Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Progress Being Made

New pattern piece is a mash-up of Simplicity 4111 and New Look 6836
  1. I made up a muslin for the "milk maid" blouse using my adapted pattern. I used the new front piece which is a size 14 with the 4111 pattern's back piece in size 12. There was some gaping at the v-neck, so I pinched about 1/4" from the inner shoulder seam and the neckline then laid flat. To the back I added shaping through two small darts at the back neckline, much like those used in vintage patterns.

    The bodice fit seems good but there is a pretty severe twisting problem with the sleeve. So, I have to deal with that before I can move on.

  2. In a break from that project, I had a sudden desire to work on the Pastille pattern alteration some more. Instead of my haphazard way of decreasing the bodice back length, this time I used directions straight from "Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns." Luckily, the pages concerning these type of alterations were available online through Google Books. The first time, I had just folded out the amount I thought I needed, at least 2 inches.

    This time, I first taped all of the darts closed on both the front and back pieces. I then pinned them together at the shoulder and side seams. With this 3-D model, I could see exactly where the extra length was located in the pattern; midway between the shoulder and bottom of the armhole. Strangely enough, it looks like this discrepancy is built into the pattern and not just a problem for me because of my short (14.5" long) back measurement.

    Next step will be constructing another dress muslin using this new altered bodice, and shaving the bell-shaped skirt into a straighter skirt by reducing that unwanted width at the upper thigh.


  3. I did go and do the comparison of the c-curves of my pant pattern possibilities, Vogue 9745, Vogue 2883 (these shorts), Vogue 2532, and Vogue 1922. Next I will do a comparison of the more jean-inspired patterns, the Colette Clover and Built by Wendy's Sew U jeans.

    Images: My own pictures


Chris said...

this is very interesting - thanks for mentioning how you lined up the patterns for making the adjustments.

Looking forward to your posting about your progress

Laura said...

You are a trooper with the Pastille. I completely gave up and repurposed the skirt into something that's quite comfortable. I'll go looking for some lighter fabric and make a proper muslin before I get started again.

I do wonder if the pattern is meant to exemplify the chapter though?

Annette said...

How did you fix the sleeve problem? I have this on EVERY pattern!

Annette said...

Did you ever find a solution to the twisted sleeve? I'm having the same problem.