Book Review: Sewing Lingerie (1991)

As part of the Singer Reference Library, the Sewing Lingerie book from 1991 covers lingerie construction from fabric, lace, and elastic selection to how to construct beautifully detailed custom lingerie.

For the lace instructions covers lace overlays, appliqué, motif matching, and lace insertion techniques. I was amazed by how thorough and extensive the information all presented with step-by-step photos. While I lack the motivation or inclination to make my own lingerie past simple knit underwear, this book should be all that is desired for anyone else to take on the task. Other things included are how to cut woven fabric on the bias and takes you through the construction of basic bikini briefs to slips, tap pants, teddies, dressy robes, kimonos, and flannel-lined silk robes.

For a more thorough review, check out this one by Renee from Miss Celie's Pants.

The fact that the book is long out-of-print should not be a negative. Though the book can still be found in some local libraries, the book can also be found through numerous Internet booksellers. I purchased two other volumes of this Singer series (The Perfect Fit and Sewing Pants That Fit) from Alibris.com for only $.99 each! Though I might not see myself using this book to its fullest, I will probably locate and purchase a copy just for the individual techniques. Therefore, I highly recommend this book.

Book Review: Sewing With Knits (1992)

Sewing With Knits (1992) is part of the brilliant Singer Sewing Reference Library series and covers construction of knit garments from A to Z. The book explains fabric types, care, how to select the right elastic and all the seam finishes you would want to know in order to make your garments look professional, there are no wavy seams here!

Some of the things covered in this volume:

• How to sew knits, from interlock to stretch velvet to two-way stretch fabrics
• Eight different ways for finishing necklines (p.36-45)
• Create perfect knit plackets and welt pockets (p.76-79)
• Five different elastic waistband treatments (p. 90-95)
• Construct neat and tidy buttonholes using fusible web (p. 109)
• Blocking sweater knits (p. 20)
• Dealing with knits fabric that have nap such as velvet, velour, stretch terry (p.104-105)

Two really cool tips too good to keep secret:

• The best overlock thread colors to have are not neccessarily black and white, look what can be accomplished with just an off-white, gray/taupe and a rosy shade of red (p. 23)
• Lining the knee area to prevent baggy knees in knit pants (p. 60-1)

In addition, a special section on swimsuits and leotards (pages 112-123) shows how to:

• Adjust paper patterns for swimsuit torso adjustments
• Apply elastic or elastized binding
• Create partial linings for swimsuits
• Constrict bandeau top linings with or without bra cups
• Produce professional elastized straps

Last but not least, I am again impressed with how well all the information is presented with clear step-by-step photos.

This book is long out-of-print but can be easily found on Etsy, eBay, and used book sellers like Alibris.com and Amazon. If you're lucky, you can also find it in your local library like I did but I think you will probably do better to get your own copy. Watch out for overpriced copies though, I've seen them listed for far over $20(!) when I found my own copies of other volumes in this series (The Perfect Fit and Sewing Pants That Fit) for only 99 cents each! Don't get hoodwinked. I highly recommend this book and now that I have read five books in the series, I will be looking out for the rest of them too.*

*Tailoring (1988), Sewing Activewear (1987), are a few I am interested in.

Book Review: Wordbirds by Liesl Schillinger

A few weeks before my big move, Simon & Schuster sent me a newly published book, Wordbirds: An Irreverent Lexicon for the 21st Century (2013) by Liesl Schillinger and illustrated by Eliza Zechel. The book is a little over 200 pages.

It is written as a dictionary, complete with phonetic transcription and part of speech, that examines the concept of Wordbirds = word combinations creating a new word with a new meaning and then illustrated by a bird-related image. The images are delicate and in the cataloging style of bird watching journals

Goods one such as:

• Hyperscentilate (v.) To apply too much perfume, surrounding yourself in a thick, aromatic mist that causes people to choke, sneeze, and cough, (p. 8).
• Shoeicide (n.) The act of destroying your feet by deliberately wearing shoes you suspect or know to be excruciatingly painful, usually out of vanity, (p. 15).
• Tyrannitot (n.) Child who is permitted (or encouraged) to dominate adult social gatherings and indulge its whims in all particulars, (p.164).

Personally, as a person who talks about my love of dogs and how I want one so bad, yet still have not brought one home, I feel a deep affection for Dawgle (p. 148) and Procrastidate (p. 119) having used my returning to school later in life as an excuse to put off dating. Other great words to check out would be invipaytion (p.45), polterguy (p. 118), phonedeaf (p. 98), and the highly accurate GP-Ass (p.175).

Until I selected the above list of words I had not realized how many of these could easily be used in conversation. Knowing that the book originated from the Ms. Schillinger’s popular tumbler site, I wonder now how many of these have already entered the modern vocabulary.

I find the words and definitions clever and enjoyable; however, I am less a fan of these particular illustrations. While they are definitely gorgeous and finely detailed, the style seems at odds with the youth and irreverence of the text.

I see the images more suited for a tome of poetry or a novel. If I had read the text alone, I would have suggested something younger in feel, a bit less realistic with more whimsy and humor. The text is the most important element. However, the images are what gave the book its title…Wordbirds; therefore, they are an intractable part of the project. Therefore, my suggestions about the ornithology images are moot and just my humble opinion.

Overall, I can see this book as a great holiday gift for someone with a keen sense of humor.

Illustrations: Eliza Zechel

I Won A Giveaway!



Patternmaking by Dennic Chunman Lo

I can hardly believe it! I rarely win things and definitely not things that I really REALLY wanted. But this time, I did.

Thanks to the generous giveaway last month by Shams of Communing With Fabric, I won a fabulous copy of the above book, Patternmaking by Dennic Chunman Lo, the director of the Creative Pattern Cutting program at the London College of Fashion. He is also the designer of his own Lo and Cabon label.

The thing I love most about this book is that it provides a detailed step-by-step guide to creating the basic pattern blocks for a bodice, sleeve, skirt, dress, and pants along with information on how to create patterns above and beyond the rules, ex. the book's cover photo. This book looks at pattern making as it applies to the actual human body by giving written and photographic examples of  the body's range of motion and the considerations that must be drafted into a block to accommodate them. There are no complicated formulas to memorize and everything is created by using true body measurements. Although, the book uses a standard English size 12 in the examples all you need to do is replace those measurements with your own.

Patternmaking is part of the Portfolio Skills series of books for student designers (architecture, advertising, fashion, etc.) that are written by top professors at leading art and design schools. They are all published by Laurence King Publishing, Ltd.

For more information on his course, click on any of the links in this post. You will find more detailed reviews of the book on the Flossie Teacakes and Fashion Incubator blogs. In addition, you can also check out this video by Mr. Lo himself:


Pattern Cutting by Dennic Chunman Lo from Laurence King Publishing on Vimeo.

So Chic, So Attainable

Yes, Project Runway and I have had issues over the years and I now only experience the series through recaps on Tom & Lorenzo. But sometimes, they have picked actually talented designers to highlight on their show. One such contestant was Laura Bennett from Season 3 way back when the show was on Bravo.

Flipping through the pages of her new book, Handmade Chic: Fashionable Projects That Look High-End, Not Homespun, I was amazed at what she was able to accomplish. This book allows you to make extremely lush and high end-looking accessories with a crafty mind on a thrifty budget. Using real or synthetic leather to craft luxe looking accessories and bags with metal hardware to recycling thrift store real mink shawls and coats (or you could buy synthetic fur instead) to make gorgeous fur items, including a to-die-for mink pullover that evokes images of the 1960s. Come on, just picture it with a headband, cigarette pants, and black ballet flats.

Believe it or not, every one of these is a project in the book!

The instructions are simple, so simple, but the results are amazing, right? If you are crafty, stylish, and lust over high-end accessories but have a much lower budget to play with, this is your book.

Images: Rodale Books

Little Green Dresses: In More Detail

Last month, I wrote about Little Green Dresses by Tina Sparkles that I had been coveting for months. Well, the publisher, Tauton Press graciously offered to send me a review copy. Now that I've been able to REALLY look through it I have more points to make about this book.

How about the fact that it includes:

• Complete instructions on taking measurement of the body at thirty-three different places. I was flabbergasted how many! However, only certain ones are needed for certain projects and only two to four are usually needed for the Level 1 beginner projects.



• Instructions for drafting a complete sloper/fitting shell/template garment (a basic long sleeved dress) based on one's personal body measurements! I will be trying this out in the spring (I need to finish a few things first) and writing about my results.

Also that:

• The book is arranged to help beginner sewers and pattern makers move up to the more advanced levels. There are four skill levels for sewing and three levels for pattern making, with each project listing the ability the sewist should possess in order to complete each project.


• Many of the pattern projects are adapted from one beginner "builder" pattern, so that one can build on their prior pattern making skills.


• Level 3 patternmaking consists of the actual drafting of patterns using one's own measurements, including the manipulation of darts, while Level 4 projects involve refashioning secondhand clothing.
  
• Some projects have been contributed by independent clothing designers (including my fave, Elizabeth Dye) in the Austin TX area, and many members of the Austin Craft Mafia (which was founded by the author, Ms. Sparkles).

Some examples:

This use of manipulating darts to create additional pattern pieces in order to incorporate color blocking into this "Swoosh Skirt".

This "Suit Skirt" made from the bottom half of a recycled blazer.

The "Genius" leggings pattern that will not have side seams. This is probably the most intricate pattern in the book.

Book Review: Little Green Dresses

The book is called Little Green Dresses: 50 Original Patterns for Repurposed Dresses, Tops, Skirts, and More* by Tina Sparkles.

Not only is it about repurposing old items of clothing it is also about taking a pre-existing garment, calculating a pattern, and using it to cut a new shape into the item. And when I say a "pattern" I'm not kidding. From pencil skirts to shift dresses to haltered full skirted dresses these are real patterns you are creating by using your own measurements (always a plus!) and then modify to create other options. It is the nitty-gritty way to learning how to draft patterns. That way every pattern in the book comes in your size! Who could want more?

Why this book has not received more hard copy, Internet, and blog press I really don't know? I discovered it by chance in a big box bookstore and wanted to read the whole thing right there. From beginner to intermediate sewists, definitely check this out when you have a chance! While the styling is definitely geared towards the 1980's (uber-trendy with loudly colored, patterned fabric choices, and glitter makeup) you can still see how the instructions taken on their own could be used to make more subtle designs.

A review complete with a look at some of the pages is at Whipup.
Author Tina Sparkles' own website

And, no, I did not receive a free reviewer copy...I wish! I have still only looked at this book (though pretty extensively) in the store but hopefully after the holidays this little publication will finally come home with me!

*Published by Taunton Press, publisher of Threads and Sew Stylish.

The Power of Glamour

Book jacket and naked bound book

The Power of Glamour: The Women Who Defined the Magic of Stardom by Annette Tapert (1998)

Get this book if you love Old Hollywood's gossip, glamorous stars and fabulous gowns. This book covers eleven of the best-dressed stars of old, like Gloria Swanson, Norma Shearer, Dolores del Rio, Joan Crawford, Katherine Hepburn, Carole Lombard, Greta Garbo, and Marlene Dietrich.

I refer back to this book often. The most important thing I got out of it was how a woman's personality influenced and enhanced her style. These women looked great but also gave off a sense of being comfortable in their clothes and/or bodies. Basically, they knew they looked good.

Another interesting thing I found throughout most of the profiles was that women throughout time have thought they had body flaws and that a great way to disguise the bad and highlight the good was with fashion. Crawford’s shoulders were thought too broad for her slim hips so the shoulders of her gowns and jackets were exaggerated, making them a design choice instead of a body flaw. Claudette Colbert thought her waist was too thick and her neck too short so she insisted designer Travis Banton draw the eye up and away from her perceived flaws by showing as much of her bosom as possible in 1934's pre-code Cleopatra.

Also, who can resist 200 photographs like this one?
Joan Crawford at home

Interesting revelations:

• Young Joan Crawford (see above) was such a natural beauty with her freckles unhidden and only 5’4” tall. Unfortunately, the most common image is of a later Crawford with stark drawn-on brows and a harsh uncompromising mouth.
• Claudette Colbert essentially wore the same hairstyle, a short bob with bangs, her entire life.

Greta Garbo and Kate Hepburn, looking fabulous!


Norma Shearer in one of my favorite outfits from the book

There is also an earlier companion book, The Power of Style: The Women Who Defined the Art of Living Well by Ms. Tapert and Diana Edkins from 1994. It explores the personal styles of fourteen women such as Slim Keith, Babe Paley, Millicent Rogers, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. I can not wait to check that one out too. Lately, I can't seem to stop reading books on vintage fashion and sewing lately.

I highly recommend this book. Enjoy.

S.E.W.: The Book Returns

Last December, I wrote a post praising the book S.E.W.: Sew Everything Workshop by Diana Rupp of Make Workshop without having bought the book. I now own the book and I love it even more. This book covers everything I said it did then and does it sooo well.



From setting up the ideal work space, figuring out the anatomy of your machine, working with the fabric grain, identifying different types of fabrics to how to read patterns, this book tackles it all. The last few chapters of the book even cover hand sewing and how to make darning repairs.



Wendy Mullins has been touted as a god-send for Sew U, her beginner sewing book, because it is easy to read and sets you up with the basics. I believe, then that this book is the perfect next step. While Wendy sets you up with a basic shirt, skirt, and pants pattern combination to start from, S.E.W. gives you a variety packet of 10 patterns to use as a jumping-off point for your imagination. Clothing projects in this book move from lingerie to party dress and accessories to go-with, to a warm Mod-inspired cape (see below) to cover it all.



This should be your next reference book to buy, use, and keep.

More book photos at my Flickr page.