Two Tried and True Twist Tops - Butterick 5429

  

Pattern: Butterick 5429 (2009) OOP

Pattern Description: Long and short sleeve tops with front neckline twist, dropped shoulders, and a stitched hem.

Pattern Sizing: Size BB (8-10-12-14) I originally cut and made this pattern years ago in a size 8, despite being larger than the pattern recommended, because of the ease. Years later, it still fits despite growing from a B-cup to a D-cup! 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the twist detail at the center front, making this a simple to with interest. 

Fabric Used: #1) Ponteroma knit in Winter White from deep stash, originally from Hancock Fabrics, 

#2) Pink Watercolor floral jersey knit (95% polyester, 5% Spandex), Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP All Purpose 100% polyester thread in #3530 Lilac

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Having made this before, I'm using an altered size 8 pattern. However, my last version still fits.  

White: This version is in a stable ponte, so I added 1/4" to each width-wise seam when I cut it out and stitched the seams at 1/2" instead of the pattern's prescribed 5/8" seam allowance.

Pink: This top is in cotton jersey, so I cut the top 1" larger in width, and added 1/2" to the length. The additional width was unnecessary.

This is a tried-and-true pattern only because it had already been adjusted. From the original, I had to remove some extra fabric hanging beneath the twist by scooping out the front seam, curving in from the bottom of the open twist to one inch at the middle, and and then blending out to the hem and the original seam.

As always, I found it much easier to handstitch the twisted loop edges since they would show when wearing, Otherwise, you might stretch out this section trying to stitch with the machine. I also handstitched the neckline and arm holes for neatness.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, and yes, I would recommend it if you can find a copy secondhand. 

Placed over an older version

Conclusion: An easy but interesting top that can be had if you are willing to do a little work. I would have made one more this time, but the repetitive hand sewing dampened my motivation. It's a very flattering top. In jersey, it drapes well, emphasizing an hourglass shape by following the body's curves 

The Power of Hope and Delusion - My Pattern Stash

Despite a belief that I've been good pattern-wise for the last few years (After the 100+ pattern purge of 2019*), I looked around and found I had accumulated a lot more than I thought.

Here's a tally of patterns I bought in the last six months at the same time that I had little to no motivation to finish my existing projects:

Vogue 1663 by Kathryn Brenne - This pattern is for the hopefully perfect knit bootcut pant. I've been wearing two pairs of Ponte pants I bought from NY & Co that match the pattern illustration. I originally thought I would frankenpattern this myself, but who was I kidding? The cut pieces are currently sitting on my ironing board waiting their turn.

Butterick 6858 - I bought this on sale (of course!) under the delusion that the pockets in the skirt and pants were functional. They are not. I should have taken the pattern back but I got lazy. Again, I thought I would draft the pocket pieces I  needed but I'm not that excited to make my own walking/workout pants. Now I have this pattern, does anybody want it?

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Vogue 9361 - This pattern will hopefully fill my non-elastic waistband wide-leg pant needs and become a favorite.

Simplicity 9471 - A cute jeans-styled pant with great topstitching potential.

Butterick 6249 -  This is a great possibility for swishy mid-length skirts w/o an elastic waistband, my go-to lately. This has been on my wish list for years but a $1.99 sale caught me at the right moment.

Simplicity 8747 - This is a vintage skirt shape I've wanted for years. I finally bought it with a certain Halloween costume (and stashed fabric) in mind.

Seamwork Clarke Top - I've always wanted the True Bias Ogden Cami, I loved the flowing shape and the slightly curved v-neck but knew the narrow straps were not-bra-friendly. The Clarke has a similar vibe but corrects that issue.

Vogue 9299 - This pattern is one I kept talking myself out of buying (to recreate View B) until that same Halloween costume idea required a blouse just like View C.

True Bias Salida Skirt - This is another potential mid-length skirt for more structured wovens and with more jeans details. I already have stashed fabric ready for View A, the shorter slim skirt.

Simplicity 2406 (OOP) by Cynthia Rowley - My goal is to recreate this favorite dress (View C) that lives now as a top because the hips only fit me for a short time. I tracked down the pattern in a larger size and Joanns still sells the same fabric eleven years later!

Cashmerette Concord T-Shirt - I'm so excited about this pattern! After years of altering every t-shirt pattern to fit my new-to-me larger cup sizes, I decided to get some help from a professional. I can't wait to try this out! It is next in my queue. My dream is to have a wardrobe of sleek long-sleeved tops to coordinate with the bootcut pants from Vogue 1633 and trousers from Vogue 9361.

Cashmerette Rivermont Dress and Top - Yes, I bought even more professional help! My hope is this can become a knit sloper I can adapt to different styles. I have a Big 4 straight-sized sloper pattern (McCall's 7279) for wovens but this could simplify the process, boobs-wise. I will start with making a top from stash fabric as my muslin.

Do you ever feel that your stash of patterns and fabric grows because a part of your desire for a project is appeased or satisfied once you have them in your possession? Why else wouldn't we finish them all? 

Watch this space for actual sewn projects. I swear they're coming!

*Yes, they did leave my sewing room and my house but they are still in the trunk of my car! I want them to end up with interested sewists so I keep resisting dropping them off at Goodwill.

Please, Help Me Make Up My Mind!

Last year, I fell in love the this fabric from Jo-Ann Fabrics, their amazing leaf-a-palooza print stretch crepe. I had to have it. Ever since then, I've been stumped as to what to make with it, though.

I know I want something that takes advantage of its drape, something with a fuller skirt, and some swishy movement. Perhaps, some ruffles and gathers?

However, I don't want so much fabric that the details can't be seen, or my shape becomes lost in the pattern.

Here are a few of my thoughts. As time went on, the choices kept multiplying. I need your help!

This dress was my first thought:

Simplicity 8888

The lack of waist definition worried me. After seeing a few of these made up I think it would have a strong muumuu vibe. The original inspiration (seen below) by Jasper Conran looks great despite not having any waistline.

Jasper Conran S/S 2017

So no go for this pattern, at least in this fabric. I still think it would work in a solid or a more subtle pattern, and I will probably make it one day.

Then there are these:

I already own the top two patterns, with B6677, being the frontrunner. I adored view A in the illustration from the get-go, but was not excited about the full-length version in the photo. I think I would need to alter the neckline into a deeper rounded v-shape because the print might be overwhelming.

Butterick 6677

I honestly bought McCall's 7381 because of the photograph, the illustrations didn't appeal to me at all. However, with this print fabric, I think the bulk of the waist ties and the sleeves ending right at breast height might not be the best for my figure. So, it might be better in the full-length, sleeveless version.

McCall's 7381

Most recently, I noticed Butterick 6705. I think it has a good design balance. Though again, it is rocking an empire waist instead of one at my waist.

Butterick 6705

Simplicity 9041 has a more appealing neckline, where it doesn't crowd the neck and is more open. I think I'd really like it in the short version with perhaps a ruffled band around the armscye, much like in B6677.

Simplicity 9041

This last option is a Cynthia Rowley-designed OOP from 2011. I always thought view B would make a great summer wedding dress in a silk crepe or crepe de chine. You know the type of boho dress topped with a crown of wildflowers in the hair? Again, I would want to amend the design by adding a ruffled tier to the bottom and eliminating the droopy hanging necktie.

Simplicity 1939

What do you think I should make? I realize the problem isn't really with the patterns but my inability to imagine the final silhouette on my body and my fear of disappointment after putting all that work in.

At this moment, I definitely think I will use the tiered skirt of B6677, view C. The mystery is what will the bodice look like because I think I want something less blousy and more sleek than the options above? So, maybe some frankenpattern work is ahead?

Scuba Staple Skirt - Butterick 6464

(This was actually made in 2018.)

Pattern: Butterick 6464 (2017)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, pull-on skirt with side panels and thin elastic channel inside a wide waistband.

Pattern Sizing: Size E5 (14-16-18-20-22), I cut a size 18 and adjusted on my body accordingly.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it?  Sorta, the actual skirt's waistband appeared more gathered than in the drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely easy. Great pattern for a beginner and it has more style than a basic pencil skirt.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Having made this before I knew that the fit would be excellent.

Fabric Used: Black/light gray double faced neoprene (polyester/Lycra) from Mood (a gift from Allie J. as part of a giveaway*), Stretchrite 1/2" polyester braided elastic, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in #592 Black, Dritz size #16 (100) ball point machine needle (for heavyweight knits)

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The design ease for this skirt of 43.5" for a 42" hip is too much positive ease for a knit skirt. I decided to cut my skirt halfway between size 16 and 18.

I love the way the waistband is constructed. It consists of a wide waistband/yoke with the elastic channel hidden inside so it's not evident from the outside. The yoke sections are stitched together on the sides first, then a casing is formed at the top edge where the elastic is inserted, and once secured the entire yoke is turned inside out; essentially hiding the elastic.

The only difficulties in construction were due to the fabric choice. Cutting it out was easy with a rotary cutter but the heft of the fabric required me to trace the cut-on-the-fold pattern piece for the center front and back as complete pieces so that I could cut them out flat.

Because this was my first time using scuba I began by testing out different sewing and pressing techniques on scraps. This resulted in me choosing to use a ball point needle made for heavyweight knits and my walking foot. Stitching over multiple layers of this fabric was still difficult and I admit I had to reinforce some areas when I noticed some skipped stitches.

All of the seams were pressed first, on the wrong side and then the right with a "pressing cloth" (scrap of random lightweight fabric) which I then weighed down with whatever I had on hand until it was cool. (I just keep putting off buying a wood clapper because this still works!) This was very important for the top of the waistband, which really didn't want to behave. Even though it would have elastic inside and be gathered, I still wanted to avoid as much bulk in that area as possible. This pressing-and-resting method took over an hour to treat all of the seams and to tame the waistband.

The rest of the skirt was incredibly simple, consisting of center and side panels on both the front and back. I top stitched the panel seams and the waistband to add dimension to the scuba.

I have no idea how a folded hem will affect the look of the skirt so I'm wearing it without a hem right now. This works because scuba does not ravel.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, This is a definite TNT pattern and I will definitely make more of these. I highly recommend this skirt pattern.

Conclusion: This was a successful make, a slim skirt with an ingenious waistband treatment and visual interest provided by the topstitched side panels.

* She actually questions in the comments here what to do with the leftover yard from her own skirt project...well, she sent it to me!

The Doppleganger Shell - Butterick 6424

Pattern: Butterick 6424 (2016)

Pattern Description: Close-fitting top with an all-in-one facing.

Pattern Sizing: Size E5 (14-16-18-20-22) I cut a 14 at top moving out to an 18 at waist and hips.

Did it look like you photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but it took some extra work to get there.

Were the instructions easy to follow Yes, though I might make changes in the construction order if I make it again. Attaching the shoulder bands without being able to test the strap length is problematic.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This top was a shape and construction I had not seen before. This was the only item in this multi-garment pattern that I needed or wanted.

Fabric Used: Ponteroma knit in Winter White for $3 (orig. $15) from the Hancock Fabrics liquidation sale.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Trying it on as I went along I found I had to shorten the back straps by 1/4", cutting the pattern piece down two sizes. I also had to bring the placement of each strap in towards the centers a total of 1/4" to get them to stay on my shoulders.

This in turn meant the gradual curve from the strap to the armscye was no longer there and I had to change the angle when sewing the self-facing together.

Unfortunately, when sewing the armscye together I think I may have stretched the fabric out. The entire underarm area sticks out from the body, gaping, and showing far more skin than it should. A makeshift awkward dart had to be made for correction (not yet done at time of photos).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? When I saw this pattern I assumed I would make it in multiples. However, the construction and fit was enough to make me think twice about attempting it again. Some of the issues were with the pattern and a lot were because of how it fit my particular body; however, I still would recommend it. I will try it again but make the following changes: narrow the shoulder straps and when cutting the front and back on fold I'll move the pieces in 1/8-1/4" to narrow the bodice width.

A post shared by All The Pretty Birds (@tamumcpherson) on Jul 13, 2017 at 6:29am PDT

Conclusion: After choosing this pattern, I found two photos online showing extremely similar tops, one on comedian Nasim Pedrad and another on fashion blogger Tamu McPherson. These solidified my desire to have this in my wardrobe. However, I now see that these tops were made from stretch fabrics unlike the stable knit I used so they resulted in a fit I could not achieve. But, next time...

Summer Breeze Top - Butterick 6464

Pattern: Butterick 6464 (2017)

Pattern Description: Fitted, pullover halter top has back button loop closure and neckband.

Pattern Sizing: E5 (14-16-18-20-22) I cut a size 14 at the neck but a 16 for everything else.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, though there were a few fiddly bits when it came to the halter facing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I had an inspiration pic showing a top like this with a full gathered skirt (see below) and this pattern allowed me to replicate it as a great top for a humid summer.

Fabric Used: 52" Spectrum Lines India Silk (100% polyester) from Jo-Ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% natural cotton thread in Dark Turquoise #7540, Pellon EK130 Easy-Knit fusible tricot interfacing.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Though I had read the reviews showing many tops had been lengthened 2-3", I completely forgot that when I cut mine. I also originally cut a 16 but looking back at Liesl's version I choose to trust the finished garment measurements and recut the neckline areas in a size 14.

This fabric was great for constructing the tiny hems that made up the front and back openings and making the binding needed for the arms.

I had some difficulty dealing with the circular neck band and fitting the neckline edges of the top into it while also evenly gathering the two front portions. It took a lot of pins, patience, and basting! I do NOT suggest trying that part late at night.

Lots and lots of pins...

Then there was a round of hand stitching to secure the other side of the neckband. The instructions have you sew a line of edge stitching which I decided against. I did debate about making a buttonhole as designed or using snaps instead. After a few practice ones on some scraps I went with a buttonhole and it was the first I've made in two or three years. Check out that glowing button, it was one of many great choices in my button stash jar.

The only thing left was to hem the top. If I make this again I will make it longer so it can be tucked it into waistbands. Also, this next photo reveals that an additional two inches will need to be added just to the front.

Obviously, the first time using a camera remote!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would. Perhaps I'll make another in a solid fabric and maybe redesign the neckline into a simpler casing with a narrow tie instead.

The inspiration.

Pictured with a new skirt.

Conclusion: This top turned out exactly as I wanted. It was a cool design for summer and because of the fabric choice, it worked with most of my wardrobe. In fact, I made a purple skirt specifically to coordinate. I am extremely happy with this pattern.