4. Overblouse - Butterick 2564

Pattern Description: A back-buttoned overblouse with cut-on sleeves and shaping darts at front neck.

Pattern Sizing: Size 14 (Bust = 34", Waist = 26")



Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very. Especially after I decided to not do the bound buttonholes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the two set of darts in the front of the bodice. There are two at the collarbone which control the shape of the top above the bust and two that shape the under bust. They are really flattering. The instructions also suggested cutting your own bias binding for the sleeve hems. That worked out really well, I love how it looks since you can see the inside of the arms while wearing it.

What I didn't like were the instructions for the bound buttonholes. Now it's been a while since I did one but these instructions seemed too fussy. Luckily, I did find these on the pattern~ scissors~ cloth blog that sound much simpler.





Fabric Used: A lovely red cotton twill that I'm also using for the Colette Patterns' Oolong dress. I also used four white pearlized buttons from my late mother's button stash.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I applied fusible knit interfacing to the front neckline and on the back facings. I made the right decision in picking a knit interfacing instead of one for wovens because it adhered really well and didn't change the drape of the fabric.

I debated long and hard on doing bound buttonholes. My mind was changed when I started having more tension problems with my machine. What if that effected my machine stitched buttonholes too? So,
I practiced on leftover scrap fabric. After doing that successfully, I then applied fusible knit interfacing to the back facings and carefully measured out my button placement. Luckily, the buttonholes worked out wonderfully, even if I forgot and used two different shades of red for them. Do I really care now? No!

Would you sew it again? I hope so, it very cute with just the right retro flavor. I would probably make any others with a button and loop closure instead of buttons though for an easy slip-on type of top.

Would you recommend it to others? Yes, it's very flattering and easy. What more could you want?!

Conclusion: A great top, even though I will make any others with a button and loop closure instead of buttons down the back. Now, I want to make the coordinating jacket too!

3. Jumper Dress - Butterick 4948

Pattern Description: Butterick 4948 - Loose-fitting dress has all-in-one pointed collar and band, front neckline slit, front and back yokes, extended shoulders, in-seam pockets, and top-stitched trim.
Pattern Sizing: Size 12 (bust=34, waist=26.5, hips=36) I made a straight 12, no alterations!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, very much!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yup.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the idea of a dress that fits like an artist smock. However, the neckline is almost too short to get the dress over my head since they have you stitch the opening an inch above the yoke seam. I might have to take that stitching out or it will probably rip itself out eventually.

Fabric Used: 16-wale, 42 inch wide Blackberry Sew Classics corduroy from Jo-Ann Fabrics on sale for $6.99 per yard; Wrights Flexi-Lace Hem Tape.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made two alterations: I redrew the collar to eliminate the curve and squared it off. I also reshaped the pockets to make them bigger because I value pockets that I can really use. Then I shortened the shorter View A, which originally was supposed to be 41.25 inches by eliminating 2.5 inches. However, I will not be wearing this dress with a belt so I may shorten it by a few more inches.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will probably sew it again in a more flowing fabric. Hopefully the corduroy will release a bit more after washing, the skirt tends to stick out tent-like. I would use a better fusible interfacing on the yoke or no interfacing at all. Anything that was not sewn over stopped adhering after a few days and I'm not sure if it was really needed there.

Topstitching on the yoke and lavender lace trim on the hem

Conclusion: I like it, though now I realize I could have gone down a size. It's a bit maternity... However, if I did make it smaller I would have to lengthen the yoke, because I can barely work this dress over my head getting dressed. Any less wiggle-room and I could see some ripped seams.

So the count is 3 out of 4 mini-wardrobe items. There is only one more to go. Can I finish it this month? Stay tuned.

3rd Mini-Wardrobe Item Finished!

So, why no picture? Well, because it's been gray and raining for the last few days so the "photo shoot" will have to wait until the weekend, ok?

Well, I already wore my 1970-flavored purple jumper on Wednesday. I love it and it is definitely noticeable, being all bright purple-ly and tent-like. It looks just like the picture too. The pattern review is coming up too.

Yesterday, I wore my new black tee (mini-wardrobe item 2) and guess what? I'm loving it now! However, that means I have a situation. You see, I made all of the alterations on the final garment, only the first few changes were made to the tissue pattern. So, if I want more of these, and I do, I now have to transfer the changes from the finished garment to the pattern and make a muslin to check if I got it right. Yep, a complete backwards operation!

I will also be scanning some of those 150 patterns so I can set them up in my Etsy shop. More details to come.

So, have a great weekend everyone!

Mini-Wardrobe Contest Hitch or Salvation?

Okay, even though there were some adminstrative problems with the final date of PatternReview.com's Mini-Wardrobe contest I still got it even more wrong. I thought the deadline was Midnight last night, Tuesday!

But it didn't matter because about 4PM on Sunday I decided to give up on making the deadline. And guess what? I then did the most work on it that I'd done all week. I started on piece #3, the pullover dress. But that didn't matter because I still didn't have enough time to finish it and the vintage top, did I?

Well, now the contest deadline has officially been announced as Midnight Thursday.

Do I dare? I still don't have a storyboard or whatever they're called. I'm not that graphics handy actually. So does anybody have any ideas on how to do a storyboard, a tutorial maybe?

So...we'll see. Stay tuned.

2. Black Tee - New Look 6838

Pattern: New Look 6838 (reissued as New Look 6402)

Pattern Description: Knit tops with neckline and sleeve options.

Pattern Sizing: I originally cut a S (Bust=32.5-34, Waist=25-26.5) however, I tapered from the waist down to a M (Waist=28-30) .
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, after I made some alterations.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I don't think I look my best in scoop or crewneck tops so I was very excited about the boatneck and v-neck options of this pattern.

Fabric Used: A medium-weight black knit overlock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I found the boatneck almost too wide to allow a regular bra with straps.

The back was extra wide, enough that I had to pinch out almost an inch and a half and the neckline still sits off from the back of my neck. As it turned out, the reason was the pattern and their addition of an inch of width on the back pattern piece only. Why did they do that? How many of you are an inch wider in your back measurement than your front?

Way too much fabric!

The sleeve cap also had to be reduced, there was far too much ease in the sleeve and my first try looked like they were gathered puff sleeves. The second try (see photo) with a quarter inch shaved off the top curve worked out fine. In addition, I hardly had enough fabric to make sleeves so I ended up cutting them on the selvage so I could get more length and forgo hemming the sleeves.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will probably move on to find another TNT shirt pattern even though I will try to alter this one. However, I would still recommend it to others because the neckline is lovely, but anyone trying this pattern should measure the neckline before they cut it out.

Conclusion: I may make this again after I use this book to correct and personalize the pattern with my measurements.

UPDATE: I took in the back even more, about 1/2 inch extra in the back seam from the neckline down and scooped the back out more. Will need to do a real sway-back adjustment next time though.

Is it Panic Time Yet?

Okay, like I said, a week ago, I have two garments down (the easy ones) and two to go for this mini-wardrobe (contest or not).

Well, the truth is I still have not cut out the last two oufits! And one of them has bound buttonholes! Yes, bound buttonholes, which I have done before but that was over 10 years ago. Do I want to tempt fate and try them in the next two weeks or just do a simple button & loop closure? And, this is the first time I've ever made this garment, so...

In addition, I'll be away most of this weekend. So, yeah, I'm starting to panic already.


...deep breath... deep breath...

1. A-line Skirt - Built By Wendy (Sew U)

Pattern Description: A-line skirt from Sew U by Wendy Mullin, pattern was included in book.


Pattern Sizing: I made the Medium (sizes 6 & 8) straight from the pattern, no adjustments.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did look like the drawing in the book.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely easy to follow.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked that the pattern fit without any adjustments.
Fabric Used: A thin wale black corduroy from my stash.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made no changes to the pattern or in the sewing of the skirt. However, I did use Seams Great on all the raw edges because this fabric started to unravel. It wasn't till later I found that it also comes in black which would have been perfect for this project. Oh, well.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will definitely make this skirt again. It is now my TNT A-line skirt pattern.

Conclusion: I was amazed how well this pattern fit me. I have quite a deep curve in my back below the waistline and this skirt fit it perfectly.

Worn with Simplicity 4077 and Simplicity 3835 (another Wendy Mullin pattern)

New Projects = Wardrobe Contest?

Okay, this past winter seemed to last so long that all this new warm weather is discombobulating. In my most recent wardrobe plan I still have a few cold weather garments to sew. I just hope there will be time left to get some wear out of them.

I know I said that I wasn't going to talk about my sewing projects until they were done, but since I've already made it halfway through this plan, I changed my mind.

It also happens that these four projects (two tops, one skirt, one dress) are being constructed at the same time as PatternReview.com's most recent mini-wardrobe contest and they sort of fit the requirements in that one of the tops could be worn under the dress and make four outfits. So my goal* is to finish them before the deadline. Once done, I'll review them and see if I should go ahead and enter. Below are the patterns and fabric used for each item:

New Look 6838

Item: A short sleeve boat-neck t-shirt. I bought this pattern years ago to make the v-neck t-shirt. I am hoping to find a TNT basic top pattern and hopefully this will be it. Done

Fabric: Black medium-weight interlock knit that I found in my stash. I had just enough to make a short-sleeved version of the boat neck top.

Butterick 2564

Item: The short-sleeve top from a recent vintage purchase of mine. I love cut-on sleeve tops, so easy and elegant. I adore the matching pleats on the top and jacket so I hope to make the entire suit one day. Done.

Fabric: The same red cotton twill that I am using to make my Colette Patterns Oolong dress. The fabric feels wonderful and has great body and drape. It also takes to pressing well.

Vogue 7008

Item: A-line skirt. I did not make the skirt pictured above; however, that is exactly what it ended up looking like. (I also just love the striped skirt in the middle!) My skirt was actually made using the Wendy Mullin book, Sew U. I made the basic A-line skirt and it fit perfectly, even the curve of the back fit me, sway-back and all! Done.

Fabric: Some black 21-wale corduroy that I've had in my stash for I don't know how long. I happened to have two identical lengths that I think I purchased to make pants. The skirt was cut from only one of the lengths so I could still make a top or another skirt with the other piece.

Butterick 4948

Item: A cap-sleeved pullover jumper, to be worn without a belt. I love the smock-like shape of this dress and the handy pockets. Done.

Fabric: A gorgeous purple/blackberry 16-wale corduroy I bought at Jo-Anns. It is just light enough to make a flowing dress and the pattern image is made in corduroy. Yes, I know, no imagination. Well, I originally looked for the fabric in a red-orange too until this color and a fire-engine red showed up.

* I know, why do I do this to myself!