Wednesday, September 12, 2012

7. Summer Shift Dress - New Look 6939 (OOP)

Pattern: New Look 6939 (OOP)

Pattern Description: Slightly A-line, knee-length shift dress with v-neck option and front darts.

Pattern Sizing: (8-18) I made a size 12 bodice, blending out to a size 14 at hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, except I did not include the neckline ruffle for this version.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, extremely easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It's easy, perfect for a quick, cute make. I have made this dress before and love the forgiving shape, its perfect for a summer dress.

Fabric Used: 2 1/2 yards cotton in Alexander Henry Mocca in Chocolate from my stash, bought years ago in 2007 for $7.25 per yard. This feels like a thin crisp poplin and doesn't wrinkle! 1/2 yard matching red rayon challis from Hancock Fabric for the contrast skirt border.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made no size changes because my other version of this dress still fits well and I had altered the pattern pieces at that time. However, both the drape, weight, and neckline of that one was different and I should have taken that into consideration. I ended up shortening the shoulder length by 3/4" inch because the bodice would rise above my shoulders when I sat down. There was too much length from armscye to shoulder seam, something that wasn't as noticeable in the first dress.

It took me a long time to finish this dress because I didn't have enough fabric and had to add a border of a different fabric to the bottom to make up the length, much like my other dress. The print fabric does not wrinkle; however, the challis does and did not have as much body. Therefore, I used two layers of the challis, a self-lining of sorts, to provide more structure and eliminate the need for a hem.

Instead of trying to cut straight on the slippery challis, instead I pulled threads to straighten the grain, making a perfect rectangle, that I folded it in half, and attached one side to the bottom of the dress and hand sewed the other over the seam, encasing it inside. Both fabrics pressed well and resulted in a neat border. I  finished the inside side seams by folding the seam allowances under and stitching down the middle, leaving no raw edges visible.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will probably make this dress many more times. However, for some reason, the dress feels a wee bit looser this time, perhaps the linen version shrunk at some point. I love that this dress pattern can be adapted and changed infinitely. It would look lovely as a brocade cocktail shift from the 60's. If you can not find this exact same pattern, there is now a more recent version, New Look 6095. It is a quick dress to whip up in a day or two. Just remember to buy enough fabric!


Conclusion: I knew this was a perfect marriage of pattern and fabric. I wanted a simple dress design that wouldn't steal thunder from the large, bold, and colorful print and I believe I succeeded.

Images: My own photos

Thursday, September 06, 2012

6. Summer Tank Top - Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank #31001



Pattern: Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank #31001

Pattern Description: (0-18) Tank top with bust darts, bias bound edges, and a slightly relaxed fit.

Pattern Sizing: Neck, shoulders to underarm in size 8, the rest in size 10.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like how the tank is fitted at the top but flows along the rest of the torso. It does not use a lot of fabric or take up a lot of time to sew. I loved the bias-bound neckline as it gave a RTW look.


Fabric Used: A somewhat shiny, lightweight, horizontal striped gray fabric with a foulard pattern perfect for a man's tie. The fabric is a recycle of a dress that Slapdash Sewist wasn't happy with, in fact, she called it her "Prison Matron Dress".

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?: I originally was going to use the dress as a dress, slim it down or make a tunic out of it. However, I had the Grainline pattern raring to go and I had made a promise not to buy any more garment fabric, so...  A great recycling project at hand, I laid out the pattern on the dress and it was going to work! The only difference would be that there was a back seam.

The first thing I did before I cut any pieces was to make sure the fabric was on grain. It was not, so I used the pull-a-strand method and luckily still had enough width to cut the front with no piecing. However, because of the grain being off I  could not use the existing back seam. I recut the back on the grain and sewed a 1/4" seam allowance, folded it to one side and made a flat fell seam. In addition, since this fabric seemed to unravel at a glance I encased the shoulder and sides in French seams. I finished it by following the instructions for the tiny 1/4" hem.


This is the true color


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will make this again, as a top and also as a dress. I also love how Grainline patterns are nested so that you don't have to sacrifice the smaller sizes when it is cut out.


Conclusion: This is a great versatile tank for summer.

Images: my own photos, GrainlineStudio.com

Friday, August 24, 2012

12 In Twelve - Handmade Wardrobe Update

It's the eighth month of the year so I should be more than half way done, right?

Well, it depends. If you want to count the original garments I meant to finish, then no.

I had been going on a good run there for a while. Unfortunately, I kept getting sidetracked. Something didn't fit right so instead of being stuck I just moved on to another project and...


I ended up substituting different garments as they caught my eye and like an idiot I have been sewing them all at the same time. One day, a little this, next day, a little of that. Which means it has taken me an awful long time to just finish something. But I have!

As of now, I have completed:


McCall's 4632 Boxy Blouse

Burdastyle Irmchen's Twisted Drape Top

Grainline Studio Scout Woven Tee #31002

Grainline Studio Tiny Pocket Tank #31001

New Look 6939 Shift Dress in Alexander Henry print

Updates!

Vogue 9772 Swiss Dot Summer Tops

Vogue 9745 Flat Front Pants - November

In the next week I expect to finish one more project, catching me up in this eighth month of the year. After I have completed this entire group of twelve, I will try to add the duster coat, finish the Pastille alterations, the black/white wool dress, and I think that will be it for the year. So what if I didn't do exactly what I set out to do? I have done a lot.

In addition, I also completed two "practically worn every day" necklaces and have nearly finished my first quilt.

Coming up: the posted reviews w/ pictures!

The Fabrics - a reminder

Friday, August 17, 2012

Extra...Extra.... Twisted Coins Quilt Update!

Sorry, for the disappearance, I'm really missing my computer and my digital camera. Had no idea until now how much blogging effects my life. It feels weird not to be photographing things for the blog. Well,...

I had a friend help me out today with their camera. Last night, I finished my quilt top and I wanted a picture to show. The first few ones are crappy phone pics of the piecing work I did first and then the lovely reveal.

Starting on the blocks.

All of the pairs are now laid out, ready to be sewn together to complete three columns of thirteen units each. Luckily, I was able to put together a design where every row across contains three different fabrics even though there were only six different fabrics used in the entire quilt. At the bottom edge of the pictures you can see the white and black dotted fabric I chose for the background. At that point, I was having some doubts about the choice. But I'm glad I didn't change it because....



I love the completed quilt top!!!!
In the next class, we will begin quilting it by machine. My homework is to buy the backing fabric and batting for it. I'm thinking of using the fabric below for the back, but I'm still going to take the top with me and browse the store shelves for other possibilities while I also pick up my paycheck (since it is paying for the materials.)
 
Gray Lolli Dot by Michael Miller


Update: We were sold out of the Lolli Dot so I chose the Citron Cote d'Azur for the backing fabric instead. The floral used in the quilt is the Gray Cote d'Azur on a dark gray background whereas this one is on white.


Citron Cote d'Azur

Monday, August 06, 2012

My First Quilt

Well, I am finally taking that beginning quilt class offered by my part-time job. The style of quilt I will be doing has changed because I am taking a different session. But this is better because I don't have to go in on Saturdays and then go back and work at the same place the next day. It would feel like I had no weekend at all. This class, tomorrow evening is after my full-time job. I'm more used to that having taken so many night classes over the years.

Twisted Coin Quilt
I will be making a variation on the classic coin quilt which will provide me with some experience in block piecing, sashing, binding, and actual hand/machine quilting.

This is the fabric that inspired the colors I chose.

Though my apartment is made up of strong bright colors, this collection of fabrics, Citron Gray, has intrigued me ever since I started working at the quilt shop. The line is by Michael Miller Fabrics and has proven very popular in the store, we also have a display quilt using these same fabrics. Because of that display, the line has become very popular. I had to quickly make up my mind which fabrics I needed and how much of each so I could buy my fabrics before any of it sold out. Also, to add some graphic variety to my choices I included a graphic black, gray, and white stripe from the Riley Blake Tuxedo collection for something non-spherically based.

Click image to see fabrics larger.

All of the fabrics in the middle of the above image are the ones that I settled on. Not pictured is the dark gray that will be the quilt backing because I might change my mind and buy up the white on dark gray polka dot for that if it starts to look too busy. Also not clear in the picture is a mild light gray print that I couldn't find a larger picture of, it is not just gray. The majority of the quilt, the background, will be the white fabric with the tiny black dots, and the "coins" will be made from those other six little bundles (fat quarters).

This quilt was also a perfect reason to finally buy a rotary cutter and mat, which conveniently I was able to buy with some graduation money. I can't wait to start!