Friday, October 21, 2011

Vogue 7714: Eat My Dust-er! (1)

First muslin for Vogue 7714

Last night, I basted in the sleeves of my Vogue 7714 muslin. I am making view C, the 3/4 long collarless duster jacket. This pattern was a mystery to me as there are only two reviews for it on form 2005-06. Even though one of them mentioned that the coat was oversized and the pattern description said "very loose-fitting" I was still astounded by the sizing.

I had purchased the pattern months ago while in denial about my true measurements. Therefore, I bought the pattern in the (8-10-12) size for $6, even though my lower body measurements correspond exactly with those of a size 16 with a 30" waist and 40" hips.

This jacket will be worn over layers, maybe a light sweater so it needs some room but not too much that it would look baggy over a t-shirt.

I opened up the tissue to read the finished garment measurements. Luckily, this pattern gives all three. Imagine my surprise when the listed final garment measurement on the size 8 hips was 6.5 inches more than my hip measurement of 40" and 14 ! inches over the 32.5" hip measurement for that size. However, not wanting to risk fate I cut out a straight size 10, resulting in 7.5 inches of ease at the hips, and 14" at the waist. How do you think it looks compared to the pattern photo?

It seems to have the same amount of ease and the fit looks good, right? Seriously, the ease on this pattern in insane. For all of the sizes, the design ease is 10.5" at bust, 20" at waist, and 14" at hips! Does that seem excessive to you?

Another shot of the front muslin

In these pictures I have not attached the facing so the front bodice doesn't lay as it should. It seems to overlap too much at the top, very unlike the pattern photo. Don't know how to address that issue.

The big problem I see is the back of the jacket. There is a lot of extra fabric between and under the shoulders and too much ease in the rear sleeve cap. I need to find a way to decrease the size in all three areas, around the back shoulder line and underneath the armscye. All without negatively altering the good fit in the front.

Here are some options:

  • Cut the back out one size smaller in a size 8. Lately, I've been suspecting that my back is narrower than my front enough that I need to make allowances. Reduce cap ease on back sleeve.

  • Cut upper back in size 8 and taper down to a 10 at the hips. Reduce cap ease on back sleeve.

  • Pinch in the center back by 1/2" inch from neck to hem so the shoulder seam line is moved towards neck and corresponds with the end of my shoulder. Reduce cap ease on back sleeve.

  • Can anyone think of anything else? Thanks!

    No comments: