Sunday, March 30, 2014

Please Help Me With New Look 6145

I am loving the fit of the muslin* in these two pics, the neckline is flattering and not too wide. The shoulder looks good with just enough ease.

As you can see below, the back seam of the top is completely sewn up, however, when I raise my arms suddenly all this fabric appears. I know this is probably an armscye issue but which one and how to fix it?  Looking through all  twenty of my sewing books, none mentioned this issue specifically.

So, is this normal, is this ok? It has been a while since I made a straight non-gathered bodice in a woven fabric so I'm not sure. I can add some shoulder darts but is there more that I should do?

I think the armscye is too tight and needs to be lowered, what do you think? 
Please help me, I really want to move on to the dress. Any ideas?

*By the way, while I like this fit, in order for this top to become my inspiration shift dress I will need it to fit looser anyway.


Jne4sl said...

I think the armscye is too low on you. I ran across this in my own sewing last fall and this is the description that helped me:
from Natalie Bray's Dress Fitting

The test is pin out some ease at the shoulders and see if arm movement improves. Specifically the crease that's showing up on the sleeve. I didn't notice the creasing on the back, but it may be the same thing, basically moving the arm is moving the whole thing up and causing creasing. Hope this helps.

KimV said...

Hi, I just came across your (awesome!) blog while looking for photos of the Grainline Moss Skirt.

I think the issue is that the sleeve is a bit snug across the biceps, which keeps your arm from moving in the sleeve. As a result, your arm moves the sleeve, which then pulls the entire bodice out of place. Ideally, your arm will be able to rotate freely in the sleeve and armscye without moving the bodice much. I would not lower the armscye unless it feels tight; that actually reduces your range of motion.

Hope this helps! I think you are well on your way to a great fit.

KimV said...

I forgot to mention that an easy way to check to see if the sleeve is the problem is to just remove the sleeves and see if you still have the same problem...if so, you know the sleeve is the culprit!