Summer Walking Shorts - Vogue 2532

Pattern: Vogue 2532 c. 2001

Pattern Description: Shorts, micro-mini, above mid-knee, below mid-knee or straight-legged pants have waistband, carriers, in-seam pockets and mock-fly zipper. A,B,C,D: side slits and stitched hems. E: cuffs. Purchased top and belt. I made the above mid-knee view.

Pattern Sizing: (12-14-16) I chose a size 16 which actually did match my measurements and the finished garment measurements were just right.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, mostly. However, I did not construct the side slits and did a blind hem instead of the visible one they suggest.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a pair of slim walking shorts, the opposite of my almost skirt-like pair. I also learned a new faux fly zipper technique that I will be using again which resulted in my best looking zip ever, exterior and interior. The only thing I didn't like was that they are too long waisted. However, that could have been fixed if I had made a muslin.

Fabric Used: A 44/45" madras cotton print FREE from the VA/DC/MD blogger swap, 7" Robin zipper in Lead Blue, thread, fusible knit interfacing, and a snap closure.

Isn't that a gorgeous inside zipper view?

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?: I did not mean to make any alterations but when it got to making the side slits I decided to just make a simple straight hem. I think because the pattern was specifically drafted for those slits is why I had to ease the hem around and use steam to shrink the puckers. I really liked the zipper application, it was a different way to do a faux fly, worked smoothly, and looks great.

For the waistband I decided to forgo the pattern instructions to trim the corner of the seam allowance at an angle and instead followed this great Perfect Corners on Waistbands tutorial from Lisa G. at Notes From a Mad Housewife instead. And yes, they turned out perfect!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes. 

Conclusion: I adore this fabric, it's a mystery but it has such a soft yet firm hand I would not be surprised if this were my first silk/cotton mix. Luckily, I have enough left to make a top from next summer. Too bad that the front crotch length was too long. If only I had checked more closely. I could possibly take off the waistband and replace it after cutting one inch or so from the top of the shorts if I also shorten the zipper from the top by an inch. I may* do that next summer, this year I'll just pretend I meant to make high-waisted shorts.

Images: My own, McCall Patterns

*knowing me, probably NOT.

Update on a Happy Holiday Weekend!

Currently reading: Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth L. Cline, The Hunger Games by Suzanne Collins and Blink: The Power of Thinking Without Thinking by Malcolm Gladwell.

Listening to: I Love You by The Neighbourhood, of Sweater Weather fame. Surprisingly, their other songs are very different from this breezy summer beach song. I'm especially a fan of Jesse with his tattoos, leggings, and leather skirt...hot.



Here's another, Female Robbery, which is totally different and them live on KROQ with Afraid.

Most recent movies seen (via Netflix): The Decoy Bride (w/ David Tennant), Doctor Who S.1-3, and The Hunger Games. (see above)

Watching on TV: Silk's English barristers and Scott & Bailey's female detective, all on my local PBS stations. We have access to two which means if I miss Masterpiece on Sunday I can catch it again on Wednesday night.

Currently sewing: Finishing up my next skirt, which is very different from the last and from a new indie pattern designer.

Guess what? I have another finished make to show you on Tuesday or Wednesday! Yep, guess who got her camera to work again? ;)

I hope you all have a great weekend!!

Imperial Purple Skirt - Simplicity 2152

Pattern: Simplicity 2152 c. 2011

Pattern Description: Misses' six-panel A-line skirt in three lengths with visible front pockets and deep contour waistband. Design by Karen Z.

Pattern Sizing: Size R5 (14-22), I first cut out a 16 as it matched my waist and hip measurements but later recut the same pieces as a size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the a-line shape and the large banded pockets.

Fabric Used: 1 3/4 yards 54" linen in Potent Purple (50% Poly, 50% Rayon) from Joann Fabrics, 5/8 yard Denyse Schmidt's Flea Market Fancy Medallion print in Green, matching thread, Coats & Clark 7" zipper in Fuchsia #35A, and Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Despite knowing about the excess ease in Big 4 patterns I still cut out a 16 instead of taking time to measure the flat pattern. When it turned out huge I took it apart and recut the pieces to a size 14.

Close up of pocket exterior

I chose to make view E but with the length measurement of view C. I came across this cool article on how to choose the right skirt length for your body and it makes perfect sense. Thanks TarHeel Mom! Despite this I still had to alter the hem on the back because my b**ty made it noticeably shorter.



Pocket interior

When it came to the pockets, I didn't like that there would be exposed edges left inside. I cut the pocket piece again in some Flea Market Fancy cotton and sewed it right sides together with the existing pocket encasing the pocket bands and then turned the whole thing inside-out. This resulted in a fully encased pocket without any raw edges. The colorful fabric is also a special hidden treat.

As I was sewing in the zipper I realized I had made a mistake. I had pinked the seam allowances on all my seams including the ones on the front opening. This meant there was not enough seam allowance to attach the zip correctly. I had to use black seam binding and a strip of red bias from another project to extend the seams. (Yeah, I don't care what it looks like from the inside as long as it works and lasts.*) Luckily, it turned out great and I was able to get really close to the zipper teeth on this lapped zipper.

 

Lapped zipper is too noticeable because of bulky yoke/skirt seam.

OKAY...but even after fixing that (and wearing the skirt to work twice) I realized I still wasn't happy with the zipper. I had my doubts when I did it the first time according to the directions and I should have gone with my instincts. By completely finishing the yoke/waistband/facing and then inserting the zipper, you end up sewing though too many layers of skirt and interfacing and end up with a bulky lapped zipper. I should have either attached the zipper first then folded down the facing and slip stitched to the zipper or attached it as a centered zipper in the first place. So, the option was pick, pick, pick…or leave it as is. I chose to leave it. I sewed a sturdy snap to the closure and am content with my final skirt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will. I highly recommend this pattern. I can definitely see it made in corduroy or with piping, or made in a stripe and changing the direction on some or all of the separate sections; waistband, pockets, or center band.

Conclusion: I was intrigued by this skirt above by One Avian Daemon on Pinterest and then found this near identical Simplicity pattern. I loved the placement of the pockets. Luckily, I had some suitable stash fabric to make this pattern. However, I wish I had used contrasting thread for the topstitching or piping because you can barely see the pockets. Also, because of the shortcuts I took with this no one will get to examine this skirt very closely!

My biggest suggestion is to change the construction order and sew in the zipper after attaching the yoke waistband in order to eliminate stitching through so many fabric layers.

Images: my own photos, Simplicity Patterns, One Avian Daemon

* Another reason why I don't use invisible zippers. Seriously, why bother if you can't depend on them?

My Handmade Wardrobe Inventory

Looking at my closet I wondered just how many of the clothes in my closet were made by me. A quick inventory is below, to see these items and read their reviews and construction details, go look at My Handmade Wardrobe.

Knit Tops:

• Mustard Burdastyle "Let's Twist Again..." top
• Pink polka dot Butterick 5429 twist top
• Autumnal floral Butterick 5429 twist top
• Black New Look 6838 short-sleeve boatneck
• Red, black & white New Look 6838 long-sleeve boatneck
• Magenta New Look 6807 gathered-sleeve top

Woven Tops:

• Grainline Scouts
  Brown print
  Red twill w/ full back
  Cornflower blue floral w/ gathered 3/4 sleeve
• Gray Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank
• Yellow gingham Colette Sorbetto
• Multicolor dots Sorbetto
• Swiss Dot Vogue 9772 bias top
• Cream Vogue 2068 gauze top
• Blue Simplicity BBW 3835 top
• Cream Simplicity 3835/Vogue 8392 gathered long-sleeve top
• Autumnal floral  Simplicity 3835/Vogue 8392 gathered long-sleeve top
• Cream Butterick 4632 gathered yoke shell
• Red Butterick 2564 cut-on sleeve shell

Interesting note: I like my clothing easy to sew and easy to wear. None have zippers, only two have buttons but only on the backs and all can be pulled on over my head, if needed. So, I probably should make at least two shirts with buttons or snaps for a more formal look. Maybe. If it ain't broke...

Skirts:

• Built By Wendy Sew U skirts
  Black corduroy
  Brown corduroy
  Gray wool
• Blue denim Simplicity 8126 wrap skirt
• Red twill Simplicity 5914* skirt
• Heather gray Pattern Runway gathered skirt
• Black floral Simplicity 9765 long skirt
• Iridescent purple Vogue 7058 ball skirt
• Purple Simplicity 2152 linen A-line skirt
• Teal abstract floral Paprika Patterns Jade skirt

Dresses:

• Pink polka dot SewStylish One-Hour Dress
• Heather tan Simplicity 2406 belted cotton dress
• Purple Butterick 4948 corduroy dress
• Orange plaid McCall's 6712 "maternity" dress w/ shoulder ties
• Green New Look 6939 shift
• Floral New Look 6939 shift dress
• Beige Burdastyle "Anda" shift
• Red floral New Look 6860 sun dress
• Autumn floral Simplicity 5190 faux-wrap dress
• Floral McCall's 5042 full-skirted dress
• Red Colette Oolong #1008 dress
• Black Vogue 9968 knit cowl dress

Note: Only one zipper in the bunch(!!), all others can be pulled over the head.

Special Occasion**:

• Blue Simplicity 8343 brocade full-length gown.
• Bronze Style 2448 velour 1920-ish gown.
• Blue/yellow shot cotton McCall's 9403 strapless dress.

Pants:

• Brown gabardine Vogue 9745 flat-front trousers
• Heather tan Vogue 2883 shorts
• Purple and green Vogue 2532 plaid shorts

Only one pair of pants but have fabric and supplies for four others. Must get on that for fall.

Jacket/Coat:

• Purple knit Simplicity 2560 cardigan
• Brown Vogue 1476 (Issey Miyake) coat

Misc:

• Peacock blue half slip
• Green/B&W stripe Indigorchid #705 panty
• Kwik Sew 2529 sleepwear
  Blue-gray fleece short-sleeve tank and boxer briefs
  Light/dark blue fleece color-block tank and boxer briefs
  Multi-color fleece night shirt

*Recently reissued as Simplicity 1560 with same photo & illustrations.
**First two no longer fit and the third is impractical for my life now.

Coming Soon To A Post Right Here

I found taking detail pictures with my phone can work in the best conditions. So here is a picture of my three upcoming blog reviews. The first two items are finished and I'm currently working on the last one. Hopefully, I'll get to take pictures of the whole garments next weekend.

Notice that they're all color coordinated. That was completely unplanned (at least consciously). They are all bottoms and luckily they can be worn with most of my tops (see My Handmade Wardrobe) so obviously I have a color scheme in mind when I buy fabric. I'm pretty surprised that I have such a love for that raspberry color, that's a new discovery for me.

Are you sewing this weekend too?