Friday, November 04, 2011

Fitting The Pastille!

Pastille Fridays, part 2

Fitting Issues with my Pastille

Doesn't look that bad from the front, right? That is if you didn't know my waist was smaller than this, you wouldn't be suspicious. However, the dress is too big at the waist and directly above and below despite my measurements exactly matching the pattern measurements. Just goes to show you, it really is proportion and how your body is distributed, not the size numbers or the weight.

However, check out the back.* Despite how pretty close it fits in front that is some truly excessive fabric pooling back here. I had no idea about that until I went ahead and basted in the zipper to check. Thankfully, I do have more of this fabric if I need to cut two new back pieces (and there is still some in the stores too) However, I really don't want to redo that neckline and facing. I did a great job the first time.

I can't say this is a sway back problem because it fits great over the rear. This is more a back length problem, I think the bodice is too long for my body. The zipper is only hand-basted so I can remove that and maybe bring in the width by at least a 1/2" on both sides, deepen the darts and shorten the back bodice.

Side view. Ugh.

Also, can you see how the waistline dips down towards the back? It's even more obvious when my arms are down. At that side seam, my actual waist is at least one inch above that line. Though it might have stretched while it was on the hanger. I like the way the skirt fits so I only want to alter the back bodice pieces. Any suggestions?

These two pictures show where my actual waist is located compared to the waistline of the dress, a more than one inch difference. This is where comprehensive body measurements or a muslin could have really helped me out.*

That is why I started to look up information on taking your correct body measurements that can be compared to pattern pieces before a muslin is cut out.* I will be writing about that in another post that will include all the online and print resources that I have found.

*I promise I will never NOT make a muslin again!


knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

Why don't you just shorten the front and back bodice by an 1" or whatever the difference is from your own? I always tissue fit and ALWAYS, ALWAYS I pay attention to where the waist is on the pattern. I usually need to add to the front but not the back so I just make a wedge in the pattern. Sometimes it takes some fiddling with the pattern if the piece is cut on the fold, but I just make it work!

patsijean said...

The dress does give your figure the look of a longer waist, but you do not want pooling. I suggest asking "fit for a queen" if your dress could be altered without taking your facing apart. She does alterations as a business and might be able to give her some suggestions. I really like her blog.

Unknown said...

Don't you just hate it when you don't do something you know you should do...and it doesn't work-lol

I would remove the skirt, fit the bodice, thread basting your new waistline. Then modify the skirt in circumference to match the new waist and baste the skirt on so that you can check the skirt for correct hang.

I think you will be able to do this without touching your beautiful neckline:)

Kyle said...

The neckline is gorgeous!
As for the back, it looks like you could rip out the seam that's holding together the top and bottom, and try taking out an inch or so from the top. You can try it with the binder clips or pins first to double check before doing more sewing.

Thanks for your comment on my blog--i didn't see it til recently because it went to spam! But I took pix of the the mary janes and they're on my blog now if you want to see!

Kyle said...

Also, I like to select sizing based on the finished garment measurement. Antoinette taught me that and it helps.

Sigrid said...

Wow the front looks gorgeous! And I'm not sure the waistine has to be at your natural waist as long as you like the lines. I agree with Lynn. I would unpick the bodice back from the skirt, undo the darts remove excess fabric, redo darts and baste it back together.

I think grey looks so elegant, but it doesn't really look so good on me. This is going to fabulous when you finish.

lsaspacey said...

Thanks everybody! I just wish I had the time to make the changes. Hopefully soon!

Kyle: Colette doesn't do finished garment measurements but I did match the pattern size measurements.

SEWN said...

I've learned the hard way that muslining is the way to go. I hope you can find time to alter it. The fabric looks worth the time.

Laura said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Laura said...

They do have finished measurements, in the book:

However, as I remember, the individual patterns don't have them. In any case, finished measurements show 4 inches of ease in the back, 1in for waist, and either 1/2 or 1 1/2 for the bust.

I think you might have the same issue with the sleeve cap that I described when replying to your comment on my blog. Perhaps fixing that will fix some of the rest.

mrsmole said...

Yes, you can salvage this dress. Since the only real issue is the back bodice, those 2 sections can be removed, remove the zipper totally (sorry) and re-cut the 2 backs a shorter length keeping the waist measurement at the waist the same. If by shortening from the lower edge you have to narrow your back darts go ahead. You may find that you do a sway back alteration on many of these vintage dresses only because your rib cage tapers in a lot at the waist (wouldn't we all love this?) and it is easy on paper to take the tuck and cut out the fabric. If you need any shortening at the side seams (usually 1/4 or so) the tuck just narrows at that point any way. Your zipper insertion will curve into you instead of away and even though the center back edge will curve and not be straight say if you take in 1 inch or more, so be it, it follows you perfectly. For now, pin out a horizontal tuck from center to side seams and see what it does.
Mrs Mole