Please, Help Me Make Up My Mind!

Last year, I fell in love the this fabric from Jo-Ann Fabrics, their amazing leaf-a-palooza print stretch crepe. I had to have it. Ever since then, I've been stumped as to what to make with it, though.

I know I want something that takes advantage of its drape, something with a fuller skirt, and some swishy movement. Perhaps, some ruffles and gathers?

However, I don't want so much fabric that the details can't be seen, or my shape becomes lost in the pattern.

Here are a few of my thoughts. As time went on, the choices kept multiplying. I need your help!

This dress was my first thought:

Simplicity 8888

The lack of waist definition worried me. After seeing a few of these made up I think it would have a strong muumuu vibe. The original inspiration (seen below) by Jasper Conran looks great despite not having any waistline.

Jasper Conran S/S 2017

So no go for this pattern, at least in this fabric. I still think it would work in a solid or a more subtle pattern, and I will probably make it one day.

Then there are these:

I already own the top two patterns, with B6677, being the frontrunner. I adored view A in the illustration from the get-go, but was not excited about the full-length version in the photo. I think I would need to alter the neckline into a deeper rounded v-shape because the print might be overwhelming.

Butterick 6677

I honestly bought McCall's 7381 because of the photograph, the illustrations didn't appeal to me at all. However, with this print fabric, I think the bulk of the waist ties and the sleeves ending right at breast height might not be the best for my figure. So, it might be better in the full-length, sleeveless version.

McCall's 7381

Most recently, I noticed Butterick 6705. I think it has a good design balance. Though again, it is rocking an empire waist instead of one at my waist.

Butterick 6705

Simplicity 9041 has a more appealing neckline, where it doesn't crowd the neck and is more open. I think I'd really like it in the short version with perhaps a ruffled band around the armscye, much like in B6677.

Simplicity 9041

This last option is a Cynthia Rowley-designed OOP from 2011. I always thought view B would make a great summer wedding dress in a silk crepe or crepe de chine. You know the type of boho dress topped with a crown of wildflowers in the hair? Again, I would want to amend the design by adding a ruffled tier to the bottom and eliminating the droopy hanging necktie.

Simplicity 1939

What do you think I should make? I realize the problem isn't really with the patterns but my inability to imagine the final silhouette on my body and my fear of disappointment after putting all that work in.

At this moment, I definitely think I will use the tiered skirt of B6677, view C. The mystery is what will the bodice look like because I think I want something less blousy and more sleek than the options above? So, maybe some frankenpattern work is ahead?

In the Details: Put Your Collar to Work

You say you want to accessorize more, but don't know how? You want to start wearing scarves but don't know what to do with them? Well, these clever vintage patterns made it so easy. The options were already built in. I find so much inspiration in vintage patterns. Perhaps you could apply some of these details or ideas to your current makes?

Simplicity 8462

This one includes a buttoned loop to secure the scarf and eliminates the worry about losing it in the wind. What it would look like empty though, I do not know. Also, doesn't blond flip girl look like she's wearing a wig?


Patt-o-Rama 1398

The purpose of this collar is even more obvious by incorporating an asymmetrical strap to secure a contrasting scarf. Because of the top-stitching detail this one could even work without the scarf. If you look real close you can see that Dacron polyester was a suggested fabric. Um, no.

McCall's 6521

This is an elegant suit and I love how the coordinating scarf is self-wrangled by possessing a buttonhole meant to accommodate the button on the jacket. There would be no need for constant adjustments.

Vogue 5486

I would LOVE a reissue of this one, that draped and twisted collar is so unique. The option of color-blocking adds an additional unexpected design detail. The wide scooped neckline of view C also offers a looser interpretation of the ubiquitous bow-tied blouse.

Simplicity 5679

Here is a neck-tie influenced detail that adds functionality to the design by making a tie catcher part of the dress.

Pictorial Review 8983

This last one is amazing! I love the versatility of the attached scarf drape. Both dresses are the same design, the only differences are in the color of the scarves and where they were positioned; one arranged as a front detail and the other as a dramatic cape-like detail. Fancy!

Hmmm, Which One To Buy?

  McCall's 7551

  McCall's 8164

I could also buy both and graft the perfect bib of 8164 to the adapted wider legs of 7551. But I don't even know when I would get to making these. Is it worth having another project breathing down my neck?

I am also the strongest advocate of practical dressing, so really, two pairs of overalls, aka Satan's playsuit? What is happening to me?

Update: As it turned out, while searching Etsy I found a copy of McCall's 7551 and put in my shopping cart while I was debating if I was even going to publish this post. Weeks later, it was still there and numerous searches on Etsy and eBay found no other copies of it available so I chose to see it as a sign and received it two days ago.

I don't know when it will happen but I no longer have an excuse not to make these. In fact, my copy is also a larger size, so I have no excuse ever.

Images: FantasyLinen.com, ASOS.com

Look Ma, I'm In Vogue Magazine!

The Vogue Patterns catalog, that is!

See this pattern here?

Vogue 9106

Look a little closer...
 

 

That's my line credit for having lent McCall Patterns my copy of vintage Vogue S-4305 now reissued as Vogue 9106. They thanked me with this mention and five patterns of my choosing. See this earlier post for details.

The reissued pattern was released with the recent Spring patterns. I am so excited as it's now possible for me to make this dress for myself as my copy was not in my current size. I have been in love with the pattern illustration for years now. However, seeing the versions made up, the magic is a bit diluted, the prints chosen hide the most important details; the sections of gathers under the bust and on the skirts sides. I'm also confused about the type of net crinoline they used with the dresses. I feel they went too stiff or too big when I always imagined the skirt falling a bit more organically.

I also noticed that on the models, the gathers were not properly below the bosom but directly on them and the waist was a bit high. I'll have to check and perhaps add length in the torso for my version.

Invisible above, right?

Now about those five free patterns. You will not believe how stressful it was making those choices. There were only two givens and then there were about 6-7 others jockeying for the other three spots. I ended up with two dress patterns in shapes I don't already have (Vogue 8665) or could not have drafted on my own (Vogue 1234 from Sandra Betzina.)

  

Then I chose two made-for-knits top patterns (loving me some knits right now!), one with interesting raw edge seam finishes, Vogue 8925...

 

and another that is a substitution for one that I really wanted that had the same type of seam finishes. Strangely, the current Vogue 8952 is almost identical to an earlier Vogue release from alice + olivia, Vogue 1261. The designer pattern went out of print before I could buy it. During this selection process, I happened to notice that the tops were the same shapes and styles (the cowl neck, both raglan and dolman sleeves), the only difference being the absence of raw edged seams on the designer versions. However, I plan to apply the similar finishes from Vogue 8925 to the non-designer pattern versions.

My last selection was another given, Vogue 1411, the unique Sandra Betzina knit pants pattern that I want to make immediately in multiple colors. Check out that crazy seaming!

Vogue 1411

So, now, all I have to do is wait patiently. It's already been six months so what's a few more weeks?

Just another reminder, if you have any amazing vintage Vogue, Butterick or McCall's pattern (especially from when they were just called McCall) please consider lending them so that reproductions can be made. All you have to do is email images of those patterns to the McCall Pattern Company in care of leslies@mccallpattern.com If your pattern is selected, they will then contact you about sending the paper pattern to their offices. I thank you in advance!

Jade Skirt From Paprika Patterns Is Ready!

I just heard from Lisa at Paprika Patterns and their fabulous Jade skirt pattern is ready for download! Not only is the pattern cool and funky, Paprika is offering you a great deal on pricing which I'll let them explain to you.

From the Paprika Patterns blog:

At the beginning when I promised to make a pattern out of the folded mini, I said it would be available for free. Because I like to keep my word, it is indeed possible to get it for free! But, since we have become a company and there have gone so so many hours in creating this pattern, we didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to put a price on it, either. Paprika Patterns is my sole employment, and all proceedings will go directly into creating new patterns! So if you’d like to see more of what we can do, then feel free to set your own price. If you can’t afford any price, then consider maybe a tweet, blog review or other mention in any place. Spreading the word would also help us to build our company. 

As I was a tester for the pattern, I received my copy for free. However, because I love my finished skirt so much, I want others to know about it too. Here is my original post of the Jade in the tested version. Please note that I have not checked to see what all has been changed in the final version yet.

However, one thing that has changed is that when I made mine it was in the largest size they had available, a 6, which is equivalent to a RTW size 10. Since then, Paprika has been working on expanding their pattern sizes. While the Jade is available now on the site in sizes 1-6, soon sizes 7 through 10 will be added, and eventually Paprika's future pattern offerings will all be available in the full range of 1 through 10. Isn't that great?

To help you make up the skirt, the site has separate posts on how to choose the right size, fabric recommendations, how to install the exposed zipper, and most importantly, how to fold the origami-like skirt.

So, go and check out the new Jade skirt and get started folding!

Seeking the Sublime Shift

Michelle Dockery in silk Miu Miu at the Venice Film Festival 2013.

These are the desired features for my ideal shift dress pattern:

• boat-neck or shallow scoop

• one piece, subtle flare

• button closure, if any, eliminating the need for a zip

• center back seam for shaping

• full, ¾, or half length sleeves with some kind of wrist treatment, placket or gathering

• long for possible belting or just above knee

New Look 6145 is the pattern I will use and possibly adapt to create my dress. Patternreview.com shows great reviews.

Here is the fabric for the very first one, a silky (but maybe too shiny) polyester gained from that wonderful DC, VA, MD swap. I'm not sure if it has enough body for what I have in mind. But luckily, no pattern matching can possibly be expected, right?

Here are a few examples I admire:

Clockwise from top left: Lobelia, Christine Phung, and J. Crew

So, are there any design options I should take advantage of like gathers at the yoke similar to the Miu Miu, gathered bishop sleeves (see both below), or the straight 3/4 sleeves of the pattern? Should I make it easy on myself* or shake it up a little?

Eileen Fisher shift dress with neckline, shoulder, and cuff details.

*Why start now, you ask?!

Deciphering the Big 4 Ease Charts

As a sewing blogger I am very aware of the problems involved in fitting garments made from Big 4 pattern company patterns: Simplicity/New Look, Vogue, McCall's, and Butterick.* It's well known among us sewists (see recent posts from Shams and Robin) that if you go by your actual body measurements you will most likely end up with an oversized garment. This is because these pattern makers are notorious for ridiculous amounts of ease in their patterns.

A typical sewing pattern includes both wearing and design ease. Wearing ease is minimal and exists so that one can actually sit, stretch, and move in a garment. Design ease is what makes the difference between a dress skimming the body's curves or billowing around them. Design ease is calculated by the designer/maker of the pattern to give the finished garment a specific look. However, it seems the Big 4 likes to overcompensate on the wearing ease issue. I can only guess it's to allow for more women to fit into each size? Why that is, don't ask me.

  

Therefore, to fix the problem many sewists automatically cut a smaller size than the pattern measurements recommend. Unfortunately, that still might not guarantee a good fit. It might be better to note how each company describes the final fit of the individual garment in their pattern descriptions. These following terms correspond with their published ease charts. The charts, available in the back of Vogue Pattern magazine and on their website work for all three brands of the McCall Pattern Company; Vogue, McCall's and Butterick. They give you an idea of what to anticipate when it comes to fitting their garments. Check out the details for Butterick patterns below.

Blouses/Shirts, Dresses
Close fitting = 0-3"
Fitted = 3-4"
Semi-fitted = 4-5"
Loose fitting = 5-8"
Very loose fitting = 8" and more of ridiculous ease!

Pants, Skirts
Close fitting = 0-2"
Fitted = 2-3"
Semi-fitted = 3-4"
Loose fitting = 4-6"
Very loose fitting = 6" and more

Therefore, if you choose a Loose Fitting pattern cutting a size smaller may not make you happy. It may still be 3-4 inches larger than you would like. I also would suggest going by those ease charts and descriptions first because those pattern illustrations might not be accurate and in the photos the garments may have been altered by clothespins pulling fabric and distorting the completed garment.

Update: I found a great example on Pattern Review, Vogue 1287 which is described as "very loose fitting." Read the reviews and what is the only problem most had with this pattern? The huge amount of ease. Which according to Vogue's chart would mean 8" or more. However, looking at the pattern photo, that is not what it looks like but that's what everyone expected. Therefore, to save yourself the frustration that these nine women experienced, definitely start to keep these descriptions in mind because it will help you even if you can't get to the finished garment measurements that you need.

Unfortunately, this kind of detailed ease chart isn't available for the Simplicity Creative Group brands (Simplicity, New Look) but there is this helpful fitting guide** and this handout** for choosing the correct pattern size. Therefore, for these patterns you will have to consult the finished measurements on the pattern's back and on the pattern tissue. Unfortunately, some stores frown on you opening up the pattern tissue in the store before you buy! (Shocking, right?) I've many a time opened up a pattern at home and realized I should have bought another size. At least they'll do an exchange if you have a receipt but it's a pain to go back when you really wanted to start on the project right then.

We may all have our specific problems (see Shams and Robin) that we wish these companies would change, style or otherwise. However, I understand that addressing all of our issues would be a huge financial and logistical undertaking for the Big 4. Perhaps, we can take it one step at a time. What if they could agree to print finished garment measurements on the outside of all pattern envelopes (as well as on the tissue)? Most patterns do print some on the envelope but for fitted dress or wardrobe patterns we need the "Big Three": bust, waist, and hip. Can we all agree on that? What do you think?


*Called the Big 4 but only two actual companies, the McCall Pattern Company (Vogue, McCall's, and Butterick) and the Simplicity Creative Group (Simplicity and New Look).

**Update: Simplicity has a new fitting handout available for download on their website!!!

Images: Examples from Banana Republic, Eloquii (Did you know The Limited had a cool plus-size line?), and The Gap.