Monday, October 31, 2016

Last of the Summer Shorts - New Look 6216

Pattern: New Look 6216 (2013)

Pattern Description: Misses' pull-on pants with drawstring waist and easy knit top with scoop neck and short all-in-one sleeves or higher neckline with 3/4 dolman sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: Size A (8-18) I chose size 18 based on the finished garment measurements.  

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? I changed them into shorts and eliminated the drawstring, but yes, I guess they do look like the picture.

Were the instructions easy to follow? These are extremely easy to make, there is one error in the pattern but it is very easy to correct.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted easy pants, so the elastic waist was a plus and the pockets are just so extremely clever and easy.

Fabric Used: Sew Classics denim heather solid suiting* $6.99 per yard from Jo-Ann Fabrics; thread; and Dritz 1-inch wide braided elastic.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: This is the second time using this pattern for pants. My earlier pair no longer fit comfortably, so I had to increase the seam allowances. I originally cut a 14, so this time I added 1" to the sides to allow for the two-size jump to an 18, therefore, supplying 4" of wearing ease.

Another change needed in the original pair was that the front waistband rose too high and the back was too low. In order to fit my particular body, I slashed and spread, added 1" to the center back crotch length and eliminated the same amount on the center front. The trousers were designed to sit just below the natural waistline but on me that was too tall.

I used an existing pair of shorts to determine how long to make these. I ended up cutting them right below the notches at the hip resulting in a 4" inseam measurement.

There is an error in the pattern piece for the waistband. The waist of the shorts are smaller than the sewn waistband piece. I suppose when I first made these I believed the error was mine and I fixed it then by creating two pleats in the front. But here it is again. My remedy was to only match the side seams and the middle point of the waistband to the corresponding points on the shorts. I also basted the waist of the shorts so I could gather it to match the width of the waistband. Since this area would eventually be gathered further by elastic, I knew it wouldn't matter or look strange.

I attached the elastic waistband and as some twisting was already apparent, I top-stitched the waistband, sewing right up to the edge of the enclosed elastic. After distributing the gathers around the shorts, with the majority in the back, I "stitched in the ditch" at the side and back seams to further keep the elastic in place.

To hem the shorts I gathered along the seam line to ease them in a bit and hand stitched the hem in place. A light steam on the hem helped "shrink" up the majority of the resulting puckers.

Conclusion: The pattern made very cute shorts. There was some kind of problem; however, where the shorts rode up in the rear as I walked. Obviously, this was not evident in the long legged version, so must have something to do with my alteration of the crotch length, perhaps I needed to add some back to the inner leg seam. However, for end of summer shorts, they were fine and they did make it through an entire day of walking through Busch Gardens!

*I can't say more great things about this fabric, I now have four garments made from it. Yes, it's polyester but I love the feel and how hearty it is, no wrinkles (!), dries quickly, and takes a good press. Luckily, Jo-Anns has been selling it consistently for the last six years.

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