Wednesday, April 02, 2014

Clutch A Crepe Suzette - (exclusive download)

Pattern: Crepe Suzette Circular Clutch, a HotPatterns/ exclusive pattern.

Pattern Description: Simple fold-over lined clutch features interior phone and small pocket with stitched dividers. Clutch has a shaped gusset to add depth to the sides and bottom, topstitching around the edges and closes with a magnetic purse snap.

Pattern Sizing: One size, approximately 8" tall by 14" wide.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow? Well...

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I checked and unfortunately, found that only one person has reviewed this pattern. As I went along, I found that there were problems with this pattern and its instructions starting with the location marks for the magnetic snaps. If you follow the pattern markings, they will not meet. Even the illustrations in the instructions show the locations wrong.

Fabric Used: 5/8 yd of black corduroy, 5/8" yd black boucle, 5/8 yards of red brushed twill (former Nautica buttoned tab curtains from Target) as lining, Pellon Shape-Flex (SF101) woven fusible interfacing, Pellon Easy-Knit (EK130) fusible tricot interfacing, and one Dritz 3/4" magnetic snap.

Before Construction: First thing, first, I cut and ripped the drapery panels on all four sides to make sure the fabric was on grain before I cut out the pieces.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The marking for the magnetic closure on the pocket is in the wrong place on the pattern piece and on the illustrations in the instructions. Therefore, I first moved the snap location mark towards the bottom of the pocket pattern piece. I also "walked" the pattern to make sure that all the notches would match on both the main, pocket, and gusset pieces.

Having never used a magnetic closure I was happy to find this tutorial on Made By Rae and this one by You SEW Girl that made the job a no-brainer.
The illustrations for step 5a (see above) were confusing and because of the above mistake I decided to create a mockup of the purse, reducing the size drastically, to about 1/5 the size.

The three photos above are step 5a. You want to match notches and stitch each gusset to the pocket piece with the pocket in between.

The overhang at each top corner is stitched together so that the gussets can be turned to the right side and not only line the gusset section but also encase any raw edges.
The front pocket and lined gusset assembly.

Note: When constructing the real purse, I found myself with a corduroy that picked up every last piece of lint, no longer looking as rich as I wanted. I found some black boucle in the stash but instead of scraping one for the other, I underlined the interfaced boucle with the already interfaced corduroy for a thicker fabric. Therefore, with some of the pieces, I was working with double the fabric weight and I liked the resulting heft.
Lined pocket
Another problem I had with the instructions was step 3a. I didn't like that according to them the inner pockets would have visible raw edges inside so I cut two pockets pieces, (one of a silkier lining material) sewed them right sides together, and turned them right sides out.

In step 6, because of the fabric weight I decided to back the red twill with a layer of light interfacing before I attached the pocket/gusset piece.

The interior of the fully lined purse with gusset panel and inside cell phone pocket before step 7.

The exterior of the pocket and gusset panel, featuring the magnetic snap.

Step 7 has you sandwich the two parts of the purse, right sides together. Here you can see the two different types of interfacing I used in my purse: the Easy-Knit is fused to the lighter twill used for the interior while the Shape-Flex takes on the heft of the corduroy and boucle layers that make up the clutch and pocket exterior.

In this step, they instruct you to leave a section open between the two bottom notches so that you can turn the purse right side out. However, I felt that part should look the most finished, so instead I left a section open at the top instead. I would rather hand stitch that section closed than the many fabric and interfacing layers that made up the weight-bearing portion of the clutch. The pattern says to topstitch all edges, which would probably add more structure to the clutch; however, I found this would not work with my fabric choice so I did not.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would love to make this shape in a graphic print or floral. I think this is a great clutch pattern and I recommend it with the corrections and changes that I made.

Cartoon version!

Conclusion: I am very happy with my purse. This would be a great pattern if the instructions and illustrations were updated. I love that there are no unfinished seams (the way I made it) and the unusual shape. I searched the Internet and could not find another like it.

Images: website illustration and my own photos


Kyle said...

That is a unique shape! Looks great!!

SEWN said...

Very cute!

Beth – Sew DIY said...

Your bag looks great! I remember seeing this pattern and thinking it looks cute. Sounds like it was a challenge though! It might be easier just to freestyle it on your own. :)