee.com ($5.50 per yard) and Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My first issue was matching the stripes at the raglan sleeve and at the side seams. Where the sleeve joins the body needs to result in chevrons and it would be noticeable if they did not match. I used this tutorial by Sewaholic to match the striped fabric. I also used my walking foot which I think helped extremely well.

Luckily, the pattern pieces have printed match lines for striped fabrics though you could add your own to any pattern. I would even suggest if your pattern paper is transparent that you trace a stripe all across the piece to make a more accurate match.

I aligned the match lines on the pattern with particular stripes on the fabric. I did the same with the second pattern piece, matching its match lines with corresponding stripes in the fabric. Though the fabric was folded for the bodice, I cut the piece out of the top layer only. Putting aside the paper piece, I used the cut fabric piece as a guide to cut the lower layer making sure the stripes were parallel. I then used the front piece as a guide to cut the back piece matching stripes starting from the bottom. The front and back pieces were basted together by hand and I attached one sleeve in order to check the fit. I wanted my top to fit the same way as Nicole’s. 

At this point, the top was too large so I laid the pattern over the pieces and found that the fabric had stretched and grown. I cut down both the pattern pieces and fabric to a smaller size above the waist and a larger one below for the hips. Once I finished the alterations, I pinned and basted, by hand again, making sure that all stripes were aligned at the seams. Using a narrow zigzag stitch, I sewed the top together on my machine.

As a last step, I fused interfacing to the hems and neckline for durability. I used knit interfacing as a substitute for the Vilene bias tape suggested in the instructions. I then attached the neck binding differently, as single-fold binding, because the double-fold method they called for would have been far too bulky. I folded the hems over 1/4" and then 1/2", stitching them to the inside by hand.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, no wonder it is a popular top on patternreview.com. Depending on the knit, I will probably cut the shoulders of the next one in a size 40 (US 14) with the waist and hips staying a 42.

Conclusion: Another great knit t-shirt and perhaps another TNT pattern. My goal is a whole wardrobe of knit tops of all styles.

Images: my own, Burdastyle.com 

Purple Top Revisited - New Look 6977

This project was created from remains of a 2009 top that no longer fit, New Look 6807.

Pattern: New Look 6977, c. 2010

Pattern Description: Misses' top, pull-on full/slim skirts and pants. A Just4Knits pattern.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (6-16) I originally cut a size 14 according to finished garment measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, though I did make two small alterations.

New Look 6807 to New Look 6977

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much. There isn't much to them but I did appreciate that the pattern begins with some tips on sewing knits. Therefore, I used a combination of straight and zigzag stitches.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The shape seemed very flattering. I chose it because it had a similar neckline and sleeves to a top I made in 2009 that had stretched so much that I could no longer wear it. However, this was more form-fitting and its pieces could be cut out of the original. The only change was I eliminated the gathering detail at center front.

Fabric Used: A rayon/Spandex knit in Potent Purple from Jo-Ann Fabrics and Gutermann polyester thread in #447, Mulberry.

Now - Then

Now - Then

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I liked the neckline and drapiness of the original design (New Look 6807). Unfortunately, this jersey knit kept growing so much that I had not worn it for months. One night, I went out with some friends and had to keep adjusting it every time I moved. It was falling off my shoulders so much that within 10 minutes of getting home I had my seam ripper out and started ripping! I was able to completely cut the new pieces out of the old ones, no additional fabric needed. I even reused the old neckline for the new one.

I used the pattern's finished garment measurements to select the size and of course it was STILL too big!! Luckily, the armscye was large enough (!) that I could safely cut the sleeve in a smaller size; therefore, decreasing the length between shoulder and the bust. It eliminated one inch of length on each side. I then had to taper the top bodice line from a 14 at the armscye notch to a size 6! at the neckline.

At this point, fearing the fabric would stretch even more I fused knit interfacing to the neckline and sleeve openings. At that time, I chose to use a different method a la Alabama Chanin. Using the single-fold binding from the original top I encased the raw edge inside the fold and hand stitched around the neckline with fuchsia thread.

I took note of a suggestion by grays08 on Pattern Review about gaping back armholes. I made sure to baste the top together and try it on again after my alterations; however, I didn't have that problem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. but only because I have successfully adapted the sleeve pieces and altered the body shape to fit me. I am unsure about recommending the pattern because I don't know how much of my problems were due to the fabric or to the pattern. I suggest not only measuring the flat pattern but to also construct a muslin in suitable and similar fabric.

Conclusion: I love the finished result but to get there I needed to make multiple alterations to this pattern. Though not ideal, I do now have a custom pattern to make as many of these as I want and I definitely want more.

Summer Walking Shorts - Vogue 2532

Pattern: Vogue 2532 c. 2001

Pattern Description: Shorts, micro-mini, above mid-knee, below mid-knee or straight-legged pants have waistband, carriers, in-seam pockets and mock-fly zipper. A,B,C,D: side slits and stitched hems. E: cuffs. Purchased top and belt. I made the above mid-knee view.

Pattern Sizing: (12-14-16) I chose a size 16 which actually did match my measurements and the finished garment measurements were just right.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, mostly. However, I did not construct the side slits and did a blind hem instead of the visible one they suggest.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a pair of slim walking shorts, the opposite of my almost skirt-like pair. I also learned a new faux fly zipper technique that I will be using again which resulted in my best looking zip ever, exterior and interior. The only thing I didn't like was that they are too long waisted. However, that could have been fixed if I had made a muslin.

Fabric Used: A 44/45" madras cotton print FREE from the VA/DC/MD blogger swap, 7" Robin zipper in Lead Blue, thread, fusible knit interfacing, and a snap closure.

Isn't that a gorgeous inside zipper view?

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?: I did not mean to make any alterations but when it got to making the side slits I decided to just make a simple straight hem. I think because the pattern was specifically drafted for those slits is why I had to ease the hem around and use steam to shrink the puckers. I really liked the zipper application, it was a different way to do a faux fly, worked smoothly, and looks great.

For the waistband I decided to forgo the pattern instructions to trim the corner of the seam allowance at an angle and instead followed this great Perfect Corners on Waistbands tutorial from Lisa G. at Notes From a Mad Housewife instead. And yes, they turned out perfect!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes. 

Conclusion: I adore this fabric, it's a mystery but it has such a soft yet firm hand I would not be surprised if this were my first silk/cotton mix. Luckily, I have enough left to make a top from next summer. Too bad that the front crotch length was too long. If only I had checked more closely. I could possibly take off the waistband and replace it after cutting one inch or so from the top of the shorts if I also shorten the zipper from the top by an inch. I may* do that next summer, this year I'll just pretend I meant to make high-waisted shorts.

Images: My own, McCall Patterns

*knowing me, probably NOT.

Imperial Purple Skirt - Simplicity 2152

Pattern: Simplicity 2152 c. 2011

Pattern Description: Misses' six-panel A-line skirt in three lengths with visible front pockets and deep contour waistband. Design by Karen Z.

Pattern Sizing: Size R5 (14-22), I first cut out a 16 as it matched my waist and hip measurements but later recut the same pieces as a size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the a-line shape and the large banded pockets.

Fabric Used: 1 3/4 yards 54" linen in Potent Purple (50% Poly, 50% Rayon) from Joann Fabrics, 5/8 yard Denyse Schmidt's Flea Market Fancy Medallion print in Green, matching thread, Coats & Clark 7" zipper in Fuchsia #35A, and Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Despite knowing about the excess ease in Big 4 patterns I still cut out a 16 instead of taking time to measure the flat pattern. When it turned out huge I took it apart and recut the pieces to a size 14.

Close up of pocket exterior

I chose to make view E but with the length measurement of view C. I came across this cool article on how to choose the right skirt length for your body and it makes perfect sense. Thanks TarHeel Mom! Despite this I still had to alter the hem on the back because my b**ty made it noticeably shorter.



Pocket interior

When it came to the pockets, I didn't like that there would be exposed edges left inside. I cut the pocket piece again in some Flea Market Fancy cotton and sewed it right sides together with the existing pocket encasing the pocket bands and then turned the whole thing inside-out. This resulted in a fully encased pocket without any raw edges. The colorful fabric is also a special hidden treat.

As I was sewing in the zipper I realized I had made a mistake. I had pinked the seam allowances on all my seams including the ones on the front opening. This meant there was not enough seam allowance to attach the zip correctly. I had to use black seam binding and a strip of red bias from another project to extend the seams. (Yeah, I don't care what it looks like from the inside as long as it works and lasts.*) Luckily, it turned out great and I was able to get really close to the zipper teeth on this lapped zipper.

 

Lapped zipper is too noticeable because of bulky yoke/skirt seam.

OKAY...but even after fixing that (and wearing the skirt to work twice) I realized I still wasn't happy with the zipper. I had my doubts when I did it the first time according to the directions and I should have gone with my instincts. By completely finishing the yoke/waistband/facing and then inserting the zipper, you end up sewing though too many layers of skirt and interfacing and end up with a bulky lapped zipper. I should have either attached the zipper first then folded down the facing and slip stitched to the zipper or attached it as a centered zipper in the first place. So, the option was pick, pick, pick…or leave it as is. I chose to leave it. I sewed a sturdy snap to the closure and am content with my final skirt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will. I highly recommend this pattern. I can definitely see it made in corduroy or with piping, or made in a stripe and changing the direction on some or all of the separate sections; waistband, pockets, or center band.

Conclusion: I was intrigued by this skirt above by One Avian Daemon on Pinterest and then found this near identical Simplicity pattern. I loved the placement of the pockets. Luckily, I had some suitable stash fabric to make this pattern. However, I wish I had used contrasting thread for the topstitching or piping because you can barely see the pockets. Also, because of the shortcuts I took with this no one will get to examine this skirt very closely!

My biggest suggestion is to change the construction order and sew in the zipper after attaching the yoke waistband in order to eliminate stitching through so many fabric layers.

Images: my own photos, Simplicity Patterns, One Avian Daemon

* Another reason why I don't use invisible zippers. Seriously, why bother if you can't depend on them?