Follow Me on Bloglovin'

Please.

Hey guys! Google Reader will cease to exist in just 12 days. Yup.

Officially, I've never had a lot of readers following me. For the last two years the number in Google Friend Connect has strangely been holding steady at 169. Well, I know more people read me because my stats tell me so. However, I'm still scared that my readership will diminish because of this upcoming event. So please show your support and follow me. 

To follow me, just click   and THANKS!

If you haven't chosen a new reader, I suggest you try Bloglovin'. I don't know if this is considered sacrilege or not, but I really don't miss Reader. I'm pretty happy with the Bloglovin’ interface. Honestly, if it hadn't been for that topless female torso (??) logo I probably would have checked it out before. I mean, what's up with that? Couldn't she have a shirt on and still look fierce?

Signing up is more than simple. Forget about going through Google Reader to export your blogs, that involves too many steps. Go straight to Bloglovin' and create an account with log in and password like usual. The site will then asks if you want to import your blogs from Google Reader to your new account. Click the button to import and done!

See ya there!

Tell It To Them Straight

After writing my earlier post I was wondering, are we actually letting the Big 4 know when we are having problems with their patterns?

I mean, besides writing about our frustrations on our blogs? I know I haven't been. I think going direct might be the best way to let them know how we feel about certain things like excess ease, finished garment measurements, more plus-size styles, a larger size range, more creative styles, etc. I think it will make more of an impression if we contact them personally.*

Update: I just sent my first email letter to Simplicity 6/14/2013. I'll let you know if/what I hear back from them.

Note: I don't have a large readership so I would appreciate it if you either link back to this page or provide this same information to your readers. I really think we can get something done.

McCall's Pattern Company

Customer service hours are Monday through Friday, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM Eastern time.

For a fast response they can be reached by web form; Vogue here, McCall's here, and Butterick here.

If you would rather write them:

• Vogue Patterns
  120 Broadway, 34th floor
  New York, New York 10271

• McCall Patterns
  120 Broadway, 34th floor
  New York, New York 10271

• Butterick Patterns
  120 Broadway, 34th floor
  New York, New York 10271

Simplicity Creative Group

By Phone:

• 1 (888) 588-2700
• Monday through Friday, 8:30 am to 4:30 pm, EST
• Leave a message if calling off-hours; one of their reps should return your message as soon as possible next business day.  

By E-mail:

• info@simplicity.com
• Include a subject line to let them know which department to send your inquiry.

*I used to be "that" person who sent hand-written letters to companies and editors when something didn't feel right and most of the time I received satisfaction. In fact, with one letter and two photographs I was able to get out of a $100 parking ticket in Washington, DC! It really works.

Deciphering the Big 4 Ease Charts

As a sewing blogger I am very aware of the problems involved in fitting garments made from Big 4 pattern company patterns: Simplicity/New Look, Vogue, McCall's, and Butterick.* It's well known among us sewists (see recent posts from Shams and Robin) that if you go by your actual body measurements you will most likely end up with an oversized garment. This is because these pattern makers are notorious for ridiculous amounts of ease in their patterns.

A typical sewing pattern includes both wearing and design ease. Wearing ease is minimal and exists so that one can actually sit, stretch, and move in a garment. Design ease is what makes the difference between a dress skimming the body's curves or billowing around them. Design ease is calculated by the designer/maker of the pattern to give the finished garment a specific look. However, it seems the Big 4 likes to overcompensate on the wearing ease issue. I can only guess it's to allow for more women to fit into each size? Why that is, don't ask me.

  

Therefore, to fix the problem many sewists automatically cut a smaller size than the pattern measurements recommend. Unfortunately, that still might not guarantee a good fit. It might be better to note how each company describes the final fit of the individual garment in their pattern descriptions. These following terms correspond with their published ease charts. The charts, available in the back of Vogue Pattern magazine and on their website work for all three brands of the McCall Pattern Company; Vogue, McCall's and Butterick. They give you an idea of what to anticipate when it comes to fitting their garments. Check out the details for Butterick patterns below.

Blouses/Shirts, Dresses
Close fitting = 0-3"
Fitted = 3-4"
Semi-fitted = 4-5"
Loose fitting = 5-8"
Very loose fitting = 8" and more of ridiculous ease!

Pants, Skirts
Close fitting = 0-2"
Fitted = 2-3"
Semi-fitted = 3-4"
Loose fitting = 4-6"
Very loose fitting = 6" and more

Therefore, if you choose a Loose Fitting pattern cutting a size smaller may not make you happy. It may still be 3-4 inches larger than you would like. I also would suggest going by those ease charts and descriptions first because those pattern illustrations might not be accurate and in the photos the garments may have been altered by clothespins pulling fabric and distorting the completed garment.

Update: I found a great example on Pattern Review, Vogue 1287 which is described as "very loose fitting." Read the reviews and what is the only problem most had with this pattern? The huge amount of ease. Which according to Vogue's chart would mean 8" or more. However, looking at the pattern photo, that is not what it looks like but that's what everyone expected. Therefore, to save yourself the frustration that these nine women experienced, definitely start to keep these descriptions in mind because it will help you even if you can't get to the finished garment measurements that you need.

Unfortunately, this kind of detailed ease chart isn't available for the Simplicity Creative Group brands (Simplicity, New Look) but there is this helpful fitting guide** and this handout** for choosing the correct pattern size. Therefore, for these patterns you will have to consult the finished measurements on the pattern's back and on the pattern tissue. Unfortunately, some stores frown on you opening up the pattern tissue in the store before you buy! (Shocking, right?) I've many a time opened up a pattern at home and realized I should have bought another size. At least they'll do an exchange if you have a receipt but it's a pain to go back when you really wanted to start on the project right then.

We may all have our specific problems (see Shams and Robin) that we wish these companies would change, style or otherwise. However, I understand that addressing all of our issues would be a huge financial and logistical undertaking for the Big 4. Perhaps, we can take it one step at a time. What if they could agree to print finished garment measurements on the outside of all pattern envelopes (as well as on the tissue)? Most patterns do print some on the envelope but for fitted dress or wardrobe patterns we need the "Big Three": bust, waist, and hip. Can we all agree on that? What do you think?


*Called the Big 4 but only two actual companies, the McCall Pattern Company (Vogue, McCall's, and Butterick) and the Simplicity Creative Group (Simplicity and New Look).

**Update: Simplicity has a new fitting handout available for download on their website!!!

Images: Examples from Banana Republic, Eloquii (Did you know The Limited had a cool plus-size line?), and The Gap.

Little Red Scout - Grainline Scout #31002

Yup, I made two Scouts in a row!

 

Pattern: Grainline Studio Scout Woven Tee #31002, c. 2011

Pattern Description: Woven t-shirt with capped sleeves, scoop neck, and a loose shape below the bust.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes (0-18) Neck, shoulders, and armscye cut in size 8, rest in size 10. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, with modification.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very simple.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like everything about this pattern, it fit and looked great with no needed modifications.

Fabric Used: Red brushed twill from Joann Fabrics, and a wee bit of Flea Market Fancy from here for the facing.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I adapted the pattern to have a fuller back using this tutorial from Grainline studios. Whereas, Jen added 6 inches to the back width, I added 1.25" between each piece resulting in 7.5 inches added width. Unfortunately, it didn't turn out the way I thought it would. I should have added much more to the back width. I'm the only one that can tell the difference between this one's width and the other two Scouts I have. Also, instead of the fullness being in the back, it instead moves to the front as the side seams  slant to the front instead of hanging straight. Next time, I'll cut a yoke across at the armscye and add about 12 to 15 inches in width to the lower panel.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. This is a great pattern and it can be modified easily into many different looks.

J. Jill

Complex Geometries "Orbit Tee"

Conclusion:  My goal was to create a cross between a J. Jill "artist" shirt that I've coveted for over five years and a Complex Geometries top I first saw on Totokaelo. My shirt ended up much more conservative than desired.

Images: Angie Conner, J. Jill, Complex Geometries, Totokaelo

The Me-Madeness of it All!

I know I've given you no proof of this but I participated in Me-Made-May.

I actually wore at least one me-made item of clothing every day, but I didn't really plan it. It just happened. Looking at my closet today, I fully see why it was possible. I finally have enough clothes, at least for this season's warmer weather. When I open the closet door, right off the bat, I can see that at least 50% of the contents in immediate view were made by me.

A quick inventory of items worn in May:

Tops:

• 1 mustard asymmetrical knit top - Burdastyle
• 1 multi-colored long sleeve twist top - Butterick 5429
• 1 black knit boatneck tee - New Look 6838
• 1 red, black, and white long sleeve knit boatneck top - New Look 6838
• 1 blue patterned long-sleeved cotton Scout - Grainline #31002
• 1 neutral cotton print Scout - Grainline #31002
• 1 red brushed twill Scout - Grainline #31002
• 1 floral gathered sleeve cotton top - Simplicity 3835/Vogue 8392 combo
• 1 neutral twill cap-sleeve top - McCall's 4632

Skirts:

• 1 black corduroy skirt - Sew U
• 1 grey wool suiting skirt - Sew U
• 1 blue denim wrap skirt - Simplicity 8126  (weekends only)
• 1 gray cotton gathered skirt - Pattern Runway
• 2 slips, pink and blue

Dresses:

• 1 belted brown cotton dress - Simplicity 2406
• 1 green linen shift dress - New Look 6939
• 1 off-white shift dress - Burdastyle
• 1 autumn floral belted dress - Simplicity 5190

Pants:

• None. Zilch. Nada. (need to remedy that)

As you can see, it was basically all upper body participation, pairing me-made tops with ready-to-wear bottoms. I did get it done though. It counts.

Now on to make more items...