Organic Cotton Plus Culottes - Butterick 6178

Pattern: Butterick 6178 (2016)

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted cropped culottes with waistband, side pockets, and back zipper.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes (14-16-18-20-22) I ultimately chose to make a size 18 according to my measurements.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, this pattern is so simple, three pieces, four darts, and a zipper.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the simplicity of the flat front and the sleekness of the pant style, which was needed for the length to work.

Fabric Used: 100% organic cotton 7 oz. twill from Organic Cotton Plus* in Nutmeg 160180T-NUT, Coats & Clark 7" zipper in Cloister Brown 56B, and Gutermann 100% polyester thread in Clove #590.

[This fabric was sent to me by Organic Cotton Plus and has a great feel. I pre-washed it in warm water and while it grew softer it still had a durability and thickness much like denim and would probably make a great pair of jeans or a jacket. However, the fabric arrived off grain and needed correction. More about this fabric and my solution can be found here on my blog.]

Before and After

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Even though I had checked the finished garment measurements, still wary of the fit, I cut this out in size 20. I basted the pants together on the inside seams and pinned the side seams. I tried them on and of course realized I should have just cut my size! Well, better to be safe than sorry. Hmmmm....

I started the habit of thread tracing all of my darts after marking with chalk for accuracy. It's much easier to stitch over thread than a blurry chalk outline. It also works if I find myself putting aside a project for a day or two (or a week!)

Next came the centered zipper and pocket insertion. There was a point when the instructions say to press all of the pocket seam allowances the same way where I found that just changing the direction of one seam allowed the whole pocket to lay flatter.

There was a part of the instructions I changed. When stitching the crotch seam, they want you to stitch the seam at 5/8" and then again 1/4" away. Because of where this seam sits I felt that was too far away, as the seam wouldn't lay right, so I went back and stitched at 7/8", notched into the seam allowance and then removed the 1/4" stitching.

I easily attached the waistband but unfortunately, there were diagonal lines radiating from the crotch towards the lower hip AND lines from the middle of the waistband out to the mid-hip. I was positively confused about a solution. But I'm not the only one, because I noticed it in photos from other reviews of the pattern.

Trying to figure out the problem, I tried altering the darts by deepening and lengthening the ones in front which eliminated most of the fullness in that area. I extended (by a smaller amount) the back darts too.

The only thing left to do was determine the best possible length. I chose to copy the look from the inspiration photo below and go about four inches above my ankles, which I found looked good with both flats and 2" - 3" heels.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I will probably try another similar pattern in my stash. Unfortunately, the front crotch of this pant is too shallow and I think that was what made the pattern set funny on my body.



Conclusion: This project was fast tracked up my sewing queue when Organic Cotton Plus contacted me for a review; however, I've wanted to make this pattern since seeing Lisa's gorgeous version (above) on the Tessutti blog.

*Though the fabric was provided free in exchange for a review, all opinions are my own. Full review of the fabric can be found here.

Organic Cotton Plus Fabric Review

Checking my email a few months ago, I was ecstatic to see a message from Organic Cotton Plus offering me fabric from their website. They deal in 100% certified organic fabric that meet Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS). Their range of products include different types of silk, jute, linen, and wool in knit and woven forms. In just their silk category, they offer hemp, "peace" silk, and a hemp/silk blend. They also carry in their online shop "green" laundry detergents, natural horn buttons, and both fiber reactive and vegetable dyes.

After looking through their site I was eager to choose my items; however, I had no idea how hard the decision would be. I found myself taking two days just running through fabric type, quantity, and color scenarios; if I bought two yards of their French terry, could I still afford anything else? However, I could afford four yards of their organic twill but then get just one color or split it between colors? I was also tempted with their peace silk but whatever I made with it would probably only be worn once because of my so-NOT-silk-friendly lifestyle.

Swatches!

I decided to end the indecision by thinking of the patterns already in my stash and what projects I had been wanting to make that were already on my project list. I then compared that list with which fabrics Organic Cotton Plus had to offer that would work with them.

Nutmeg brown and olive green

In the end, I choose two lengths of their 60" (actually 62"!) twill in two colors that are always hard for me to find; a strong green and a rich brown. I was so excited to get my hands on this fabric and in addition, by publishing my review, I would join the likes of Cut Cut Sew, Lladybird, Male Pattern Boldness, and True Bias in sampling Organic Cotton Plus fabrics.

How it arrived.

Unfortunately, both two yard lengths I originally received were off-grain. I contacted the company and they graciously sent another cut length. While better than the first, the new length was also stretched out of grain. Even though I knew in theory how to fix the problem, I took this as a research opportunity and looked through my 20-plus sewing books and found everything I could about straightening fabric grain. Out of all my books, the most detailed and complete instruction was found in my Vogue Sewing Book (c. 1982) on page 132. This was the only one that suggested soaking the fabric to relax the fibers.

Dampened with the selvages pinned together.

I first straightened the crosswise ends of the fabric by cutting into the selvage and pulling a thread across the width. After unsuccessfully trying to stretch the fabric into shape while dry, I decided to block the fabric. I soaked it in warm water, gave it another good stretch on the bias, and pinned the selvages together.

Still wet and coaxed into place.

Then similar to what is done with knitted projects, I laid the fabric flat, stretched, and pressed it into position to dry for a few hours. Before it was completely dry, I steam ironed it while continuing to coax it into place. This corrected the grain.

Ta Da, dried and corrected fabric!

While time-consuming, I am still happy with this fabric, the quality and durability is excellent. It also sews and presses well. However, I strongly feel that the company should do a review their manufacturing process, because somewhere along the way something is pulling their fabric off grain. In all, I received three separate 2-yard lengths from them and all were off-grain. Since I started this blog in 2006, I have been in the habit of checking the grain of every woven fabric before I work with them but many sewists (especially new ones) may not do this and that is were the harm would be.

Rated on a scale of 1 to 5:

Organic Cotton Plus = 4, with suggested due diligence.

Here's a sneak peek of my finished project made with their nutmeg brown 60" twill (#16018OT-NUT), the review is coming up next!

Amazing Gifts From Allie J.

What's the best thing you could imagine getting in the mail when you are at home sick? How about a surprise package of patterns, notions, and fabric? Perfect, right?

Well, that's what I received last week!

Last month, I was selected for a mystery giveaway from Allie J. who was celebrating her blog reaching 250 followers. I wasn't expecting it and definitely wasn't expecting how much or how great the contents would be. Thank you, Allie!

Allie's sewing blog highlights her love of vintage influenced clothing which she constructs from her own collection of vintage patterns. If you want a treat, definitely go and check out her lovely handmade wedding dress, especially if you like or love the color pink!

Simplicity 7087 & Butterick 4799

After a morning of doctor appointments and more errands than you would ever want to do on a cold rainy day when you can hardly breathe without a hot mug of tea under your nose, this package was the perfect thing! Opening up the package, I was shocked to pull out five patterns (two vintage and the rest modern) with one so current it's from the spring Lisette release and was the exact same one I was contemplating buying myself. Not because I didn't want it but because I was feeling guilty about my pattern stash and...well, now I can own it guilt-free!

Simplicity 1168, Butterick 6182, Butterick 5249

 

Included with those were also a pack of Microtex machine needles, a needle threader, and a pack of general use sewing needles (I love hand sewing!).

However, the pièce de résistance is the large remnant of black scuba fabric that she packed in the box. I have been hearing about the stuff but without a planned project I probably would not have bought myself. It is hopefully enough to make a cool pieced black pencil skirt (Simplicity 1283, a pattern I had just bought for another fabric already in my stash) which will be so warm and cozy with my over-the-knee leather boots from last winter.

Thank you again, Allie J.!

Good & Plenty Twist Top - Butterick 5429

Pattern: Butterick 5429 (2009)

Pattern Description: Sleeveless close-fitting top with front neckline twist, dropped shoulders, and stitched hem. (Note the nipped-in waist in the pattern illustration at left.)

Pattern Sizing: It came in (8-10-12-14) and I made a size 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Not really, as it was not as fitted as the illustration would have you believe.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was intrigued by the twist detail at the center front. I liked the idea of a very simple top but with interest.

 

Fabric Used: A lovely knit gifted from Kyle that reminds me of Good-&-Plenty candies. I think it is a nylon and spandex blend meant for swimsuits. However, it was fine for this and I used it before to make this dress.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: At first, I made no alterations. There was a construction change because of the fabric I used. Machine stitching was difficult, my machine kept skipping stitches. I ended up going over every stitching line twice, I couldn't even risk doing a zig-zag stitch. Because of this difficulty, all raw edges (neckline, sleeves and hem) were hand stitched in narrow 5/8 " hems.

If I altered the side seams it would look like the sketch.

After wearing this top for a while I realized that it was just too big and shapeless. The illustrations on the pattern were very deceptive, this top came out an almost perfect square (as seen here). There was no waist shaping like in the drawings so I decided to scoop in the side seams for more shape.

Would you sew it again? I think so, but in a smaller size and in a woven or a sturdy knit. I will still hand sew the neckline edges because it's neater and they do show at some points during the day. Also on knits I would be afraid of those edges stretching and causing ripples.

Would you recommend it to others? Yes, with those easy alterations mentioned above. This could be quite interesting with a different color, a sheer fabric, or a similar but different sized print in the upper bodice/sleeve area only.

Conclusion: An easy but interesting top.

One-Hour Dress - SewStylish Spring 2010

a.k.a. the Good & Plenty shift dress.

Since I had this lovely fabric* from Kyle I decided to use it for the one-hour dress project available here on the Craft Stylish site. It is also available in the Spring 2010 issue of Sew Stylish.

Ha, this "one-hour" dress took me a week to sew and then a couple more weeks to post! But that's just me because this was incredibly easy to make.

Day 1: Made the pattern according to the directions

Day 2: Cut out the dress

Day 3: Sewed the neck and side seams

Day 4 & 5: This was unexpected but my sewing machine refused to sew this material, even with a ball point needle for medium-weight knits. As it turns out, it didn't want a specialty needle at all so I ended up hand stitching the neckline and arm holes because I didn't want them to stretch and ruffle.

Before sewing the pleats down I wore the dress to work with a makeshift belt just to see what I thought. After that successful run, I choose a more ordered arrangement for my shoulder pleats than the more free-formed approach in the magazine.

Close-ups of the finished shoulder pleats:

The final dress!

What I changed or "how to make your dress better":

I only added 10 extra inches to the draped side of the pattern instead of the 12" they suggested because I wanted my dress to be slimmer. That is a measurement you might want to play with also.

The pattern has you use 7" for the armhole measurement. I suggest you measure your own upper arm and add 1/2" to that measurement. Mine are bordering on too tight.Measure the width of your own shoulders, calculate the width of your desired neckline and substitute those numbers for theirs. Otherwise, the neck may be too small to go over your head or too wide to stay on your shoulders.



In this picture before the shoulder pleats, it reminded me of the Lanvin dress that Tilda Swinton** wore when she won her 2008 Oscar.

* And yes, Kyle I think it IS swimwear fabric, but I don't really care. It feels great (silky smooth) and I know it can survive a rainstorm!
** By the way, Swinton once responded on Charlie Rose that if someone offered her the part of David Bowie in a movie about him, she'd love to play the part...so, someone please get on that quick!

Thank you, Kyle!!

Last week, Kyle of Vacuuming the Lawn emailed me to see if I would be interested in some fabric from her stash. I'm not dumb, so I said yes.

However, I was still surprised when I received the package on Monday. The fabric was gorgeous and there was a lot of it. About two and a quarter yards. (I used the old nose to wrist measuring system as soon as I pulled it from the package.) How very generous!

with hot pink shirt for color comparison

Kyle, I can't believe you couldn't find a use for this, but thank you for passing it along! It's a lovely Lycra blend in a dusky pink and cream dots on a chocolate brown ground (Hmm, makes me think of Good & Plenty candies...). I have a few knit patterns, including this blog favorite, that I might try from my pattern stash. Who knows when this will happen (you know what I mean if you've been reading this blog for awhile) but I do hope soon. Even though I'm not a big fan of pink, I will definitely wear this!

Now, enjoy a few pictures of me ridiculously play-acting as a Paris fitting model:



Are not blog friendships great?!