Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Essential Stripe Tee - Burdastyle 02/2010 #112A

Here is my last clothing make from 2013. To see my other makes from 2013, click here.

Pattern: Burdastyle 02/2010 #112A c. 2010

Pattern Description: Knit top with raglan sleeves and wide neckline.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 36-46 (US 10-20). I originally cut it out as size 44, which corresponded to a US size 18. I then basted and cut it down slowly until I liked the fit.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, after I made some alterations.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the slight curve of the wide neckline and the slight waist shaping.

Fabric Used: An 8.5 oz. medium-weight half-inch black and white stripe cotton spandex knit (CL-1260) from GirlCharlee.com ($5.50 per yard) and Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My first issue was matching the stripes at the raglan sleeve and at the side seams. Where the sleeve joins the body needs to result in chevrons and it would be noticeable if they did not match. I used this tutorial by Sewaholic to match the striped fabric. I also used my walking foot which I think helped extremely well.

Luckily, the pattern pieces have printed match lines for striped fabrics though you could add your own to any pattern. I would even suggest if your pattern paper is transparent that you trace a stripe all across the piece to make a more accurate match.

I aligned the match lines on the pattern with particular stripes on the fabric. I did the same with the second pattern piece, matching its match lines with corresponding stripes in the fabric. Though the fabric was folded for the bodice, I cut the piece out of the top layer only. Putting aside the paper piece, I used the cut fabric piece as a guide to cut the lower layer making sure the stripes were parallel. I then used the front piece as a guide to cut the back piece matching stripes starting from the bottom. The front and back pieces were basted together by hand and I attached one sleeve in order to check the fit. I wanted my top to fit the same way as Nicole’s

At this point, the top was too large so I laid the pattern over the pieces and found that the fabric had stretched and grown. I cut down both the pattern pieces and fabric to a smaller size above the waist and a larger one below for the hips. Once I finished the alterations, I pinned and basted, by hand again, making sure that all stripes were aligned at the seams. Using a narrow zigzag stitch, I sewed the top together on my machine.

As a last step, I fused interfacing to the hems and neckline for durability. I used knit interfacing as a substitute for the Vilene bias tape suggested in the instructions. I then attached the neck binding differently, as single-fold binding, because the double-fold method they called for would have been far too bulky. I folded the hems over 1/4" and then 1/2", stitching them to the inside by hand.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, no wonder it is a popular top on patternreview.com. Depending on the knit, I will probably cut the shoulders of the next one in a size 40 (US 14) with the waist and hips staying a 42.

Conclusion: Another great knit t-shirt and perhaps another TNT pattern. My goal is a whole wardrobe of knit tops of all styles.

Images: my own, Burdastyle.com 


Summer Flies said...

Oh looks great. You can't go wrong with a striped tee can you. I love raglan sleeves and great matching!

Kyle said...

That looks really good. You did a GREAT job with the stripe matching!

Anonymous said...

A fine job stripe matching!

Beth said...

The top looks great! I love the stripes. :)

bernieandi said...

Stripes are matched to perfection! I love a classic stripe tee. Looks amazing!