Fashion In Film: Irma la Douce (1963)

Director: Billy Wilder
Shirley MacLaine, Jack Lemmon
Costume Design: Orry-Kelly
 

Jack Lemmon and Shirley Mclaine

I have always been intrigued by this movie. I found out about it years after watching these two actors in the an earlier Billy Wilder-directed The Apartment (1960). Finding these two very American actors starring in a French sex farce with Lemmon as a policeman and Shirley as one of the best prostitutes in France sounds like a huge mismatch. Here is a discussion of the film on auteurcast.com. Adapted from the 1956 Broadway musical, the movie was a hit and I'm sure I wasn't the only person who loved the interaction of these two actors together. I wish they had made more movies together. Can't you imagine them in an incredible (but offbeat) production of Taming of the Shrew?

The costuming of this movie is another reason to love it, Irma's wardrobe in particular. In the movie, Irma La Douce (aka Irma the sweet), has a favorite color that is represented in her wardrobe at all times. Her stockings, lingerie, and even her eye shadow come in the same lovely billiard table green. Her precious pooch, Coquette, is always sporting a green bow to match.

My favorite movie costume designer, Orry-Kelly, created some great outfits for this movie, which also included cool costumes for the many ladies of the night, sailors, pimps, eccentric gentlemen, and police (gendarmes) characters in the cast.*

 

Shirley on the cover of LIFE magazine, June 21, 1963.

When we first meet Irma she is not dressed as provocatively as her friends and competitors, though later oufits make it pretty clear what she does for a living.

Loving the see-through raincoat and the matching green barrettes on Irma and Coquette. A quick look at other images from this scene show that the dog is wearing her own translucent rain slicker too!

The suit looked black in the movie, but I have a feeling that it might have actually been a very dark green, as in the first photo above.

 

Is that apartment for real?!

I included so many pictures of this negligee because it is so amazing. This piece and the green lace top/bra below were my lasting visual memories of this film. Though it is see-through it reveals nothing but the belly button and cleavage, yet it is sexier than a skimpier outfit would be. I wouldn't be surprised to find that Shirley kept this after the filming...I would! Note the matching billiard green marabou mules. I've always found boudoir shoes decadent...but I guess that's the appeal. The use of the green lace and sheer net is genius. I wonder if you could find those materials in that particular shade of green today? Another amazing thing about the lingerie in this movie is how well it shows off MacLaine's dancer figure and that the engineered structure of the bras were giving her "girls" LIFE!



On the set.



Another fashion-filled Shirley Maclaine film to check out would be the amazing What A Way To Go(1964) with costumes by Edith Head. There are seventy-three!! different costumes for Shirley's character alone! One day I'll try to chronicle the fashion from that movie, though it might take a long time and will probably be in installments! 

* Watch out for cameos by Bill Bixby and James Caan.

Images: Leo Fuchs, Gjon Mili (Life photo)

Hey, Hey, Pantone, What D'ya Know?

Hey, even if I didn't mean to participate in any of the Pantone sew-a-longs, it seems I subconsciously did anyway.  However, I did my sewing for summer instead of fall.

Fall 2013 Pantone Color Report

Shorts, A-line skirt, pencil skirt



Look at my last few finished objects:

Vogue 2532 Shorts: In this fabric alone, there is Turbulence, Acai, Linden Green, Mykonos Blue, and Deep Lichen Green.

Simplicity 2152 Skirt: In real life, the color is closer to Acai than Vivacious, but in the men's color report the Beaujolais shade is right on the money, pretty much a perfect combo of the two.

The second "mystery" skirt (not photographed for the blog yet), is Mykonos Blue with design accents in Vivacious.



Spring 2014 Pantone Color Report

Checking out the colors for next spring (so far awaaayyy) I see a few that I could see in my wardrobe. However, I would have to boost the intensity of a few because I don't wear many pastels. Of course, this all will depend on fabric stores stocking desirable fabrics in these colors. Which colors do you see yourself wearing?

Images: Pantone color report, my own photo.

Summer Walking Shorts - Vogue 2532

Pattern: Vogue 2532 c. 2001

Pattern Description: Shorts, micro-mini, above mid-knee, below mid-knee or straight-legged pants have waistband, carriers, in-seam pockets and mock-fly zipper. A,B,C,D: side slits and stitched hems. E: cuffs. Purchased top and belt. I made the above mid-knee view.

Pattern Sizing: (12-14-16) I chose a size 16 which actually did match my measurements and the finished garment measurements were just right.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, mostly. However, I did not construct the side slits and did a blind hem instead of the visible one they suggest.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a pair of slim walking shorts, the opposite of my almost skirt-like pair. I also learned a new faux fly zipper technique that I will be using again which resulted in my best looking zip ever, exterior and interior. The only thing I didn't like was that they are too long waisted. However, that could have been fixed if I had made a muslin.

Fabric Used: A 44/45" madras cotton print FREE from the VA/DC/MD blogger swap, 7" Robin zipper in Lead Blue, thread, fusible knit interfacing, and a snap closure.

Isn't that a gorgeous inside zipper view?

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made?: I did not mean to make any alterations but when it got to making the side slits I decided to just make a simple straight hem. I think because the pattern was specifically drafted for those slits is why I had to ease the hem around and use steam to shrink the puckers. I really liked the zipper application, it was a different way to do a faux fly, worked smoothly, and looks great.

For the waistband I decided to forgo the pattern instructions to trim the corner of the seam allowance at an angle and instead followed this great Perfect Corners on Waistbands tutorial from Lisa G. at Notes From a Mad Housewife instead. And yes, they turned out perfect!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes. 

Conclusion: I adore this fabric, it's a mystery but it has such a soft yet firm hand I would not be surprised if this were my first silk/cotton mix. Luckily, I have enough left to make a top from next summer. Too bad that the front crotch length was too long. If only I had checked more closely. I could possibly take off the waistband and replace it after cutting one inch or so from the top of the shorts if I also shorten the zipper from the top by an inch. I may* do that next summer, this year I'll just pretend I meant to make high-waisted shorts.

Images: My own, McCall Patterns

*knowing me, probably NOT.

Update on a Happy Holiday Weekend!

Currently reading: Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth L. Cline, The Hunger Games by Suzanne Collins and Blink: The Power of Thinking Without Thinking by Malcolm Gladwell.

Listening to: I Love You by The Neighbourhood, of Sweater Weather fame. Surprisingly, their other songs are very different from this breezy summer beach song. I'm especially a fan of Jesse with his tattoos, leggings, and leather skirt...hot.



Here's another, Female Robbery, which is totally different and them live on KROQ with Afraid.

Most recent movies seen (via Netflix): The Decoy Bride (w/ David Tennant), Doctor Who S.1-3, and The Hunger Games. (see above)

Watching on TV: Silk's English barristers and Scott & Bailey's female detective, all on my local PBS stations. We have access to two which means if I miss Masterpiece on Sunday I can catch it again on Wednesday night.

Currently sewing: Finishing up my next skirt, which is very different from the last and from a new indie pattern designer.

Guess what? I have another finished make to show you on Tuesday or Wednesday! Yep, guess who got her camera to work again? ;)

I hope you all have a great weekend!!

Imperial Purple Skirt - Simplicity 2152

Pattern: Simplicity 2152 c. 2011

Pattern Description: Misses' six-panel A-line skirt in three lengths with visible front pockets and deep contour waistband. Design by Karen Z.

Pattern Sizing: Size R5 (14-22), I first cut out a 16 as it matched my waist and hip measurements but later recut the same pieces as a size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the a-line shape and the large banded pockets.

Fabric Used: 1 3/4 yards 54" linen in Potent Purple (50% Poly, 50% Rayon) from Joann Fabrics, 5/8 yard Denyse Schmidt's Flea Market Fancy Medallion print in Green, matching thread, Coats & Clark 7" zipper in Fuchsia #35A, and Pellon Easy-Knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Despite knowing about the excess ease in Big 4 patterns I still cut out a 16 instead of taking time to measure the flat pattern. When it turned out huge I took it apart and recut the pieces to a size 14.

Close up of pocket exterior

I chose to make view E but with the length measurement of view C. I came across this cool article on how to choose the right skirt length for your body and it makes perfect sense. Thanks TarHeel Mom! Despite this I still had to alter the hem on the back because my b**ty made it noticeably shorter.



Pocket interior

When it came to the pockets, I didn't like that there would be exposed edges left inside. I cut the pocket piece again in some Flea Market Fancy cotton and sewed it right sides together with the existing pocket encasing the pocket bands and then turned the whole thing inside-out. This resulted in a fully encased pocket without any raw edges. The colorful fabric is also a special hidden treat.

As I was sewing in the zipper I realized I had made a mistake. I had pinked the seam allowances on all my seams including the ones on the front opening. This meant there was not enough seam allowance to attach the zip correctly. I had to use black seam binding and a strip of red bias from another project to extend the seams. (Yeah, I don't care what it looks like from the inside as long as it works and lasts.*) Luckily, it turned out great and I was able to get really close to the zipper teeth on this lapped zipper.

 

Lapped zipper is too noticeable because of bulky yoke/skirt seam.

OKAY...but even after fixing that (and wearing the skirt to work twice) I realized I still wasn't happy with the zipper. I had my doubts when I did it the first time according to the directions and I should have gone with my instincts. By completely finishing the yoke/waistband/facing and then inserting the zipper, you end up sewing though too many layers of skirt and interfacing and end up with a bulky lapped zipper. I should have either attached the zipper first then folded down the facing and slip stitched to the zipper or attached it as a centered zipper in the first place. So, the option was pick, pick, pick…or leave it as is. I chose to leave it. I sewed a sturdy snap to the closure and am content with my final skirt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will. I highly recommend this pattern. I can definitely see it made in corduroy or with piping, or made in a stripe and changing the direction on some or all of the separate sections; waistband, pockets, or center band.

Conclusion: I was intrigued by this skirt above by One Avian Daemon on Pinterest and then found this near identical Simplicity pattern. I loved the placement of the pockets. Luckily, I had some suitable stash fabric to make this pattern. However, I wish I had used contrasting thread for the topstitching or piping because you can barely see the pockets. Also, because of the shortcuts I took with this no one will get to examine this skirt very closely!

My biggest suggestion is to change the construction order and sew in the zipper after attaching the yoke waistband in order to eliminate stitching through so many fabric layers.

Images: my own photos, Simplicity Patterns, One Avian Daemon

* Another reason why I don't use invisible zippers. Seriously, why bother if you can't depend on them?