Cosy Knit Cardigan - McCall's 7254

Pattern: McCall's 7254 (2015)

Pattern Description: Unlined close-fitting cardigan with self-lined fronts extending into collar and back peplum.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes Y (XS-M) and Z (L-XL) Because of my measurements I assumed I would need to use a combination, M for the bust and L for waist and hips.



Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, very much. I was extremely pleased with the accuracy of the pattern images.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, this a very straightforward pattern. A beginner could easily produce a well made garment.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was really interested in the fact that this cozy design could also stand in for a casual blazer.

Fabric Used: Navy cotton interlock from Hancock Fabrics liquidation sale ($2.60 per yard, orig. $12.99), Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Navy #272, Pellon EK130 Easy-Knit fusible tricot interfacing, vintage* Wright's Trims non-shrink seam binding in Navy #55.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I debated on which pattern combination to buy and during a $1 pattern sale I went ahead and bought both size groups. The idea was to use the upper bodice pieces from the size M and blend them with the size L pieces for the peplum.

First, I pencil traced the size M onto the larger size pattern in case I would need to taper from one size to another. Noticeably, the sleeve patterns for the two size groups are completely different in cap height and armscye curves so I could only choose which sleeve works best after I selected the correct bodice. Therefore, I only cut out the pattern pieces in the Large size. Then from the fabric I cut the bodice pieces and stitched them together to see if I would even need to use the smaller size pieces.

Liking the fit, I chose to cut size Large for everything but I did shave a bit from the bodice armscye; cutting halfway between the M and L sizes, because the shoulders seemed a bit wide.

I interfaced the collar facing and loved how the interlock was transformed, it achieved a sleekness and body. The only issue was when I was basting the facings to the collar at the raw edges, unless I slowly smoothed out the unfaced side the edges stretched or contracted and would not match.

All the seams in this pattern are finished with two rows of stitching 1/4" apart, trimmed close, and the seam allowances are pressed to one side using steam and a pressing block. For a non-fraying knit this makes for a great finish to the project.

Before the final trim and pressing.

This cardigan can be fastened to more resemble a jacket but I think I will leave it this way. I am very happy with how it turned out.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! I love the feel of this cardigan, especially the interfaced foldover collar/peplum. I actually find myself petting it. The only way it could be better is if I had block fused the back bodice piece with the same knit interfacing.

Check out that smooth peplum.

Conclusion: I love this cardigan. I will probably make this again but I will shorten the main bodice length by two inches. I would like the back peplum seam to hit right above my derriere instead of getting hung up on it.

There are similar designs to this pattern out there in the indie world like the Mouse House Creation Julia and the Style Arc Fiona cardigans, but I chose this one because I am more familiar with Big 4 pattern instructions and these McCall's patterns only cost me $2!!



Julia and Fiona

Note the strong resemblance to the Fiona.

* Thanks, Allie J!

Winter White Twist Top - Butterick 5429

Pattern: Butterick 5429 (2009)

Pattern Description: Long sleeve top with front neckline twist, dropped shoulders, and stitched hem.

Pattern Sizing: Size BB (8-10-12-14) I made a size 8 after noting when I made it before that the pattern ran large.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Not really, as it was not as fitted as the illustration would have you believe.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was intrigued by the twist detail at the center front. I liked the idea of a very simple top but with interest. However,  when I made the pattern the first time I found the pattern illustration deceiving. The top did not have a close fit at the waist, in fact, it resembled a square with no waist shaping.

Fabric Used: Ponteroma knit in Winter White for $3 per yard (orig $15) from Hancock Fabrics liquidation sale.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Because I have made this before, I used a altered pattern closer to a size 8, actually two sizes smaller than the pattern would have me make according to my measurements. However, since I was also making this in a stable ponte instead of cotton jersey like the last top I added 1/4" to each width-wise seam when I cut it out.

This is the second time that I've made this top so I have an adjusted pattern now. However, if you are working from the original you may wish to remove some of that extra fabric hanging beneath the twist. I suggest you scoop out the front seam, curving in from the bottom of the open twist to one inch at the middle and and then back out to the hem, blending out to the original seam.

I found it much easier to hand stitch the twist loop edges because they would show when wearing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, with my adapted pattern this is now one of my TNT patterns. I have now made it in three different fabrics; nylon/spandex blend, cotton jersey, and ponte. I still recommend it to others because of the design but strongly suggest that a muslin be made first.

This could also be quite interesting with a different color, a sheer fabric, or a similar but different sized print in the upper bodice/sleeve area.

Conclusion: An easy but interesting top that can be had if you are willing to do a little work.

Last of the Summer Shorts - New Look 6216

Pattern: New Look 6216 (2013)


Pattern Description: Misses' pull-on pants with drawstring waist and easy knit top with scoop neck and short all-in-one sleeves or higher neckline with 3/4 dolman sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (8-18) I chose size 18 based on the finished garment measurements.  

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? I changed them into shorts and eliminated the drawstring, but yes, I guess they do look like the picture.

Were the instructions easy to follow? These are extremely easy to make, there is one error in the pattern but it is very easy to correct.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted easy pants, so the elastic waist was a plus and the pockets are just so extremely clever and easy.

Fabric Used: Sew Classics denim heather solid suiting* $6.99 per yard from Jo-Ann Fabrics; thread; and Dritz 1-inch wide braided elastic.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: This is the second time using this pattern for pants. My earlier pair no longer fit comfortably, so I had to increase the seam allowances. I originally cut a 14, so this time I added 1" to the sides to allow for the two-size jump to an 18, therefore, supplying 4" of wearing ease.

Another change needed in the original pair was that the front waistband rose too high and the back was too low. In order to fit my particular body, I slashed and spread, added 1" to the center back crotch length and eliminated the same amount on the center front. The trousers were designed to sit just below the natural waistline but on me that was too tall.

I used an existing pair of shorts to determine how long to make these. I ended up cutting them right below the notches at the hip resulting in a 4" inseam measurement.

There is an error in the pattern piece for the waistband. The waist of the shorts are smaller than the sewn waistband piece. I suppose when I first made these I believed the error was mine and I fixed it then by creating two pleats in the front. But here it is again. My remedy was to only match the side seams and the middle point of the waistband to the corresponding points on the shorts. I also basted the waist of the shorts so I could gather it to match the width of the waistband. Since this area would eventually be gathered further by elastic, I knew it wouldn't matter or look strange.

I attached the elastic waistband and as some twisting was already apparent, I top-stitched the waistband, sewing right up to the edge of the enclosed elastic. After distributing the gathers around the shorts, with the majority in the back, I "stitched in the ditch" at the side and back seams to further keep the elastic in place.

To hem the shorts I gathered along the seam line to ease them in a bit and hand stitched the hem in place. A light steam on the hem helped "shrink" up the majority of the resulting puckers.

Conclusion: The pattern made very cute shorts. There was some kind of problem; however, where the shorts rode up in the rear as I walked. Obviously, this was not evident in the long legged version, so must have something to do with my alteration of the crotch length, perhaps I needed to add some back to the inner leg seam. However, for end of summer shorts, they were fine and they did make it through an entire day of walking through Busch Gardens!

*I can't say more great things about this fabric, I now have four garments made from it. Yes, it's polyester but I love the feel and how hearty it is, no wrinkles (!), dries quickly, and takes a good press. Luckily, Jo-Anns has been selling it consistently for the last six years.

If It Ain't Broke Dress - New Look 6216

 

Pattern: New Look 6216 (2013)

Pattern Description: Top with wide scoop neck and cut-on sleeves with hem bands.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (8-18) I cut this one using my previously adapted pattern for View B. Those extensive adaptations altered the pattern to an 8 at the neckline and shoulder, a 14 for the sleeve length, 10 at the bust, 8 right above the waist, and tapering back out to a 12 at the hip.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, but I extended the length of this one for a dress.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It is a very quick and easy design and I found the neckline very flattering.

Fabric Used: One yard of navy blue and heather gray half-inch striped (50% cotton, 25% rayon, 25% poly) knit from Girl Charlee.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: For my original alterations to this pattern, please refer to this blog post. I made this boxy top much more flattering to my figure than the original pattern design by applying changes. For this version of the pattern, I wanted a dress so I extended the length about 17 inches, widening out from a size 12 at the high hip.

Since I had made this pattern before in a stripe fabric, I decided to trace the pattern so I could create a full-size pattern and cut it out as a single layer. My only hesitation was I had no idea how much width to add for an A-line dress. I eventually chose to compare the finished garment measurements of  both Butterick 6182 and McCall's 7432 and use the skirt portions of their patterns to create a template for the skirt of this dress.

Since I chose to use a full-size pattern, the cutting was so much easier. To ensure the stripes matching on the finished garment I just had to remember the position of the underarm curve and the pattern notches on their corresponding stripes when laying out the pattern.

I finished my seams in my tried-and-true way of a line of zigzag stitching on the seam lines that need stretch and then a straight stitch 1/8" away. I then trimmed the seam allowance down closer to the stitching.

The construction of this dress was so easy that I was able to complete the majority of it the night before a trip. Fortunately, the use of parallel stripes and a knit allowed me to cut the bottom of the dress along a single stripe and wear it as-is.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will definitely make this one again especially as I now have a pattern for a dress version and I know how quick it is to sew.

Conclusion: Another great custom TNT pattern for me.

*Modeled photos taken by Vacuuming the Lawn on the streets of Philadelphia.

Twist Yet Again Top - Irmchen (Burdastyle)

Pattern: "Let's Twist Again..." pattern by Irmchen, available at Burdastyle, FREE!

Pattern Description: Loose, asymmetrical top with twisted side draping and over-long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: German size 42, according to directions.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? YES!

Were the instructions easy to follow? So easy, they weren't even provided!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It has a simple shape, yet when made up it is unusual and was an extremely easy and fast sew.This will be my second time making this pattern.


Fabric Used: 2 yards of 60" Shitake Brown/Heather Gray half-inch striped jersey knit (50% cotton, 25% poly, 25% rayon) from Girl Charlee, which was on sale for $1.50 a yard!

Ignore my belly in this picture, please.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: As before, I added length to the sleeves when I cut it out while also adding a bit of width because the original top's sleeves were a bit tight at the wrists. I cut both the pattern and fabric out a little larger than the pattern piece and chose to sew a 1/2" seam allowances.

I sewed a small narrow zig-zag while slightly stretching the fabric. I then went over that stitching a second time for strength. The sleeve hems were folded over 1/4" twice and slip stitched. I did the same for the neckline and for this version, I chose to attach the optional hem band included with the pattern.

Multiple pins guarantee matched stripes.

The other side: ta da!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! This item is so quick to make, the only thing that took time was the hand stitching. I may not add the hem band to any others because I think it brings attention to my expanding waistline more than I'd like. However, the best thing is that the pattern is still free after all this time.

Conclusion: I now have another version of this top that will go with some other items in my wardrobe. I love how it is a t-shirt to just grab and put on and an interesting top. The first one I made was from a knit that had some Lycra content while this one is a basic cotton knit. If I make this again, I will probably choose another beefy stretch knit as this feels a bit flimsy for this style. But I still like this version and how could I not, the price of this top (not including tape and printer paper costs), was under $4.00!

Stacked Triangle Wrap Skirt - Simplicity 1163

Pattern: Simplicity 1163 (2015)

Pattern Description: Misses' knit skirt with option of asymmetric faux wrap, flat front, or pleated front drape with length variations.

Pattern Sizing: Size R5 (14-16-18-20-22) I chose a size 18 reflecting my new measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Most definitely.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I always love a simple knit pattern. The front drape gives it some interest and the near-flat pull-on waistband makes it sleek and easy to wear.

Fabric Used: 60" Black Triangle Square Print on Off White 10 oz. weight Ponte de Roma (45% Rayon/50% Poly/5% Spandex) from Girl Charlee and 2 inch black Dritz soft waistband elastic.

Check out this side seam! Can you even see it?

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I cut out a size 18 and the finished measurements stated the hip would be 43" which is an inch larger than my hips. That would be fine but it felt much looser than that and more importantly, it was too wide to attach evenly to the shorter waistband. Perhaps, it wouldn't be a problem with a stretchier knit, but this ponte could only go so far. Therefore, the waistband could barely get over my hips, so I reduced the seam allowance to 1/2" on the waistband. I then increased the side seam allowances of the skirt to 1 inch. Luckily, meeting halfway worked out and with a bit of stretching I was able to make the two match.

Once I had the elastic in the waistband, I tried on the skirt and could see that it was more a-line than I expected. That was my fault because it is illustrated in the drawing above. I debated slimming it down but decided against it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, it is a very simple pattern that produces a great skirt with interest.

Conclusion: I love the waistband, which practically lays flat on me. It would be flatter on someone that has a smaller difference between their waist and hip numbers. I also like that the a-line shape adds a little swing to the skirt which makes it pretty sassy.

Mod Stripe Dress - McCall's 6886

Pattern: McCall's 6886 (2014)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, pullover dress with neckline and sleeve length variations.

Pattern Sizing: E5 (14-16-18-20-22) I cut a size 14 tapering down to a size 18 at the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, after my alterations and changes, it does.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much. If alteration had not been needed, it would have been a very quick sew.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Fabric Used: 60" jade and mustard striped ponte de roma (80% polyester/15% rayon/ 5% Spandex) from Mood Fabrics, item # 107912.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Well, for starters, I made sure to use my correct measurements and to choose my size according to the pattern's finished garment measurements. Even then, changes had to be made.

I found the neckline to be a bit too wide and the depth far too long, about an inch too deep. Therefore, I had to reduce the length from shoulder line to underarm.

I've seen the versions online and noticed that the dress fit so many different body types and sizes; however, the extreme curve of my back did not work with the line of the dress. My first thought was to create a false seam down the back of the dress by folding it down the center and sewing a curved seam to alter the dress. However, I chose to create two side darts instead. There was some try and error as to how long the darts should be. in the end there was still some extra length above the waist but nothing I couldn't live with. I just need to remember to remove it from the pattern.

When I basted the dress it was hard to imagine the final fit and there were drag lines at the underarm area that I hoped I could remove. I decided to attach the sleeves flat. This way I could see if the drag lines disappear when the shoulder seam no longer hung down and it would also make it easier to enlarge or decrease the side seams easily, if needed.

What this showed was that the dress was still too large in the bodice at the front, the back fit perfectly. I undid ALL of the basting, pulled out the pattern again and recut the bodice to a size 14, including the armscye. Once the sleeves were reattached, the majority of the drag lines had been removed.

It was easy to hem the sleeves and skirt with a simple zig-zag line of stitching in order to preserve the stretch.

However, the fold over and stitch method was not ideal for the neckline and I decided to create a neck band, which would also raise the scoop neckline to where I would feel more comfortable. I chose to cut the neckline band at 26" for a 30" neckline.

The neck  band's three layers were difficult for my machine, I had to use the manual control to slowly topstitch the neckline but it did result in an almost perfect neckband. I then steamed the band to shrink it in tighter for a more secure fit.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would now since I have altered the pattern. I would love to try out the v-neck option with short sleeves next. For me it was not the easy TNT pattern that others swear it to be but it was fairly simple to alter. So I would recommend trying it as it may work out easier for someone else.

I believe that the back shoulders are too wide because of those irritating diagonal wrinkles. I also believe the armscye is too high because the upper arms seem to be twisting under the arm towards the front. Also, as seen in the picture below, the back waist is too long and a more extensive sway back reduction is needed.
 

Conclusion: I like the dress, but its not perfect. I already had to make a lot of changes to make it to this point but there will have to be more in its future if I ever want it to be a TNT pattern.I would love to be able to whip up a knit dress whenever I wanted but the time is not now or at least not with this pattern. Sigh...