Sewing For A Friend - Purl Bee Necktie

This was a two in one project. Not only was I able to give a friend a gift that I think he will appreciate and  use I was also able to make something I have never tried before.

I made my first menswear necktie. I used this free pattern and tutorial on the Purl Bee blog. However, what's really special about this project is that I used a unique batik-like print fabric that I actually acquired from the gift recipient himself. From the first time I spied this fabric I knew I had to make something special out of it, however, originally I was thinking that something would be for me.

Two years ago, this friend temporarily moved cross-country to take care of his ailing parents. After almost a year and only a few months apart he lost both parents. As he went through his parent's 40+ years of belongings he had to decide what to sell, take with him, put in storage, or give away. I became the recipient of his mother's sewing notions and fabrics. He wanted to give them to someone who would make use of them. Last year, I used one piece to make a summer top that I wear frequently. Then I saw the Purl Bee post using all of the lovely Liberty prints and I knew what I had to make and for whom.

The tutorial was simple and I had more than enough fabric. The only thing that stumped me was what to use as tie interfacing. From looking on the Internet, it seems it's not an easy thing to find for the home-sewer. I was going to use muslin or linen scraps when I remembered I already had vintage ties people had given me and took out my trusty seam ripper and voila! After a good soapy soak and drying session I had the exact type of interfacing I needed for this tie.

Can you see my almost-hidden signature?

Though the construction of the tie was no problem, I slowed myself down when it came time to finish. In the past, I've never placed labels on my handmade gifts. However, since this item was very special, I wanted it to be marked that it came from me. I am not skilled in freehand embroidery and my first tries were awful. I finally stuck to it and placed my initials discretely on the back of the tie (see above), in a color chosen so that they are nearly invisible. I also added his monogram on a strip of matching grosgrain ribbon; however, I don't know if it is in the correct position to be used as a keeper.

Note: I think there may be some mistakes in the instructions. The original May 21, 2009 post was updated in April 7, 2011 with a new pattern download and included some images and instructions from an earlier tutorial for a child version. I'm tempted to believe that some of the instructions might have been transferred over without size adjustments. According to the adult tie project the finished tie should be 3" at its widest point. Mine only fit those measurements when I folded in the sides once instead of  twice as instructed. Also some comments have mentioned that the finished tie will be shorter than the average store-bought tie. I will cross my fingers and hope that it doesn't look ridiculous on.

The ribbon actually matches in real life.

Looking around the web this tutorial was also recommended : David Hober custom made tie tutorial. I think I will try that one next. Hopefully, I have some more of his mother's fabric suitable for a man's tie if this one is too small.

Images: My own photos

VA/DC/MD Blogger Meet-Up, Anyone?

Hey, I'm finally getting myself out in public after years of pinching my pennies and staying close to home because of school and lack of funds. I missed out on all the New York meet-ups and even that Philadelphia PR Weekend, which really upset me because I have family there.

So I'm interested in some sort of meet-up of all the Virginia/D.C./Maryland sewing bloggers that I now know of. The number is much higher than I originally thought. (Oh, if you know of any others, please let me know!)

District of Columbia:
Slapdash Sewist IN
A Little Sewing IN

Maryland:
Miss Celie's Pants IN
Smunch IN
Lemony Fresh

New Jersey:
Vacuuming The Lawn Tentative IN

Virginia:
Sew Many Happies
Sew Tawdry IN
As I Said… IN
Sewing Steady IN
Danville Girl Sewing Diary
Gotcha Covered IN
Such a Strange Girl (just found another one!) IN

Are any of you guys interested?

Unfortunately, we don't have that many Virginia options for shopping except for the G Street Fabric locations but I think when ever sewing bloggers get together it's more about the camaraderie and meeting someone interested (or obsessed!) with the same things that you are. Am I right? In addition, G Street does have that $2.75 table, not even Joann or Hancock has fabric that cheap!

Before making any further plans, I first want to know who is interested in meeting up?

I Won A Giveaway!



Patternmaking by Dennic Chunman Lo

I can hardly believe it! I rarely win things and definitely not things that I really REALLY wanted. But this time, I did.

Thanks to the generous giveaway last month by Shams of Communing With Fabric, I won a fabulous copy of the above book, Patternmaking by Dennic Chunman Lo, the director of the Creative Pattern Cutting program at the London College of Fashion. He is also the designer of his own Lo and Cabon label.

The thing I love most about this book is that it provides a detailed step-by-step guide to creating the basic pattern blocks for a bodice, sleeve, skirt, dress, and pants along with information on how to create patterns above and beyond the rules, ex. the book's cover photo. This book looks at pattern making as it applies to the actual human body by giving written and photographic examples of  the body's range of motion and the considerations that must be drafted into a block to accommodate them. There are no complicated formulas to memorize and everything is created by using true body measurements. Although, the book uses a standard English size 12 in the examples all you need to do is replace those measurements with your own.

Patternmaking is part of the Portfolio Skills series of books for student designers (architecture, advertising, fashion, etc.) that are written by top professors at leading art and design schools. They are all published by Laurence King Publishing, Ltd.

For more information on his course, click on any of the links in this post. You will find more detailed reviews of the book on the Flossie Teacakes and Fashion Incubator blogs. In addition, you can also check out this video by Mr. Lo himself:


Pattern Cutting by Dennic Chunman Lo from Laurence King Publishing on Vimeo.

Alabama Chanin and Sewing Patterns

I wanted to let you in on something I noticed a few weeks ago that I think is fabulous. You know Natalie Chanin, right? I've written before about her and even have a link to Amy Palanjian's blog posts about her jersey wedding dress made in collaboration with Chanin's workshop. (Check it out, it's awesome, especially if you love hand sewing, which I do!)

However, have you seen this?

On the Alabama Chanin website, they have a weekly post called DIY Thursdays where they present projects that you can do at home using her techniques. What caught my attention were the posts where Natalie took the intricate and hand sewn details that abound in her clothing line and transferred them to the construction of designer sewing patterns from Vogue (Anna Sui, Vena Cava) and independent designers like Anna Maria Horner.

It's amazing to see the same garments that Vogue makes up in slinky patterned knit and shiny silk fabrics now made up in soft organic cotton jersey with exposed seams, visible hand stitching and sometimes elaborate appliqueing. What she accomplishes with Vogue 1175 (see Vogue's taffeta version below) is amazing. I suddenly want to buy this pattern and make it in a knit. Let's say I was not impressed by it in the stiff, shiny stuff but in a knit jersey it hangs completely different and looks so comfy.

Here are a few of the other patterns that Ms. Chanin choose to replicate, (click on the captions to see the Chanin versions on her blog.)

Vena Cava - Vogue 1258





Tracy Reese - Vogue 1225

Donna Karan - Vogue 1175

Images: The McCall Pattern Company, Alabama Chanin

Fall/Winter Wardrobe: A Fantasy, Perhaps?

Yeah, a fantasy. I just realized that I can't fantasize about any other items of clothing because I still have all of these projects (most with fabric in my stash) lined up. However, look, I added those ones on the bottom row. They were put on there because of some new fabrics at Joanns that they would look great in and I have been wanting those Marcy Tilton pants in a nice ponte forever. There's even a great stretch sateen print for another pair of cigarette pants. Of course, there can't be another pair if I still haven't tackled the first pair, right?

My new resolution is not to say I can't buy any more fabric ('cause that's ridiculous, right?!) but that if I do, then that item has to be made immediately, no delays, no waiting in the stash. The new fabric will be brought home, washed, pressed, lain out, and cut, and sewn in quick succession.

Click to see bigger

 

Let's see if I can follow through on that pledge, it's been getting harder and harder every day.

This past weekend, a friend and I checked out local ritzy clothing store The Phoenix and I tried on a few of their more experimental pieces, from Ronen Chen and Just Jill. These pieces had unusual seam lines, asymmetry, and unexpected volume, very similar to the designs by Mizono, Marcy Tilton, and Sandra Betzina in Vogue Patterns. Now I'm tempted to try some of those but that would require purchasing some double knits in colors other than black. So who knows when I'll ever make them up but at the next Vogue pattern sale, I'm still going to pick up Vogue 1234 and Vogue 1312 just in case.

  

  

Photos for reference