Looking at the New Year

Hiya. Happy New Year!

I hoped to have three completed pattern reviews on here before 2019 but it didn't happen. Getting photos for the blog just wasn't possible even though I had brought two of the pieces on holiday with me. I just didn't feel like begging some family member to take photographs last week. It always becomes such a hassle. It's weird but non-bloggers seem to not understand what 'take a picture of my outfit looking good' means. So much bunched and lumpy fabric, unattractive body positions, weird shadows, and so much blurriness, ugh! So, I will try again by myself while also starting on my first new projects for the New Year.

Shana floral and Ponderosa interlock from Jo-Ann

Currently in my queue are another simple knit tee and a highly anticipated knit wrap dress. The green interlock originally was to be a TNT New Look 6838; however, I've decided to try the top from Simplicity 1325. I compared the patterns and this one has a different armscye and longer sleeves. It doesn't have a back seam (for shaping) so I will change that.

New Look 6301

The wrap dress is something I've wanted for a while but since I wanted a fuller skirt I was surprised to find that most Big 4 wrap dresses are designed with straight skirts. Therefore, I bought New Look 6301 and I hope that it works out. I've read reviews of this one and others similar that day the bodice could be tricky if you're more than a B-cup.

If I have any sewing goals for the New Year it is to
complete my goals from last year:

• Develop a fitting shell from McCall's 7279
• Draft actual slopers
• Learn to fit pants correctly and make lots of them
• Work through my fabric stash (I was doing so well before buying silk for that family wedding!)

So, let's get this plan in action, everything is cut out and ready to go. Also, look out for my last two pattern reviews from 2018, hopefully soon.

Sewing For My Curves

Have you checked out the Sewing For My Curves series on the Curvy Sewing Collective yet? You should. I've thoroughly enjoyed reading about other women telling it like it is and sharing the truth about how different every individual body is.

Well, I finally took the time to take new measurements and was surprised (once again) by what size I really am. Forgive me, members of the Collective, as I steal your format to map out my plans.

My Body*:

Upper Bust: 37"
Full Bust: 38.5"
Waist: 34"
Hip: 44
Height: 5'4"
Body type: Hourglass
RTW Size: I really have no idea, probably a 12.
Pattern Size: 16 on top and 20 on the bottom
Attributes: slightly uneven shoulders, high waist, narrow back, swayback/prominent buttocks, full thighs, proportionate hips

Pattern Adjustments I Make:

• Use high bust to choose pattern size
• Grade between bust to waist/and hips (which are the same pattern size)
• Compare paper pattern measurements to my own
• Shorten the back waist length
• Add width to biceps
• Attempt FBAs when needed

Where I Am Now

Since I turned 40, I have been putting on weight slowly, year by year. I wasn't bothered since everything was still staying in proportion and my clothes still fit. However, I have found that the gains are increasing so more quickly now. At some time I had gained 10 pounds without even noticing.

I have always had a proportionally small waist and unfortunately, that is where all my weight is going now. I hate the way it feels in my elastic waist skirts and looks in my slim fitting dresses. Therefore, clothing-wise, I am currently avoiding anything that obscures the waist because I feel the need to emphasize how slim I am there when compared with my fuller top and bottom.

A fit & flare silhouette is my go-to now and the way I will feel better in my clothes. For the time being no sheath or shift dresses and there has to be some waist definition, even if it's just the addition of a belt. The following patterns fit that silhouette.

Sewing Wishlist From My Stash:

Butterick 6316
McCall's 7415
New Look 6301
Simplicity 1560
McCall's 7432
Vogue 8665
Simplicity 1325

What's My Sewing Goal:

Create slopers that I will compare with all my store bought patterns. I will create two for the torso, one with McCall's 7279, a commercial fitting pattern (with Palmer & Pletsch instructions) and a second one drafted from the instructions in Pattern Cutting by Dennic Chunman Lo. For my bottom half, I will create a skirt sloper with steps from the Cal Patch book, Design It Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified and I will use McCall's 7415 (also Palmer & Pletsch) to create a no side-seam pant (similar to the Persephone pant by Anna Allen) before attempting a more traditional pant pattern.

* As of May 2018.

Odds and Ends - The Three Rs

While I've not been sewing any new makes, I did decide to increase my wardrobe numbers. There have been garments kept in my wardrobe through recent purges that I was still not wearing for various reasons. Every now and then, I would complete repairs on these unworn items; therefore, I've been mending and making alterations to garments in my closet instead of straight-out replacing or discarding them. So, new-to-me clothes!

Repair

Reinforced and repaired back seam on this skirt that split over the holidays when I leaned down to pick up something. (See recent post on weight gain.) It's fixed, but I still have to lose a few pounds to be sure it doesn't happen again.

Used fusible interfacing to mend torn areas on some favorite items and to reinforce seams and pivot points on older garments.

Refashion

Altered the unflattering neckline on my recent Simplicity 8529 from a too-large cowl to a wide jewel neck.

Removed, reshaped (by streamlining the shape), and replaced the straps (moved them closer to center front) on this Butterick 6424 top. Unfortunately, it did not work without underarm gaping, but I will try again later after the frustrated feelings fade.

A plaid flannel dress, McCall's 6885, became sleeveless after I finally removed the always-have-been-too-tight sleeves and bound the armhole edges. This top also received snaps placed between the gaping buttons over my currently more ample bust. Alas, it's still a little tight.

Replace

Replaced inadequate (too short) elastic in two knit skirt waistbands. I've now been wearing them more often since they're no longer uncomfortable when I'm sitting.

Swapped new fold-over elastic for old trim on some still-wearable knit tank tops. This is still in progress.

At the same time, the other thing I've been doing is deciding which handmade items are actually worthy of my personalized labels and the time it takes to stitch them in by hand. About half of the ones above got them, the others are in time-out to be reevaluated later.

Stripes Galore - T-Shirts And Comfy Tops

So, I'm sewing again. No, I did not get a new job yet but I need something to do for fun around here. So why not start acquiring those striped t-shirts I've talked about always wanting.

First four are from Girl Charlee and the last two are from Mood Fabrics.

The Fabrics:

A while ago, I bought some striped ponte de roma from Mood Fabrics(!) for a pair of t-shirts. I think I might now use one, the jade and mustard stripe, for a t-shirt dress made from New Look 6838. Since I only have two yards, it will be short-sleeved for spring similar to the examples below from Banana Republic and Zara..

After buying that amazing ponte from Mood, I found out about a sale at Girl Charlee and I decided to give the company another try. I had a disappointment with an order a year ago with a semi-sheer knit that wasn't advertised as such. Not only was the white portion of the mustard and white stripe fabric see-through but the mustard was printed instead of being woven in the fabric. I returned it and exchanged it for a superior black and white Lycra knit that I did love and used here. So one good - one bad. However, I was still leery of the accuracy of their fabric descriptions on the blog and as it turned out, I was right to be.

The haul from Girl Charlee

With the fabrics averaging a price of $4, I decided to take the chance and ordered four cotton poly blend knits described as 7 oz. lightweight to mid-weight and one 10 oz. medium weight patterned ponte.

Well, even though the four knits felt soft and had drape, they were no way near mid-weight, in fact, the ones striped with white were see-through at the white parts and specifically, the red and white one read as red with extremely pale pink stripes. I prefer my white to be opaque.

10 oz. ponte print

In addition, their black and white ponte was thinner than any ponte that I've encountered and again the white portions of the print would require a lining if I made it as a skirt, which had been the goal.

I am first trying out the two grey-striped fabrics, they have already been washed. I feel they are not as scandalous as the white striped ones, which would definitely require a camisole if worn. Because of the low prices, I don't feel bad using the others purely for muslin since I have a lot of free knit top patterns I would like to try out. The ponte might be used for a boxy top instead of the Mod-inspired skirt I originally wanted.

The Patterns:

Grainline Hemlock (1.5 yards), Simplicity 6216 (1 yard), New Look 6838 (1.5 yards), Grainline Scout tee (1.75 yards), and Let's Twist Again... from Burdastyle (2 yards).

Images: Banana Republic, Zara, Grainline Studio, Simplicity, and McCall Pattern Company.

Changes Must Be Made

It's the beginning of a new year and in order for it to be an improvement over the worst year of my life (2014) major changes must be made.

I found last year that even though sewing was a great release from the constant stress and/or malaise I was experiencing the final result was not satisfying. First there was the fact that sewing time was hard won and projects took a long time whether I was motivated to finish them or not.

Then the knowledge that I would have no occasion to wear these clothes or my other past handmade garments was depressing. I have no social life here and no time to cultivate one with my inconsistent retail hours. I just worked seven 8-hour days in a row! I don't know for sure but that is something I know would never have happened in any office job I've ever had without a conversation happening between employer and employee first, right?

Sewing was the least that I could do to calm myself down when work conflicts or arguments with my father occurred.

Therefore, I doubt there will be much sewing in the future as I try to secure a new more "healthy for me" job/life. I need to pursue an office job where I can use my hard-won skills, experience, and again feel intelligent and accomplished.

I will be reading from a more selective list of blogs that correspond more directly to my own style since keeping up with the 80+ Bloglovin' group I currently read has become another wildly successful procrastination tool. Also, my love of Internet TV will need to decrease. My consumption is crazy, especially when it concerns British programs.

I do have a huge fear, as sewing has been my only joy (however compromised) that I have, I am scared what might become of me without it.

I don't want to get used to this lifestyle any more than I already have. I heard someone say that "the life you are living now is the life you deserve". Hell no! This is the life my emotionally broken-down self started to think was all I was worth, which is not the same thing at all. My life has been so much better than this and I HAVE to believe it will be that again.

I'm Still Here...

Hints of things to come:

 

 

March 2013 Sewing Update



Isn't it cute?

It IS cute. However, I will no longer work by these cute little wardrobe layouts because they just stress me out. My first three completed projects this year were not on any of them.

I do want to finish all those past projects but I'm more excited to complete new ones as they occur to me. In fact, I do have my third project finished and you might see it this weekend, if the photos work out. Just like every other blogger, it seems there is no decent natural light in my home!

My next few projects are made from newer stash fabric; leftovers scraps from homemade holiday gifts, a Girl Charlee knit, and some wool from the VA/DC/MD blogger swap. I just feel more motivated getting these done now, as opposed to somewhere down my list, which usually means a year or more from now (see 4-year old Colette Oolong project). I do however, hope to sew up another (hopefully the last) Moss skirt muslin this weekend since it would coordinate with three of these "spontaneous" projects.

All I can say, is I will try and we will see.

Have a great weekend, and I hope you get some quality sewing in!

7. Summer Shift Dress - New Look 6939 (OOP)

Pattern: New Look 6939 (OOP)

Pattern Description: Slightly A-line, knee-length shift dress with v-neck option and front darts.

Pattern Sizing: (8-18) I made a size 12 bodice, blending out to a size 14 at hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, except I did not include the neckline ruffle for this version.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, extremely easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It's easy, perfect for a quick, cute make. I have made this dress before and love the forgiving shape, its perfect for a summer dress.

Fabric Used: 2 1/2 yards cotton in Alexander Henry Mocca in Chocolate from my stash, bought years ago in 2007 for $7.25 per yard. This feels like a thin crisp poplin and doesn't wrinkle! 1/2 yard matching red rayon challis from Hancock Fabric for the contrast skirt border.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made no size changes because my other version of this dress still fits well and I had altered the pattern pieces at that time. However, both the drape, weight, and neckline of that one was different and I should have taken that into consideration. I ended up shortening the shoulder length by 3/4" inch because the bodice would rise above my shoulders when I sat down. There was too much length from armscye to shoulder seam, something that wasn't as noticeable in the first dress.

It took me a long time to finish this dress because I didn't have enough fabric and had to add a border of a different fabric to the bottom to make up the length, much like my other dress. The print fabric does not wrinkle; however, the challis does and did not have as much body. Therefore, I used two layers of the challis, a self-lining of sorts, to provide more structure and eliminate the need for a hem.

Instead of trying to cut straight on the slippery challis, instead I pulled threads to straighten the grain, making a perfect rectangle, that I folded it in half, and attached one side to the bottom of the dress and hand sewed the other over the seam, encasing it inside. Both fabrics pressed well and resulted in a neat border. I  finished the inside side seams by folding the seam allowances under and stitching down the middle, leaving no raw edges visible.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will probably make this dress many more times. However, for some reason, the dress feels a wee bit looser this time, perhaps the linen version shrunk at some point. I love that this dress pattern can be adapted and changed infinitely. It would look lovely as a brocade cocktail shift from the 60's. If you can not find this exact same pattern, there is now a more recent version, New Look 6095. It is a quick dress to whip up in a day or two. Just remember to buy enough fabric!

Conclusion: I knew this was a perfect marriage of pattern and fabric. I wanted a simple dress design that wouldn't steal thunder from the large, bold, and colorful print and I believe I succeeded.

Images: My own photos

My Sewing Library UPDATED

Almost three years ago, I wrote a post listing all the sewing books that I had at the time. Since then, I have accumulated a few more including some quilting books too.

Posts about some of my other book additions are here, here, and here. In addition, I didn't write about receiving the Colette Sewing Handbook as a birthday present.

Today, I'm writing about the last three garment sewing books that have joined my collection:

Vogue Sewing Book, 1982 edition - My sister bought this for me from a library book sale. It's not as cute and kitschy as other sewing books from the other pattern companies, but it is very comprehensive. I recently used their instructions to create a blanket-stitched thread loop to corral a button on the back of a blouse.

The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide To Altering Patterns, 2005 (Also published earlier as The Perfect Fit, 1987, as part of the Singer Reference Library*) - This book is very comprehensive and easy to understand with clear pictures and explanations. You may have heard of this book, it is highly recommended by many sewing bloggers. However, when I tried to find my own copy I found it difficult to track down which one they were talking about.

So, in order that you won't have to go through what I did: the book was published twice, once as part of the Singer Reference Library series of sewing instruction books and again separately on its own with no reference to Singer. However, it is the same exact book (see below), they even share the same cover image.

Sewing Pants That Fit, 1989, part of the Singer Reference Library - This one was a bonus when it was advertised on Alibris.com for only .99 cents! I had only meant to buy the book above but how could I resist one specifically on pants, especially since I have FIVE pairs of pants on my To Do sewing list.

Hopefully, I can keep this "sewing book problem" down a bit. I still want the English language versions of all three Drape Drape books but I could settle for access to them through a loan or a library. I have not found a store that carries them. Basically, I would just like to riffle though the actual books myself. Tempted to see if my part-time job would special order them as they have carried a few other Japanese sewing books: Cut-Up Couture, Shape Shape, I Am Cute Dresses, and Simple Modern Sewing.

UPDATE: Just found another printing of The Perfect Fit with a new updated cover, but it still has the same old photos. Basically, if the sewing book is called "The Perfect Fit", it is probably this same book.  

 
*The Singer Sewing Reference Library - I already own one book from this series of hardcover books so I already knew how clear and concise the instructions would be. I highly recommend this series.

Stop, Rewind, Start Again...

I know I said I wasn't going to write about on-going sewing projects here and would just post when they were finished objects? Well, I realized if I did that, then what would I write on this here blog? So this is what's going on in my sewing nook this week:


Simplicity 4111 + New Look 6836 =

• A few weeks ago, I found I didn't have enough fabric for the New Look 6836 "milk-maid" blouse but did have enough for the Built By Wendy Simplicity 4111 pattern. Even though, I bought the New Look after reading bad reviews of the BBW one, I decided to do a pattern mash-up of the two in order to still get the blouse I envisioned making two years ago. The Simplicity 4111 reviews that led me to select another pattern all mentioned the extremely low neckline and too-short bodice. The good things about this pattern are that the back is only one piece and the sleeves are not as full, both welcome changes that will save fabric. Out of the four - five essential pattern pieces, I will be using almost all of the ones from the BBW shirt except I will be using a modified front bodice and creating the same bodice details as the New Look pattern.
  
  I have already morphed the two bodice patterns into a new front bodice piece that gets cut on the fold. I will cut out and construct a muslin before the weekend, when I hope to begin on the real shirt.

Vogue 9745, Vogue 1992, Colette Clover, Built By Wendy Sew U

• Moving on to pants. I will first compare the crotch curves*(just like Dixie did here) of my best fitting RTW pants to the pants patterns I want to make from my stash. Already, I have noticed a consistent use of the same curve shape and angle among two Vogue patterns I have and the same thing with two McCall's. In both situation, only slight alterations were made to the length or angle.
  
  Using the shape from the RTW pants I will create a new pant pattern incorporating the new c-curve and see if the resulting muslin recreates the same fit. Then, I can just run off pants willy-nilly. I have six pairs in my plan I would like to make this year. If the real problem in fitting pants is finding the right c-length, c-depth and c-width for your particular body then; hopefully, this will be my answer.
  

*Ewww, from now on this will be referred to as the c-curve on this blog. ;)

3. Boxy Blouse - McCall's 4632

A surprise project that wasn't even on my plan, but I had the fabric and it was SO easy.

Pattern: McCall's 4632 (1989)


Pattern Description: Loose, geometric top with gathered shoulder detail. Made View F.
Pattern Sizing: Medium (sizes 14 and 16)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It has a simple shape, yet is still interesting and was an extremely easy and fast sew.

Fabric Used: Oyster pearl -colored twill with a slight sheen and matching thread, both from my stash (age unknown).




Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The only problem with this top is that it was too long and too wide. The width makes sense because this 1989 pattern calls for 1/2" shoulder pads, which I did not use. I ended up taking two inches off the length and two inches from EACH side, four inches total off the width. All of the seam allowances were finished because this fabric shed like crazy.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! I will definitely make this in some silkier and lighter fabrics. I will probably also make it into a dress.


A Shabd top and two by Hound Designs
Conclusion: I have a top that resembles my inspiration pics (made of finer and drapier fabrics) but not one penny was spent.

Images: my own photos (3), Shabd, Hound Design (2)

Early Wardrobe Glitch Revealed (Updated)

That didn't take long did it?

Saturday, I was starting on one of the 12 In 2012 projects. As I lay out the pattern pieces I realized I was running out of fabric. I have had this particular fabric paired with this pattern, New Look 6836, for years! The red fabric had been purchased for something else and a few years ago I realized I'd rather use it for this top, a replacement for that similar Built By Wendy Simplicity pattern that caused some fitting problems on the sewing blogs. For all this time, I assumed I made sure I had enough fabric to switch patterns. Well...I didn't!


Pattern substitutions as of 2.22.2012

So, with this example in mind, I am measuring all of my fabric to see exactly how much I have of each. Unfortunately, that means my plan above might need to be changed. I think I have a replacement for the red fabric but I'm moving onto another project on the board in the mean time. Luckily, my most recent fabrics are still paired with their original projects and should be fine.

Update: It wasn't as bad as I thought. I can still make that project with some alterations, notably the length and width of the sleeves. Best of all, my other fabrics DO match or exceed the yardage needed for each project. Whew!! There have been some pattern choice changes and substitutions but for other reasons besides not having enough fabric.

Handmade Wardrobe Solutions

On my last post, commenters Faye and Elaray made a point that by looking at those garments I could figure out my style; however, that only applies to my handmade clothes. Unfortunately, they do not represent a complete analysis of my style, that you can find on my Pinterest. If I had the means and the time I would love to own more elaborate, colorful, and detailed clothing. However, I'm just not willing to put in the time to make those sorts of items, nor have I the means to afford the quality of materials I would love to use. But, isn't that the case for us all?


12 in 2012 plan in progress* click image to see bigger
I am now participating in Su Sews So-So's 12 In 2012 project. In the last two years I have made an average of 8 garments a year. Well, this year I'm pushing that to 12 total. I also decided that I'm not going to tell you what is coming up next or try to stick to a rigid plan (like I could?!)

However, I am showing you an overview of the twelve-plus projects I would LIKE to finish this year. I will post about them as they are completed. One project you have already seen and two are in slow progress.

Best thing (or worse)? All of this fabric (including the non-assigned ones at the bottom) is already in my stash! **As you can imagine, this means NO new fabric for quite a while.

Those fabrics shown at the bottom of my 2012 plan represent the other fabrics in my stash of which I have enough yardage to make something. There is thin-wale black corduroy, cream twill, deep purple linen, a slightly iridescent cross-weave linen in green and lilac, a blue Flea Market Fancy floral, a lilac jacquard and a pale green satin brocade. One of these days, I'll find projects for these.

Surprisingly, this whole plan falls in perfectly with a recent post on Coletterie, where Sarai writes about ways to use the fabric that you already own. I am following ideas 1, 2, 4, and 5 and trying to initiate #3.

*No, I haven't bought that new Vogue 8787 pattern yet. It looks promising but I'm waiting to see some reviews on patternreview.com first, so those two fabrics/dresses are still on back burner.