Stitching The Pastille!

In honor of The Colette Sewing Handbook showing up in stores and mailboxes a bit earlier than expected (NOW!) I am going to let you in on my time constructing one of the new dress patterns in the book. In fact, it just happens to be the dress on the front cover. Enjoy the journey.

Part 1

In the spring, I responded to a request from Sarai of Colette Patterns for pattern testers. I had tested the Oolong dress for her before. This time I was offered two patterns from her upcoming book, The Colette Sewing Handbook. Licorice, a loose shift-like dress with sash and draped collar and Pastille, a fitted sheath dress with a modified sweetheart neckline and petal-like cap sleeves.

While I liked both designs, Pastille called out to me because I could see it fulfilling an important purpose in my wardrobe. I saw it as a potential job interview dress. Professional, non-fussy, classic, but with a non-corporate vintage edge. Styled with a cool vintage enamel brooch this dress would be great in my wardrobe, pretty and feminine enough for a dinner date but also appropriate for more serious occasions.

I will be posting a traditional review of this dress (see the teaser at left) later but I wanted to write in more detail about what I learned while making it. As it turns out I found myself trying out some new techniques when constructing my version of the Pastille dress.


My new pattern weights

My first move was to go to Home Depot and buy some metal washers. These would be my new pattern weights instead of straight pins. At first, I only saw the small ones that weighed nothing but eventually I found the heavy steel/zinc 5/8" size which were perfect. I now have 14 of them at only $.46 each! They work wonderfully in holding down your fabric and I've already used them on stretchy Lycra knits. In addition, re-positioning of the pattern is now quick and easy.

The second new thing I did was use clear tape to help out my dart making abilities. I have never been able to sew a straight dart, they always veer off course and end up where they're not meant to end. This time I replicated the dart lines from the pattern using a straight piece of tape instead of straight pins. Then I could just sew along the edge of the tape. So fabulous and my darts for this project were perfect.

Then I used my new friend (adhesive tape) to mark the three horizontal pleats along the bottom half of the skirt. The instructions say to thread trace the lines but I first wanted to make sure my lines were straight. I didn't have any fabric markers that would show up on this fabric so I used my design ruler and laid tape exactly where the lines were needed. With two contrasting colors of thread I then hand basted across the three skirt pieces right next to the edge of the tape, resulting in perfectly straight lines of stitching. For maximum visibility, I used yellow and orange thread to mark the different rows and I loved the resulting contrast on the dark gray fabric. Perhaps I'll use the same technique as a permanent feature on a future project.

However, this project used up a lot of tape, so next time I will be using painter's tape. It has a very low adhesive factor so that it can be used again at least two more times. Not as wasteful.

Coming up: Fitting issues with the Pastille.

Twist Top - Butterick 5429

Item 3 of the Fall Palette Challenge:

Pattern: Butterick 5429 (2009)


Pattern Description: Long-sleeved twist top with dropped shoulders



Pattern Sizing: Size BB (8-14), I made a size 12 since I was making it in a knit. Could have cut it even smaller, maybe by two sizes.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The only issue I have with the top is the one I had when I made my first one. The pattern illustrations are deceiving. They show a more nipped in waist and in fact, the pattern description calls this a close-fitting top. I disagree. This is very much a loose-fitting top when made according to their instructions.



Fabric Used: 1.5 yards Global Traveler "tribal" rayon jersey (95% rayon, 5% Spandex) at $9 a yard (orig. $14.99 per yard) from Jo-Ann Fabrics.



Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Because I wanted it to be a more fitted top I cut it one size smaller. When I realized I could have cut it even smaller I changed the seam allowances from 5/8" to 3/4". The design still left a lot of extra fabric hanging beneath the twist, far too much to be attractive, so after completing the front bodice I decided to scoop out that front seam, curving in from the bottom of the open twist to one inch at the middle and and then back out to the hem, blending the stitching into the original seams. That was exactly what it needed to streamline. I then altered the pattern piece accordingly so I won't have to deal with that again.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would make it again in both knits and wovens. I have already cut the pattern down to a size 8 and made the center bodice alteration, so of course I'm going to try this again. I would recommend it to others but suggest that a muslin be made first.

Conclusion: I love it, the shape, the colors and the print. This top goes with many of the pants and skirts that I already have and the ones I plan to make.

Belted Dress - Simplicity 2406

Item 2 of the Fall Palette Challenge:

Pattern: Simplicity 2406 - A Cynthia Rowley design

Pattern Description: Belted dress with gathered 3/4 raglan sleeves

Pattern Sizing: Size H5 (6-14), I made a size 14.



Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? There was nothing I didn't like about the dress, the only problem I had was the mistake I made. I should have bought the next size group and made a 16 instead of the 14 which is two inches too small at the hips. When cutting, I then forgot to add that missing width to the dress, it can be worn but is a bit snug when I have my hands in the pockets. However, what I love about the pattern is the pockets and the gathered wide neckline.

Fabric Used: Sew Classics brown heather solid suiting, $6.99 per yard 50% off from Jo-Ann Fabrics; Coats & Clark thread in Twig #8480, that perfectly matches the fabric; and Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made four changes; three because of the pattern and one because of my own mistake. After being warned about the pocket installation instructions in Kyle's review of this dress I instead did them the way I always do and avoided a headache. Also in the same review I learned that additional length would need to be added to the sash and that I could eliminate the zipper completely because the dress would still fit over the head.

Because I made the dress in the wrong size I also had to decrease the back seam allowance to 1/2" instead of 5/8" in order to add as much width as I could to the dress. However, I forgot another point from Kyle's review that stated just how wide the neckline was so I should have only increased it from the waist down and actually decreased the area above to bring in that wide neckline. Oh well, I'll make lingerie bra guards later.

Too much fabric in bodice.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would with the modifications mentioned above, of course. Perhaps, I'll try a print next time.

How to wear it in the Winter!

Conclusion: A cool non-fussy dress suitable for work or traveling because (Bonus!) this fabric does not wrinkle!

Wide-leg Shorts - Vogue 2883

Item 1 of the Fall Palette Challenge:

Pattern: Vogue 2883 (OOP)

Pattern Description: Wide-legged shorts with pockets

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 12-14-16, I made a size 16 with no alterations

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was trying to copy a pair of shorts I had seen, the Settler shorts (see left) by Rachel Comey. Looking at this pattern, which I originally bought in the early 90s, I noticed that the shorts might fit the bill. Strangely, I couldn't find one current Big 4 pattern with similar shorts at all.

Fabric Used: Sew Classics brown heather solid suiting $6.99 per yard from Jo-Ann Fabrics, Coats & Clark thread in Twig that perfectly matches the fabric, a matching zipper, and 1 1/4" waistband interfacing that I already had (score!).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I only made one change, I didn't like the spacing of the front pleats and did them my own way, otherwise the pattern worked out fine.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would. Next time perhaps in a lightweight corduroy or a more silky fabric.



Conclusion: Great feminine shorts with the ease of a skirt and the practicality of pants.

Rachel Comey image from Totokaelo.com

2011 Fall Palette Challenge (with a change)

Yes, I am participating in the Colette Patterns Fall Palette Challenge. My plan; however, is for all of 2011 and includes projects for both summer and fall.

Summer: Simplicity 2406, Vogue 2883, Vogue 1922, Vogue 9772
(last three, all OOPs)
Fall: Butterick 5429, Vogue 7714, Colette Pastille*, McCall's 5042 and McCall's 5686 (Vogue & McCall's all OOP)
My goal, of course, is not to make everything here within the eight-week time period (puh-lese!) but to complete at least four of these garments during the Challenge. I have three of them near completion, I just need to...well, finish them!



Here is my convenient year-round, all-season palette that I've been working from for the last few years. It's from a Crate and Barrel catalog spread for linen drapes. I found that this line-up represented all of the colors that I liked to wear and are also flattering. The only colors missing are an orange-red/brick shade, pale grey, and a strong, rich purple.

Three of the cold weather pieces are from last year's sewing plan. I have worked on muslins for two of the dresses and the Pastille is stitched up but I ended up having some fitting issues so it is not completely finished. The new fall project is another Butterick 5429 with long sleeves in this beautiful matte jersey print from Jo-Anns. I can't believe I never noticed it before as it incorporates so many of the colors that I like.

Tribal Rayon Jersey from Jo-Ann's

* I was a tester for the Pastille dress from Colette Patterns.

The Coordinated Summer Wardrobe

Over the last few months I did a little bit of fabric shopping. As I've written before, most of my pants no longer fit and I don't own any shorts. So I felt some new fabric was warranted. I used my state tax refund of $50 to buy most of this so I don't feel guilty. I don't, I swear!

Here are the goodies and the projects that these are destined for:

Brown heather linen-like, Daphne batiste (for linings) in papyrus, Prairie Rose Swiss dot, a stone gray polynosic woven, and an Alexander Henry Mocca print in chocolate. What I love about these fabrics is that unconsciously I ended up with mostly items that go together, with the designer print standing alone. They are destined for a top, two dresses, shorts, and pants.

The Swiss dot is destined for a sweet top, perhaps a 2nd Sorbetto? I was only able to get 1 1/2 yards of this, so it is pretty precious. The brown heather woven is the same fabric used on this skirt. I chose it this time to make a pair of shorts, either classic style Vogue 2532 view B, skirt-like Style 1902, or Vogue 2883, a combination of the two.

Luckily, I bought enough of the brown to also make a Simplicity 2406, view C dress, the gray will be pants from Vogue 1922, and the coveted AH print will either be another New Look 6939 or the Vogue 2883, view B dress. I first need to compare the patterns to find the least sack-like one.

Mosaic Multi Dots matte jersey

Of course, there was one fabric I did not buy because it wasn't on sale. I love this Mosaic matte jersey at Jo-Ann. I've been wanting this fabric for over a year now. Next time I have money and it's on sale, IF it is still there, it will be mine!

Knit Cardigan - Simplicity 2560

Pattern: Simplicity 2560

Pattern Description: Misses' Knit Cardigans

Pattern Sizing: View A in size 14, no alterations

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much. Because this was a knit I used a combination of straight and zigzag stitches on the seams.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the flowing nature of the design.

Fabric Used: Rayon/Spandex knit in Potent Purple from Jo-Ann Fabrics, $9.75.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Besides lengthening the sleeves as much as the pattern layout would allow (to right below my elbows) I made no other alterations to the pattern. I hemmed and double stitched the sleeve hems to look like a twin-needle. At first I wanted to leave the edges raw, scared of the hem stretching out and rippling. However, I ended up hemming the piece because it just didn't feel finished without that step. It worked out fine, probably because the fabric is three layers at that point. Next time I will add more length to the sleeves even if I have to piece them.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. I highly recommend this pattern, it was an incredibly easy and quick sew.

Conclusion: A very comfortable cardigan that could be made out of even thicker sweater knit for a more substantial feel.

Sorbetto Tank Top - Colette Patterns

Pattern: Colette Patterns Sorbetto Top (free!)

Pattern Description: Tank top with center box pleat detail

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 2 -20, I made a size 4 tapering out to an 8 at the hips

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Well, first of all I liked that the pattern was a free download! I also liked the simple shape and the fact that it could be used to draft different variations. It was quick to make, only used 1 1/2 yards of fabric, and needed no fastenings. What I disliked was the alterations I had to make for it to fit me without gaping.

Fabric Used: A 100% cotton Fruit Spots print by Jo-Ann Fabrics and Wrights 1/2" wide single fold bias tape in Stone Blue (an almost perfect match).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I originally made a size 6 at the shoulders and armholes and tapered the pattern to a 10 at the hem but after wearing it once realized it was way too big at the neckline and gaping at the underarms.

I took it apart and recut the pieces in a size 4 at top tapering out to an 8 at the hips. It seems my shoulders and upper chest area were too narrow for the pattern as is so I took in the top of the pleat a bit more to eliminate the gaping there.The length of the upper chest was too long so I cut the shoulder seams to the size 2 on the pattern. Then because the shorter straps caused the underarm seams to rise I scooped out the underarm 1/4" and tapered up. I made the changes to the pattern by tracing each fabric piece with every change I made.

After wearing it again, I think I will scoop out the underarm another 1/4".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I actually have a beautiful Swiss dot print chosen for another one. Now that I have a custom pattern prepared it should be lovely, I might even add wavy cap sleeves as the new fabric calls out for feminine details. I highly recommend preparing a muslin.

Conclusion: A very comfortable top that could possibly be made in an hour (if you're not me!).

The Statement Necklace

Note: I just received an AdSense check from Google and have a bit of profit in my Etsy shop, so I'm thinking of treating myself to something nice. Otherwise, I would not be looking at jewelry. Isn't that sad but it's just not a necessity.

Lodge, $98.

I suddenly had a desire to buy myself some jewelry, especially a statement necklace, much like the ones I admire all the time at Totokaelo, all metal but simple in style. Something that would make a simple T and shorts combo look "artist" cool.

Copper Ladder, $40.

This feeling all came after I saw some old posts on Simple Lovely showing the jewelry that the author Joslyn owns. She is almost always wearing some fabulous necklace to go with her very cool clothes. This time, the necklace was by Laura Lombardi via the Pretty Mommy site. Checking out her items available there, her namesake site, and her Etsy shop these are the ones I just can't stop thinking about:

Spiked Fringe, $70. A real possibility

Mida, $110

Triangle Cascade, $115

Remigial, $200

Such a favorite, but oh...the price.

So an actual Lombardi is still a possibility because she does have some affordable pieces, but I still went searching the Internets for similar pieces and other artists who use these materials.

Here are two that I found:

New Grid by Nikki Koru, $39

Tribal Tubular, $29 on sale!

I should snatch this last one up now, right? Before I regret it like I regret missing out on this gem?

Sources (in order): Pretty Mommy, Laura Lombardi.com, Laura Lombardi at Etsy, Nomoikoru at Etsy, Banana Republic.com

Flora, Food, and Fantastic Oolong!

My birthday flowers! Along with the beautiful lilies, daises and crysanthemums from a dear friend, my boss ordered a truly delicious gluten-free pumpkin cake with cream cheese frosting from Ellwood Thompson. A huge hunk of it is now in my freezer and I am so tempted to defrost it already!

But, what do you say? Did I finish the dress? Well...





YES, I DID!!!



Worn with brown fishnets and my superstar brown suede 1940's-inspired shoes.
Yes, those are criss-crossed ankle straps!

Detail shot.

Moody film-noir shot.