12 In Twelve - Handmade Wardrobe Update

It's the eighth month of the year so I should be more than half way done, right?

Well, it depends. If you want to count the original garments I meant to finish, then no.

I had been going on a good run there for a while. Unfortunately, I kept getting sidetracked. Something didn't fit right so instead of being stuck I just moved on to another project and...

I ended up substituting different garments as they caught my eye and like an idiot I have been sewing them all at the same time. One day, a little this, next day, a little of that. Which means it has taken me an awful long time to just finish something. But I have!

As of now, I have completed:

Pattern Runway Pattern Mash-up Gray Skirt

Built By Wendy Corduroy Skirt from Sew U

McCall's 4632 Boxy Blouse

Burdastyle Irmchen's Twisted Drape Top

Grainline Studio Scout Woven Tee #31002

Grainline Studio Tiny Pocket Tank #31001

New Look 6939 Shift Dress in Alexander Henry print

Updates!

Vogue 9772 Swiss Dot Summer Tops

Vogue 9745 Flat Front Pants - November

In the next week I expect to finish one more project, catching me up in this eighth month of the year. After I have completed this entire group of twelve, I will try to add the duster coat, finish the Pastille alterations, the black/white wool dress, and I think that will be it for the year. So what if I didn't do exactly what I set out to do? I have done a lot.

In addition, I also completed two "practically worn every day" necklaces and have nearly finished my first quilt.

Coming up: the posted reviews w/ pictures!

The Fabrics - a reminder

Fitting The Pastille!

Pastille Fridays, part 2

Fitting Issues with my Pastille



Doesn't look that bad from the front, right? That is if you didn't know my waist was smaller than this, you wouldn't be suspicious. However, the dress is too big at the waist and directly above and below despite my measurements exactly matching the pattern measurements. Just goes to show you, it really is proportion and how your body is distributed, not the size numbers or the weight.

However, check out the back.* Despite how pretty close it fits in front that is some truly excessive fabric pooling back here. I had no idea about that until I went ahead and basted in the zipper to check. Thankfully, I do have more of this fabric if I need to cut two new back pieces (and there is still some in the stores too) However, I really don't want to redo that neckline and facing. I did a great job the first time.



I can't say this is a sway back problem because it fits great over the rear. This is more a back length problem, I think the bodice is too long for my body. The zipper is only hand-basted so I can remove that and maybe bring in the width by at least a 1/2" on both sides, deepen the darts and shorten the back bodice.

Side view. Ugh.

Also, can you see how the waistline dips down towards the back? It's even more obvious when my arms are down. At that side seam, my actual waist is at least one inch above that line. Though it might have stretched while it was on the hanger. I like the way the skirt fits so I only want to alter the back bodice pieces. Any suggestions?

These two pictures show where my actual waist is located compared to the waistline of the dress, a more than one inch difference. This is where comprehensive body measurements or a muslin could have really helped me out.*



That is why I started to look up information on taking your correct body measurements that can be compared to pattern pieces before a muslin is cut out.* I will be writing about that in another post that will include all the online and print resources that I have found.

*I promise I will never NOT make a muslin again!

I Forgot... I Have Always Loved Dusters (2)

Yes, I forgot that I have two similar long jackets (dusters) in my closets! Albeit two that were destined to Goodwill because I never wear them anymore. However, I still adore the brown, 100% silk Ann Taylor jacket, it was part of a fabulous suit. Because it is a size 2(!), I eventually outgrew the pants. The blue one is a perma-crinkle 100% linen jacket by Mandolorama (?) in Euro size 42 that I bought in New Orleans. So, I suppose I was missing this type of item in my closet and that's why this coat became so important to me. Hmmm.

So lucky me, I can compare the fit of each jacket to my muslin in order to pinpoint what it is I have to change to get the final shape I want. Note: These two jackets don't really fit anymore because of my hips, so they don't look good buttoned, one of the reasons the new jacket will not have any closures.



Front view of the muslin looks good. Compared to the other two I think it may have a better fit in the shoulders, while the others hang over the shoulder points a bit.





Sleeve cap, I have no idea which one looks the best. I know the muslin has too much ease because I had to gather a bit, but in regard to the shape of the others, I have no clue.


It looks like the brown might fit better? What do you think?

 

Back span, with arms raised, I don't like how the muslin shoulders stick up but they do look better than the blue one. The blue also has these horizontal wrinkles along the back I didn't know about. I was surprised to see them because the jacket didn't feel tight at all when I raised my arms.



The brown one, again, looks the best. It is of course a much more fluid fabric than the crisp linen and a cotton comforter cover. Most importantly, you can see that both finished coats have some shaping at the waist while the green muslin falls straight down from shoulder to hip.

 

Rear view is the big problem. What I don't like: how the muslin bags out above the rear, is too wide everywhere above the hips, and has those vertical lines alongside the armscye. You can see that the shaping at the waist of both the blue and brown flatters the rear end view. Both of those jackets also have a center back seam which might be my salvation and a better solution than a narrow back adjustment*.





Side view, again too much fabric in the same exact spot: around the waist and above the rear. The shaping on the other two give a slight bit of shape to this view too.



My next step is to compare the measurements from the finished coats to the corresponding points on my muslin and see where I stand.

* Though I did find excellent instructions for one on the web from Threads, various blogs, and this great pattern alteration series from the Texas A&M AgraLife extension program.

Vogue 7714: Eat My Dust-er! (1)

First muslin for Vogue 7714

Last night, I basted in the sleeves of my Vogue 7714 muslin. I am making view C, the 3/4 long collarless duster jacket. This pattern was a mystery to me as there are only two reviews for it on Patternreview.com form 2005-06. Even though one of them mentioned that the coat was oversized and the pattern description said "very loose-fitting" I was still astounded by the sizing.

I had purchased the pattern months ago while in denial about my true measurements. Therefore, I bought the pattern in the (8-10-12) size for $6, even though my lower body measurements correspond exactly with those of a size 16 with a 30" waist and 40" hips.

This jacket will be worn over layers, maybe a light sweater so it needs some room but not too much that it would look baggy over a t-shirt.

I opened up the tissue to read the finished garment measurements. Luckily, this pattern gives all three. Imagine my surprise when the listed final garment measurement on the size 8 hips was 6.5 inches more than my hip measurement of 40" and 14 ! inches over the 32.5" hip measurement for that size. However, not wanting to risk fate I cut out a straight size 10, resulting in 7.5 inches of ease at the hips, and 14" at the waist. How do you think it looks compared to the pattern photo?



It seems to have the same amount of ease and the fit looks good, right? Seriously, the ease on this pattern in insane. For all of the sizes, the design ease is 10.5" at bust, 20" at waist, and 14" at hips! Does that seem excessive to you?

Another shot of the front muslin

In these pictures I have not attached the facing so the front bodice doesn't lay as it should. It seems to overlap too much at the top, very unlike the pattern photo. Don't know how to address that issue.



The big problem I see is the back of the jacket. There is a lot of extra fabric between and under the shoulders and too much ease in the rear sleeve cap. I need to find a way to decrease the size in all three areas, around the back shoulder line and underneath the armscye. All without negatively altering the good fit in the front.

Here are some options:

Cut the back out one size smaller in a size 8. Lately, I've been suspecting that my back is narrower than my front enough that I need to make allowances. Reduce cap ease on back sleeve.

Cut upper back in size 8 and taper down to a 10 at the hips. Reduce cap ease on back sleeve.

Pinch in the center back by 1/2" inch from neck to hem so the shoulder seam line is moved towards neck and corresponds with the end of my shoulder. Reduce cap ease on back sleeve.

Can anyone think of anything else? Thanks!

What's Going On In My Sewing Room

I have three of my Fall Palette Challenge pieces completed!


1) Simplicity 2406, 2) Vogue 2883, 3) Butterick 5429
Unfortunately, gray days have now arrived in Richmond so all the pictures I took of Butterick 5429 are too grainy to publish. I am really happy with how this top came out. I made a major alteration to the pattern that improved the overall fit.

I am still working on item 4, which has multiple issues. Too long bodice, too big in the waist, and too much excess fabric in the upper back. Maybe it's time for Fit For Real People to help me out? I'll have to check the libraries in town for a copy.

So, as a break from that I am starting on a muslin for item 5, the Vogue 7714 long coat. Finally, right? I have read the few reviews that exist on Pattern Review and am ready to go. It's really a easy sew but the fit is tantamount before cutting into that moleskin.

I have updated my Fall Palette Challenge board. I've moved that Swiss dot top to spring/summer 2012 and included more pants for winter. I have purchased Colette Pattern's new Clover pant pattern and thanks to a $1.99 sale on stretch poplin at Fabric Mart (and four sales from my Etsy shop!) I now have enough fabric for two pairs in dark chocolate and claret, a rich red color.


Click image to see larger
So three out of the nine are done. Not bad at all.

2011 Fall Palette Challenge (with a change)

Yes, I am participating in the Colette Patterns Fall Palette Challenge. My plan; however, is for all of 2011 and includes projects for both summer and fall.

Summer: Simplicity 2406, Vogue 2883, Vogue 1922, Vogue 9772
(last three, all OOPs)
Fall: Butterick 5429, Vogue 7714, Colette Pastille*, McCall's 5042 and McCall's 5686 (Vogue & McCall's all OOP)
My goal, of course, is not to make everything here within the eight-week time period (puh-lese!) but to complete at least four of these garments during the Challenge. I have three of them near completion, I just need to...well, finish them!



Here is my convenient year-round, all-season palette that I've been working from for the last few years. It's from a Crate and Barrel catalog spread for linen drapes. I found that this line-up represented all of the colors that I liked to wear and are also flattering. The only colors missing are an orange-red/brick shade, pale grey, and a strong, rich purple.

Three of the cold weather pieces are from last year's sewing plan. I have worked on muslins for two of the dresses and the Pastille is stitched up but I ended up having some fitting issues so it is not completely finished. The new fall project is another Butterick 5429 with long sleeves in this beautiful matte jersey print from Jo-Anns. I can't believe I never noticed it before as it incorporates so many of the colors that I like.

Tribal Rayon Jersey from Jo-Ann's

* I was a tester for the Pastille dress from Colette Patterns.

Githurdunn!*

I finished another project! Even though it was not on either my fall 2010 OR summer 2011 sewing plans! However, I had to make it, it was so easy.

I made another Sorbetto. This time I used a yellow gingham pillowcase from the Ruth Harvey fabric collection*. Positioning the pattern so that the open end of the pillowcase would become the prefinished hems made the project even simpler. I trimmed it using commercial bias binding (in Lemon Ice). However, I reversed the Colette instructions and sewed the right side of the binding to the right side of the fabric, resulting in a clean finish on the front and then hand sewed the binding to the seam allowance on the inside. I also eliminated the final topstitching step.

Before the end of the week I should have another project done too! The pair of heathered brown shorts in the summer plan. Hopefully, the weather; which is damp and rainy lately, will perk up so I can wear them before it's too cold.

Vogue 9772

I also purchased this pattern, Vogue 9772, from their great 1990's VogueElements line (I own five others and love them all) to use for the Swiss dot I already bought. Perhaps the V-neck version in the batiste and the top layer in the Swiss dot or vice-versa.

* I realize I haven't talked about this fabric I received. I only discussed the patterns and the sewing machine my friend M was selling. So, look for a post on the fabric when I can get some decent photographs of the stash.

Quote: Larry the Cable Guy

Who Wears Dressy-Shorts?

Vogue 2883 Style 1902

Ok, I am waffling on the shorts pattern I was going to use. I have the fabric but I can't make the first cut. I want shorts that are full enough to also look like a skirt and I'm just not sure if the fabric or the pattern will get me where I want to be. Above are the sketches of the patterns that I currently have in contention.

Below are some inspiration pics I've picked up on the net.


Rachel Comey "Settler" shorts, ASOS shorts

The "Settler" shorts are nearly identical to the Vogue pattern illustration!



The kind of look I want!

Oh, and please don't refer to these as "skorts"! Skorts were deceptive by having a panel in front disguising the fact that they were really just shorts. I've lived through those when I was a kid and these will NOT be those!

Images: Totokaelo.com, shoppenelopes.com

The Too Small Dilemma

Well, last weekend I really wanted to start on some projects. I was going to get the easy ones out of the way, the ones where I didn't need to alter the pattern in any way. Well....

New Look 6939

For the longest time I knew I was going to make New Look 6939 in view C out of my Alexander Henry Mocca Chocolate fabric. Unfortunately, my fabric is only large enough for the indecent version of the dress, remember from last week? In order to reach the new modest length I prefer, I will have to add a panel at the bottom of this one too.

So, a piece of the same fabric but not trying to line up the pattern or instead use a contrasting solid strip?

What do you think?
Simplicity 2406 Vogue 1922 (OOP)

In the meantime, I'm going to measure and alter the patterns for the View C dress of Simplicity 2406 (I'm one size larger than the pattern) and the pants of Vogue 1922 where the pattern, bought a decade ago, is now two sizes too small. I have to add an inch to each seam allowance for the pants to fit.

The Coordinated Summer Wardrobe

Over the last few months I did a little bit of fabric shopping. As I've written before, most of my pants no longer fit and I don't own any shorts. So I felt some new fabric was warranted. I used my state tax refund of $50 to buy most of this so I don't feel guilty. I don't, I swear!

Here are the goodies and the projects that these are destined for:

Brown heather linen-like, Daphne batiste (for linings) in papyrus, Prairie Rose Swiss dot, a stone gray polynosic woven, and an Alexander Henry Mocca print in chocolate. What I love about these fabrics is that unconsciously I ended up with mostly items that go together, with the designer print standing alone. They are destined for a top, two dresses, shorts, and pants.

The Swiss dot is destined for a sweet top, perhaps a 2nd Sorbetto? I was only able to get 1 1/2 yards of this, so it is pretty precious. The brown heather woven is the same fabric used on this skirt. I chose it this time to make a pair of shorts, either classic style Vogue 2532 view B, skirt-like Style 1902, or Vogue 2883, a combination of the two.

Luckily, I bought enough of the brown to also make a Simplicity 2406, view C dress, the gray will be pants from Vogue 1922, and the coveted AH print will either be another New Look 6939 or the Vogue 2883, view B dress. I first need to compare the patterns to find the least sack-like one.

Mosaic Multi Dots matte jersey

Of course, there was one fabric I did not buy because it wasn't on sale. I love this Mosaic matte jersey at Jo-Ann. I've been wanting this fabric for over a year now. Next time I have money and it's on sale, IF it is still there, it will be mine!