The Doppleganger Shell - Butterick 6424

Pattern: Butterick 6424 (2016)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting top with an all-in-one facing.

Pattern Sizing: Size E5 (14-16-18-20-22) I cut a 14 at top moving out to an 18 at waist and hips.

Did it look like you photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but it took some extra work to get there.

Were the instructions easy to follow Yes, though I might make changes in the construction order if I make it again. Attaching the shoulder bands without being able to test the strap length is problematic.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This top was a shape and construction I had not seen before. This was the only item in this multi-garment pattern that I needed or wanted.

Fabric Used: Ponteroma knit in Winter White for $3 (orig. $15) from the Hancock Fabrics liquidation sale.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Trying it on as I went along I found I had to shorten the back straps by 1/4", cutting the pattern piece down two sizes. I also had to bring the placement of each strap in towards the centers a total of 1/4" to get them to stay on my shoulders.

This in turn meant the gradual curve from the strap to the armscye was no longer there and I had to change the angle when sewing the self-facing together.

Unfortunately, when sewing the armscye together I think I may have stretched the fabric out. The entire underarm area sticks out from the body, gaping, and showing far more skin than it should. A makeshift awkward dart had to be made for correction (not yet done at time of photos).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? When I saw this pattern I assumed I would make it in multiples. However, the construction and fit was enough to make me think twice about attempting it again. Some of the issues were with the pattern and a lot were because of how it fit my particular body; however, I still would recommend it. I will try it again but make the following changes: narrow the shoulder straps and when cutting the front and back on fold I'll move the pieces in 1/8-1/4" to narrow the bodice width.

A post shared by All The Pretty Birds (@tamumcpherson) on Jul 13, 2017 at 6:29am PDT

Conclusion: After choosing this pattern, I found two photos online showing extremely similar tops, one on comedian Nasim Pedrad and another on fashion blogger Tamu McPherson. These solidified my desire to have this in my wardrobe. However, I now see that these tops were made from stretch fabrics unlike the stable knit I used so they resulted in a fit I could not achieve. But, next time...

Love Symbol #2 Pencil Skirt - New Look 6843

Pattern: New Look 6843 (2011)

Pattern Description: Straight and A-line skirts in two different lengths.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (8-18) I originally cut out a size 18 according to the measurement chart.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, extremely easy. This is the simplest of skirts. However, for me...

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the variety of shapes and sometimes I prefer a straight waistband to a contoured one.

Fabric Used: 1 yard 58" Sew Classic bengaline suiting in Blackberry*/**(81% poly, 15% rayon, 4% spandex) from Jo-Ann for $6.50 (orig. $12.99 at 50% off), 7" Coats & Clark All Purpose zipper in #13 Navy, Wrights 3/4" Flexi-Lace hem tape, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Eggplant #943.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: According to the finished measurements, the size 18 (my measurements) would have left 4" of wearing ease for the hips, which would have been excessive! I needed to cut between a size 16 and 18, to eliminate around 2" of that ease.

Note: When I chose this pattern I thought it was a former TNT for me but I was actually thinking of a different pattern! I had only made the A-line version of this pattern; therefore, an accurately shaped hip line hadn't been as crucial.

When I altered the skirt, I found that the back skirt was drafted wider than the front. When the pattern pieces were placed atop one another the size 18 front piece matched the size 16 back, according to the cutting lines. I had never encountered that before; however, it makes sense since I surely have more volume back there than in front. I cut the back piece down to size 16 (eliminating 1/2" for a total of 2") to make the skirt fit.

I believe in marking my darts in chalk after fabric tacking. Sometimes if I think there will be some time between cutting a project out and sewing I will also baste along the chalk lines. I then baste the actual darts together before the final stitching for accuracy. It may be overkill but I am rarely unhappy with my finished darts...so better safe than sorry.

Surprisingly, the hip curve was too pronounced and I had to shave almost 1/4" off the high hip, tapering back out to the pattern above and below.

I know the majority of blog sewists use invisible zippers but I've never used one. I am quite happy with my centered zippers. They're neat, clean, and I've always been able to depend on them and have never had a broken zipper. To be honest, I may be a little scared of trying something new too but if it ain't broke...

In this case, I cut the skirt backs out so the fabric selvage would be the zipper seam allowance. I basted directly along my stitching line to ensure it being straight and produced as near a perfect zipper insertion as possible. The key to a neat and precise centered zipper is keeping the seam basted while you sew it in, ensuring that the edges cover all signs of the zipper when closed. In fact, if you also pickstitch your zipper there's really no visual difference from an invisible one.

The narrow waistband was easy to construct and provided a nice session of hand sewing. Strangely, even though I had reduced the pattern side seams, including the waist, by 1", the size 18 waistband notches still matched.

I decided against the skirt side slit once it was basted and I tried it on. The skirt didn't need it for walking and it was extremely awkward when sitting. (Always remember to practice sitting and climbing stairs when making skirts and pants.)

When trying on the skirt I noticed that the skirt was hanging awkwardly below the hipline. I don't know if it was because of the stretch fabric or perhaps the grain was off at the back center seam.

After trying on the skirt with the finished zipper and waistband, the next thing I did was peg the skirt some by tapering a bit by coming in 1/4" from the bottom of each side seam allowance (for a 1 inch decrease in the skirt hem circumference) and blending back out an inch or so below the widest part of my hips. While this improved the overall skirt shape it was still flaring out from the body at the center back.

I eventually decided to take in the back seam 1/4" at the hem blending back to the seam allowance below the zipper and that fixed it.

After the alterations to the constructed skirt were finally completed I had a skirt that hung straight and slim. I used a slightly shorter hem in the back to create more length there to accommodate my extra volume and allow for an even all-around hem.

Truly invisible hem, right?

As it turned out, my job of straightening this hem was such an event that surprisingly I ended up with a tiny 1/4" hem. Because of this I knew I couldn't finish the hem my usual way so I used some leftover pink hem lace and slip-stitched it down. Isn't it pretty?

I like the rear view ; ).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would not make again. There were far too many alterations needed to make this skirt fit my body and I didn't transfer them to the pattern. I would rather start all over with a new pattern. I can't say that it's a bad pattern as it's a favorite of many sewists but it just did not work for me.

Coordinated me-made outfit.

Conclusion: A hard won simple straight skirt which nonetheless ended up looking great and will be a staple in my wardrobe and it's in a color, not black! I'm happy.

* Love Symbol #2 is a new purple color that Pantone created for the estate of the late artist Prince. Therefore, this is a Prince Purple Pencil skirt.I

** Since I made this Pantone also declared this shade of purple the 2018 Color of the Year.

Summer Breeze Top - Butterick 6464

Pattern: Butterick 6464 (2017)

Pattern Description: Fitted, pullover halter top has back button loop closure and neckband.

Pattern Sizing: E5 (14-16-18-20-22) I cut a size 14 at the neck but a 16 for everything else.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, though there were a few fiddly bits when it came to the halter facing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I had an inspiration pic showing a top like this with a full gathered skirt (see below) and this pattern allowed me to replicate it as a great top for a humid summer.

Fabric Used: 52" Spectrum Lines India Silk (100% polyester) from Jo-Ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% natural cotton thread in Dark Turquoise #7540, Pellon EK130 Easy-Knit fusible tricot interfacing.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Though I had read the reviews showing many tops had been lengthened 2-3", I completely forgot that when I cut mine. I also originally cut a 16 but looking back at Liesl's version I choose to trust the finished garment measurements and recut the neckline areas in a size 14.

This fabric was great for constructing the tiny hems that made up the front and back openings and making the binding needed for the arms.

I had some difficulty dealing with the circular neck band and fitting the neckline edges of the top into it while also evenly gathering the two front portions. It took a lot of pins, patience, and basting! I do NOT suggest trying that part late at night.

Lots and lots of pins...

Then there was a round of hand stitching to secure the other side of the neckband. The instructions have you sew a line of edge stitching which I decided against. I did debate about making a buttonhole as designed or using snaps instead. After a few practice ones on some scraps I went with a buttonhole and it was the first I've made in two or three years. Check out that glowing button, it was one of many great choices in my button stash jar.

The only thing left was to hem the top. If I make this again I will make it longer so it can be tucked it into waistbands. Also, this next photo reveals that an additional two inches will need to be added just to the front.

Obviously, the first time using a camera remote!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would. Perhaps I'll make another in a solid fabric and maybe redesign the neckline into a simpler casing with a narrow tie instead.

The inspiration.

Pictured with a new skirt.

Conclusion: This top turned out exactly as I wanted. It was a cool design for summer and because of the fabric choice, it worked with most of my wardrobe. In fact, I made a purple skirt specifically to coordinate. I am extremely happy with this pattern.

'Rolling In The Deep' Green Frock - Vogue 2745

Pattern: Vogue 2745 (2003)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, bias dress has gathered shoulders with lingerie strap guards, side insets, and shaped hemline.

Pattern Sizing: Size (14-16-18) I cut a 14 for the bust moving out to a size 18 for the waist and hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the only difficulty was in the insertion of the side panels. If I ever make it again, I will redraft those sharp angles as shallow curves instead.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the shape of this dress, I love the retro 30s style, the handkerchief hem, and how in the color I chose it evoked "that" green dress worn in Atonement by Keira Knightly.

Fabric Used: 3-1/2 yards Kelly green silk crepe de chine (100% silk) from Mood Fabrics at $22.99 a yard, 100% polyester Gutermann thread in Kelly green #760

Tools Used: Collins .5mm steel silk pins, Schmetz Microtex Sharp needle 70/10, Dritz brass sew-on snaps size 4/0, Pellon 830 Easy Pattern tracing cloth

Fabric preparation: The thing that scared me the most about this project was having to deal with sewing silk for the first time. There were many warnings about how difficult it would be to cut, how easily it could be stained if it became wet, and that it would need to be dry cleaned. After purchasing the fabric I cut a 4" x 6" swatch in two and experimented. I sprinkled water on one and washed the other by hand with a little detergent. The water drops, even when dried, left a ghost-like mark on the fabric. The washed segment, while not as smooth, gained a subtle texture, shrunk very little, and kept its sheen and glow. It could now be handwashed because my personal history proves that I do not dry clean.

Next step was trying out tools and techniques on scraps of silk. I purchased silk pins and a fine 70/10 machine needle specifically for this project. Again, everything worked well. I did not need my walking foot because the fabric did not slide around under the needle. In addition, the pins did not leave any holes.

I pre-treated the silk by submerging it in warm water mixed with a tiny drop of detergent and applied some gentle agitation. I finished by putting it in the dryer on low heat for only ten minutes in order to remove some of the water weight before letting it dry completely over my shower rod.

After the fabric was dried, but before I cut into it I wanted to make sure it was on grain and had not been stretched out by my method of drying. I pulled a thread on the crossgrain at each cut end and ensured a straight grain for this glorious silk and the best outcome for a bias gown.

 

I heard so much about how slippery silk could be to cut that other sewists cut it out between sheets of paper to keep it from moving around. Luckily, this crepe de chine gave me no worries, perhaps because of it's new texture or the subtle texture from my cutting mat. I used my rotary cutter (with a fresh new blade) and since my Olfa mat is small and could only work under a 18" x 24" section at a time, I sacrificed my $12 cardboard cutting board to the blade in order to cut all twelve pieces without moving the fabric around unnecessarily. It worked fine with minimal damage and I still haven't needed to replace the board.

Easy Pattern tracings of bodice pieces.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Just like with the slip, I traced the bodice pattern pieces with Pellon Easy Pattern so that the originals could stay intact. It's very durable and I like that it is a heavier weight and not as slippery as the paper pattern pieces because they didn't move at all when I was cutting this potentially slippery fabric. This is great stuff and I highly recommend the product.

See ripply neckline with tiny hems.

I made a muslin of the bodice in the same fabric as the slip muslin, which was an annoyingly slippery polyester. I attempted to form the tiny hems on the front and back necklines and on the armscyes. NOT pretty.

Vogue designed a single layer bodice, preferably made in a lace or sheer fabric, with rolled hems on all the edges and I did not have the confidence to believe I'd be happy with the outcome. There was too much potential for error, even if the first section turned out great there were seven other opportunities for disaster. Since using an opaque fabric I wouldn't have the issue of visible seams so I decided to line the bodice with self-fabric which would encase all the bodice seams.

Therefore, when it came to cutting out the pattern I cut the four (now eight) bodice pieces in size 16 for the shoulders, neckline, and length but cut the sides in size 14. This was my untested way to address my C-cup self in a B-cup drafted pattern. (However, this didn't work the way I expected and I wouldn't do it that way if I ever make this again.) I cut the main skirt pieces at size 14 at the waist moving out to size 18 near the inset insertion points while the inset pattern piece was cut in a straight size 18.


Construction:

I used thread tacks to make all of my pattern marks using my smallest and most delicate sewing needle. When it came to the darts, I folded them into place and thread traced the stitching line for stabilization. It worked well and became the process for all my future seams.

My construction of the bodice is, of course, different from the pattern. Besides cutting double the pieces to line the bodice, I also attached each front and back at the shoulders placing a strip of the fabric selvage in the seam for reinforcement.

Some reviews complained that the darts were pointy and I agree. I tried to alter the dart point in my stitching but I didn't have that much control with the silk. Since I had four finished darts in all, I was lucky that I could pick and choose the two least pointy ones to pair together for the outside layer of the bodice.

Per the instructions, for each seam I stitched a second line 1/4" away and trimmed close to that line. For each bodice pair, I alternated the seam allowance to reduce bulk at the shoulder; pressing them forward on the outer layers and to the back for the lining.

I paired a front and back outer layer with the corresponding lining and pinned then together within the seam allowance. Once sewn together, I pressed the seams flat using a press cloth each time. Like with all the other seams in this project I stitched another line 1/4" away and trimmed away the excess.

 

Then came the fun part of pulling the pieces through the shoulders. The pressing flat of these pieces took almost two hours(!) as I used my fingers to set down the edges precisely and then pressed them, tiny area by tiny area, using the press cloth. It's important to get a truly crisp edge as you go along for a well done finish.

I opened up the sides to sew the side seams, from the lining to the outer layer, so to leave no visible unfinished edges on the inside. After basting the bottom edge of each piece, I set them aside to work on the skirt pieces.

First thing first, I stay-stitched the top of the main skirt pieces and reinforced each inset insertion point. My lined bodice was now heavier than the pattern had planned so I thought about adding selvage strips at the waist and at the insertions for added structure but couldn't figure out how to not have those visible on the finished dress.

The side seams were sewn together, trimmed, and pressed towards the skirt back. I pinned the insets into the main skirt and basted the entire seam first, anticipating the coming difficulty of sewing them in (and the importance of getting it accurate in the silk in the one and ONLY try) This was very time consuming. I had no problems sewing the seams, I mean there were slight bubbles at each inset but it wasn't as noticeable after the dress hung for 24 hours and even less when worn on the body. I pressed and trimmed those seams as instructed.

This is the accurate color but the detail is clearer below.

It was now time to decide what to do about that 107" hem! I remembered that I owned a narrow hemmer foot bought maybe a decade earlier. However, after watching a tutorial and practicing some I was not convinced that I could use it successfully. I decided to refer to Jen Beeman at Grainline Studio for an easy rolled hem tutorial and just took it very slow and deliberate in order to not stretch the fabric and create a rippled edge.

Finishing steps:

One of my last things to do was tacking the v-neckline so that it laid flat on my chest. After trying the dress on I noticed that the bust darts were a little low so I had to take up the shoulders 1/2" for optimal placement (something I may have done to myself by trying that makeshift FBA.) I gathered them per the instructions but am not happy with the look. Because of my unique constitution I couldn't open up the seam and correct it the usual way so it was a bit sloppy. If I had more time I would have created separate fabric loops or bands to cover the gathering stitches.

I have to admit as the countdown to the wedding sped up I did not spend enough time practicing the thread chain for the lingerie strap holders so it was not as neat as it could have been but they worked and were hidden. I consider that as mischief managed.

Would have been SO easy!

Next time, I will probably go to the trouble and make my own with matching ribbon or use the store bought ones, like above.

See how well the lingerie straps were managed!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, but I would alter the pattern in the following ways:

• Shorten the bodice by 1/2" between shoulder and underarm and take in the bodice by 1/2" at the sides OR cut a straight size 14 bodice from the beginning!
• Exaggerate the scarf-like curves of the hem even more.
• Create some interest in the middle of the neckline, perhaps with a brooch or a fabric rose.
• Construct a matching thin buckled belt or a silk ribbon tie.
• Create some type of shoulder drape or neck tie for added interest.

 

These are not the shoes I wore.

Conclusion:

Testing the China silk over the slip/dress.

I had so many ridiculous doubts before buying the fabric for this dress (all having to do with money!) when I should have bought it months ago! However, the closer I got to the wedding travel date, the more research I did to justify whatever reason I chose. There was a point where I checked to see what other fabrics Mood had in that same Kelly green, hoping that one of the fabrics would be just as wonderful but cheaper, such wishful thinking! I found their polyester charmeuse for $6.99 and their China silk for $13.99. The China silk (seen above) was exactly the same shade but far too sheer and my sewing machine did not like it at all. After realizing I wouldn't be satisfied making my dress with any other fabric than the one that inspired it (DUH!) I bit the bullet and clicked that order button!

Some reviews that did convince me were Aga Hagstrom's incredibly detailed and documented pattern review entry for her wedding dress using Vogue 2745 and Lladybird Lauren's luscious blue silk crepe de chine Anna dress which convinced me that this WAS the right fabric for the job.

Information on sewing with silk:

2. Sewing with Silk - Sew 4 Home
3. More Tips and tricks-sewing with silk - Craft Stylish
1. Differences between types of silk fabrics - My Textile Notes
5. Clean finish a lined sleeveless top tutorial - The Slapdash Sewist
6. How to fully line a bodice - Kitschy Coo
4. Easy rolled hems on silk - Grainline Studio

Project Links:
Surprise! Actually Buying Fabric With a Purpose!
A Change To The Wedding Guest Dress
Wedding Guest Dress - Finalizing Details
'Song To The Siren' Slip - Vogue 2745

* Rolling in the Deep, Adele, 2011.