Attempted Make-under - Assembly Line Cuff Top

Well, I did attempt to recreate The Assembly Line Cuff Top on my own using images from the internet and a self-drafted pattern (see below.) I created my pattern by using their measured diagram of the top and my actual measurements. I used some of my stashed white eyelet fabric since I have so much of it. 

However, not being sure that I got the amount of ease right and not knowing exactly how they applied the elastic to the sleeves kept me from completing it. I really didn't want to be disappointed in another sad quarantine make. 

 

So, that led me to treat myself in the end. I had received $30 as a "tip" for watching a friend's dog for the weekend (It was my pleasure, really!) Even though I couldn't believe I was paying that much for such a simple pattern, I went ahead and clicked Purchase. I am so glad I did!

As you can see, I did pretty well. My attempt at the pattern ended up very close to the real thing except that the size corresponded to size XS-S in the Cuff Top while TAL had my measurements match up with their Large size.

Pattern: The Assembly Line Cuff Top (2018)

Pattern Description: Loose-fit top with boatneck, center seam detail, and cut-on sleeves with gathered cuffs.

Pattern Sizing: Available in two size ranges: XS-L and XL-4XL. I cut a Large that matched my bust measurement resulting in finished garment ease of 8."

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly the same.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely easy! As simple as can be.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the instruction booklet! Great detailed instructions in a clever and simple design.

Fabric Used: Premium quilt cotton yarn dye chambray (100% cotton) from Joann Fabrics, Dritz 2" Soft Waistband Elastic, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Iris #900.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: This was the first time I've ever used a 1 cm seam allowance. As an American, it always sounded too small to me, but it's essentially 3/8." 

The instructions suggest finishing all seams with an overlocker or a zig-zag stitch.  The shoulder, center front, and center back seams were flat-felled, which added style and detail.

When it came to the sleeves, the elastic insertion instructions in the booklet were lacking. I found it much easier following instructions for an elastic waistband like this Craftsy tutorial. You have control over the gathers this way.

That same detail in my eyelet version.

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will definitely make even more of these. It's a simple pattern, but it has style. It is very versatile, looking completely different in all types of fabrics, from flat quilting cottons to drapey silks.

Conclusion: After wearing both versions I have decided that I want something slightly smaller than my official TAL version (with 8" of wearing ease) but larger than my faux version. I think I will make all others in size M for less wearing ease and a narrower neck opening.

Affixed with my label.

Asymmetrically Draped Tartan Skirt - Vogue 7607

Pattern: Vogue 7607 (2002) OOP

Pattern Description: Skirt with contour waist, lined yoke, side zipper, and shaped hemline. A, B: A-line, bias, below mid-knee with mock wrapped front. C: bias and slightly flared.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 18, 20, 22. I used size 20 for the skirt and cut the yoke between sizes 20 and 22.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes and no. It does match the illustrations. However, it looks much different on the body, where the asymmetry seems more exaggerated and awkward.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very easy; the only thing that may give some trouble is installing the zipper after the skirt is assembled. I chose to do it another way.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I have a love for drape, movement, and asymmetric design. After seeing this pattern on the internet, I searched for over a year before finding the larger size group on eBay.

Fabric Used: 2 yards 60" sportswear plaid in red, orange, and black tartan (100% acrylic) from Joann Fabrics, black mystery polyester lining and vintage seam binding from the stash, Pellon EK130 Easy-Knit fusible interfacing, Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Chili Red #420, and a vintage 7" Robin zipper in Olive Green.

Rear view

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Disregarding the finished garment measurements, I cut the yoke out between sizes 20 and 22. I applied fusible knit interfacing to those pieces for stability because this fabric behaved like a light flannel.

Unfortunately, the skirt section, without interfacing, stretched out of shape. I had to recut the upper back section using the pattern piece to match the waistband. I tapered out the sides of the skirt to still keep that section wider to fit my hips.

The hem for this skirt is enormous, and hemming is the second thing you are supposed to do after sewing the three skirt pieces together. It can be a bit time consuming, especially if you press it in place and baste it in the way that I do before stitching.

The next step is to attach the yoke and add reinforcement to the skirt's top edge with seam binding along the seamline as a waist stay. I lucked out on having this coordinating vintage coral binding in my stash.

The next step is to insert the zipper, and the instructions call for a lapped zipper, but I'm not a fan. I find them fussy and awkward, especially for insertion in a side seam. I decided to use a centered zipper application because I could baste the side opening together and stitch the zipper down.

Once done, the lining for the facing was attached to the skirt, understitched, and hand-sewn in place.

This is the skirt riding low on my hips.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I'm not sure. The shape of this didn't end up looking the way I expected it to on a body. I'm not sure if it was the wrong fabric choice or something else. I hope I change my mind because I own the Vogue 9355, the Meghan Markle/Roland Mouret lookalike dress that also has a very similar front-draped skirt. So, I may try View C at some point, in a more stable fabric.

Inspiration images for what I thought I was making:

Lafayette 148 NY Rosabell tartan skirt ($400)

Monse patchwork plaid wrap skirt

Alexander McQueen plaid midiskirt

Conclusion: Despite not being in love with the final skirt shape, I'm still glad I tracked this pattern down and made it up. It is a high impact look.

 

The end of the dart fades out nicely.

UPDATE: Having stable fabric and making the right size is crucial! Months later, wearing it while taking these pictures, I found it was too large. I had to wear it down near my hips, and it spun around as I walked. I ended up pinning a large dart (2" total!) through the back yoke and skirt. The added benefit of this change is that by having the waist up where is should be, the skirt looks closer to the A-line shape of my inspiration pictures, though not as full.

Big Bad Floral Wrap Dress - New Look 6301

Pattern: New Look 6301 (2014)

Pattern Description: Misses' mock wrap dress has slim or flared skirt, several sleeve options, and three types of waist treatments (tie, no tie, band) with an elastic casing at the waist. A Just 4 Knits dress. I made View A.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (8-10-12-14-16-18-20) I cut a size 18 bodice, no alterations, to begin with...

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, fairly simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The finished garment pictures of this dress look great, and at the time, this was the only wrap dress pattern I could find with a fuller skirt.

Fabric Used: 57" double brushed knit in Multi Shana Floral (97% Rayon, 3% Spandex) from Jo-ann Fabrics, Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread in Claret #440 and Copenhagen #933.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: After a few pattern reviews from (Sewsarahsmith and Sew-To-Fit), I decided to take their suggestions and do the following: I added length, about 4" to each of the waist ties. I also shortened the neckband by an inch to eliminate any possible gaping in the neckline.

Printed off-grain

What I didn't expect was that my fabric would continue to stretch. By the time I basted the skirt to the bodice, it seemed to have stretched out more than three inches. Luckily, I had only basted the side seams, so I took the dress completely apart, compared it to the pattern pieces, and recut. Even the armholes had increased in size!

Waist is much lower than it should be.

I cut an inch off the skirt length. Then I shortened the bodice length by 1/2." I would have liked more but didn't want to interfere with the darts at the side waist. Both the side and shoulder seams lost about 1/2", subject to me trying it on again. I also shortened the neckband piece; since everything else had stretched out, I can only imagine that the neckline did too.

I took great care not to stretch the fabric further. After a series of Big 4 pattern sleeves being too tight on me, I cut these a size larger in width, keeping everything else the same. However, I ended up sewing the sides at 6/8" when they seemed too loose. In addition, the excess ease was ridiculous; the sleeve caps are essentially gathered. I knew then how completely OVER this dress I was since I didn't try to fix it. I needed to hem it and then put it in the magic drawer (won't be hanging this one!) until I forget all about this frustration!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I still love the pattern's look and will attempt it with a more stable knit next time.

Conclusion: This dress will be worn nonetheless. Well, until it stretches itself out beyond recognition! Unfortunately, it will not function as a muslin because I have no idea what the true fit and ease of this pattern are because of this fabric's low quality.

Historical note: Photographed after voting early, October 2020.

Sewing Update!

I can't believe it's been months since I wrote anything here. I've been thinking sewing if not doing it during the quarantine.

I have been lucky in the fact that my job had us start working from home the second week of March. My sewing room-slash-guest room added another name and use as a work-from-home office.

I first attempted a reorganization of my supplies, which made some improvement but needs more. I created separate binders that hold all the printed-out copies (the majority) of my PDF patterns; all my fitting and alteration tutorials and research; and another for general home repair and craft projects.

Unfortunately, I still have enough fabric that I have more than the plastic bins can hold, and some fabrics are in garbage bags. I'm not too fond of the message that is sending.

So, the main goal this summer was working through my immediate summer/fall projects. Instead of having yardage in various drawers, bins, and bags, I wanted it instead worn on my body. 

However, summer got away from me. Unfortunately, I hurt my back more than a month ago. I believe the chair I was using to work-from-home was the culprit. I've been seeing a chiropractor for that last three weeks and am slowing starting to sew again. You see, since the injury, I couldn't sit upright for weeks, so there was no sitting down in front of my machine. I've just started to sew again.

First on the list are some simple tops from leftover pieces of fabric in the stash. One top is a modified square with armholes. Another is my makeunder of the Assembly Line Cuff Top, which I can't seem to forget. I saw a picture of the actual pattern piece on Instagram, and I am attempting my version. 

I did buy more fabric, but it was all for quick makes, and unfortunately, both my sewjo and my back died, and most are still waiting. 

I have some cotton blends I bought back in 2019 from Joann's, especially for spring and summer tops, which I will STILL make after the muslins. That's what cardigans are for, right? Then I have some of my tried n' true fabric for shorts and a lovely dusky purple linen that I bought before the Jo-Ann Fabrics boycott. 

 

The linen is for a Simplicity 9139 that would replicate this inspiration photo.

After that, I caught a sale from Fabricmart for horizontally striped jerseys, my fabric weakness. Hopefully, one of them will be my first The Friday Company Adrienne blouse, another indie pattern that I've fallen in love with this year. The other two will be simple t-shirts, and luckily these all can be worn for a couple more months.

So, there should be more sewing content soon. But, don't hold me to that.

Please, Help Me Make Up My Mind!

Last year, I fell in love the this fabric from Jo-Ann Fabrics, their amazing leaf-a-palooza print stretch crepe. I had to have it. Ever since then, I've been stumped as to what to make with it, though.

I know I want something that takes advantage of its drape, something with a fuller skirt, and some swishy movement. Perhaps, some ruffles and gathers?

However, I don't want so much fabric that the details can't be seen, or my shape becomes lost in the pattern.

Here are a few of my thoughts. As time went on, the choices kept multiplying. I need your help!

This dress was my first thought:

Simplicity 8888

The lack of waist definition worried me. After seeing a few of these made up I think it would have a strong muumuu vibe. The original inspiration (seen below) by Jasper Conran looks great despite not having any waistline.

Jasper Conran S/S 2017

So no go for this pattern, at least in this fabric. I still think it would work in a solid or a more subtle pattern, and I will probably make it one day.

Then there are these:

I already own the top two patterns, with B6677, being the frontrunner. I adored view A in the illustration from the get-go, but was not excited about the full-length version in the photo. I think I would need to alter the neckline into a deeper rounded v-shape because the print might be overwhelming.

Butterick 6677

I honestly bought McCall's 7381 because of the photograph, the illustrations didn't appeal to me at all. However, with this print fabric, I think the bulk of the waist ties and the sleeves ending right at breast height might not be the best for my figure. So, it might be better in the full-length, sleeveless version.

McCall's 7381

Most recently, I noticed Butterick 6705. I think it has a good design balance. Though again, it is rocking an empire waist instead of one at my waist.

Butterick 6705

Simplicity 9041 has a more appealing neckline, where it doesn't crowd the neck and is more open. I think I'd really like it in the short version with perhaps a ruffled band around the armscye, much like in B6677.

Simplicity 9041

This last option is a Cynthia Rowley-designed OOP from 2011. I always thought view B would make a great summer wedding dress in a silk crepe or crepe de chine. You know the type of boho dress topped with a crown of wildflowers in the hair? Again, I would want to amend the design by adding a ruffled tier to the bottom and eliminating the droopy hanging necktie.

Simplicity 1939

What do you think I should make? I realize the problem isn't really with the patterns but my inability to imagine the final silhouette on my body and my fear of disappointment after putting all that work in.

At this moment, I definitely think I will use the tiered skirt of B6677, view C. The mystery is what will the bodice look like because I think I want something less blousy and more sleek than the options above? So, maybe some frankenpattern work is ahead?