Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Sewing For My Curves

Have you checked out the Sewing For My Curves series on the Curvy Sewing Collective yet? You should. I've thoroughly enjoyed reading about other women telling it like it is and sharing the truth about how different every individual body is.

Well, I finally took the time to take new measurements and was surprised (once again) by what size I really am. Forgive me, members of the Collective, as I steal your format to map out my plans.

My Body*:

Upper Bust: 37"
Full Bust: 38.5"
Waist: 34"
Hip: 44
Height: 5'4"
Body type: Hourglass
RTW Size: I really have no idea, probably a 12.
Pattern Size: 16 on top and 20 on the bottom
Attributes: slightly uneven shoulders, high waist, narrow back, swayback/prominent buttocks, full thighs, proportionate hips

Pattern Adjustments I Make:
  • Use high bust to choose pattern size
  • Grade between bust to waist/and hips (which are the same pattern size)
  • Compare paper pattern measurements to my own
  • Shorten the back waist length
  • Add width to biceps
  • Attempt FBAs when needed

Where I Am Now

Since I turned 40, I have been putting on weight slowly, year by year. I wasn't bothered since everything was still staying in proportion and my clothes still fit. However, I have found that the gains are increasing so more quickly now. At some time I had gained 10 pounds without even noticing.

I have always had a proportionally small waist and unfortunately, that is where all my weight is going now. I hate the way it feels in my elastic waist skirts and looks in my slim fitting dresses. Therefore, clothing-wise, I am currently avoiding anything that obscures the waist because I feel the need to emphasize how slim I am there when compared with my fuller top and bottom.

A fit & flare silhouette is my go-to now and the way I will feel better in my clothes. For the time being no sheath or shift dresses and there has to be some waist definition, even if it's just the addition of a belt. The following patterns fit that silhouette.

Sewing Wishlist From My Stash:

Butterick 6316
McCall's 7415
New Look 6301
Simplicity 1560
McCall's 7432
Vogue 8665
Simplicity 1325

What's My Sewing Goal:

Create slopers that I will compare with all my store bought patterns. I will create two for the torso, one with McCall's 7279, a commercial fitting pattern (with Palmer & Pletsch instructions) and a second one drafted from the instructions in Pattern Cutting by Dennic Chunman Lo. For my bottom half, I will create a skirt sloper with steps from the Cal Patch book, Design It Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified and I will use McCall's 7415 (also Palmer & Pletsch) to create a no side-seam pant (similar to the Persephone pant by Anna Allen) before attempting a more traditional pant pattern.

* As of May 2018.

1 comment:

Susan G. said...

Good for you! I really admire you for posting your measurements so the fitting adjustments make sense. Having a fitting sloper is really worth the effort (if only my old trousers sloper still fit!) Like you, I was surprised to find how quickly my body changes now that I'm getting older. When I was in my forties, whether I weighed 150 or 170 my waist was always 10 to 12 inches smaller than my bust and hips (I was a total hourglass.) I thought I didn't have the "Type 2 diabetes" body shape so I didn't worry. Sad fact: once your waist passes the 34" mark, you do have to check your glucose level every year! Stay healthy and keep writing! P.S. Actors used to tell me, "I have one arm longer than the other." Usually, they actually had one shoulder lower than the other, and before adjusting their coat sleeve length, inserting a small shoulder pad (1/4 to 1/2" inch thick) usually did the trick. In dresses with sleeves, it works for women, too :)