Friday, November 01, 2013

Purple Top Revisited - New Look 6977

This project was created from remains of a 2009 top that no longer fit, New Look 6807.

Pattern: New Look 6977, c. 2010

Pattern Description: Misses' top, pull-on full/slim skirts and pants. A Just4Knits pattern.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (6-16) I originally cut a size 14 according to finished garment measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, though I did make two small alterations.

New Look 6807 to New Look 6977

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much. There isn't much to them but I did appreciate that the pattern begins with some tips on sewing knits. Therefore, I used a combination of straight and zigzag stitches.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The shape seemed very flattering. I chose it because it had a similar neckline and sleeves to a top I made in 2009 that had stretched so much that I could no longer wear it. However, this was more form-fitting and its pieces could be cut out of the original. The only change was I eliminated the gathering detail at center front.

Fabric Used: A rayon/Spandex knit in Potent Purple from Jo-Ann Fabrics and Gutermann polyester thread in #447, Mulberry.

Now - Then

Now - Then

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I liked the neckline and drapiness of the original design (New Look 6807). Unfortunately, this jersey knit kept growing so much that I had not worn it for months. One night, I went out with some friends and had to keep adjusting it every time I moved. It was falling off my shoulders so much that within 10 minutes of getting home I had my seam ripper out and started ripping! I was able to completely cut the new pieces out of the old ones, no additional fabric needed. I even reused the old neckline for the new one.

I used the pattern's finished garment measurements to select the size and of course it was STILL too big!! Luckily, the armscye was large enough (!) that I could safely cut the sleeve in a smaller size; therefore, decreasing the length between shoulder and the bust. It eliminated one inch of length on each side. I then had to taper the top bodice line from a 14 at the armscye notch to a size 6! at the neckline.

At this point, fearing the fabric would stretch even more I fused knit interfacing to the neckline and sleeve openings. At that time, I chose to use a different method a la Alabama Chanin. Using the single-fold binding from the original top I encased the raw edge inside the fold and hand stitched around the neckline with fuchsia thread.

I took note of a suggestion by grays08 on Pattern Review about gaping back armholes. I made sure to baste the top together and try it on again after my alterations; however, I didn't have that problem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. but only because I have successfully adapted the sleeve pieces and altered the body shape to fit me. I am unsure about recommending the pattern because I don't know how much of my problems were due to the fabric or to the pattern. I suggest not only measuring the flat pattern but to also construct a muslin in suitable and similar fabric.

Conclusion: I love the finished result but to get there I needed to make multiple alterations to this pattern. Though not ideal, I do now have a custom pattern to make as many of these as I want and I definitely want more.

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