Monday, February 22, 2010

Oolong Dress - Colette Patterns #1008 - Part 1

Style 1008: Oolong, the bias dress

Yes, I started this dress last year in October. I am JUST now blogging and finishing it. It went from a possible Thanksgiving dress, to X-mas, New's Year, my birthday, and then even missed Valentine's. So, it's now or never!

The pattern was a bit difficult from the beginning. While I compliment Colette Patterns on covering a large range of sizes, (I mean, wow, I'm only a 2-4 in her line) it sure makes it difficult to differentiate the lines specific for your size. I've never traced out a Burda pattern so I guess this gives me a little idea what that process is like. I ended up using colored pencils to trace over the lines, green for the size I need for the bodice and red for the next size up that I needed for the skirt portion.

Color tracing the size cutting lines

Just some of the pieces hanging all over my apartment for 24 hours at a time to let the bias stretch as directed.

I was originally going to make a muslin first, but then I pondered the pattern layout, all laid out single with no cutting two or more pieces on the fold involved, combined with the fact that the cut out pieces then would need to hang for 24 hours. My new lazy, procrastinating sewer self decided that it would be better for me to just "Go For It" instead of dragging this out. (HA!)

My ice blue poly lining

So I cut out the pieces from my final fabric and purchased some ice blue polyester for the lining (Sew Classic silky solid Silkessence in Denim Blue from JoAnns for only $4.99!). Still being a bit scared, I decided to construct the lining first before sewing the fashion fabric. This way, if there were fitting issues I could correct them in the lining first.

Look at how crisp these pressed edges are! This is my new favorite lining fabric!

Check out those Sophia Loren hips! That's why bias is so great. (Forgive the fit on the bodice, the gathers were not pulled up where they should be in this photo. The front actually fit great.)

And that J.Lo butt! See the need for a sway back adjustment? I have it pleated here to show the excess in the lining. However, you can see it fits great everywhere else it should.

Since this dress has no buttons or zippers (Hurray!) once I'd sewn the lining bodice I was so scared to slip it over my head. What if it didn't fit? I might possibly have fabric to recut it but the pattern had already been cut too. Luckily; it fit great, the only problem was a bit too much fabric in back right under the bra line and before my largest asset.

The lining after some corrections:

Next step, the fashion fabric shell...


nancy said...

Wow, that looks great! You really made it fit you well. I have never sewn anything with a lining, and don't have any experience with slippery fabrics. Any tips for working with it? Thanks!

Anonymous said...

This looks great so far! Funny how little changes can make a big difference.. I'm excited to see the finished dress.

Very Prairie said...

Lookin' good! The dress really shows off your awesome figure.

julia said...

What a fit!!! Beautiful!

Sarai said...

(Hi, this is Sarai from colette patterns)

Gosh, it looks beautiful on you! I definitely understand that the large size range can make cutting trickier, but I'm still mulling over the best solution. Anyway, I love how this looks on you and just had to say so!

Anonymous said...

The bodice detail is great!

I can't believe that this is a pull-on dress?! How wonderful!

I have a J Lo booty too. It popped out when I hit puberty. I just embrace it anymore, though when I was a teenager, it gave me a lot of angst.

Kyle said...

I'm amazed! How can it be so fitted, yet be a pull-on dress????

Nathalie said...

Wow, that does look gorgeous. So nice to see the different stages of fitting leading to the beautiful job you've done in the last pic. Looking forward to seeing the finished result!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Wow, it's like looking in a mirror (except you have boobs). I think we have exactly the same figure!

Congrats on picking up this UFO. It's looking good.

Jo said...

Nice job with the fix at the back. If the finished dress fits as well as the lining it's going to be wonderful.