Everyday Dress - In the Folds/Peppermint Magazine

Completed in 2022.

 

Pattern: Peppermint Magazine Everyday Dress (2020) A collaboration with In The Folds patterns.

Pattern Description: Knee-length oversized reversible dress. One side of the dress has a soft v-neck, and the other has a round one. The dress features relaxed body sleeves, in-seam pockets, hem slits, and an optional waist tie belt.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes: (1-2-3-4-5) I chose size 3.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It looks exactly like it!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very. I think a beginner could tackle this with a video tutorial for the hem-facing section.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the simple design. It was also a quick make; I completed it in about six hours.

Fabric Used: 54" Linen-look fabric in Navy (55% linen, 45% rayon) from JoAnn Fabrics, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Eggplant #943

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The pattern is meant for 58"/60" wide fabric. However, I used fabric bought initially for another project. It was long but only 48"/54" wide, so I had to cut the sleeves to size 1 sleeve length. They ended up perfect, right at the crook of my elbow. I shortened the dress two inches since it was drafted for a 5' 7" tall person. 

The dress is meant to be comfortably oversized, but I am two different sizes and was worried the hips might end up too tight. I marked out from size 3 under the bust to size 4 at the bottom. It worked. I might not have needed to do that (it only added an inch total), but I feel secure that this dress will last longer because of this addition.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can see more of these with different sleeves and hem lengths. Though the pattern was free, the instructions were thorough and easy to complete. I would highly recommend this pattern.

Conclusion: I am pleased with this dress and how quickly it was constructed. It's a relatively simple design, but the faced hem slits and the reversible nature of the dress elevate it. This dress could also be radically transformed using different substrates, colors, and patterns.

Wide-Strap Maxi Dress - Elbe Textiles/Peppermint Magazine

Completed in 2022.

Pattern: Peppermint Magazine Wide-Strap Maxi Dress (2021) - A collaboration with Elbe Textiles.

Pattern Description: A-line maxi dress with wide shoulder straps, faced side splits, and an elasticized back.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes (A-J) I cut out size F.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It looked like the most comfortable but streamlined version of a summer caftan, but with some structure.

Fabric Used: 43" Robert Kaufman Essex linen blend in Crimson (55% linen, 45% rayon) from Fabric.com, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Chili Red #420, Crimson #347, and Dritz 1-1/2" soft waistband elastic.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: As the pattern was meant for a person taller than me, 5'7", I thought I would need to shorten the dress by three inches, but when I held the pattern up to myself, I liked the length. 

Even though I matched the pattern measurements, I was still scared of creating a dress that didn't fit, especially one made with French seams.  I held up the pieces at each step, checking to see them compared to my body. Once I tried on the basted dress, I was reassured that there was plenty of room for my hips and that the darts were in the correct location.

Looking at the written instructions, I thought constructing the slits would be difficult. This was warranted because when it came to the second pass of the French seamed sides, I wasn't sure how the side split would fit in and doubted myself. I ended up scrolling Instagram and enlarging every photo of other sewists' versions to see how their dresses looked in that area. 

Unfortunately, none looked as weird as mine, so I separated the seams and started over. I chose to sew it with a regular 1/2" seam allowance and use a faux flat-fell finish. This fulfilled the pattern's goal of a clean inside finish. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I think I would; it's a great design. I can see sewing another one in a more fluid fabric.

Conclusion: I love this dress, but it had some fit issues. The shoulder straps were unwieldy and need adjustment, they slip all over the place. I need to add the bra strap holders (which were included in the instructions) and that will fix the problem. 

Big Bad Floral Wrap Dress - New Look 6301

Pattern: New Look 6301 (2014)

Pattern Description: Misses' mock wrap dress has slim or flared skirt, several sleeve options, and three types of waist treatments (tie, no tie, band) with an elastic casing at the waist. A Just 4 Knits dress. I made View A.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (8-10-12-14-16-18-20) I cut a size 18 bodice, no alterations, to begin with...

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, fairly simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The finished garment pictures of this dress look great, and at the time, this was the only wrap dress pattern I could find with a fuller skirt.

Fabric Used: 57" double brushed knit in Multi Shana Floral (97% Rayon, 3% Spandex) from Jo-ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Claret #440 and Copenhagen #933.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: After a few pattern reviews from (Sewsarahsmith and Sew-To-Fit), I decided to take their suggestions and do the following: I added length, about 4" to each of the waist ties. I also shortened the neckband by an inch to eliminate any possible gaping in the neckline.

Printed off-grain

What I didn't expect was that my fabric would continue to stretch. By the time I basted the skirt to the bodice, it seemed to have stretched out more than three inches. Luckily, I had only basted the side seams, so I took the dress completely apart, compared it to the pattern pieces, and recut. Even the armholes had increased in size!

Waist is much lower than it should be.

I cut an inch off the skirt length. Then I shortened the bodice length by 1/2." I would have liked more but didn't want to interfere with the darts at the side waist. Both the side and shoulder seams lost about 1/2", subject to me trying it on again. I also shortened the neckband piece; since everything else had stretched out, I can only imagine that the neckline did too.

I took great care not to stretch the fabric further. After a series of Big 4 pattern sleeves being too tight on me, I cut these a size larger in width, keeping everything else the same. However, I ended up sewing the sides at 6/8" when they seemed too loose. In addition, the excess ease was ridiculous; the sleeve caps are essentially gathered. I knew then how completely OVER this dress I was since I didn't try to fix it. I needed to hem it and then put it in the magic drawer (won't be hanging this one!) until I forget all about this frustration!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I still love the pattern's look and will attempt it with a more stable knit next time.

Conclusion: This dress will be worn nonetheless. Well, until it stretches itself out beyond recognition! Unfortunately, it will not function as a muslin because I have no idea what the true fit and ease of this pattern are because of this fabric's low quality.

Historical note: Photographed after voting early, October 2020.

McCall's 7313 - Fall Floral Frock

Pattern: McCall's 7313 (2016)

Pattern Description: Pullover dresses have neckline variations, close-fitting bodice, and a hidden elastic waist. A Learn to Sew For Fun pattern. I made View D.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 18-20-22-24W

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, exactly.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely easy, as expected for a Learn to Sew pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the simple design, neckline options, and a defined waistline, which I now prefer to have in my dresses.

Fabric Used: 58" Ember Knit double brushed print fabric in Dusty Blue Abstract Floral (85% Polyester, 15% Spandex) from Jo-ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Copenhagen #933, Dritz 1/4" wide elastic

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Using the finished garment measurements, I  originally cut a size 18 bodice and a 20 skirt. Not sure about the curve of the neckline, I had planned to use Simplicity 8910 to influence the shape of the final neckline.

However, after trying on the basted dress I was disappointed to find the dress bodice was oversized,  loose, and shapeless. I took it apart and laid my altered New Look 6838 t-shirt pattern over it and shaved some width from the sides and enough length from the shoulders to bring it closer to the pattern's size 16.

I also removed the seam allowance from the back neck because it seemed too high. At this point, I realized the original neckline would work.

After having fit the bodice, I basted in the sleeves. Now being eager, I had already sewed the sleeves together and hemmed them. Pinning them into the armscye revealed that there was too much ease, almost two inches. Shortening the sleeve cap height, reducing the width of the sleeve at the underam, plus slightly gathering the basting stitches at the underarms got them to fit.

Hand stitching the full skirted hem took a few hours but I finished 48 hours out from #DCFrocktails2020, so it was all a success.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. The variety of neckline options and simple construction makes this an easy TNT (tried and true) pattern, with my pattern alterations, of course.

Conclusion: When I needed a quick no-nonsense dress, this pattern came to the rescue. The only issue is I need to start verifying the finished garment measurements before cutting into my fabric from now on. Or I could finally make that bodice sloper I keep meaning to make...come on 2020 sloper!!

She Did Good!

Harry and HRH, The Duchess of Sussex, 

Countess of Dumbarton, and Baroness Kilkeel.

Givenchy

Stella McCartney

I loved both these, the ceremony gown was even more streamlined than I had imagined and so thoughtful with symbolism. However, it was not as accurately fitted as it should have been from a design house such as Givenchy. It was disappointing but I chalk it up to the stress she's been under these last few weeks and Meghan probably not being as bothered with the loose fit to have them take the dress apart for alterations.

When I first saw Meghan, my first thought was of Princess Angela of Liechtenstein, the first black female royal bride. The dress, veil, bouquet, minimal makeup, and the lack of opulent jewels are so similar.

Princess Angela of Liechtenstein in 2000.

Then the Internet reminded me of the resemblance to some other European royal brides who also admire a classic streamlined, romantic style that allowed themselves to shine more than the dress or their adornments.

Crown Princess Mette-Marit of Norway, 2001

 and Infanta Cristina of Spain, 1997.

She did very well, indeed.

'Rolling In The Deep' Green Frock - Vogue 2745

Pattern: Vogue 2745 (2003)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, bias dress has gathered shoulders with lingerie strap guards, side insets, and shaped hemline.

Pattern Sizing: Size (14-16-18) I cut a 14 for the bust moving out to a size 18 for the waist and hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the only difficulty was in the insertion of the side panels. If I ever make it again, I will redraft those sharp angles as shallow curves instead.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the shape of this dress, I love the retro 30s style, the handkerchief hem, and how in the color I chose it evoked "that" green dress worn in Atonement by Keira Knightly.

Fabric Used: 3-1/2 yards Kelly green silk crepe de chine (100% silk) from Mood Fabrics at $22.99 a yard, 100% polyester Gutermann thread in Kelly green #760

Tools Used: Collins .5mm steel silk pins, Schmetz Microtex Sharp needle 70/10, Dritz brass sew-on snaps size 4/0, Pellon 830 Easy Pattern tracing cloth

Fabric preparation: The thing that scared me the most about this project was having to deal with sewing silk for the first time. There were many warnings about how difficult it would be to cut, how easily it could be stained if it became wet, and that it would need to be dry cleaned. After purchasing the fabric I cut a 4" x 6" swatch in two and experimented. I sprinkled water on one and washed the other by hand with a little detergent. The water drops, even when dried, left a ghost-like mark on the fabric. The washed segment, while not as smooth, gained a subtle texture, shrunk very little, and kept its sheen and glow. It could now be handwashed because my personal history proves that I do not dry clean.

Next step was trying out tools and techniques on scraps of silk. I purchased silk pins and a fine 70/10 machine needle specifically for this project. Again, everything worked well. I did not need my walking foot because the fabric did not slide around under the needle. In addition, the pins did not leave any holes.

I pre-treated the silk by submerging it in warm water mixed with a tiny drop of detergent and applied some gentle agitation. I finished by putting it in the dryer on low heat for only ten minutes in order to remove some of the water weight before letting it dry completely over my shower rod.

After the fabric was dried, but before I cut into it I wanted to make sure it was on grain and had not been stretched out by my method of drying. I pulled a thread on the crossgrain at each cut end and ensured a straight grain for this glorious silk and the best outcome for a bias gown.

 

I heard so much about how slippery silk could be to cut that other sewists cut it out between sheets of paper to keep it from moving around. Luckily, this crepe de chine gave me no worries, perhaps because of it's new texture or the subtle texture from my cutting mat. I used my rotary cutter (with a fresh new blade) and since my Olfa mat is small and could only work under a 18" x 24" section at a time, I sacrificed my $12 cardboard cutting board to the blade in order to cut all twelve pieces without moving the fabric around unnecessarily. It worked fine with minimal damage and I still haven't needed to replace the board.

Easy Pattern tracings of bodice pieces.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Just like with the slip, I traced the bodice pattern pieces with Pellon Easy Pattern so that the originals could stay intact. It's very durable and I like that it is a heavier weight and not as slippery as the paper pattern pieces because they didn't move at all when I was cutting this potentially slippery fabric. This is great stuff and I highly recommend the product.

See ripply neckline with tiny hems.

I made a muslin of the bodice in the same fabric as the slip muslin, which was an annoyingly slippery polyester. I attempted to form the tiny hems on the front and back necklines and on the armscyes. NOT pretty.

Vogue designed a single layer bodice, preferably made in a lace or sheer fabric, with rolled hems on all the edges and I did not have the confidence to believe I'd be happy with the outcome. There was too much potential for error, even if the first section turned out great there were seven other opportunities for disaster. Since using an opaque fabric I wouldn't have the issue of visible seams so I decided to line the bodice with self-fabric which would encase all the bodice seams.

Therefore, when it came to cutting out the pattern I cut the four (now eight) bodice pieces in size 16 for the shoulders, neckline, and length but cut the sides in size 14. This was my untested way to address my C-cup self in a B-cup drafted pattern. (However, this didn't work the way I expected and I wouldn't do it that way if I ever make this again.) I cut the main skirt pieces at size 14 at the waist moving out to size 18 near the inset insertion points while the inset pattern piece was cut in a straight size 18.


Construction:

I used thread tacks to make all of my pattern marks using my smallest and most delicate sewing needle. When it came to the darts, I folded them into place and thread traced the stitching line for stabilization. It worked well and became the process for all my future seams.

My construction of the bodice is, of course, different from the pattern. Besides cutting double the pieces to line the bodice, I also attached each front and back at the shoulders placing a strip of the fabric selvage in the seam for reinforcement.

Some reviews complained that the darts were pointy and I agree. I tried to alter the dart point in my stitching but I didn't have that much control with the silk. Since I had four finished darts in all, I was lucky that I could pick and choose the two least pointy ones to pair together for the outside layer of the bodice.

Per the instructions, for each seam I stitched a second line 1/4" away and trimmed close to that line. For each bodice pair, I alternated the seam allowance to reduce bulk at the shoulder; pressing them forward on the outer layers and to the back for the lining.

I paired a front and back outer layer with the corresponding lining and pinned then together within the seam allowance. Once sewn together, I pressed the seams flat using a press cloth each time. Like with all the other seams in this project I stitched another line 1/4" away and trimmed away the excess.

 

Then came the fun part of pulling the pieces through the shoulders. The pressing flat of these pieces took almost two hours(!) as I used my fingers to set down the edges precisely and then pressed them, tiny area by tiny area, using the press cloth. It's important to get a truly crisp edge as you go along for a well done finish.

I opened up the sides to sew the side seams, from the lining to the outer layer, so to leave no visible unfinished edges on the inside. After basting the bottom edge of each piece, I set them aside to work on the skirt pieces.

First thing first, I stay-stitched the top of the main skirt pieces and reinforced each inset insertion point. My lined bodice was now heavier than the pattern had planned so I thought about adding selvage strips at the waist and at the insertions for added structure but couldn't figure out how to not have those visible on the finished dress.

The side seams were sewn together, trimmed, and pressed towards the skirt back. I pinned the insets into the main skirt and basted the entire seam first, anticipating the coming difficulty of sewing them in (and the importance of getting it accurate in the silk in the one and ONLY try) This was very time consuming. I had no problems sewing the seams, I mean there were slight bubbles at each inset but it wasn't as noticeable after the dress hung for 24 hours and even less when worn on the body. I pressed and trimmed those seams as instructed.

This is the accurate color but the detail is clearer below.

It was now time to decide what to do about that 107" hem! I remembered that I owned a narrow hemmer foot bought maybe a decade earlier. However, after watching a tutorial and practicing some I was not convinced that I could use it successfully. I decided to refer to Jen Beeman at Grainline Studio for an easy rolled hem tutorial and just took it very slow and deliberate in order to not stretch the fabric and create a rippled edge.

Finishing steps:

One of my last things to do was tacking the v-neckline so that it laid flat on my chest. After trying the dress on I noticed that the bust darts were a little low so I had to take up the shoulders 1/2" for optimal placement (something I may have done to myself by trying that makeshift FBA.) I gathered them per the instructions but am not happy with the look. Because of my unique constitution I couldn't open up the seam and correct it the usual way so it was a bit sloppy. If I had more time I would have created separate fabric loops or bands to cover the gathering stitches.

I have to admit as the countdown to the wedding sped up I did not spend enough time practicing the thread chain for the lingerie strap holders so it was not as neat as it could have been but they worked and were hidden. I consider that as mischief managed.

Would have been SO easy!

Next time, I will probably go to the trouble and make my own with matching ribbon or use the store bought ones, like above.

See how well the lingerie straps were managed!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, but I would alter the pattern in the following ways:

• Shorten the bodice by 1/2" between shoulder and underarm and take in the bodice by 1/2" at the sides OR cut a straight size 14 bodice from the beginning!
• Exaggerate the scarf-like curves of the hem even more.
• Create some interest in the middle of the neckline, perhaps with a brooch or a fabric rose.
• Construct a matching thin buckled belt or a silk ribbon tie.
• Create some type of shoulder drape or neck tie for added interest.

 

These are not the shoes I wore.

Conclusion:

Testing the China silk over the slip/dress.

I had so many ridiculous doubts before buying the fabric for this dress (all having to do with money!) when I should have bought it months ago! However, the closer I got to the wedding travel date, the more research I did to justify whatever reason I chose. There was a point where I checked to see what other fabrics Mood had in that same Kelly green, hoping that one of the fabrics would be just as wonderful but cheaper, such wishful thinking! I found their polyester charmeuse for $6.99 and their China silk for $13.99. The China silk (seen above) was exactly the same shade but far too sheer and my sewing machine did not like it at all. After realizing I wouldn't be satisfied making my dress with any other fabric than the one that inspired it (DUH!) I bit the bullet and clicked that order button!

Some reviews that did convince me were Aga Hagstrom's incredibly detailed and documented pattern review entry for her wedding dress using Vogue 2745 and Lladybird Lauren's luscious blue silk crepe de chine Anna dress which convinced me that this WAS the right fabric for the job.

Information on sewing with silk:

2. Sewing with Silk - Sew 4 Home
3. More Tips and tricks-sewing with silk - Craft Stylish
1. Differences between types of silk fabrics - My Textile Notes
5. Clean finish a lined sleeveless top tutorial - The Slapdash Sewist
6. How to fully line a bodice - Kitschy Coo
4. Easy rolled hems on silk - Grainline Studio

Project Links:
Surprise! Actually Buying Fabric With a Purpose!
A Change To The Wedding Guest Dress
Wedding Guest Dress - Finalizing Details
'Song To The Siren' Slip - Vogue 2745

* Rolling in the Deep, Adele, 2011.