Wedding Guest Dress: Finalizing Details

Vogue 2745

Last week, I placed one important order and one free and fun order for fabric swatches. To be completely honest, of course both orders were fun...they were for FABRIC!!

I need to finalize fabric for my dress project, Vogue 2745, both view A and B are to be worn this coming June 10. View A will be in Mood Fabrics' Kelly Green silk crepe de chine (above), but the slip could be made from several different fabrics.

Side note, before moving on to Vogue 2745, I was considering making New Look 6244 but with a different slip (all pics of its slip made up looked shapeless and badly fitted, an obvious fault of the drafted pattern). Instead I was going to use Butterick 6031 from my stash, which I wanted to make regardless, but never could find the right fabric. From my last Emma One Sock swatch order I knew the venezia 4-way jersey lining was the ideal fabric but I was not willing to sew a $22 slip, which didn't already include the cost of several yards of two different widths of lace, elastic, and the strap hardware.

However, the pattern suggested tricot and a Google search brought me to Fabric.com and their selection of 40 and 70 denier tricots. While I have now switched to using Vogue 2745, the site provided me with some other suggested fabric possibilities so I ordered a yard of the 70 denier tricot in Oat (will use it for skirt lining) and swatches (8" square!) of a China silk in Silver, charmeuse in Cappuccino, stretch charmeuse in Silver, and a crepe de chine in Purple, all made of polyester.

Results: I love the tricot, the texture is exactly as I expected from the website image. I now wish I had ordered a less neutral color but I can immediately use this as lining for a current skirt. I will definitely order some for use with Butterick 6031 in the future.

70 denier tricky in Oat

The China silk I was sent would not work for the slinky slip I was envisioning but would make crisp garment linings. Both charmeuse swatches were lovely but I preferred the feel of the non-stretch one, the color was gorgeous, and it played off my skin tone very well.

Charmeuse and "China silk"

When ordering the polyester crepe de chine, I had secretly hoped I might use it instead of the far more expensive Mood silk but is not at all the same. This crepe de chine felt more like a simple crepe to me with that spongy pebbled feel, it was the same on both sides, it had no sheen, and was also not opaque. I am 90% sure I received the wrong fabric; however, as you can see above it is dated the day it was packaged and had three separate labels claiming it is crepe de chine. Regardless, it doesn't come in the desired green.

Crepe or crepe de chine, see what I mean?

From Emma One Sock, I ordered swatches of their Emerald silk crepe de chine (since the price is similar to that of Mood), an organic cotton double gauze in Cocoa Dots, a poly rayon sweater knit in Wine, a rayon blend ponte (no poly!) in Charcoal, and finally some 100% silk habotai (China silk) in Teal for comparison to the polyester one coming from Fabric.com.

The silk types in white, the colors both in CDC

Results: The Emma One Sock crepe de chine was nice but not the same as Moods in weight, drape, or sheen. Or perhaps I've just become very fond of my bedraggled little swatch. (It looks that way because I wanted to see how it would change if hand washed. The jury is still out on that.)

Their China silk (100% silk) is obviously superior to the poly one but still drastically different than what I expected. Its soft delicacy intimidated me, no way would I be attempting my slip in that since I have enough work coming with the main dress being silk. In addition, it's price along with fabric for the main dress would cost more than I have ever paid for a RTW dress!

Check out that shimmer!

The ponte was luscious (and will be tested for pilling), the sweater knit lush, and the double gauze not exactly what I expected. Perhaps I need to experience a larger swatch to understand all the web love for it?

UPDATE: After all that, I went a WHOLE other way! In my last post, I mentioned how the slip could be worn as a dress on it's own? Well, I layered my Mood swatch over the cappuccino charmeuse one and decided I didn't want two solid colored bias dresses that I would rarely wear; one because it was silk (duh!) and the other because the color though lovely wouldn't be that practical to wear. Once I started thinking of prints and something that could be worn under the green crepe de chine, two fabrics immediately sprung to mind, inexpensive, locally available, and both of which I could have bought months ago! Two multi-colored polyesters from, of all places, Jo-Ann Fabrics and designs I had been fantasizing over for months but couldn't justify with my existing stash and queue of projects. It just happened they were on sale and I came home with the one that worked with the main dress fabric the most, in a lovely mix of colors which will also influence my choice of accessories.

 

So, which one do you think I picked?

If you're interested in a peek at the fabrics, my inspirations for the final outfit styling, and the colored(!) shoe possibilities, check out my Wedding Guest Dress Pinterest board.

Links:
Surprise! Actually Buying Fabric With a Purpose!

A Change To The Wedding Guest Dress

Images: my own, Jo-Ann Stores, LLC

3.20.2014 - General Update

What is going on now:

• My Crepe Suzette Clutch is done and I am loving it so much! Photos and review upcoming.

Simplicity 6145

• Simplicity 6145 muslin stitched up as a top - must cut larger size from waist down to accommodate bottom half and I have some small sleeve issues to deal with. Note: I cannot stand sewing slippery polyester fabric!!!
  
• Simplicity 5289 double knit dress cut out and all darts have been thread traced.
  
• Two different types of waistbands cut out for Grainline Moss muslin 3.
  
• Zippers and buttons acquired for all Spring 2014 wardrobe patterns. The buttons were all found in my stash and zippers only cost $4.
  
• Stepped into the Gap and feel in love with quality and fit of their Ponte blazer in Heather Blue ($88). A ponte blazer is a great idea, you should definitely go check it out. The sweatshirt-gray version was on sale for $47 in the store.
  
• On hold off-and-on with a service provider today for three hours, was getting close to conclusion when my phone died!!! Got back in line a few hours later and after being on hold another hour found out they could not do what I needed done. Arrrrgggghhhh.
  
• Checked out from the library copies of Sewing Lingerie and Sewing with Knits, two other volumes of the Singer Reference Library series. Highly recommend them and will probably search for a used copy of both. Already own two others from this series that I found for 99 cents each at Alibris.com.

Don't You Love Saturdays? I Do.

I haven't seen much writing about this line, so here goes.

Have you seen Kate Spades' more affordable new venture, Saturday? It's a unique retail and social media strategy, each Saturday they release online another "collection" of a hundred or so new pieces. Some of these are completely new items while others are their staple clothing designs that continue from one "collection" to the next done up in new colors, fabrics, and patterns. Their goal is to keep customers engaged and coming back.

These are basics with a clean design and unique details that keep them from being boring. Designs that would make for a great wardrobe on their own made up in different types of fabrics, colors, and prints. The fabrics range from graphic black & white designs, brightly colored solids, wild oversized florals, pixelated prints, photographic prints, painterly abstracts, to Spirographic circles.

These multi-category collections include everything: clothes, shoes, accessories, handbags, tech accessories, and even travel storage pieces. These clothes are perfect for weekends and going on vacation. The Saturday line is meant as the more casual and lower-priced complement to Spade's namesake line. Think of this as fun clothing for purely fun times.

There is one particular dress I would love to have this summer, the Let Loose Dress:

A gathered tunic dress with cap sleeves, 1/2" elasticized back hem, removable self-tie belt, and hook-and-eye back zip closure. Made in a stretch poplin of 97% cotton with 3% Spandex. As seen below, this belt can be worn around the entire dress or just laced through the slits and tied either to the front or to the back.

Let Loose Dress $170

DIY version:

I found a few patterns that could be easily altered to make a version of this dress; Simplicity 1620 view A, Butterick 5356, view B lengthened into a dress, and probably the best choice of the bunch, Simplicity 2147*, view B. A knit version could also be made with a few alterations to Kwik Sew 3559.

Simplicity 1620 - Butterick 5356 - Simplicity 2147

These three already share the mid-chest yoke, cut-on sleeves, and gathered body of the Saturday dress. Alterations that will need to be done to all are:

• Slash and spread the width of the body portion to create fullness and allow for more gathers.
• If the pattern has a straight or yoke-less back, alter the pattern piece to mimic the front.
• If neckline is large enough, you can omit the zipper completely.
• Create slits at the side seams to allow for a 1 - 2 1/2 inch wide belt.
• Place 1/2 inch elastic in the back hem only. 

Images: Kate Spade Saturday

*There is a fabulous version of Simplicity 2147 here by Jenni of Simple Beans.

Retro From Head To Toes

Seychelles Footwear, for all the retro loving girls out there. I've known of this company for years, seen their name around, but never really checked out their shoe collections. Since I mentioned them in my post about the costumes of the Muppet Movie I had to find the link to their site. What I found was a great collection of modern and gorgeous vintage-inspired shoes whose prices range from $70 to $130*, which is much cheaper than similar styles from Anthropologie. Because I prefer vintage style here are my favorites from their latest collection:

Backspace Hamburg

ClueCarriage

All Dressed Up


Images: Seychelles Shoes
* Their boots price in the $120 to $330 range.

Vintage Patterns In Etsy Shop!

I just entered a few of my vintage patterns into Metamorphpursuit, my shop on Etsy. There are a few skirt patterns, a sheath dress, a perfect little Jackie Kennedy/Oleg Cassini-inspired suit, and a set of women's pajamas from the 1940s. You won't believe the low prices!

Please go and check them out here.

The BETTER Jo-Ann

In Richmond, we have two Jo-Ann stores at our disposal. There is the original store, #1479 which is 7 miles from my house and the new store, #2141, which is 14 miles in a different county. Here is this weekend's story:

I cut out the dress from Simplicity 2406 and was about to cut out the shorts from Vogue 2833 when I realized that 1) the dress sash was not included in the fabric requirements but separately listed at the bottom and 2) Since I bought the fabric before I narrowed down the three possible shorts patterns I didn't have enough for this pattern's pair.

I set out for the original Jo-Ann in Westland Shopping Center. Of course, I did go during the Columbus Day sale and it was towards the end of the day but I was still shocked that all of the brown heathered suiting was gone. It was around 4:45 and the store would close at 6. On a whim I decided to try to beat the new store's 6 PM closing time. So I got on the road, hoping to arrive at the shop at least 10 minutes before closing, enough time since I knew exactly what I wanted. I made it there at 5:50 only to see the sign outside said that this Jo-Ann store closes at 7 PM on Sundays!!!

They had an entire bolt of the fabric I needed so I got a yard cut. No problem. Then I looked around the store and saw how many ways the newer store surpassed the original.

For example:

• The sad trimming aisle at the original store is two large aisles at this store;


• the clearance tables at the new store have actual fabric that was once on the sale floor while the clearance at the original is full of mystery fiber fabrics that I never saw on the sales floor before.


• The original store never got that gorgeous silk/cotton voile print that Patty from Snug Bug used in her maxi dress. Yes, that gorgeous fabric came from Jo-Ann?!


• They already had the new Simplicity pattern collection (not on the web site yet) in the drawers and the books on the table.

In general, the new store just has more sewing stuff than the other store. Even though half the store is still crafts-related you never get the feeling that the fabric side is only for quilt making and making mysterious fleece objects. There are far more garment fabrics represented.

Oh, and the best thing; they had two copies of Tomoko Nakamichi's Pattern Magic 2, the English version for only $25.00! No special ordering required.

There is no contest, the Midlothian Turnpike Jo-Ann store #2141 is my now my preferred store and is totally worth driving twice the distance to get there.

Vintage Sewing Machine For Sale!

UPDATE: This machine has been sold! Thanks, Linda.

A friend is trying to sell his late mother's beauty of a machine. It is an Italian Necchi BU made of cast iron and chrome. This particular model was manufactured between 1948 and 1953. The manual he has is dated 1951. Isn't it lovely?

We believe that all the parts and attachments are still there. His mother kept her sewing materials tidy. There were also some fabulous vintage patterns that he gifted to me and some will eventually show up in my Etsy store when I reopen. In the mean time here is a link to the Ruth Harvey Collection on Flickr.

The machine is currently housed in the beautiful sewing cabinet shown below. I know that you can separate these types of machines and still use them. I wish I had a good closeup of those Art Deco-like drawer handles.

* There is a great review at Zigzaggers.com describing the machine and its functions.

* There is also a Vintage Necchi Yahoo Group here.

I wish I could keep it but I do not have the space and know I would never use it. I have two machines already.

The seller does not have a set price, but will accept the best offer. The machine is here near Richmond, Virginia. I sent out feelers to the local sewing bloggers I know and they were not able to take it. If you are near Virginia or willing to travel here, this might be the machine for you! Just comment on this post and I will contact you. Thanks!

Here's a picture of a similar machine without the cabinet.

Images: Top three are mine, last one from A Sewing Life blog

Inspiration For Even More Clothes

From Talbot's of all places!

Remember my gray gathered skirt? Well, I couldn't handle that elastic waist, the skirt was too full and the gathering of all that fabric made my waist look the same size as my hips. So I took the elastic out and was going to construct a waistband for it. However, now I think arranging the skirt into big tucks like these may be the way to handle all that mass.





This picture is the one that caught my eye. I have already made two shirts very similar to this so I think I'll make a few more with this neck detail instead of the gathered neckline. I also love the jewel-like color...I need more color in my wardrobe, at least up around my face.








I love this outfit completely, especially the chunky necklace (also seen above)! Next time I find a great patterned, medium-weight fabric I will try to make this. Look familiar? Yes, I will use my still unused coat pattern but of course that first one still needs to be made.


Of course, all of these ideas are for AFTER I finish the outfits in this post, my 2010-2011 wardrobe.

Images: Talbots.com

Get Your Holiday Cheer On!

How about doing it in a new dress you made yourself? Here are some lovelies available at the Dragonfly- Metamorphpursuit shop on Etsy. Why not try one of these?

Vogue 1110 SOLD
An Emanuel Ungaro design

Style 2005 $4

Vogue 2065 $5
A Badgley Mischka design



And here is a two-for-one deal, two patterns for only $8:


Vogue 1285
A Scaasi design


Vogue 9971