Monday, August 07, 2017

'Song To The Siren' Slip - Vogue 2745

Pattern: Vogue 2745 (2003)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, bias, pullover A-line slip has self-lined bodice and ribbon shoulder straps.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes (14-16-18) I made the bodice and waist in size 14 and a 16 at the hips, according to the finished garment measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? It could not have been easier to make.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the simplicity of the design but loved the structure of the lined bodice and that I could use satin ribbon instead of having to make tiny straps.

Fabric Used: 2 1/2 yards 52" Spectrum Lines India Silk (100% polyester) from Jo-Ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% natural cotton thread in Dark Turquoise #7540, Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP polyester thread in Taupe Clair #8550, 1-1/4 yards 100% polyester 1/4" Offray ribbon in Magenta.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: First things first, knowing I would likely need to alter the pattern pieces, I traced the bodice with Pellon 830 Easy Pattern tracing cloth which is like a translucent woven interfacing. It's very durable and probably could be sewn together like Swedish tracing paper but I chose to use it for tracing only.

Thread tacks for pattern markings
Muslin bodice

I started with cutting and making a muslin of the bodice. Unfortunately, I used an annoyingly slippery fabric. It shimmied out of shape after being cut so I really had no idea how accurate my decisions were based on that muslin.


However, from observing that "test" garment I cut the pieces in size 16 (finished garment measurement of 39.5" means 3" ease! !) so of course it was too big but I was just too scared to do otherwise because I'm a C-cup instead of the B-cup draft for this pattern. I didn't want to have to do a FBA for a slip! I decided to keep the size 16 for height and even added a half inch at the bottom for my additional "fullness" but I cut a size 14 for width, and hoped that would work. Luckily, it did!

The final fabric was SO much easier to cut out despite having to be cut as a single layer. As it turned out it was also easier to sew and press. I adore this fabric, seriously.

After sewing up the bodice and stay-stitching the skirt sections I pinned the pieces together and realized I had made a rookie mistake and hadn't cut the top part of the skirt down to match the new size 14 width of the bodice...duh.

So I recut the fabric and the pattern. I then sat down for a hand basting session to join the bodice to the front skirt, (overlapping a bit at center) and attach the facing to the back skirt. I believe basting by hand is the best way to tame any slippery fabric before sewing it by machine.

I slipped the dress on again. You know, my fear of a dress not fitting over my hips is real y'all! I have to check them all the time especially since the muslin for this was cut from the discards of a disappointing wader with that exact problem.

Even though this was made from polyester I still let the dress (with the sides loosely basted) hang for 24 hours, just in case. It did not stretch so I finished the side seams. The next steps to complete were the hand stitching to secure the back facing and attachment of the straps to the back.

Check out that delicate baby hem!

Of course there was the temptation to not hem the slip since the hem was cut by rotary blade; however, I knew the fabric would behave amazingly so I made a narrow hem on the dress.

In the end, there was still some gaping and I did have to tack little darts on the sides of the cup. It was nothing even slightly scandalous but I just didn't like how loose it felt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, definitely. It may take some time and patience to track down a copy of this c. 2003 pattern on Etsy. It is extremely flattering because of the bias (I may have preened a bit in my mirror) and easier to complete because the straps were made from ribbon and the construction of any fiddly rouleau loops was not needed.


Conclusion: This was exactly what I needed and wanted. It worked as a two-in-one garment, which I wore both as a stand-alone dress for all the pre-wedding setup and as a slip under the main silk dress (also from this pattern) for the wedding and reception.

Surprise! Actually Buying Fabric With a Purpose!
A Change To The Wedding Guest Dress
Wedding Guest Dress - Finalizing Details
''Rollin' In The Deep' Green Frock -Vogue 2745

*Song To the SirenThis Mortal Coil, 1983 (by Tim Buckley, 1970)


Audrey said...

This dress/slip is so pretty with the fabric cut on the bias and the great fit. Clever idea to make it so that you can wear it both as a stand alone dress and as a very pretty slip under another dress

Kyle said...

It looks SO SO SO good Lisa! Fabulous!!!

Faye Lewis said...

So pretty! Love that print.

Summer Flies said...

This so so gorgeous! You've done a great job and how clever to use it as slip and as a dress. Two for one!