Working Slow But Steady...

Hey, sorry I don't have any real sewing content for you. My work schedule is no longer as conducive to all-day cutting and sewing as unemployment was. Ha!

Here is what I've been up to lately:

Cut into my turquoise denim for my first "proper" Grainline Moss. Hopefully, will do some stitching later today.

Binge watched episodes of the In-Betweeners, Rev., and more ManStrokeWoman on Hulu for free.

I rediscovered a favorite 'knock-around' dress from the Gap in storage and will be making it into a pattern so I can copy it. It's a simple sleeveless, almost racer-back, A-line polka dot dress that I wore all the time. Because of the triangle shape it still generally fits but is a bit tight in the bust.

I treated myself to the Grainline Maritime shorts pattern with my first paycheck! I wanted to get it before the price goes up when the new Grainline shop is launched. Thanks Jen for giving us a heads up on the upcoming price change!

Sadly, I had to buy two navy blue t-shirts for work. Yup, I bought fast-fashion. These two shirts from Old Navy for a total of $8 were a lot cheaper (and less time-consuming) than making my own when interlock from JoAnn or Hancock was $8 a yard without a coupon.

Tomorrow, I will be driving to Kitty Hawk, NC to spend a day at the beach. I'm not really a beach girl but getting away, seeing friends, and maybe I'll find a cool fabric store along the way. Anyone have a suggestion?

Have a great holiday weekend and when I return I'll give you a post on an ongoing project for fall (related to that last Mad Men post) and an inventory of all my PDF patterns. Most of them were free so it will be an opportunity for all of you to enlarge your pattern stashes too. We all need that, right?

Summer Walking Shorts - Vogue 2532

Pattern: Vogue 2532 c. 2001

Pattern Description: Shorts, micro-mini, above mid-knee, below mid-knee or straight-legged pants have waistband, carriers, in-seam pockets and mock-fly zipper. A,B,C,D: side slits and stitched hems. E: cuffs. Purchased top and belt. I made the above mid-knee view.

Pattern Sizing: (12-14-16) I chose a size 16 which actually did match my measurements and the finished garment measurements were just right.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, mostly. However, I did not construct the side slits and did a blind hem instead of the visible one they suggest.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a pair of slim walking shorts, the opposite of my almost skirt-like pair. I also learned a new faux fly zipper technique that I will be using again which resulted in my best looking zip ever, exterior and interior. The only thing I didn't like was that they are too long waisted. However, that could have been fixed if I had made a muslin.

Fabric Used: A 44/45" madras cotton print FREE from the VA/DC/MD blogger swap, 7" Robin zipper in Lead Blue, thread, fusible knit interfacing, and a snap closure.

Isn't that a gorgeous inside zipper view?

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?: I did not mean to make any alterations but when it got to making the side slits I decided to just make a simple straight hem. I think because the pattern was specifically drafted for those slits is why I had to ease the hem around and use steam to shrink the puckers. I really liked the zipper application, it was a different way to do a faux fly, worked smoothly, and looks great.

For the waistband I decided to forgo the pattern instructions to trim the corner of the seam allowance at an angle and instead followed this great Perfect Corners on Waistbands tutorial from Lisa G. at Notes From a Mad Housewife instead. And yes, they turned out perfect!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes. 

Conclusion: I adore this fabric, it's a mystery but it has such a soft yet firm hand I would not be surprised if this were my first silk/cotton mix. Luckily, I have enough left to make a top from next summer. Too bad that the front crotch length was too long. If only I had checked more closely. I could possibly take off the waistband and replace it after cutting one inch or so from the top of the shorts if I also shorten the zipper from the top by an inch. I may* do that next summer, this year I'll just pretend I meant to make high-waisted shorts.

Images: My own, McCall Patterns

*knowing me, probably NOT.

VA/DC/MD Blogger Meetup - Part 2

Here are the goodies that I brought home from the meetup, along with a roll of 18" wide tracing paper.

Fabric

1. Red black print Lycra knit 1' 26", 2. Brown plaid wool and lining 30" each,
3. blue static print polyester 3',  4. 100% wool tweed coating detail,
5. Blueish-green double knit - 2' 10", 6. Cotton Madras plaid 2' 20"

1 2/3 yards red Lycra knit in a chain link fence print

30" brown wool plaid with 30" Bemberg lining - just enough to make a lined skirt!

3 yards blue, pale yellow, black, green, and cream polyester print

3 yards navy, brown, rust, white, blue, and red color-flecked wool tweed coating

2 yards blueish-green double knit

2 yards green, purple, orange, and khaki madras plaid

 Patterns

Simplicity 5289, Vogue 2747, Vogue 8652

  Vogue 8606, Vogue 2002, Vogue 1654

Vogue 2453, Vogue 1649, Vogue 1540

I love Vogue Designer patterns and I made out like a Bandit! Check it out: DKNY, Claire Shaeffer, Calvin Klein, Geoffrey Beene, Donna Karan, Mariot Chanet, and Claude Montana!

So, yeah, no fabric shopping or pattern sales for me any time soon.

Fabric images created with fd's Flickr Toys

Handmade Wardrobe Solutions

On my last post, commenters Faye and Elaray made a point that by looking at those garments I could figure out my style; however, that only applies to my handmade clothes. Unfortunately, they do not represent a complete analysis of my style, that you can find on my Pinterest. If I had the means and the time I would love to own more elaborate, colorful, and detailed clothing. However, I'm just not willing to put in the time to make those sorts of items, nor have I the means to afford the quality of materials I would love to use. But, isn't that the case for us all?


12 in 2012 plan in progress* click image to see bigger
I am now participating in Su Sews So-So's 12 In 2012 project. In the last two years I have made an average of 8 garments a year. Well, this year I'm pushing that to 12 total. I also decided that I'm not going to tell you what is coming up next or try to stick to a rigid plan (like I could?!)

However, I am showing you an overview of the twelve-plus projects I would LIKE to finish this year. I will post about them as they are completed. One project you have already seen and two are in slow progress.

Best thing (or worse)? All of this fabric (including the non-assigned ones at the bottom) is already in my stash! **As you can imagine, this means NO new fabric for quite a while.

Those fabrics shown at the bottom of my 2012 plan represent the other fabrics in my stash of which I have enough yardage to make something. There is thin-wale black corduroy, cream twill, deep purple linen, a slightly iridescent cross-weave linen in green and lilac, a blue Flea Market Fancy floral, a lilac jacquard and a pale green satin brocade. One of these days, I'll find projects for these.

Surprisingly, this whole plan falls in perfectly with a recent post on Coletterie, where Sarai writes about ways to use the fabric that you already own. I am following ideas 1, 2, 4, and 5 and trying to initiate #3.

*No, I haven't bought that new Vogue 8787 pattern yet. It looks promising but I'm waiting to see some reviews on patternreview.com first, so those two fabrics/dresses are still on back burner.

Handmade Wardrobe Overview

The past few years haven't really been that bad sewing-wise. Well, not as bad as I thought. Here are the things I have made (AND still wearing) in the past three years. Not bad. Let's see what these twenty-three pieces can tell me about what I sew for myself.

Eight tops

Eight dresses

Six skirts or shorts

One topper

One thing, I rarely make buttonholes and here's proof, the only item to have them is the red vintage Butterick top that buttons up the back. Also there are only five zippers among all twenty-three garments! I seem to prefer elastic, belts, wide neck openings, and stretch fabrics as opposed to conventional fasteners. Therefore, my wardrobe primarily consists of slip-over-the-head tops and dresses. Imagine if you couldn't use any buttons or zippers as fastenings? Well, it would be no problem for me.

My favorite colors (or the colors available to me locally at Hancock and Jo-Ann) are purple, red, and neutrals of black, grey, off-white, and brown. I also like to use patterns, but I have to be crazy about them and they must include favorite colors like red, purple, and orange.

The pattern breakdown reveals which pattern companies I like to work with and that offer things I'd wear: Simplicity for five items, Butterick has four, New Look and Colette Patterns supplied three each, McCalls and the Built By Wendy Sew U book two each, and Vogue, Pattern Runway, BurdaStyle, and SewStylish magazine are all represented with one each.

The groups also show what is missing from my wardrobe, well at least, my handmade wardrobe.

Looking at my wardrobe, it would seem I don't like setting in sleeves. All of my tops and dresses are either sleeveless or the sleeves are cut-on or raglan. I don't think I even have a pattern for a simple collarless top pattern with set-in sleeves. It seems raglan-sleeved Simplicity 3835 has been my go-to top pattern. I guess I need to franken-pattern something together.

I need more knit tops, hopefully in multi-color stripes so they can go with almost any skirt or pant in my wardrobe. However, good striped fabrics are NOT to be found locally, I will have to order those online.

In the last ten years, I have not sewn pants. In high school I had no problem with them and made at least five pairs, some from pretty intricate Vogue designer patterns. However, now I seem to be timid about them even though I definitely need more, some structured, some loose and in prints and colors that are not black. I never used to worry much about the fit (especially not the cr*tch) until this past year living vicariously through the trials of other sewists.

It also wouldn't hurt to have more skirts, in a variety of styles and lengths. These I also want in colorful prints, stripes, and checks, not solids.

Next post I will reveal what I mean to do about this.

Sorbetto Tank Top - Colette Patterns

Pattern: Colette Patterns Sorbetto Top (free!)

Pattern Description: Tank top with center box pleat detail

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 2 -20, I made a size 4 tapering out to an 8 at the hips

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Well, first of all I liked that the pattern was a free download! I also liked the simple shape and the fact that it could be used to draft different variations. It was quick to make, only used 1 1/2 yards of fabric, and needed no fastenings. What I disliked was the alterations I had to make for it to fit me without gaping.

Fabric Used: A 100% cotton Fruit Spots print by Jo-Ann Fabrics and Wrights 1/2" wide single fold bias tape in Stone Blue (an almost perfect match).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I originally made a size 6 at the shoulders and armholes and tapered the pattern to a 10 at the hem but after wearing it once realized it was way too big at the neckline and gaping at the underarms.

I took it apart and recut the pieces in a size 4 at top tapering out to an 8 at the hips. It seems my shoulders and upper chest area were too narrow for the pattern as is so I took in the top of the pleat a bit more to eliminate the gaping there.The length of the upper chest was too long so I cut the shoulder seams to the size 2 on the pattern. Then because the shorter straps caused the underarm seams to rise I scooped out the underarm 1/4" and tapered up. I made the changes to the pattern by tracing each fabric piece with every change I made.

After wearing it again, I think I will scoop out the underarm another 1/4".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I actually have a beautiful Swiss dot print chosen for another one. Now that I have a custom pattern prepared it should be lovely, I might even add wavy cap sleeves as the new fabric calls out for feminine details. I highly recommend preparing a muslin.

Conclusion: A very comfortable top that could possibly be made in an hour (if you're not me!).

What Came Before...

My sewing machine is pretty old because it is now 15 years old (as old as my car too!) It is a Babylock BL2100. I actually bought another brand first, got it home, stitched on it, didn't like it, took it back the next day and bought this one, which was a lesser name brand and came with less frills and attachments. However, it has served me well.

The funny thing is that I didn't try to buy a machine when I was working at Cloth World (a precursor to Jo-Anns) for the summers during college. With an employee discount I could have made out well. Oh, well...

Visiting my dad for his 75th birthday a few weeks ago we went on our usual adventures in various thrift stores. And look what I found on Warwick Blvd. Note: I did not buy this but enjoy the sewing machine pics anyway.

Singer Automatic 319 swing-needle machine (1954?)

This machine is a straight stitch machine with automatic zig-zag. It is called a swing arm machines because the zig-zag needle bar pivots from the top. I have since found this machine, either alone or with all its attachments priced on eBay, Craigslist, etc. for $150, $500, up to $1,500. This all could have been mine for a measly $50. Wow.





The complete manual (which can be seen in full here.) Even though this manual says 306, Internet research seems to identify this machine as the 319 instead.



These are the stitch levers that allow you to choose different styles of stitching. I used the existence of these to identify this machine as the 319 model.

More attachments and feet, see the ruffler in there?


Those two drawers in the wooden cabinet held all the equipment for the machine.

Last, but not least...



The buttonhole attachment. These things fascinate me, so how do they work?

I went to Jo-Anns...

and came home with 155 patterns.

Free.

No, I did NOT steal them from Jo-Anns but received them out of the back seat of a local reader's car! This lovely woman; Pat, contacted me a few weeks ago after I posted about my recent pattern splurge. She had lucked out on purchasing six boxes of patterns at a yard sale (all for $10!) and now desperately wanted the rest of them out of her house in order to declutter. We've all been there, right?

She had a feeling I might want them or would know what to do with them, so we arranged to meet at Jo-Ann's (tempting fate, right?) to do the exchange and talk sewing.

THANKS PATRICIA!!!!!

After I got home that night, I went through them pretty quickly to pick the ones that I wanted, at first sight. I was amazed at how many Vogue patterns there were (59!) and how many of these patterns were untouched; about 95%.

Right now, I'm just letting it all absorb in. Obviously, I don't want to keep all of them either. I found 15 that I want to keep (including one I'll write about later). So, there may be some give-aways or they may all end up in my little, forgotten Etsy shop, DragonFly. All I have done up to this point is sort them out according to pattern brand:

• Burda = 10
• Butterick = 18
• McCalls = 21
• Simplicity = 12
• Style = 2
• Vogue = 59!

They also range in age from mid-1970s to the late 1990's. Believe me, I will definitely post the scary ones from the 1980s. More pictures are available on Flickr and if you see anything you must have, just let me know.

Lookee what I got for $8.50!

Did you buy any $.99 patterns at Jo-Ann's or Hancock's this past weekend?

I did!

Which is amazing because I haven't been in the mood to buy patterns in a LONG time, even when they're only $.99. I just didn't feel I liked sewing enough or had enough motivation to justify the buying of more patterns that might just sit around unmade mocking me. So I guess I'm feeling better about sewing, huh?

I came home with 3 Butterick and 5 Simplicity. Oh, and two vintage ones sneaked in when my Dad and I did the circuit of thrift stores in Newport News this weekend. Here are my lovelies:


Butterick 5415, Butterick 5259, Butterick 5429


Simplicity 2404, Simplicity 2587, Simplicity 2560


Simplicity 2591, Simplicity 2406

Oldies but Goodies:


Simplicity 6034, McCall's 6786

I love how 1930s-40s that 1973 pattern looks and I actually owned the McCall's one when I was in college. I made that shirt in an aubergine rayon challis. I bought it this time ($.25) for the pants.

P.S. The links under the new patterns take you to their individual pages on PatternReview.com.

Another Win for McCall Patterns!

Melissa alerted me to the fact that all of the McCall Pattern sites (Butterick, McCall's, Vogue) have online clearance sections. Which means you can see which patterns were not big sellers and are about to become scarce and go out-of-print. You can also see what patterns weren't particularly popular and believe me, I recognized a few.

Why? Well, because there were some patterns my fellow sewist-bloggers/patternreview.com-users had problems with and then blogged about.

So when that next great pattern sale comes up you can get off your butt and to a store to get that pattern you keep thinking about but have not bought yet before it disappears forever (or makes itself very hard to come by).

Every time I have to look at that Simplicity site, I realize what a great job these guys have done, probably in part because they were able to learn from the mistakes that the Simplicity Creative Group made. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't just Google and find links to sewing blogs complaining about Simplicity's new interface and worked from there.

Good job, McCall Patterns!!!

More of This is What I Need

First, I saw this cute capelet at Floating World Views, it's a rendition of Burda 8173*.

Then I saw this lovely jacket from Anthropologie:

Catalina Bolero, $120

And now I see this:

Lady Capelet jacket

a perfect little mash-up, right?

Where do you think I found it? No, not Anthropologie, though it definitely has that feel. No, this little gem is available at Forever 21! Yes. For only $35.

So I guess I need a charcoal gray wool capelet/jacket thingy in my wardrobe for fall.

Yeah, I can dig it.

*This is a discontinued Burda pattern, but Butterick 5032 is very similar, just eliminate the collar. I luckily already own this vintage Butterick pattern with it's own cape.