The White Stripes Are Coming! - Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee

Pattern: Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee (2013, the original one-size-fits-all version)

Pattern Description: Oversized boxy top with shallow boat neckline with dropped shoulders and three-quarter-length fitted sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: One size fits all, finished length: 23.5" finished width: 58." The pattern is now available in four sizes here. 

Fabric Used: Black/Gray/Ivory stripe cotton jersey blend knit from Girl Charlee Fabrics, Wright's (vintage) non-stop rayon seam binding in Navy 55, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Black #010 and Silver #100.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: For this version, I cut the armscye of the sleeve 1/2" wider than the pattern tapering out to nothing at the wrist. I also added six inches to the sleeve length. Trying to gain more ease, I used a 1/4" seam allowance at seams except at the shoulders where I used 1/2".

Conclusion: I need to make more of these and I also need to enlarge the sleeves even more!

Twist Yet Again Top - Irmchen (Burdastyle)

Pattern: "Let's Twist Again..." pattern by Irmchen, available at Burdastyle, FREE!

Pattern Description: Loose, asymmetrical top with twisted side draping and over-long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: German size 42, according to directions.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? YES!

Were the instructions easy to follow? So easy, they weren't even provided!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It has a simple shape, yet when made up it is unusual and was an extremely easy and fast sew.This will be my second time making this pattern.


Fabric Used: 2 yards of 60" Shitake Brown/Heather Gray half-inch striped jersey knit (50% cotton, 25% poly, 25% rayon) from Girl Charlee, which was on sale for $1.50 a yard!

Ignore my belly in this picture, please.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: As before, I added length to the sleeves when I cut it out while also adding a bit of width because the original top's sleeves were a bit tight at the wrists. I cut both the pattern and fabric out a little larger than the pattern piece and chose to sew a 1/2" seam allowances.

I sewed a small narrow zig-zag while slightly stretching the fabric. I then went over that stitching a second time for strength. The sleeve hems were folded over 1/4" twice and slip stitched. I did the same for the neckline and for this version, I chose to attach the optional hem band included with the pattern.

Multiple pins guarantee matched stripes.

The other side: ta da!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! This item is so quick to make, the only thing that took time was the hand stitching. I may not add the hem band to any others because I think it brings attention to my expanding waistline more than I'd like. However, the best thing is that the pattern is still free after all this time.

Conclusion: I now have another version of this top that will go with some other items in my wardrobe. I love how it is a t-shirt to just grab and put on and an interesting top. The first one I made was from a knit that had some Lycra content while this one is a basic cotton knit. If I make this again, I will probably choose another beefy stretch knit as this feels a bit flimsy for this style. But I still like this version and how could I not, the price of this top (not including tape and printer paper costs), was under $4.00!

Fit For The Holiday - Burdastyle Anda #7969

 
Pattern: Burdastyle Anda #7969 (2009)*

Pattern Description: Pullover dress with bias neck/sleeve binding and optional encased elastic waist treatment.

Pattern Sizing: (38-50) When I made the dress before I had reduced the pattern down to approximately a size 36. This time, I enlarged the pattern closer to a 40-42.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, though I did not include the elastic waist.


Were the instructions easy to follow? It was extremely easy, even with  binding both the neckline and sleeves. I made it more difficult for myself by then hand sewing the entire skirt hem.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? After gaining some unwanted weight and sizing out of some of my casual outfits, this forgiving shape was very desirable. Years ago, I made a wearable muslin version so I knew I liked the shape.

Fabric Used: Brown and Grey Etch Floral Peached 100% polyester from Hancock Fabrics ($6.99 per yard, orig. $9.99) and Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Smoke, #116.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Because I didn't do my due diligence I started this dress off all wrong. Despite choosing this dress because of my stressful clothing size issue I didn't think to perhaps reprint the pattern that I last used in what...2009? or even read what I wrote about it at the time. So yes, of course the pattern piece (I couldn't find the back so used the front piece twice) looked small and I decided to add some width to the pattern. See my additions above.

I decided to increase the width a tiny bit at the shoulder and tapered out more for a fuller skirt to enhance the swing of the slight a-line skirt. Of course, this also increased the hem length that I had to hand sew!

However, for some reason, the neckline was too small (see below) and I had to increase it in order for it to go over my head. Now this is the same paper pattern I used before so is it possible for your head to get bigger when you gain weight?! 

Note: I could have saved myself the trouble if I had read this 2009 mention of this dress and realized what size I had cut this pattern down to then...a 36! I should have just printed it out again and cut a size 40 or 42. You'd think I didn't know why one keeps a sewing blog!

Well, after that was all revealed and the dress still fit, I moved onto the finishing. Burdastyle suggests binding both the neck and sleeve edges. I personally love how this looks, both on my first Anda and then on all of my Grainline Studio Scout variations. It is such a clean finish and allows me to hand sew and relax in front of the TV. The addition of a little steam and press allows the stitches to blend and lay flat.

Working the neckline.

The result.

I always hand stitch my hems if I have the time. This takes a much longer session but feels like such an accomplishment when done. I first run a basting stitch along the first fold. This allows me to fold up an even hem all around and to cinch in the circular hem when needed. Finally I use steam to shrink and coax the hem flat.

A successful hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will probably make a lot more of these, including some in knits and maybe even some with the original elasticized waist.
 

Conclusion: The first time I made this dress, it was a wearable muslin out of mystery fabric. In that review I said I would make it again in rayon challis. I did, but had no idea it would take me six years! No wonder the pattern didn't fit as cut!  Luckily, this dress was a success, it fit and it looked wonderful. Even though it was the simplest of dresses, I received many compliments both on Instagram and in person at the Christmas Eve party. Therefore, a great make with which to end this year!


*At that time, the pattern was free, Burdastyle now charges $2.99 (reduced from $3.50) for the pattern.

Stripes Galore - T-Shirts And Comfy Tops

So, I'm sewing again. No, I did not get a new job yet but I need something to do for fun around here. So why not start acquiring those striped t-shirts I've talked about always wanting.

First four are from Girl Charlee and the last two are from Mood Fabrics.

The Fabrics:

A while ago, I bought some striped ponte de roma from Mood Fabrics(!) for a pair of t-shirts. I think I might now use one, the jade and mustard stripe, for a t-shirt dress made from New Look 6838. Since I only have two yards, it will be short-sleeved for spring similar to the examples below from Banana Republic and Zara..

After buying that amazing ponte from Mood, I found out about a sale at Girl Charlee and I decided to give the company another try. I had a disappointment with an order a year ago with a semi-sheer knit that wasn't advertised as such. Not only was the white portion of the mustard and white stripe fabric see-through but the mustard was printed instead of being woven in the fabric. I returned it and exchanged it for a superior black and white Lycra knit that I did love and used here. So one good - one bad. However, I was still leery of the accuracy of their fabric descriptions on the blog and as it turned out, I was right to be.

The haul from Girl Charlee

With the fabrics averaging a price of $4, I decided to take the chance and ordered four cotton poly blend knits described as 7 oz. lightweight to mid-weight and one 10 oz. medium weight patterned ponte.

Well, even though the four knits felt soft and had drape, they were no way near mid-weight, in fact, the ones striped with white were see-through at the white parts and specifically, the red and white one read as red with extremely pale pink stripes. I prefer my white to be opaque.

10 oz. ponte print

In addition, their black and white ponte was thinner than any ponte that I've encountered and again the white portions of the print would require a lining if I made it as a skirt, which had been the goal.

I am first trying out the two grey-striped fabrics, they have already been washed. I feel they are not as scandalous as the white striped ones, which would definitely require a camisole if worn. Because of the low prices, I don't feel bad using the others purely for muslin since I have a lot of free knit top patterns I would like to try out. The ponte might be used for a boxy top instead of the Mod-inspired skirt I originally wanted.

The Patterns:

Grainline Hemlock (1.5 yards), Simplicity 6216 (1 yard), New Look 6838 (1.5 yards), Grainline Scout tee (1.75 yards), and Let's Twist Again... from Burdastyle (2 yards).

Images: Banana Republic, Zara, Grainline Studio, Simplicity, and McCall Pattern Company.

Cut 'n Paste PDF Pattern Inventory

When it comes to the printed and packaged patterns (like the Big 4) I have a good idea of what I own because of my pattern inventory on Flickr. However, my PDF patterns are all over the place; saved digitally on one desktop computer, some are on a portable disk drive (I think they have the same ones?) and others have already been printed out and been placed in plastic sleeves for storage and easy access.

However, what exactly are they? Where did I get them, how much did they cost, and how many are dresses, tops, lingerie, etc? I spent some time looking through my computers and compiled a list of all the downloaded patterns that I've accumulated. I am thoroughly shocked at how many there were especially since I already have more than one hundred "old-school" packaged patterns from the Big Four and a few independents. I really shouldn't NEED any more patterns, right? Hmmm...

Well, here they are below. I included links to the companies/designers just in case you want a bit of this good stuff too. I also have a Pinterest group devoted to free patterns and tutorials here. Yes, I am enabling your hoarding habits...and you are welcome.

PURCHASED PATTERNS

Grainline Studio
Scout Woven Tee 31002 *
Moss Mini Skirt 32001 *
Tiny Pocket Tee 31001 *
Maritime Shorts 35001
Hemlock Tee *

Paprika Patterns (free to me as a tester)
Jade Skirt *
Jasper dress/sweater

Burdastyle
Long Sleeve Top 02/2010 #112A *

Seamster Patterns
Yellowtail Camisole

Waffle Patterns
Marmalade Gathered Jacket

Baste + Gather
Birkin Flares (jeans)

FREE PATTERNS

Burdastyle
Anda Dress #7969 (free when I got it years ago) *
Marie Skirt #9177
The Draped Square by Irmchen
Let's Twist Again... by Irmchen *
Flared Skirt 10/2012 #121A
Folded Yoke Blouse 10/2012 #122
Hip Wrap 10/2012 #120
Trousers #129A/#129B
with code from US Burdastyle mag

Fine Motor Skills
Jimmy Shorts

Thread Theory
Arrowsmith Undershirt

By Hand London
Polly Top

Dixie DIY
Hot Cocoa Sweater

Maria Denmark
Kirsten Kimono Tee

Me & Sew
Loose Top

Peppermint Magazine
Winter Wool Cape by Sewanista Fashion Workshops

Hot Patterns
Crepe Suzette Circular Clutch *
Fringe Festival Scarf Knit Top
Cool, Calm, & Cowl -necked Top
All Wrapped-Up Tank

Shelby Kaava
#302 Vuokatti Tights

Vera Venus



Little Bias Dress (LBD) in UK size 10/12
Sundress Bodice - low and high neck versions

Clothhabit by Amy Chapman
Rosy Ladyshorts

Makebra
Hipster pattern

Indigorchid
T-shirt Underwear #705 (pattern no longer available but the making-of posts are highly valuable) *

Itch To Stitch
Lindy Petal Skirt

Schnittquelle (Average Source)
Vichy Dress, Mod 06-59 Sewing Instructions (no longer free)

Sew Different Patterns
Spring Tulip Skirt (no directions included)

Tamanegi-kobo
Dita Pencil Dress
Athena V-necked Tee
Columbo Belted Long Jacket
Ice Pop Seam Spiral Jeans (drafted for children)

Tessuti
Our Fave Top
Mandy Boat Tee*

Republic du Chiffon
Ludivine Dress (no longer available)

Sew Loft Patterns fka Spit Up & Stilettos
Company is no longer in business but their entire pattern archive is being hosted by Hoopes Park Studios on Dropbox for FREE!
Gabrielle Blazer
Emma Pant
Matilda Legging
Karina Skirt

*Already sewn or made

Essential Stripe Tee - Burdastyle 02/2010 #112A

Here is my last clothing make from 2013. To see my other makes from 2013, click here.

Pattern: Burdastyle 02/2010 #112A c. 2010

Pattern Description: Knit top with raglan sleeves and wide neckline.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 36-46 (US 10-20). I originally cut it out as size 44, which corresponded to a US size 18. I then basted and cut it down slowly until I liked the fit.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, after I made some alterations.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the slight curve of the wide neckline and the slight waist shaping.

 
Fabric Used: An 8.5 oz. medium-weight half-inch black and white stripe cotton spandex knit (CL-1260) from GirlCharlee.com ($5.50 per yard) and Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My first issue was matching the stripes at the raglan sleeve and at the side seams. Where the sleeve joins the body needs to result in chevrons and it would be noticeable if they did not match. I used this tutorial by Sewaholic to match the striped fabric. I also used my walking foot which I think helped extremely well.

Luckily, the pattern pieces have printed match lines for striped fabrics though you could add your own to any pattern. I would even suggest if your pattern paper is transparent that you trace a stripe all across the piece to make a more accurate match.

I aligned the match lines on the pattern with particular stripes on the fabric. I did the same with the second pattern piece, matching its match lines with corresponding stripes in the fabric. Though the fabric was folded for the bodice, I cut the piece out of the top layer only. Putting aside the paper piece, I used the cut fabric piece as a guide to cut the lower layer making sure the stripes were parallel. I then used the front piece as a guide to cut the back piece matching stripes starting from the bottom. The front and back pieces were basted together by hand and I attached one sleeve in order to check the fit. I wanted my top to fit the same way as Nicole’s. 

At this point, the top was too large so I laid the pattern over the pieces and found that the fabric had stretched and grown. I cut down both the pattern pieces and fabric to a smaller size above the waist and a larger one below for the hips. Once I finished the alterations, I pinned and basted, by hand again, making sure that all stripes were aligned at the seams. Using a narrow zigzag stitch, I sewed the top together on my machine.

As a last step, I fused interfacing to the hems and neckline for durability. I used knit interfacing as a substitute for the Vilene bias tape suggested in the instructions. I then attached the neck binding differently, as single-fold binding, because the double-fold method they called for would have been far too bulky. I folded the hems over 1/4" and then 1/2", stitching them to the inside by hand.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, no wonder it is a popular top on patternreview.com. Depending on the knit, I will probably cut the shoulders of the next one in a size 40 (US 14) with the waist and hips staying a 42.

Conclusion: Another great knit t-shirt and perhaps another TNT pattern. My goal is a whole wardrobe of knit tops of all styles.

Images: my own, Burdastyle.com 

My Handmade Wardrobe Inventory

Looking at my closet I wondered just how many of the clothes in my closet were made by me. A quick inventory is below, to see these items and read their reviews and construction details, go look at My Handmade Wardrobe.

Knit Tops:

• Mustard Burdastyle "Let's Twist Again..." top
• Pink polka dot Butterick 5429 twist top
• Autumnal floral Butterick 5429 twist top
• Black New Look 6838 short-sleeve boatneck
• Red, black & white New Look 6838 long-sleeve boatneck
• Magenta New Look 6807 gathered-sleeve top

Woven Tops:

• Grainline Scouts
  Brown print
  Red twill w/ full back
  Cornflower blue floral w/ gathered 3/4 sleeve
• Gray Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank
• Yellow gingham Colette Sorbetto
• Multicolor dots Sorbetto
• Swiss Dot Vogue 9772 bias top
• Cream Vogue 2068 gauze top
• Blue Simplicity BBW 3835 top
• Cream Simplicity 3835/Vogue 8392 gathered long-sleeve top
• Autumnal floral  Simplicity 3835/Vogue 8392 gathered long-sleeve top
• Cream Butterick 4632 gathered yoke shell
• Red Butterick 2564 cut-on sleeve shell

Interesting note: I like my clothing easy to sew and easy to wear. None have zippers, only two have buttons but only on the backs and all can be pulled on over my head, if needed. So, I probably should make at least two shirts with buttons or snaps for a more formal look. Maybe. If it ain't broke...

Skirts:

• Built By Wendy Sew U skirts
  Black corduroy
  Brown corduroy
  Gray wool
• Blue denim Simplicity 8126 wrap skirt
• Red twill Simplicity 5914* skirt
• Heather gray Pattern Runway gathered skirt
• Black floral Simplicity 9765 long skirt
• Iridescent purple Vogue 7058 ball skirt
• Purple Simplicity 2152 linen A-line skirt
• Teal abstract floral Paprika Patterns Jade skirt

Dresses:

• Pink polka dot SewStylish One-Hour Dress
• Heather tan Simplicity 2406 belted cotton dress
• Purple Butterick 4948 corduroy dress
• Orange plaid McCall's 6712 "maternity" dress w/ shoulder ties
• Green New Look 6939 shift
• Floral New Look 6939 shift dress
• Beige Burdastyle "Anda" shift
• Red floral New Look 6860 sun dress
• Autumn floral Simplicity 5190 faux-wrap dress
• Floral McCall's 5042 full-skirted dress
• Red Colette Oolong #1008 dress
• Black Vogue 9968 knit cowl dress

Note: Only one zipper in the bunch(!!), all others can be pulled over the head.

Special Occasion**:

• Blue Simplicity 8343 brocade full-length gown.
• Bronze Style 2448 velour 1920-ish gown.
• Blue/yellow shot cotton McCall's 9403 strapless dress.

Pants:

• Brown gabardine Vogue 9745 flat-front trousers
• Heather tan Vogue 2883 shorts
• Purple and green Vogue 2532 plaid shorts

Only one pair of pants but have fabric and supplies for four others. Must get on that for fall.

Jacket/Coat:

• Purple knit Simplicity 2560 cardigan
• Brown Vogue 1476 (Issey Miyake) coat

Misc:

• Peacock blue half slip
• Green/B&W stripe Indigorchid #705 panty
• Kwik Sew 2529 sleepwear
  Blue-gray fleece short-sleeve tank and boxer briefs
  Light/dark blue fleece color-block tank and boxer briefs
  Multi-color fleece night shirt

*Recently reissued as Simplicity 1560 with same photo & illustrations.
**First two no longer fit and the third is impractical for my life now.

4. Twisted Drape Top - Irmchen (Burdastyle)

Pattern: Burdastyle "Let's Twist Again..." pattern by Irmchen

Pattern Description: Loose, asymmetrical top with twisted side draping and over-long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: German size 42, according to directions

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? YES!

Were the instructions easy to follow? So easy there weren't any provided!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It has a simple shape, yet when made up it is unusual and was an extremely easy and fast sew. I like that in clothes. The pattern fit perfectly on 2 yards of fabric and this resulted in two fairly large pieces leftt from the area under the arms. I will try to make a few tank tops with those.

Fabric Used: 2 yards of "Antique Brass" jersey knit from Fabric Mart, on sale for $1.99 a yard! (feels fabulous too), matching Gutermann 100% polyester thread in #870, Goldston, also on sale at a Jo-Ann liquidation sale for 57 cents.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The only change I made was to lengthen the sleeves as much as I could when I cut it out. This caused a bit of a problem when the sleeves became too tight towards the wrists and I had to change the seam allowances from 5/8" to 1/4". I will adjust the pattern to increase the sleeve width, as it is now, there is constriction of movement and twisted seams (as seen in 1st and 3rd pictures below). The pictures were taken before I fully decreased the seam allowance.




I don't own a serger, so I use an old fashioned way to sew knits, I sew a small narrow zig-zag while trying not to stretch the fabric. I then went over that stitching a second time for stability. The sleeve and bottom hems were folded over 1/4" twice and slip stitched. I fused strips of knit interfacing to the neckline to add some stability, then folded it over twice and slip stitched. From experience, I believe this is the best way to avoid having puckered or wavy hems.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! This item is so quick to make, the only thing that took time was my hand stitching of the hems. I like this style so much, I will probably also try Burdastyle's Twister dress by apfelbulete, which has a similar pattern design.


Julie Park unbalanced boat sweaters

Conclusion: I now have a top that resembles my inspiration pics. The pattern is ripe for alterations involving the degree of the twist and the amount of loose fabric. Best of all, the price of this top (not including tape and printer paper costs), was under $5.00!

Images: my own photos, JPark Clothing (2)